José María Velasco: A View of Mexico @ the National Gallery

José María Velasco (1840 to 1912) was Mexico’s most famous nineteenth century painter. He was a member of the Mexican Academy of Arts and a professor at the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura. In the 1870s and ’80s he had works exhibited in the United States and France, where he won awards and medals, being awarded the Legion of Honour by the French. In other words he was celebrated at home and internationally recognised as the premier Mexican artist of his time. He is most famous for his big landscapes, especially his numerous depictions of The Valley of Mexico.

The Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Santa Isabel by José María Velasco (1875) Museo Nacional de Arte, INBAL, Mexico City © Reproducción autorizada por el Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura . Photo: Francisco Kochen

This smallish but beautifully curated exhibition in the Sunley Rooms at the National Gallery centres around two enormous depictions of the Valley of Mexico but also brings together 28 paintings of all shapes and sizes, along with ten or so sketches and drawings, to give a broader account of Velasco’s career and achievement.

Why a big exhibition of Velasco now? To mark the 200th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between Britain and the newly independent Mexico in 1825. The show is also the first ever dedicated to a historical Latin American artist to be held at the National Gallery.

Academic training

Velasco studied at the Academy of San Carlos under the professor of landscape, the Italian painter Eugenio Landesio. For most of his painting career, from the 1860s to the 1890s, he adhered to the traditional style of picturesque landscape. The curators claim that in the 1890s he was influenced by the Impressionists and then developed a late style in the 1900s, but none of this affects his most famous works which are from much earlier.

Flora…

Velasco wasn’t just a painter but a polymath with a deep interest in an impressive range of subjects. He was a founding member of the Sociedad Mexicana de Historia Natural and took a serious approach to Mexican plant life. In 1869 Velasco devised ‘Flora of the Valley of Mexico’, a short-lived publication for which he made precise illustrations. So, the curators tell us, all of his paintings pay attention to the shapes and leaves and colours of native plant.

To be honest, I didn’t really buy this. For a while I wrote a blog about English wildflowers and on my weekly walks in the country paid microscopic attention to shape and size, the colours and leaves and flowers of a wide variety of wild flower. For a while I worked at Kew Gardens. Among its other treasures, Kew has a gallery devoted to the botanical paintings of Marianne North. Nowhere in Velasco’s studies of plants or broader landscapes did I see anything with this much attention or detail.

The lack of botanical detail is made abundantly clear in what, we are told, is one of his most famous and totemic paintings, of a giant cactus.

Cardón, State of Oaxaca by José María Velasco (1887) Museo Nacional de Arte, INBAL, Mexico City. Image: Museo Nacional de Arte, Mexico City © Reproduction authorised by the Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura

Even from a distance this image has a cartoonish simplicity, which isn’t helped by the cartoon figure in a sombrero standing in the shade. But when you go close up you see that, although the vertical ribs of the cactus spines are carefully defined, especially by the way the light falls on some of them, close up there there’s a limit to the detail. You don’t, for example, see any hint of the spikes which are a key feature of cacti.

This demonstrates a general rule I found which is that it doesn’t do to look too closely at Velasco’s paintings. Something similar is true of his depiction of lichen on trees and rocks. It’s impressive that he wants to depict them but when you get in close to the painting you discover they’ve been rendered with surprisingly broad, rough brushstrokes, not at all the kind of detailed academic realism you might have expected.

… and fauna

In 1879 Velasco published a monograph on the axolotl, a type of gilled amphibian found only in the lakes of the Valley of Mexico. Given the curators’ mention of this, and his naturalist interests generally, it’s striking how few animals there are in any of the se 28 paintings. A donkey in one, two little dogs frolicking in the Valley of Mexico painting at the top of this review, and an eagle in his most famous Valley of Mexico work (below) – and that’s about it.

Archaeology

Velasco had a profound interest in Mexico’s archaeological heritage and painted many landscapes featuring remains of the area’s original inhabitants. This culminated in him being appointed as a draughtsman for the Mexican Museo Nacional in 1880. A particularly striking subject which he painted many times were the ancient pyramids and city of Teotihuacán, just 50 kilometres north-east of Mexico City. The show includes three or four studies of this type, the biggest of which is:

The Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon by José María Velasco (1878) © Colección Pérez Simón, Mexico. Photo: Oliver Santana

Once again, if you lean into the painting the detail becomes muzzier. Velasco’s paintings are best seen at a distance. In fact, coming home and reviewing the images on my laptop, I realised they epitomise the phenomenon I noticed reviewing one of the Impressionist shows a few years ago which is that they look much better as reproductions. The valley reproductions are as big as a wall and leaning in you can see the looseness of the brushwork. Reduced to an image 6 inches by 4, it looks absolutely immaculate.

Geology

Velasco by the advances in geology throughout the nineteenth century. His love of geology is clear to see at every level of the paintings, from the snow-capped mountains in the distance to the hills and ridges which break up his large landscapes, all the way through to outsized rocks and boulders in the foreground. The most famous of these and, I think, my favourite work in the exhibition, is of a particularly striking rock or boulder.

Rocks by José María Velasco (1894) Museo Nacional de Arte, INBAL, Mexico City © Reproducción autorizada por el Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura

The curators rightly point out that this is framed almost like the portrait of a person. The shades of colouring on the rock and the balance between the patch of light on the grass in the foreground and the grey and white clouds in the sky… I see the appeal of the valley pictures but on this visit, in this exhibition, seeing them in the flesh, I think this rocks picture is his most successful composition,

Also, I suddenly realised it reminded me of Sir Edwin Landseer, famous for his depictions of the rugged  Highlands of Scotland and his signature work, Monarch of the Glen. A comparison between Landseer and Velasco immediately highlights the fanatical attention to detail of the Englishman – look at the grasses at the stag’s feet, look at the highlights on its nose and antlers, look at the detail of the fur. In many of the paintings here Velasco never aspired to the same level of finish. Look at the sombrero figure standing under his giant cactus, the smudgy lichen on an old tree or rocks. A loose impression was enough for Velasco most of the time. In this respect, too, the rocks stand out for the beautiful detailing of the grass and its silver seedheads.

Landscape

Back to landscape and the centrepiece and obvious masterwork in the show, ‘View of the Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Santa Isabel’.

View of the Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Santa Isabel by José María Velasco (1877) Museo Nacional de Arte, INBAL, Mexico City © Reproducción autorizada por el Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura. Francisco Kochen

This is not only a huge and awesome painting but in a sense draws together all the elements I’ve been analysing. Note the dazzling realism of the rock ridge in the foreground and the trees and scrub growing out of it. There’s a tremendous drama of light and shadow, behind the mound on the left and deep shadow side of the ridge on the right. The more you look for this interplay of light the more you see, like the light reflecting from some of the pads on the cactus tree on the lower left.

Not immediately obvious, there’s also a element of the built environment in the image: in the road which curves round the dark hill and then turns into the long straight avenue across the shallow lake to Mexico City, an almost imperceptible line of tiny buildings the other side of what looks like a lake.

Sooner or later you notice that right down the front, light against the darkest part of the black shadow like a diamond on black felt, there’s a vivid depiction of an eagle flying across the view, creating a sense of space and spontaneity. It’s an extremely professional, technically adept, perfectly composed image.

History and symbolism

In fact the cactus on the left and the eagle in the middle have a symbolic importance. Apparently they reference the founding story of Mexico City, according to Mexica – or Aztec – history. Both feature prominently on Mexico’s flag today.

See the two snow-capped mountains on the left of the horizon? These are the extinct volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztacchihuatl which were characters in a legend about an Aztec princess (Iztacchihuatl or ‘white woman’) and a brave warrior (Popocatepetl or ‘smoking mountain’).

But that’s not all. At the bottom of the smaller of the two hills which the road curves around, is a church commemorating the site where the Virgin of Guadalupe first appeared to a native man, Juan Diego, in 1531. The view has multiple historical resonances: ancient Aztec, early Spanish colonial, and contemporary 1870s.

So ‘View of the Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Santa Isabel’ is an extremely accomplished example of Velasco’s skill at incorporating all these historical and symbolic references, as well as architectural structures, into a breath-taking landscape. If you weren’t told about it, you’d never guess that this large, tranquil image contains so many references to Mexico’s multi-layered history.

In fact the painting was made specially for the 1878 International Exhibition in Paris where it became known as ‘Mexico 1877’.

All this explains why Velasco was by the later nineteenth century not just Mexico’s premier artist but the creator of images whose complex historical and patriotic symbolism came to represent the young nation to itself and in international expositions.

Comparisons

The show is dominated by the two enormous vistas of the Valley of Mexico, the one featured at the top of this review, from 1875, and the one above, from 1877. It’s an obvious temptation to compare them. In a nutshell I prefer the later one (above), predominantly because it is so light. There is a lot of big blue sky and this is very relaxing to look at. The way the 1875 has much darker shadows around the rocky ridges on the lower right makes the entire image feel darker and a bit ominous. For pure visual pleasure, the lovely airy sunlit version wins.

But the darker 1875 version is spoiled, for me, by the presence of the figures in the foreground, what look like a mother holding a baby, a boy carrying a bundle of sticks, and two frolicking dogs.

Detail of The Valley of Mexico from the Hill of Santa Isabel by José María Velasco (1875) Museo Nacional de Arte, INBAL, Mexico City

They are, frankly, cheesy. They detract from the grandeur of the scene and turn it into postcard kitsch. It’s interesting to consider that the taste of the time (1870s) required and valued such silly figures. (For  a sympathetic explanation of the tradition of incorporating small human figures into vast landscapes which stems from German Romanticism, see the article on Smarthistory.)

It’s precisely the absence of figures, of any human traces at all, which makes the painting of the rocks my favourite image. It is uncompromised by human or even animal presence and so the rocky outcrop dominates the image with a kind of tough purity.

The exhibition contains nearly 30 other images of various subjects and levels of interest (including his most famous late work, of a comet poised dramatically over the Valley of Mexico), but the two big valley paintings and the rocky outcrop are, in my opinion, the only ones really worth paying to see.

Diego

Lastly, after all this highly conventional Victorian Salon art, it is a very great surprise indeed when the curators tell us that one of Velasco’s students at the Academy of San Carlos was none other than Diego Rivera, who has a claim to be the joint most famous twentieth century Mexican artist (probably eclipsed these days by his one-time wife Frida Kahlo). The curators tell us that, despite being associated with the revolutionary avant-garde and then going onto create his famous communist murals, Rivera in fact respected Velasco’s work. He said of it:

“Velasco’s work is greater than a mural painting or a pyramid, it is a poem of colour with mountains as its stanzas.”

Three years after Velasco’s death in 1912, Rivera painted the astonishingly modernist ‘Zapatista landscape’ which, despite its avant-garde angularity and almost complete abstraction, in fact references Velasco’s Valley of Mexico paintings, notably the ridges and mountains, and even the snow-capped volcanoes, on the horizon.

Zapatista Landscape by Diego Rivera (1915)

What a vast, an almost incomprehensible gulf, separates the airy realism of Velasco’s landscapes and Rivera’s wild overthrow of every axiom of the academic tradition in his modernist classic.


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Books

Exhibition

Mornings in Mexico by D.H. Lawrence (1927)

Mañana es otro dia. Tomorrow is another day. And even the next five minutes are far enough away, in Mexico, on a Sunday afternoon.

As explained in my reviews of ‘The Plumed Serpent’ and of Anthony Burgess’s life of D.H. Lawrence, Lawrence and his wife visited Mexico on three occasions, staying in Mexico City and then at several locations, once on Lake Chapara, once outside Oaxaca. Out of these stays came his long religious and mystical novel ‘The Plumed Serpent’. In Burgess’s view, Lawrence poured all his visionary preaching and religious mysticism into that book and was, in a sense, purged, when he came to write this set of travel sketches and observations.

It’s a short book, just over 80 pages in the Penguin paperback edition. And a very calm book, devoid of the religious mythomania of the novel. At the end if revives some of his hobby horses about native religion, but for the most part it is modest and beautifully observed, and with an unusual sense of humour.

1. Corasmin and the Parrots

A description of the parrots and their ability to mimic the whistling of Lawrence’s mozo or servant, Rosalino, and also his little fat, curly white dog named Corasmin.

All day he does nothing but walk resignedly out of the sun, when the sun gets too hot, and out of the shade, when the shade gets too cool. And bite ineffectually in the region of his fleas.

Vivid and precise descriptions of parrot and dog lead into some Lawrentian preaching:

Myself, I don’t believe in evolution, like a long string hooked on to a First Cause, and being slowly twisted in unbroken continuity through the ages. I prefer to believe in what the Aztecs called Suns: that is, Worlds successively created and destroyed. The sun itself convulses, and the worlds go out like so many candles when somebody coughs in the middle of them. Then subtly, mysteriously, the sun convulses again, and a new set of worlds begins to flicker alight.

Which leads him into a fantasia about the origins of different animals in the different Aztec eras of the world which has a slight whiff of the Kipling of the Just So Stories, with the good-humoured tone of a children’s story.

Up reared the elephant, and shook the mud off his back. The birds watched him in sheer stupefaction. What? What in heaven’s name is this wingless, beakless old perambulator?

It’s fun.

The Aztecs say there have been four Suns and ours is the fifth. The first Sun, a tiger, or a jaguar, a night-spotted monster of rage, rose out of nowhere and swallowed it, with all its huge, mercifully forgotten insects along with it. The second Sun blew up in a great wind: that was when the big lizards must have collapsed. The third Sun burst in water, and drowned all the animals that were considered unnecessary, together with the first attempts at animal men.

Out of the floods rose our own Sun, and little naked man. ‘Hello!’ said the old elephant. ‘What’s that noise?’ And he pricked his ears, listening to a new voice on the face of the earth. The sound of man, and words for the first time. Terrible, unheard-of sound.

Then another thought that some animals, such as the monkey, come from another dimension, a fourth dimension. Looking at a monkey is looking into another world different from ours, with no connection with ours.

The Aztecs said this world, our Sun, would blow up from inside, in earthquakes. Then what will come, in the other dimension, when we are superseded?

What indeed? Lawrence’s ‘ideas’ are really just rhetorical forms of deep perceptions. They don’t call for a rational but an imaginative response, to enter into the strange alternative worlds he can conjure up in just a sentence. Some people find it twaddle. I find it extraordinarily liberating.

2. Walk to Huayapa

Sundays. He is reluctant to go out and see people ‘enjoying themselves’ but his better half (Frieda) insists. Thank God (he thinks) they have no car and so have to saddle up a knackered old horse, or just walk.

Most towns in Mexico, saving the capital, end in themselves, at once. As if they had been lowered from heaven in a napkin, and deposited, rather foreign, upon the wild plain.

Rosalino is a mountain boy, an Indian from a village two days’ walk away. But he has been two years in the little city, and has learnt his modicum of Spanish.

Nowhere more than in Mexico does human life become isolated, external to its surroundings, and cut off tinily from the environment. Even as you come across the plain to a big city like Guadalajara, and see the twin towers of the cathedral peering around in loneliness like two lost birds side by side on a moor, lifting their white heads to look around in the wilderness, your heart gives a clutch, feeling the pathos, the isolated tininess of human effort. As for building a church with one tower only, it is unthinkable. There must be two towers, to keep each other company in this wilderness world.

Lawrence’s wife, Frieda, referred to throughout as the Señora, is wearing a plain hat of bluey-green woven grass, and a dress of white cotton with black squares on it. This is so unlike the standard woman’s wear of black that it freaks out all the Indians they encounter on the walk. They decide to head for a village they can barely see across the barren plain, Huayapa, and trek for a while before suddenly coming across a stream in a crack.

This again is characteristic of these parts of America. Water keeps out of sight. Even the biggest rivers, even the tiny brooks. You look across a plain on which the light sinks down, and you think: Dry! Dry! Absolutely dry! You travel along, and suddenly come to a crack in the earth, and a little stream is running in a little walled-in valley bed, where is a half-yard of green turf, and bushes, the palo-blanco with leaves, and with big white flowers like pure white, crumpled cambric. Or you may come to a river a thousand feet below, sheer below you.

Lawrence is hyper-aware of the gap between him, a white gringo, and the poor peons they meet and the native mozo they employ. When he laughs:

He also gives a sudden broken yelp of laughter. – They laugh as if it were against their will, as if it hurt them, giving themselves away.

And on the bleakness of little Mexican villages:

If there were no churches to mark a point in these villages, there would be nowhere at all to make for. The sense of nowhere is intense, between the dumb and repellent living fence of cactus. But the Spaniards, in the midst of these black, mud-brick huts, have inevitably reared the white twin-towered magnificence of a big and lonely, hopeless church; and where there is a church there will be a plaza. And a plaza is a zócalo, a hub. Even though the wheel does not go round, a hub is still a hub.

Poetic phrases:

The dark faces of the little men under the big hats look round at us suspiciously, like dark gaps in the atmosphere.

Music. In the dusty village is:

A little boy beating a kettledrum sideways, and a big man playing a little reedy wooden whistle, rapidly, endlessly, disguising the tune of La Cucuracha. They won’t play a tune unless they can render it almost unrecognizable.

They wander round the dry village, from one shabby little cave of a shop to another, asking for fruit, which can’t be had for love or money. A pathetic little ‘fiesta’ is going on. Finally an old woman gives them some unripe oranges and some sweet limes. They toil uphill to where the water source coming into the village is clean and make a very basic picnic. Surprisingly, they have brought a bottle of lemonade all this way.

Some of the people they come across in a branch of the stream, lower down, are bathing naked and unashamed.

Hastily retreating, I thought again what beautiful, suave, rich skins these people have; a sort of richness of the flesh. It goes, perhaps, with the complete absence of what we call ‘spirit’. (p.31)

3. The Mozo

Lawrence wrote an entire novel praising the revival of the Aztec gods so it’s a big surprise when chapter 3 opens with:

The Aztec gods and goddesses are, as far as we have known anything about them, an unlovely and unlovable lot. In their myths there is no grace or charm, no poetry. Only this perpetual grudge, grudge, grudging, one god grudging another, the gods grudging men their existence, and men grudging the animals. The goddess of love is a goddess of dirt and prostitution, a dirt-eater, a horror, without a touch of tenderness. If the god wants to make love to her, she has to sprawl down in front of him, blatant and accessible. And then, after all, when she conceives and brings forth, what is it she produces? What is the infant-god she tenderly bears?… It is a stone knife… It is a razor-edged knife of blackish-green flint, the knife of all knives, the veritable Paraclete of knives. It is the sacrificial knife with which the priest makes a gash in his victim’s breast, before he tears out the heart, to hold it smoking to the sun… And the Sun, the Sun behind the sun, is supposed to suck the smoking heart greedily with insatiable appetite. (p.32)

And then, rather outrageously, he goes on to make a wild generalisation about the Mexican people:

And to this day, most of the Mexican Indian women seem to bring forth stone knives. Look at them, these sons of incomprehensible mothers, with their black eyes like flints, and their stiff little bodies as taut and as keen as knives of obsidian. Take care they don’t rip you up.

The Mexican regards white people as miracle working monkeys. Mexican people have only the vaguest sense of time: in the morning, in the afternoon, in the evening. Same with place: they have near or far. Distance is based on whether the route is familiar or unfamiliar. Money is imprecise. The Mexican is not greedy, he doesn’t really like money, he prefers to spend it all so as not to have any to worry about. Trying to strip the present moment of all entanglements, with the ruthlessness of the obsidian knife.

Compare and contrast with the white monkey with his ultra-precision about all these things, his obsession with work and pay, his seizure of the land and its resources and working the natives hard. And in this context comes the Lawrence’s servant, Rosalino.

Lawrence describes his daily routine which is pretty much watering the little garden and sweeping up the patio. Then he curls up and sleeps on the bench in the zaguán or gateway. All these houses are like little fortresses with barred windows. He is illiterate and slowly learning to read and write Spanish which is as distant from his culture as Hindustani would be to an English farm boy.

The day after the outing to Huyada, Rosalino has a reaction and sinks into sullen hatred of his white monkey masters. He says he must go back to his hill village but next day changes his mind, but next day changes it back again. Meanwhile, he accompanies the white monkeys to the local market and bargains hard for everything for them.

In the most recent revolution, just a year earlier, recruiters came to Rosalino’s hill village and the elder, the alcalde, said Rosalino should go with them, but he refused and was beaten unconscious with their rifle butts.

Lawrence tells the story of another mozo from the same village who was thrown in prison and then taken away and hanged just because a cousin of his was on the other side in some revolution. Amazingly, he survived and made it back to his home village.

4. Market Day

The landscape:

The dry turf of the valley-bed gleams like soft skin, sunlit and pinkish ochre, spreading wide between the mountains that seem to emit their own darkness, a dark-blue vapour translucent, sombring them from the humped crests downwards. The many-pleated, noiseless mountains of Mexico.

Science and philosophy:

Strange that we should think in straight lines, when there are none, and talk of straight courses, when every course, sooner or later, is seen to be making the sweep round, swooping upon the centre. When space is curved, and the cosmos is sphere within sphere, and the way from any point to any other point is round the bend of the inevitable, that turns as the tips of the broad wings of the hawk turn upwards, leaning upon the air like the invisible half of the ellipse. If I have a way to go, it will be round the swoop of a bend impinging centripetal towards the centre. The straight course is hacked out in wounds, against the will of the world.

‘Space is curved’ being presumably a reference to Einstein. Applied to the Mexicans coming to market, it is wonderfully transporting.

There is no goal, and no abiding-place, and nothing is fixed, not even the cathedral towers. The cathedral towers are slowly leaning, seeking the curve of return. As the natives curved in a strong swirl, towards the vortex of the market. Then on a strong swerve of repulsion, curved out and away again, into space.

The long description of the market emphasises that the Indians love, above everything else, the buzz of human contact. They’re not so bothered whether they sell anything, just to interact. And this explains the need to barter, for everything. It is not only expected, it is the point.

Nothing but the touch, the spark of contact. That, no more. That, which is most elusive, still the only treasure. Come, and gone, and yet the clue itself.

5. Indians and Entertainment

The Indian way of consciousness is different from and fatal to our way of consciousness. Our way of consciousness is different from and fatal to the Indian. The two ways, the two streams are never to be united. They are not even to be reconciled. There is no bridge, no canal of connection.

Even the experts, even the anthropologists of Indians sentimentalise them by making their culture and experience seem assimilable to our own. But they aren’t.

Western songs or plays are individualised and take us out of ourselves towards individual stories. The commonest Indian art is singing to the accompaniment of drums. It has little or no individual meaning, but draws the Indian listener into a generic activity.

The real Indian song is non-individual, and without melody. Strange, clapping, crowing, gurgling sounds, in an unseizable subtle rhythm, the rhythm of the heart in her throes… To the ordinary white ear, the Indian’s singing is a rather disagreeable howling of dogs to a tom-tom. But if it rouses no other sensation, it rouses a touch of fear amid hostility.

Lawrence thinks he knows what the many different types of dance signify.

It is the dance of the naked blood-being, defending his own isolation in the rhythm of the universe… The creature of the isolated, circulating blood-stream dancing in the peril of his own isolation, in the overweening of his own singleness. The glory in power of the man of single existence. The peril of the man whose heart is suspended, like a single red star, in a great and complex universe, following its own lone course round the invisible sun of our own being, amid the strange wandering array of other hearts.

Lawrence tells us that for the Indian there is no separate God. The Greeks had gods, the Jews had their one God, all these systems make a stark demarcation between the mortal and the immortal. This allows for the beginning of drama, for the sacred dances and rituals are performed for the gods. From this eventually follow theatre, drama and all other types of literature.

None of this exists for the Indian. There is no God or gods. There is just the continual unfurling of creation and everything is part of it, every bird and tree and bear and person is equally part of it.

There is no God looking on. The only god there is, is involved all the time in the dramatic wonder and inconsistency of creation. God is immersed, as it were, in creation, not to be separated or distinguished. There can be no Ideal God.

And so:

There is no division between actor and audience. It is all one.

To repeat – in the western tradition:

In the long course of evolution, we ourselves become the gods of our own drama. The spectacle is offered to us. And we sit aloft, enthroned in the Mind, dominated by some one exclusive idea, and we judge the show. There is absolutely none of this in the Indian dance. There is no God. There is no Onlooker. There is no Mind. There is no dominant idea. And finally, there is no judgement: absolutely no judgement. The Indian is completely embedded in the wonder of his own drama. It is a drama that has no beginning and no end, it is all-inclusive. It can’t be judged, because there is nothing outside it, to judge it.

6. Dance of the Sprouting Corn

A long description of the Spring Corn Dance which is performed for three days after Easter. Frankly, I’d had more than enough about Indian dancing in the previous chapter and this felt otiose.

7. The Hopi Snake Dance

Surprisingly, the book at this point leaves Mexico, because the Hopi people live in Arizona. Lawrence describes being part of a convoy of black motor cars full of tourists which wended its way across the grey desert to Hotevilla, in the summer of 1924, to watch the Hopi perform their dance. Three thousand people turn up to see it and have to be formally warned to respect the Indians’ religion and values. So it’s a tourist attraction. And not much of one, in Lawrence’s view: the Indians dance round with live poisonous snakes in their mouths. That’s it. it’s like a shabby circus act.

Once again he tells us that for the Indians there is no dichotomy between creator and created, between God and his Creation: instead everything is alive and does its thing. The gods didn’t create; the gods, like everything else, like rain and thunder and trees and bears, are the result of the deeper forces at work in the world.

The fact this is repeating with a few variations, what he told us in the previous two chapters makes me wonder whether this was a standalone essay cut and pasted into the book, as does the fact that it’s not in Mexico at all.

As you might expect, Lawrence contrasts the primitive pre-civilised way the Hopi (and many other primitive peoples) seek to make sense of or unite themselves with the cosmos, with the triumph of the white monkeys of the West, with all our machines, with our cars and showers, we have turned the universe into a great machine and so lost our souls. And so we drive in our thousands across the desert to try and reconnect. Or, as Lawrence thinks more likely, to take it in the vulgar spirit of a cheap vaudeville act.

For three successive days the crowd assembles in the village plaza. The first two afternoons the rituals only last 15 minutes or so carried out by thick dark semi-naked men, ten or so snake priests, the same number of antelope priests. It’s only on the third day that the actual snake ritual is carried out and this is long and dramatic and worth reading about because Lawrence isn’t conjuring up long pages of interpretation (as in the previous chapter), instead he is a reporter, he reports very precisely what happened, what he saw, and it is weird and fascinating.

The men, half-naked and painted suddenly emerge, each carrying a live rattlesnake sideways in their mouths and go round a circuit, perform a small ritual circuit three times before carefully laying the snakes on the ground. After a moment to recover the snakes slither quickly to wards the crowd of white tourists and only at the last minute are caught up and displayed by more dancers. After this has happened quite a few time, all the snakes are wrapped round the arms of a couple of the youngest men who head off over the steep edge of the mesa, disappearing down a track and then into the rocks, there to deposit the snakes in front of the Snake Shrine and let them depart, go back to the sun or whatever power came before the sun bearing the tribe’s thanks and please:

To carry the human spirit, the human breath, the human prayer, the human gratitude, the human command which had been breathed upon them in the mouths of the priests… to carry this back, into the vaster, dimmer, inchoate regions where the monsters of rain and wind alternated in beneficence and wrath. (p.86)

At the end of the whole event, Lawrence contrasts the dignity of the Navajo Indians who have ridden on horseback over from their neighbouring reservation with the hundreds of white monkeys who start up their quick efficient soulless machines (their cars) to head back to ‘civilisation’. Each people follows its own course, who is to say which is ‘right’? Lawrence ends by lamenting that western ways are destroying the old Indian vision. Western ways offer quick, easy and very filling gratifications, now, right now. Hence obesity and drugs. The slow patience of the Indians is a vanishing art.

8. A Little Moonshine with Lemon

Unexpectedly, the final chapter describes Lawrence in Italy! He is Italy in some little village at the end of the day devoted to St Catherine and he’s just drunk a toast in her honour and… he sits remembering his ranch back in America, outside Taos. Anthony Burgess’s biography explains how, in early 1925, Lawrence fell ill in Mexico, recovered in a good hotel in Mexico City attended by a proper doctor and returned, after a struggle with the border authorities, back to the ranch in Taos. However, he was only given a 6-month visa and when it expired in September 1925, reluctantly left the ranch and took ship across the Atlantic. From England he travelled quickly down to Italy and it was here that he wrote this brief (4 pages) coda to the book, in which he looks back from well-fed, well-provisioned, civilised Italy to America.

But not to Mexico. Bizarrely, given the book’s misleading title, Lawrence spends four pages waxing nostalgic about his ranch just outside Taos, which was solidly inside the USA. It’s a glaring example of Lawrence’s slapdash attitude to what he wrote during the 1920s, knocking off essays, stories, poems and novels with little care about their inconsistencies and lack of finish, relying heavily on himself and Frieda as his main characters, writing intensely in the moment and splendidly indifferent to the logic of titles or art or form.

Thoughts

1. Good though some of the early descriptions are in this little book, none of them are as transcendently brilliant as the many wonderful descriptions of Mexican landscape and culture in ‘The Plumed Serpent’. There, the best descriptions or phrases arise en passant, in the process of describing something bigger. Kate Leslie’s journeys by train or across the lake to Ramón’s hacienda or sitting by the Sayula quay are ostensibly, consciously, focused on that particular part of the plot, describe what’s going on in her mind, explain what issues are at stake. Which makes the wonderful descriptions of what she sees out the train window, or across the lake, or taking place on the quay, all the more like an interlude or oasis, a bonus, a gift. Gives those descriptive passages, and many others like them, tremendous imaginative force.

The scene where Kate disturbs a snake sunning itself on a boulder which quick as a flash slithers into its little burrow under the rock and, when Kate bends down, she can see it coiled up and regarding her with hostile eyes – that’s a little hand grenade in the novel. Nothing in this book has that kind of dramatic power. It’s too detached, almost clinical.

2. And it starts to go off when it embarks on the long boring descriptions of the native dances. Lawrence proclaims it impossible for ‘white monkeys’ like us to understand the true meaning of these rituals, not even the expert anthropologists can understand them – and then proceeds to spend pages explaining how he, alone, understands them. Thus they are not only boring but are based on the preposterous premise of Lawrence’s special, privileged insight. Mind you, he does a very good job of taking you into the Indian mindset. Which, as the same time, he tells you is completely inaccessible. Contradiction? Paradox? Lawrence snaps his fingers – who cares!

I felt a bit worn down by the book’s trajectory, the way it evolves from pure description into a sermon in defence of the Indians’ completely different worldview, dropping strategic criticism of our own western, soulless dominance. Lawrence can never stop himself preaching. We have gained the whole world and lost our soul, as Jesus predicted 2,000 years ago.

To us, now, in 2025, this message is a bit boring because it is axiomatic, it is a cliché of modern discourse that native peoples (in America, in Australia) retain a wisdom and a connection with the natural world which we industrialised people have lost. Wordsworth, Ruskin, Morris said it throughout the nineteenth century and a whole generation of hippies said it from the 1960s and ’70s onwards.

But maybe in 1926, as part of the wave of disillusionment after the Great War, this view had more impact. Certainly the later chapters presumably had value as factual reportage of events which were still relatively hard to witness; and also as a sustained and sympathetic explanation of a worldview which most westerners probably dismissed as savage and barbaric. Maybe it was a valuable and important book in its day.


Credit

‘Mornings in Mexico’ by D.H. Lawrence was published by Martin Secker in 1927. References are to the 1975 Penguin paperback edition.

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The Plumed Serpent by D.H. Lawrence (1926)

The more it changes, the worse it is.
(Mrs Norris’s considered opinion of Mexican politics)

Ye must be born again. Out of the fight with the octopus of life, the dragon of degenerate or of incomplete existence, one must win this soft bloom of being, that is damaged by a touch.
(The new philosophy of life)

So swiftly one’s moods changes!
(Key note of the ever-changing moods of Lawrence’s characters)

One cannot have one’s own way, and the way of the gods. It has to be one or the other.
(The stern demands of the leader of the new religion, Don Ramón Carrasco)

Lawrence’s Australian novel, Kangaroo, gives the main protagonist a great deal to say about unorthodox religious beliefs, about overthrowing the dead white religion of Christianity, about escaping the ‘octopus’ of humanity and penetrating deeper, to the nameless dark gods within each of us.

His next major novel, ‘The Plumed Serpent’, is set in Mexico and is in many ways a continuation of this quest, focusing on this idea of the need for a revival of the ‘dark gods’, except that in this book this abstract idea is associated with the old pre-Mexican Aztec gods, led by the snake god Quetzalcoatl whose name translates as the Plumed Serpent, hence the title.

Factual background

In 1922 Lawrence and Frieda arrived at the artists’ community at the pueblo town of Taos, New Mexico, in the south-west USA, at the invitation of its owner Mabel Dodge Luhan, the American socialite, who had read Lawrence’s poetry and thought he’d be a perfect fit. They were found a ranch fifteen or so miles from the town and endured a tough and demanding winter in its very primitive conditions, helped by a couple of Danish artists they sub-let some outhouses to. In spring 1923 they needed a break and Lawrence took Frieda to Mexico. Over the next few years they made three trips in all. Out of them came a long novel, ‘The Plumed Serpent’ (1926), an epic 462 pages in the Penguin edition, and the wonderfully vivid travel book, ‘Mornings in Mexico’ (1927).

Lawrence on Mexico

The first few chapters of the book introduce us to half a dozen characters of which the middle-aged Irish widow, Kate Leslie (née Forrester) emerges as the leading figure. But what comes over most powerfully is (surprisingly) Lawrence’s profoundly negative feelings about Mexico, expressed freely and regularly, and which become a running theme throughout the text..

She had been in many cities of the world, but Mexico had an underlying ugliness, a sort of squalid evil, which made Naples seem debonair in comparison.

‘I do think Mexico City is evil, underneath.’

Mexico, with its great under-drift of squalor and heavy reptile-like evil…

Through the night she could not sleep, but lay listening to the noises of Mexico City, then to the silence and the strange, grisly fear that so often creeps out on to the darkness of a Mexican night. Away inside her, she loathed Mexico City.

There are indeed so many shady people in Mexico that it is taken for granted, if you arrive unannounced and unexpected in the capital, that you are probably under an assumed name, and have some dirty game up your sleeve.

‘And how are you liking Mexico, Mrs Leslie?’
‘Not much,’ said Kate. ‘It strikes me as evil.’

Kate felt that bitter hopelessness that comes over people who know Mexico well. A bitter barren hopelessness.

The party sat in gloomy silence, that sense of doom and despair overcoming them as it seems to overcome all people who talk seriously about Mexico.

‘Whenever a Mexican cries Viva! he ends up with Muera! When he says Viva! he really means ‘Death for Somebody or Other!’ I think of all the Mexican revolutions, and I see a skeleton walking ahead of a great number of people, waving a black banner with ‘Viva la Muerte!’ written in large white letters. ‘Long live Death!’ Not ‘Viva Cristo Rey!’ but ‘Viva Muerte Rey! Vamos! Viva!’
(Don Ramón Carrasco)

‘Disgusting!’ cried the Judge. ‘A great deal is disgusting in this country, as you’ll learn if you stay here long.’

At greater length:

Superficially, Mexico might be all right: with its suburbs of villas, its central fine streets, its thousands of motor-cars, its tennis and its bridge-parties. The sun shone brilliantly every day, and big bright flowers stood out from the trees. It was a holiday. Until you were alone with it. And then the undertone was like the low angry, snarling purring of some jaguar spotted with night. There was a ponderous, down-pressing weight upon the spirit: the great folds of the dragon of the Aztecs, the dragon of the Toltecs winding around one and weighing down the soul. And on the bright sunshine was a dark steam of an angry, impotent blood, and the flowers seemed to have their roots in spilt blood. The spirit of place was cruel, down-dragging, destructive.

Kate could so well understand the Mexican who had said to her: El Grito mexicano es siempre el Grito del Odio – ‘The Mexicano shout is always a shout of hate’. The famous revolutions, as Don Ramón said, began with Viva! but ended always with Muera! Death to this, death to the other, it was all death! death! death! as insistent as the Aztec sacrifices. Something for ever gruesome and macabre.

And many descriptions of the cityscape of Mexico City and of the arid Mexican landscape, which are unremittingly negative and dark and yet, at the same time, wonderfully vivid and expressive:

It [the view over Mexico City from Kate’s hotel room] ought to have been all gay, allegro, allegretto, in that sparkle of bright air and old roof surfaces. But no! There was the dark undertone, the black, serpent-like fatality all the time.

Once, Mexico had had an elaborate ritual of death. Now it has death ragged, squalid, vulgar, without even the passion of its own mystery.

Never had she seen such faces of pure brutish evil, cold and insect-like, as in Mexico City.

And now again already the silence was of vacuity, arrest, and cruelty: the uncanny empty unbearableness of many Mexican mornings. Already she was uneasy, suffering from the malaise which tortures one inwardly in that country of cactuses.

In Mexico, at night, each little distance isolates itself absolutely, like a man in a black cloak turning his back.

He ate with a certain blind, rapid indifference, that also seems to be Mexican. They seem to eat even with a certain hostile reluctance, and have a strange indifference to what or when they eat.

On the right the hill rose precipitous, baked and yellowish, giving back the sun and the intense dryness, and exhaling the faint, dessicated, peculiar smell of Mexico, that smells as if the earth had sweated itself dry.

The terrible, terrible hot emptiness of the Mexican mornings, the weight of black ennui that hung in the air! It made Kate feel as if the bottom had fallen out of her soul.

In Mexico, the wind was a hard draught, the rain was a sluice of water, to be avoided, and the sun hit down on one with hostility, terrific and stunning. Stiff, dry, unreal land, with sunshine beating on it like metal. Or blackness and lightning and crashing violence of rain. No lovely fusion, no communion. No beautiful mingling of sun and mist, no softness in the air, never. Either hard heat or hard chill. Hard, straight lies and zigzags, wounding the breast.

[Of a Mexican market] Yet never a shout, hardly a voice to be heard. None of the animation and the frank wild clamour of a Mediterranean market. Always the heavy friction of the will; always, always, grinding upon the spirit, like the grey-black grind of lava-rock. (p.243)

‘The moonshine in America isn’t the same. It doesn’t make one feel glad as it does in Europe. One feels it would like to hurt one.’

The interior of almost any Mexican church gives the impression of cynical barrenness, cynical meaninglessness, an empty, cynical, mocking shell… The churches outside are impressive. Inside, and it is curious to define it, they are blatant; void of sound and yet with no hush, simple, and yet completely vulgar, barren, sterile. More barren than a bank or a schoolroom or an empty concert-hall, less mysterious than any of these.

Curious, the old gentle ceremonials of Europe, how trashy they seem in Mexico, just a cheap sort of charade.

The day of Corpus Christi came, with high mass and the church full to the doors with kneeling peons, from dawn till noon. Then a feeble little procession of children within the church, because the law forbids religious processions outside. But all, somehow, for nothing. Just so that the people could call it a fiesta, and so have an excuse to be more slack, more sloshy and uncontrolled than ever. The one Mexican desire; to let themselves go in sloppy inertia.

Kate, in these days in Mexico, felt that between the volcanic violence under the earth, and the electric violence of the air above, men walked dark and incalculable, like demons from another planet. (p.331)

Teresa was the youngest. Her two brothers had reverted to the usual wasteful, spendthrift, brutal Mexican way

Chapter 1. Beginnings Of A Bull-fight

Mrs Kate Leslie is Irish, she is going to be 40 next week. All the commentary I’ve read on the book says her feisty character is based on Frieda Lawrence. She is visiting Mexico City with her cousin, Owen Rhys, an American, a poet, also approaching 40, and Villiers, American, 20, young and enthusiastic.

They go to see a bullfight and are appalled at the brutality and squalor, Kate leaves early. She is helped through the crowd to a car by the chivalrous General Viedma aka Don Cipriano, ‘a little officer in uniform, wearing a big, pale-blue cape… short, dark, and had a little black beard like an imperial.’

Chapter 2. Tea-party In Tlacolula

The trio are invited to another tea party by Mrs Norris, widow of an English ambassador of thirty years ago who has a big, ponderous old house out in the village of Tlacolula. She is a historian with a taste for Aztec memorabilia:

Some of the black-grey look of the lava rock, and some of the experience of the Aztec idols, with sharp nose and slightly prominent eyes and an expression of tomb-like mockery, had passed into her face.

Guests include:

  • Don Ramón Carrasco (‘a tall, big, handsome man who gave the effect of bigness. He was middle aged, with a large black moustache and large, rather haughty eyes under straight brows’) – he is going to become the other leading figure in the novel, the chief reviver of the old Aztec religion
  • General Viedma aka Don Cipriano, general of the army of the west, close friend and supporter of Ramón, ‘a dark, grave, small, handsome man’
  • Judge and Mrs Burlap who turn out to be unbearably xenophobic, philistine American mid-westerners
  • young Major Law, American military attaché to Mexico
  • Mr and Mrs Henry, also Americans

Chapter 3. Fortieth Birthday

Kate turns 40 and reviews her life. Two marriages (she left her first husband to run off with Joachim Leslie, who then died), two grown-up children, what to do next? (Mr Leslie wore himself out in the service of nationalist Ireland which had, of course, only just become independent of Britain and endured a bloody civil war.)

She, Owen and Villiers go to dinner at the house of Don Ramón out at Tlalpam. His wife was away in the United States with her two boys so Don Ramón’s aunt plays hostess. Guests include:

  • Doña Isabel, Don Ramón’s aunt
  • Don Ramón again
  • Don Cipriano (General Viedma, ‘a dark, grave, small, handsome man’, who will also become a major character
  • young Garcia
  • a pale young man called Mirabal
  • an elderly man in a black cravat, named Toussaint

This dinner, like the tea-party in Tlacolula, is dominated by ‘political’ conversation about the ongoing confusion of the Mexican Revolution. This started in 1910 and was staggering on when Lawrence first visited in 1923. The guests argue about the upcoming elections, the merits of the candidates, exchange stories about corruption and incompetence, pontificate about how to ‘save’ Mexico. Some support socialism, the overthrow of capitalism, killing the rich and so on; but sceptics say doing that won’t improve the lot of the poor, will only result in a new ruling class.

Toussaint expounds a race-based argument about Mexico’s plight i.e. its difficulties result from the hodge-podge of races which have interbred to create a defeated mongrel race, which is a familiar enough idea. But he then goes on to develop a bonkers theory that a man’s character is set at the moment of coition and points out that most Mexicans in their modern history were the result of imperial conquest and rape. Is it any wonder the race as a whole feels defeated and cowed?

Back at the hotel, Kate reads a newspaper story, reported as a humorous oddity, ‘The Gods of Antiquity Return to Mexico’, about washerwomen by the Lake of Sayula who see a naked man emerge from the water, take one of the pairs of trousers lying drying in the sun, and announce that the old gods are ready to return. She is intrigued.

She wanted to go to Sayula. She wanted to see the big lake where the gods had once lived, and whence they were due to emerge. Amid all the bitterness that Mexico produced in her spirit, there was still a strange beam of wonder and mystery, almost like hope. A strange darkly-iridescent beam of wonder, of magic.

One of the few Mexicans she’s met so far, Don Ramón Carrasco, historian and archaeologist, lives in his hacienda on the same lake near where the incident took place, so you can begin to feel which way the narrative is going to go. And the article is an opportunity for Lawrence to give the reader their first extended bits of information about the Aztec gods.

The name Quetzalcoatl, too, fascinated her. She had read bits about the god. Quetzal is the name of a bird that lives high up in the mists of tropical mountains, and has very beautiful tail-feathers, precious to the Aztecs. Coatl is a serpent. Quetzalcoatl is the Plumed Serpent, so hideous in the fanged, feathered, writhing stone of the National Museum.

The trio visit the university to see the work of political fresco painters. Lawrence gives an interesting critique of the super-famous muralist Diego Rivera, namely that his figures are stock, generic types and lack individuality.

They were interesting: the man knew his craft. But the impulse was the impulse of the artist’s hate. In the many frescoes of the Indians, there was sympathy with the Indian, but always from the ideal, social point of view. Never the spontaneous answer of the blood. These flat Indians were symbols in the great script of modern socialism, they were figures of the pathos of the victims of modern industry and capitalism. That was all they were used for: symbols in the weary script of socialism and anarchy.

The flatness, the purely surface appeal of all politics is, of course, contrasted with ‘the spontaneous answer of the blood’, the revival of the old religion in a new form, which the novel is going to be all about.

Chapter 4. To Stay Or Not To Stay

Owen is going back to the States, should Kate stay on in Mexico? She has a long conversation with Don Ramón about the old gods and true manhood, the first of many.

There is then a very long meditation on the landscape and people and character of Mexico, developing into her wondering whether America, in the largest sense, all of North America, is the great negating continent, hollowing all the people from other continents who come there? Or is Don Ramón right that despite all the efforts of the settlers the old pagan roots are still there waiting to burst free?

Chapter 5. The Lake

Villiers stays on long enough to escort Kate to Lake Sayula. Conversation with Cipriano who supports her idea of going to visit the lake. This is the lake mentioned in the newspaper cutting about the gods. He explains how to get a train there, stay at the hotel at Orilla with a German manager.

She decides to go to Sayula which prompts one of Lawrence’s great railways journeys, from Mexico City to Ixtlahuacan, compare and contrast Aaron’s railway journey across north Italy in ‘Aaron’s Rod’. After sleeping overnight in a Pullman carriage, they arrive at Ixtlahuacan, walk through the town to a river where they find a man to row them up the river and across the lake to the hotel.

There’s an odd moment when they pull over into shallows to avoid the current, and an almost naked local comes over to the boat to tell them they have to pay a tribute to Quetzalcoatl because the lake belongs to him. In fact after a little bickering he backs off and lets them proceed. As the boatman deposits them, he gives Kate a little earthenware pot, crusted by the lake deposit, which represents ‘Ollitta of the old dead gods’.

Chapter 6. The Move Down The Lake

Next day the German hotel manager is free with his opinions about Mexico, specifically how many Mexicans secretly want America to annex their country and run it for them. All this makes Kate sick to death of politics, just wanting to be alone. She takes a motorboat 30 miles across the lake to the town of Sayula. Here she rents a house with a maid, a patio surrounded by exotic plants.

Chapter 7. The Plaza

Splendid description of the main square in Sayula which boils down to Lawrence’s chagrin that this strolling ground for the Edwardian bourgeoisie has been taken over by peons and surly members of the working classes.

The band played no more in Sayula, and the elegancia strolled no more on the inner pavement around the plaza, under the trees… Oh Don Porfirio’s day!… now it was the peons and Indians, in their blankets and white clothes, who filled the benches and monopolised the square.

Carloads of flappers and fifis (‘the male young elegants who are supposed to equate the flappers’) arrive but are soon daunted and cowed by the dark-eyed peons and silent Indians. It is replaced by the drums and flutes of the natives, ‘that timeless, primeval passion of the prehistoric races, with their intense and complicated religious significance, spreading on the air.’

On old men from the troupe of drummers tells a long folk tale about the people neglecting Quetzalcoatl so he was taken away from them and the pale dead god of the white men came from the East. but now Quetzalcoatl is going to return.

The Indian musicians start playing, and singing, and the men and women form themselves into a circle and start dancing, and one of the silent strong Indian men comes to invite Kate to dance. She is terrified but the maid Juana encourages her and she finds herself joining in this primeval celebration of life, the men dancing into their greater manhood, Kate dancing into her greater womanhood.

Chapter 8. Night In The House

Banditry breaks out. People are ambushed or murdered in their houses. Kate is scared and the chapter gives a super-vivid description of her mounting terror one dark night which crystallises when she thinks she sees an arm coming through her window to undo the lock on her door. She screams and the arm disappears. or was it a cat? Then an outburst of thunder scares her even more. Next morning Juana insists one of her two sons, Ezequiel, shall sleep nights in her porch with his rackety old pistol to protect her. In the event, his epic snoring keeps her awake.

Chapter 9. Casa De La Cuentas

Portrait of Kate’s maid, Juana, and her family of two teenage boys, Jesús and Ezequiel, and two girls, Maria and Concha, so packed with racist and gender stereotypes you wouldn’t know where to begin. They all regard Kate as a kind of goddess, love to watch everything she does, including having a bath or eating. Lawrence explains what tortillas are. the time they all sat deliberately in view when Kate had a guest to tea, picking nits out of each other’s hair till Kate angrily told them to go to their shack.

Juana’s love of reckoning up her tiny accounts. Kate’s failed attempts to give the girls lessons in anything. Their indefatigable Indian indifference to anything. All of which branches out into broader observations of the Indian men and women of the town, the courting couples, the way the sexes separated at the lake to wash, their incredible strength when required, but the more usual apathy, indifference. Standing around in the piazzas doing nothing, for hours.

Out of the blue relatives of Juana’s come to stay, a very young married couple, a beautiful ox-eyed girl of about fifteen named Maria del Carmen, and Julio, a straight and fierce young man of twenty-two. Julio was Juana’s cousin. Kate is astonished by their poverty and how Maria puts up with Jose’s bossiness, and how he, for his part, keeps aloof from her. Lawrence generalises that Mexican women seek their men and their men always hold themselves apart.

Chapter 10. Don Ramón And Doña Carlota

From a boat Kate sees the hacienda of Don Ramón on the shore of the lake, much depleted since the revolution and the government confiscated half his land to give to dirt-poor peons. After a few weeks of her stay, Don Ramón asks if he may visit and bring his wife, Doña Carlota, ‘a thin, gentle, wide-eyed woman with a slightly startled expression’, with a Spanish father and French mother, and independently wealthy. She is an intense Catholic and runs a home for foundlings. The two women get on. they invite Kate back to their place in a few days’ time.

To Juana’s horror, Kate insists on walking the four miles along the lakeshore to Don Ramón’s hacienda. She is show through the main gates, onto the terrace with a view, is greeted by Doña Carlota. Somewhere a drum is throbbing. After the usual pleasantries, Doña Carlota breaks down and says her husband is obsessed, obsessed with reviving the old gods. They both agree on the stupid pride and obstinacy of men.

‘Don’t you think, Señora, that the beginning and the end of a man is his vanity? Don’t you think it was just against this danger that Christ came, to teach men a proper humility. To teach them the sin of pride. But that is why they hate Christ so much, and His teaching. First and last, they want their own vanity.’
Kate had often thought so herself. Her own final conclusion about men was that they were the vanity of vanities, nothing but vanity. They must be flattered and made to feel great: Nothing else.
‘And now, my husband wants to go to the other extreme of Jesus. He wants to exalt pride and vanity higher than God. Ah, it is terrible, terrible! And foolish like a little boy! Ah, what is a man but a little boy who needs a nurse and a mother!’ (p.176)

When Don Ramón appears he doesn’t deny it but withdraws almost completely from the two women who are united in their blame of him.

Chapter 11. Lords Of The Day And Night

Don Ramón wakes from his siesta then visits his workers: a metal-worker who is making a small statue of a bird standing in the middle of metal lozenges: women weaving serangs with the same stylised design; a sculptor who is doing a head of Don Ramón in wood, with whom he shares what appears to be a fascist salute. Then he assembles six of his followers on a terrace, they play the drums and sing ancient Indian chants. Long liturgy in which he declares them ‘Lords of the day and night. Sons of the Morning Star, sons of the Evening Star. Men of the Morning and the Evening Star.’

Chapter 12. The First Waters

Don Ramón’s friend Don Cipriano arrives. Don Ramón is reluctant to end the trance and re-enter the everyday world. He runs down to the terrace, still shirtless, and greets the other man. The two women are shocked. Cipriano flirts with Kate. He tells her man has two spirits. He says, if she ever were to marry again, he would like to marry her which throws her off-kilter. The men stroll off together leaving Doña Carlota and Kate to agree how insufferably proud men are, Doña Carlota the devout Catholic, lamenting that her husband is in mortal sin.

Chapter 13. The First Rain

It is the end of the dry season. Everyone’s expecting the first rain. Continuing straight from the scene before, Cipriano tells Ramón he’s spoken to Mexico’s president, Montes, who respects Ramón but says they have different aims, Montes to feed the people’s bodies, Ramón more concerned about their souls. Here’s a flavour of his reasoning:

‘Politics, and all this social religion that Montes has got is like washing the outside of the egg, to make it look clean. But I, myself, I want to get inside the egg, right to the middle, to start it growing into a new bird. Ay! Cipriano! Mexico is like an old, old egg that the bird of Time laid long ago; and she has been sitting on it for centuries, till it looks foul in the nest of the world. But still, Cipriano, it is a good egg. It is not addled. Only the spark of fire has never gone into the middle of it, to start it.—Montes wants to clean the nest and wash the egg. But meanwhile, the egg will go cold and die. The more you save these people from poverty and ignorance, the quicker they will die: like a dirty egg that you take from under the hen-eagle, to wash it. While you wash the egg, it chills and dies. Poor old Montes, all his ideas are American and European. And the old Dove of Europe will never hatch the egg of dark-skinned America.’

And:

‘We’ve got to open the oyster of the cosmos, and get our manhood out of it. Till we’ve got the pearl, we are only gnats on the surface of the ocean,’ said Ramón.

Ramón walks away and has the latest of the many, many, many mystical experiences which are described in vivid and poetic detail but which, I’m afraid, left me cold.

He thrust up and reached down in the invisible dark, convulsed with passion. Till the black waves began to wash over his consciousness, over his mind, waves of darkness broke over his memory, over his being, like an incoming tide, till at last it was full tide, and he trembled, and fell to rest. Invisible in the darkness, he stood soft and relaxed, staring with wide eyes at the dark, and feeling the dark fecundity of the inner tide washing over his heart, over his belly, his mind dissolved away in the greater, dark mind, which is undisturbed by thoughts. (p.205)

Combined with myths and legend, which reminded me of Tolkien. Here is Ramón addressing his small group of followers:

‘I tell you,’ he said, ‘and I tell you truly. At the heart of this earth sleeps a great serpent, in the midst of fire. Those that go down in mines feel the heat and the sweat of him, they feel him move. It is the living fire of the earth, for the earth is alive. The snake of the world is huge, and the rocks are his scales, trees grow between them. I tell you the earth you dig is alive as a snake that sleeps. So vast a serpent you walk on, this lake lies between his folds as a drop of rain in the folds of a sleeping rattlesnake. Yet he none the less lives. The earth is alive.’ (p.209)

They hold a ceremony of sorts mostly consisting of Ramón reciting and chanting, while the wind picks up and the first rain arrives with a storm and sudden explosions of thunder and lightning. Back inside , a conversation where Cipriano tells Kate she has been taught to think American thoughts, instrumental, empty mechanical American thoughts. Part of this is her feminism, her insistence on a woman being strong, independent etc. She mocks that he’d rather she were a Mexican women, kept in ignorance and servitude.

Chapter 14. Home To Sayula

Ramón and Carlota have a bitter argument, she saying he’s throwing himself away, he saying she and her faith and charity works belong to the old, white, external worldview.

It is time for Kate to leave, to be rowed back across the lake to the house she’s renting. She is depressed to be flung back into the endless uneducated Juana and her poor family.

Her anger and frustration are crystallised by the incident of the horrid boys who’ve caught a water fowl, tether it with a string and throw stones at it. She chases them away, and frees the bird which is too stunned to move, slowly drifts back to the shore where it is captured all over again by one of the boys’ older brother, they both mocking Kate’s attempts to change anything in this cruel, brutal country.

Chapter 15. The Written Hymns Of Quetzalcoatl

One night Kate is trying to read on the patio when she becomes aware of a small group down by Juana’s kitchen hole. They are listening to Julio read the hymns of Quetzalcoatl. Basically, the hymns tell of Quetzalcoatl relinquishing his godhead to make way for the Christ and his mother Maria from the East, and telling the people to listen to the priests and learn the new religion, and Quetzalcoatl ascended into heaven. But in the second hymn he hears the voice of Jesus and it is the Christ who passes him, small as a star ascending into heaven, while Quetzalcoatl has awoken and is needed back on earth. At some point it becomes clear that it is Ramón who writes these hymns.

Chapter 16. Cipriano And Kate

On Saturdays vendors come into the town for the market and Lawrence brilliantly describes the boats arriving over the lake packed with produce, the varieties of foodstuff and the atmosphere. Day progresses to night and on the night in question everyone is alarmed when a drunk starts firing off his pistol. While everyone else ducks and hides an army officer strolls over, seizes the pistol from the drunk and slaps him around the face. It is our old friend, Don Cipriano.

He gallantly accompanies Kate back to her house. On the patio he asks her to marry her. He doesn’t browbeat her into it, just says that it is the logical thing, he and Ramón need a woman goddess among the gods they’re reviving. How about August, shall they get married in August? Kate says no but for the first time she sees it as a real possibility. She is, after all, bored to death. It would be something to do. He invites her come to Jamiltepec to see Ramón the following day and she agrees.

Next morning dawns, with rural sights and sounds, peasants driving their cattle to pasture, cars somewhere, a hawker flogs them a scrawny chicken. Juana announces a new hymn of Quetzalcoatl has arrived. Obviously they’re like newsheets or pamphlets and have a fanbase which anticipate each new issue. It is a very long hymn in which Quetzalcoatl supplants Jesus and warns the people he is coming.

Marvellous description of bustling life in the town by the lake. This is the morning she’ll take a motorboat back to Jamiltepec to see Ramón.

Chapter 17. Fourth Hymn And The Bishop

So Kate goes to Ramon’s villa and they have a typically long, intense conversation. What comes over is her deep disgust with people. She hates people.

Underneath it all was the unconquerable dislike, almost disgust of people. More than hate, it was disgust. Whoever it was, wherever it was, however it was, after a little while this disgust overcame her. Her mother, her father, her sisters, her first husband, even her children whom she loved, and Joachim, for whom she had felt such passionate love, even these, being near her, filled her with a certain disgust and repulsion after a little while, and she longed to fling them down the great and final oubliette.

In both Aaron’s Rod and Kangaroo I noticed Lawrence using the Latin phrase Noli me tangere, ‘Don’t touch me’, which comes from the Bible, the New Testament, in the scene after the crucifixion where where the resurrected Jesus meets Mary Magedelen. It also occurs, logically enough, in Lawrence’s own retelling of that scene in his novella ‘The Man Who Died’. My point is that this theme of disgust, of not wanting to be dragged down into other people’s lives, of wishing to escape from the octopus tentacles (a metaphor which occurs in all three novels), is new in the novels of the 1920s. The protagonists of ‘The Rainbow’ and ‘Women in Love’ wanted to reach a psychosexual fulfilment and completion in each other; the protagonists of the 1920s novels want to rise above that, regarding sexual engagement as a kind of entanglement. They want to spurn all external entanglements in order to push deeper inside themselves in quest of the dark gods.

And this is also Ramón’s view:

‘It is no good. One must be able to disentangle oneself from persons, from people. If I go to a rose-bush, to be intimate with it, it is a nasty thing that hurts me. One must disentangle oneself from persons and personalities, and see people as one sees the trees in the landscape. People in some way dominate you. In some way, humanity dominates your consciousness. So you must hate people and humanity, and you want to escape. But there is only one way of escape: to turn beyond them, to the greater life.’ (p.263)

He has become antisex: ‘But women would not have this. They wanted intimacy—and intimacy means disgust.’ Instead:

There is only one thing that a man really wants to do, all his life; and that is, to find his way to his God, his Morning Star, and be alone there. Then afterwards, in the Morning Star, salute his fellow man, and enjoy the woman who has come the long way with him.

Kate, Ramón and Cipriano have an argument. Ramón storms off and writes the fourth hymn, titled ‘What Quetzalcoatl Saw in Mexico.’

The narrator for the first time explains how Ramón takes these hymns to be printed, then hands them in batches of 100 to give to Cipriano to give to his men, who then depart by train and distribute them to all the regions of Mexico. (Remember that Cipriano is a General, the General of the western army.) In every town and city there is a reader who gives public readings and so the message is spread.

But the authorities fight back. The archbishop becomes aware of this preaching and instructs all priests to shut down these public readings. So Ramón arranged for him and Cipriano to have an interview with the Bishop of the West. Ramón quite candidly explains that he is going to remove the statues of Christ from the church at Sayula and replace them with images of Quetzalcoatl. His broader point is that the Catholic Church doesn’t touch the soul of the people. The Catholic Church needs to be truly catholic, in the sense of a church for everyone, and allow worship of the old gods.

The bishop says all this is illegal but is limited in what he can do because, in the years since the Mexican Revolution broke out (1910) the Catholic Church has been increasingly limited and persecuted by the secular authorities. Although he commands a band of elite Catholics known as the Knights of Cortes: rumour has it these have taken a vow to crush the Quetzalcoatl cult and kill Ramón. Cipriano tells him not to be afraid, they are cowards.

Chapter 18. Auto Da Fe

According to Wikipedia:

An auto-da-fé (‘act of faith’) was the ritual of public penance, carried out between the 15th and 19th centuries, of condemned heretics and apostates imposed by the Spanish, Portuguese, or Mexican Inquisition as punishment and enforced by civil authorities. Its most extreme form was death by burning.

Ramón’s sons are ashamed of the reputation he is acquiring. In another long conversation with Kate, Ramón elaborates on his dislike of sex: it is either a man ravishing his woman or the woman ravishing her man and both in the end cause ‘revulsions’. To fulfil his mission, Ramón now has to keep himself aloof from that, he must keep himself ‘within the middle place, where I am still’, in what he calls his ‘Morning Star’.

Lawrence editorialises against the church and explains that each man needs to ‘collect his own soul’:

Oh, if there is one thing men need to learn, but the Mexican Indians especially, it is to collect each man his own soul together deep inside him, and to abide by it. The Church, instead of helping men to this, pushes them more and more into a soft, emotional helplessness, with the unpleasant sensuous gratification of feeling themselves victims, victimised, victimised, but at the same time with the lurking sardonic consciousness that in the end a victim is stronger than the victimiser. In the end, the victims pull down their victimiser, like a pack of hyænas on an unwary lion. They know it. Cursed are the falsely meek, for they are inheriting the earth. (p.289)

Steadily the narrative ratchets up the pressure. the Bishop orders instructions but when priests preach sermons against Quetzalcoatl they are threatened and intimidated. That Saturday the Sayuna church remains shut. On the Sunday morning men arrive by boat across the lake, march to the closed church, strip off their tops, wearing the blue-and-black sashes of Quetzalcoatl round their waists, one banging the tell-tale drum. A man sings the song of Jesus’ Farewell.

Then arrives Ramón, in a second boat, and marches in procession to the church with his followers and, bizarrely, a priest. The priest unlocks the church and announces to the crowd which has gathered that Christ has left Mexico. Then Ramón’s party go in to the church and come out with every single statue, Jesus, Mary, umpteen saints, carrying them with reverence down to the boat Ramón came in, carefully laying them down. Then the boat casts off, surrounded by a flotilla of interested dinghies and motor boats, and sails out to a distant island, the Island of Scorpions. Here has been prepared an enormous pyre made of iron grills. The devotees pile the statues high and set fire to it. The resulting flames can be seen from the shore. The ‘priest’ who oversaw that strips off his cassock and throws it on the fire, changing to the wide-brimmed hat and white sarape with blue ends of the Quetzalcoatl cult.

from the shore the bewildered villagers cheer, though some lament the departure of the Christ. Those brave enough to venture inside find the church stripped bare. Jesus has left the town.

Chapter 19. The Attack On Jamiltepec

The town clock stops, symbolically. Now the town is living in old pagan time. Weeks pass and a new rebellion somewhere calls all the soldiers away to quell it.

Kate takes a Ford motor car taxi round the lake to Ramón’s hacienda at Jamiltepec. Cipriano’s soldiers who had been guarding it are all gone. The cab driver is keen to drop Kate and head back for the village. Ramón closes and bars the iron gates to the compound then takes Kate up to the balcony. He explains that whenever there’s a ‘rebellion’ it’s the trigger for outbreaks of ‘banditry’ and anyone can be a bandit.

She is congratulating him on removing the statues from the church when there are shots. What follows is extraordinary for a D.H. Lawrence novel, it reminded me of a John Buchan adventure. Ramón and Kate rush up to the roof which is strafed with shots. Ramón has little pill boxes prepared and shoots through slits down into the hacienda courtyard which the raiders have broken into. Betweentimes he has time to fire off a couple of firework rockets as distress flares.

Kate is cowering by the stairwell when she sees a head appear round the bend in the stairs and screams. Ramón comes running, jumps down the stairs at the big brute coming up and there is a highly cinematic struggle with the two men locked together, each trying to draw their daggers, while Kate retrieves a fallen revolver and tries to get a clean shot.

The attacker stabs Ramón in the back as another man emerges onto the rooftop. Kate fires blindly at him twice, winging him, and looks back at the stairwell to see Ramón on top stabbing the big guy in the throat. Then he stumbles back up onto the roof and throws a knife which hits attacker number two in the guts, Ramón leaning over and cutting his throat.

At this point there’s the sound of a car approaching. Ramón stumbles down the stairs with Kate following. In the courtyard she finds he has collapsed from loss of blood and she has to lift the heavy iron bars across the gates to the courtyard, and the car sweeps in along with soldiers on horseback. they’ve come to rescue them. A doctor is called, they strip Ramón’s bloody clothes off and clean his wound as it starts to rain. As you can imagine, Kate is thoroughly shocked.

The lieutenant of soldiers escorts her to a room to rest, and then shows her the bodies of the seven men who died in total, including Ramón’s beloved servant Martin. He explains that these weren’t bandits; it was an assassination attempt, most likely by the feared Knights of Cortes. Then back to see Ramón who has been bandaged and put to bed. he thanks her for saving his life and their souls somehow meet.

Then, shaken, Kate is invited into the car by the lieutenant who leaves a squad of soldiers at the hacienda and drives her back through the by-now-dark landscape back Sayula.

Chapter 20. Marriage By Quetzalcoatl

Days pass as Kate tries to process what she’s experienced. Cipriano drops by to take her to Ramón’s. In the car she has a vision of Cipriano’s rearing masculinity and her soul swoons.

As he sat in silence, casting the old, twilit Pan-power over her, she felt herself submitting, succumbing. He was once more the old dominant male, shadowy, intangible, looming suddenly tall, and covering the sky, making a darkness that was himself and nothing but himself, the Pan male. And she was swooned prone beneath, perfect in her proneness.

It was the ancient phallic mystery, the ancient god-devil of the male Pan. Cipriano unyielding forever, in the ancient twilight, keeping the ancient twilight around him. She understood now his power with his soldiers. He had the old gift of demon-power.

He would never woo; she saw this. When the power of his blood rose in him, the dark aura streamed from him like a cloud pregnant with power, like thunder, and rose like a whirlwind that rises suddenly in the twilight and raises a great pliant column, swaying and leaning with power, clear between heaven and earth.

Ah! and what a mystery of prone submission, on her part, this huge erection would imply! Submission absolute, like the earth under the sky. Beneath an over-arching absolute.

Anthony Burgess tells us that Lawrence developed a kind of cult of submission, demanding that Frieda submit to his pagan masculinity, which she richly ridiculed. But in his novels he could invent a version of Frieda who he could talk round to submission to the great pagan erection, to the dark god Pan etc.

Ramón explains that he is to be the living Quetzalcoatl, while Cipriano will be the living Huitzilopochtli. They need a female goddess to make up the trinity. Will Kate be the living Itzpapalotl? She doesn’t know what to answer.

Cipriano invites her to accompany her, with some soldiers, by boat across the lake to the dusty village of Jaramay. The slow journey across the milky white lake by sailing boat, the landing on a shore of big round stones, the walk into Jaramay are all described with lustrous beauty.

Jaramay was hot as a lava oven. Black low hut-houses with tiled roofs lined the broken, long, delapidated street. Broken houses. Blazing sun. (p.333)

They have lunch at a local place then Cipriano shows her the small workshop where peasants are carding wool and spinning clothes with the Aztec gods’ colours, to be given to Ramón to give to his followers.

Their departure is described just as vividly and on the sail back to Ramón’s, Kate feels for the first time as if she could become a goddess. She sleeps on cushions in the boat and wakes and feels new. When they dock at Ramon’s little harbour, she finds herself ready to marry Cipriano, to be married by Ramón. All three agree.

The sky gathers to a rainstorm. After dark Ramón sends a servant with a native linen chemise to Kate. She is to remove all her old clothes and wear only this. Then he takes her down to the garden where Cipriano is stripped to the waist and in the pouring rain, he marries them, using pagan marriage rites which, presumably, Lawrence invented.

Then Kate goes to her room, strips and is bathed in hot water, then anoints her body with oil. She goes down for dinner where, under Ramón’s guidance, they exchange further pieces of clothing and symbols of marriage.

Chapter 21. The Opening Of The Church

Despite this marriage, Kate insists on going back to her house in Sayula and her fauning, scary old maid, Juana, and her wretched family. In the real world she’ll live as before – only in Ramón’s world will she be married to Cipriano.

One day she hears the familiar pagan drumming which wakes ancient stirrings in the blood. Juana explains that they’ve taken the bells out of the church and replaced it with the pagan drums. The church of Christ has become the temple of Quetzalcoatl. Kate’s given an invitation for a service at the new temple.

There’s a perimeter of guards – the Guard of Quetzalcoatl – who let Kate through. She joins Cipriano on the steps, torn between trying to live up to her role as a goddess, and feeling, in front of those ranks of jet black eyes, like a sacrifice.

Ramón comes out of the church and recites his new liturgy, very much in the style of poetry by D.H. Lawrence, key words of which his followers repeat and the crowd takes up. He and they raise their right arms in an emphatic salute, a gesture which was to become radioactively repellent within a few years and the rise of the Nazis.

Cipriano explains the new rules for the temple i.e. women must be covered and kneel, men must remain erect. The Guard of Quetzalcoatl wears white, there’s a separate guard of Huitzilopochtli who wear scarlet. There follows a long description of the long ceremony Lawrence has invented for his reborn Aztec gods.

In a dramatic moment the whole ceremony is interrupted by a woman in black crawling on her knees along what use to the be aisle of the church, denouncing the whole thing as blasphemy and calling on Jesus to strike Ramón dead in order to save his soul. It is Carlota, Ramón’s wife. Again and again she cries out, while Ramón stands unflinching. Carlota has several convulsions and falls to the floor.

Kate runs to her and Cipriano comes, wraps Carlota in his serape and carries her back out into the sun, while Ramón carries on with another long prayer or piece of liturgy. They carry her to a nearby hotel, call a doctor and priest, and Kate sits with her. She sits with her all day and into the evening as Ramón teaches his followers the dance of the Welcome of Quetzalcoatl, and some of them sail to an island in the lake to perform more rituals.

Ramón arrives to look at his dying wife. Cipriano takes Kate by boat to Jamiltepec where, it is strongly hinted, they will consummate their marriage. Carlota dies at dawn.

Chapter 22. The Living Huitzilopochtli

Carlita’s funeral, then a scene between Ramón and his two sons. Usually away being educated in America, they are brought back to Mexico for the funeral by their aunt. They blame Ramón for murdering their mother, say she is a saint who’s gone to heaven, and criticise him for claiming to be the Living Quetzalcoatl. Ramón is portrayed as a kind of saint of wisdom and understanding.

Kate spends days sitting by the lake. The narrator explains that under the new regime, drums from the old church sound and a pagan prayer is said at dawn, half way through the morning, at noon, half way through the afternoon, and at dusk. It’s easy to be lulled into accepting the idea that the entire population of this Mexican village calmly and completely accepts overthrowing the religion of centuries and accepting a completely new religion with obviously human gods and an entirely new liturgy and set of hymns. But surely this is preposterous? Conventional time i.e. 60-minute-long hours, is abandoned. Instead:

And there were no hours. Dawn and noon and sunset, mid-morning, or the up-slope middle, and mid-afternoon, or the downslope middle, this was the day, with the watches of the night. They began to call the four watches of the day the watch of the rabbit, the watch of the hawk, the watch of the turkey-buzzard and the watch of the deer. And the four quarters of the night were the watch of the frog, the watch of the firefly, the watch of the fish, the watch of the squirrel. (p.374)

The new religion starts to spread to the cities where the blue serapes of Quetzalcoatl are seen and the drums roll in the alternative divisions of the day. General Cipriano wants to recruit the Mexican president, Montes, to declare the Religion of Quetzalcoatl the new state religion of Mexico and impose it by force, but Ramón says no, it must spread organically and by belief.

Ramón writes to various groups trying get acceptance: to the Church authorities saying each people needs its own religion; to socialists rejecting their materialism. Cipriano addresses his soldiers. Lawrence works to make his trio seem as if they actually are metamorphosing into the ancient feathered gods.

When Cipriano was roused, his eyes flashed, and it was as if dark feathers, like pinions, were starting out of him, out of his shoulders and back, as if these dark pinions clashed and flashed like a roused eagle. His men seemed to see him, as by second sight, with the demonish clashing and dashing of wings, like an old god.

This reminded me of J.G. Ballard, a surprisingly large number of whose protagonists wanted to become, or actually turned themselves into birds. As to the morality Ramon and Cipriano preach, it is laughable because it is just a version of Lawrence’s own puritanism and self-discipline.

Cipriano was determined to get some discipline into them. Discipline is what Mexico needs, and what the whole world needs. But it is the discipline from the inside that matters.

Political reformers from Jesus’s time to the present day have wanted everyone to be high-minded, pure in heart, hard working, honest, blah blah. Lawrence goes into detail about how Cipriano reforms his army, starting with stripping almost naked and performing the various dances of Huitzilopochtli for them. That’ll work. They perform a ritual together designed to take them into the dark beyond. You can tell that Lawrence is letting rip all the fantasies about setting up a commune and awakening the dark god within which he had nurtured since he moved to Cornwall in 1916.

Cipriano rows over the lake to see Kate. Asks her to join him in a big ceremony happening the following Thursday. Out of nowhere addresses her by a new name, Malintzi. But Kate refuses. She is rebelling against the whole thing in a little passage important for the overall theme (do you accept the new gods?) and also for the huge, related theme of men and women.

He went away, leaving her rocking in anger on her terrace, in love again with her old self, and hostile to the new thing. She was thinking of London and Paris and New York, and all the people there. ‘Oh!’ she cried to herself, stifling. ‘For heaven’s sake let me get out of this, and back to simple human people. I loathe the very sound of Quetzalcoatl and Huitzilopochtli. I would die rather than be mixed up in it any more. Horrible, really, both Ramón and Cipriano. And they want to put it over me, with their high-flown bunk, and their Malintzi. Malintzi! I am Kate Forrester, really. I am neither Kate Leslie nor Kate Tylor. I am sick of these men putting names over me. I was born Kate Forrester, and I shall die Kate Forrester. I want to go home.’ (p.387)

Chapter 23. Huitzilopochtli’s Night

The Huitzilopochtli ceremony is held one night, in the wide yard in front of the church. Described in very great detail as we get to page 400 of this huge book, it’s hard to pay attention or care very much to these long repetitive liturgies and hymns.

‘Man that is man is more than a man.
No man is man till he is more than a man.
Till the power is in him
Which is not his own.’

And much, much more in the same ilk. By this stage, I just wanted to know whether Ramón and Cipriano get killed or not, which seems the likeliest and inevitable outcome.

In a shocking passage, the leader of the assassins who we saw attacking Ramón’s estate, and the woman who helped him, are led out in front of the celebrants, there’s some religious hocus pocus, then their necks are broken! The reader’s interest sinks even lower. Like just about every revolution and new beginning and utopia ever described or promoted, it starts with killing off all the baddies and people who disagree with it i.e. is a recipe for killing. Lawrence knew this earlier in the novel, where he had people cynically point out that:

‘Whenever a Mexican cries Viva! he ends up with Muera! When he says Viva! he really means ‘Death for Somebody or Other!”

Now, 350 pages later, he seems to have forgotten his own nostrum. Then three more peons involved in the attack are brought forward, condemned, and Cipriano quickly stabs all three in the heart. Oh dear.

Then a procession into the church, now a temple, to a statue of the feathered god, where Ramón and Cipriano act out the roles of Quetzalcoatl and Huitzilopochtli in interminable ceremonies. In the middle of all this we learn that the blood on Huitzilopochtli/Cipriano’s hands can only be washed off by Malintzi, ‘Till green-robed Malintzi brings her water-bowl.’ And as we saw, Malintzi is the new name Cipriano gave Kate.

Chapter 24. Malintzi

At the risk of driving any readers away, here’s an extended quote from the start of the next chapter. It’s important because it 1) speaks to the issue of men and women i.e Kate identifies the executions as horribly male and 2) for its continuation of the geopolitical theme i.e. some behaviour seems appropriate to the more ‘savage’ Mexicans, 3) articulating Lawrence’s theory that the entire continent of America has a history and culture all its own, which is distinctively brutal. And 4) back in terms of the fiction, of the novel, it shows Kate’s reluctance, as a 1) European 2) woman, to buy into the brutal male cult.

When the women were shut out of the church, Kate went home gloomy and uneasy. The executions shocked and depressed her. She knew that Ramón and Cipriano did deliberately what they did: they believed in their deeds, they acted with all their conscience. And as men, probably they were right.
But they seemed nothing but men. When Cipriano said: Man that is man is more than a man, he seemed to be driving the male significance to its utmost, and beyond, with a sort of demonism. It seemed to her all terrible will, the exertion of pure, awful will.
And deep in her soul came a revulsion against this manifestation of pure will. It was fascinating also. There was something dark and lustrous and fascinating to her in Cipriano, and in Ramón. The black, relentless power, even passion of the will in men! The strange, sombre, lustrous beauty of it! She knew herself under the spell.
At the same time, as is so often the case with any spell, it did not bind her completely. She was spell-bound, but not utterly acquiescent. In one corner of her soul was revulsion and a touch of nausea.
Ramón and Cipriano no doubt were right for themselves, for their people and country. But for herself, ultimately, ultimately she belonged elsewhere. Not to this terrible, natural will which seemed to beat its wings in the very air of the American continent. Always will, will, will, without remorse or relenting. This was America to her: all the Americas. Sheer will! (p.402)

She draws a schematic distinction between her second husband, Leslie, who wore himself out and died, who effectively sacrificed his life for the cause of Irish independence; and Cipriano who is the opposite, who is all male assertion and will.

Lawrence goes on, via Kate’s thoughts, to develop the idea that none of us are individuals. Individuality is an illusion created by the mechanical world, the capitalist world of jobs and functions. In that world everyone has a specific task and role. But it’s not the same as their soul. In ‘the vivid world’, almost nobody is a soul, we are all fragments, at best only half a soul.

Now, must she admit that the individual was an illusion and a falsification? There was no such animal. Except in the mechanical world. In the world of machines, the individual machine is effectual. The individual, like the perfect being, does not and cannot exist, in the vivid world. We are all fragments. And at the best, halves. The only whole thing is the Morning Star. Which can only rise between two: or between many. (p.405)

But all Kate’s (justified) reservations are thrown out when Cipriano knocks on her door, tells her he cannot be the living Huitzilopochtli without his bride, without his Malintzi and, despite the pages of reservations we just read, she says yes! And allows herself to be taken to the church, into the vestry, shown new green clothes to put on, emerging to find Cipriano naked and painted with coloured stripes, in front of the statue of Huitzilopochtli. He teaches her the special ‘salute’ to the god and so on.

She sits on the throne next to his throne and suddenly she feels they really are reborn: he is 15 and she is 14 and they are both virgins. I think they have sex.

She pressed him to her breast, convulsively. His innermost flame was always virginal, it was always the first time. And it made her again always a virgin girl. She could feel their two flames flowing together.

She has put off her old identity. Who cares what Cipriano Viedma does as Cipriano. It is as Huitzilopochtli that his acts count. Who even cares what Kate Leslie does?

Chapter 25. Teresa

Ramón marries a new wife, Teresa, aged 28, and brings her home to his compound at Jamiltepec. This leads to an orgy of old-style Lawrence, giving an extended impressionistic account of Kate’s perceptions of Teresa and the not-so-subtle rivalry between them for Ramón, love rivalry which harks back to ‘The Rainbow’ and ‘Women in Love’.

Ramón brings Teresa visiting to Kate’s house. Teresa is dazzled by the air of independence, of a free, educated women surrounded by her own possessions. She isn’t like this at all. She is almost a prostitute to Ramón’s glory.

Which makes it all the more of a surprise when they invite Kate to come and stay with them, she does, and she and Teresa become sort of friends, Kate showing her how to make dresses which suit her thin figure.

Ramón has become a name in the land but he is resisted by the sullen, resentful Mexicans and their ‘devilish malevolence’, as is the secular president, Montes. Ramón travels widely to promote his cult. Teresa is often left alone with Kate. The Mexican autumn comes, with a burst of colourful flowers.

A very extended passage as the two women discuss Ramón, Teresa makes it clear she is not in love, Ramón owns her soul, Kate in her western modern way asking if it isn’t better to keep your soul. Culture clash. Kate is a paradigm of the older, strong, independently wealthy, well-read, well-travelled western woman. But Teresa’s primitive devotion daunts her.

In November Ramón returns from a long trip away, exhausted. Kate realises Teresa is good for him. She wants to go home. Next morning Teresa accompanies Kate as she is rowed across the lake back to Sayula.

Chapter 26. Kate Is A Wife

Back in her (rented) house in Sayula, Kate has a vision of the world way back before the glaciers melted, the cold world where the seas were land and you could walk freely around the world. And Lawrence expresses again his key point, the notion that we still have in us very ancient, pre-modern modes of feeling and being.

Sometimes, in America, the shadow of that old pre-Flood world was so strong, that the day of historic humanity would melt out of Kate’s consciousness, and she would begin to approximate to the old mode of consciousness, the old, dark will, the unconcern for death, the subtle, dark consciousness, non-cerebral, but vertebrate. When the mind and the power of man was in his blood and his backbone, and there was the strange, dark inter-communication between man and man and man and beast, from the powerful spine. (p.431)

Kate is of Germanic-English descent and has always like an aristocrat, that her blood is better, superior to the common ruck. But here in Mexico everyone is of one blood, everyone is on the same level, and she is scared of the looks and resentment she senses in all the Mexicans to the high-handed ways which come so naturally to her.

Which is why she feels she must go back to Europe, and soon. But Cipriano pops up again, renting the best villa on the lake and asks her to undergo a legal civil marriage with him. She says yes because it doesn’t matter to her.

Meanwhile the Quetzalcoatl movement had spread through the country but made enemies. Ramón, Cipriano and their followers were excommunicated. Someone tries to assassinate the president (who is sympathetic to the movement). Abruptly, with a delirious sense of a loss of scale, the narrator tells us that the movement triggers a civil war. The Catholic authorities unleash the Knights of Cortes, there are pitched battles, some generals declare for the church, Cipriano leads his army into battle and defeats them, great loss of life. President Montes declares Quetzalcoatl the official religion of Mexico and exiles the Catholic hierarchy. The armies of Huitzilopochtli and the white and blue sarapes of Quetzalcoatl appeared in all the towns and villages of the Republic.

In the midst of this chaos she is formally married to Cipriano. She has agreed with him that a month later she will sail back to Ireland. But the marriage changes her her. She feels calm. At some weird level she feels her blood changing as she becomes a new person. She feels ‘the death in her of the Aphrodite of the foam: the seething, frictional, ecstatic Aphrodite’.

A passage seems to describe, in very flowery language, a change in her experience of sex. Her former husband, Joachim, was mechanically effective and made her cry out, ‘the final love-cry’. Cipriano’s loving is completely different, something darker and much deeper.

What she had with Cipriano was curiously beyond her knowing: so deep and hot and flowing, as it were subterranean. She had to yield before it. She could not grip it into one final spasm of white ecstasy which was like sheer knowing. (p.440)

More importantly, they remain surprisingly separate. He is his own man and goes his own way. This has been a theme over the past few books, especially in ‘Kangaroo’ – the notion of escaping the clutches even of your partner, the closest person to you in the world, in order to remain independent, discrete, separate.

She has a beautiful epiphany watching Cipriano walk down to the villa’s little harbour, stripping off and getting into the water at the exact moment when the sun breaks over the nearby mountains and the whole surface of the lake turned a miraculous red colour!

Cipriano leaves, riding off on horseback for yet another campaign. That’s fine. Kate likes being by herself. She has a symbolic encounter with a snake which she startles sunning itself on a boulder, and quickly slithers into its hole where it sits watching her. That’s the kind of moment Lawrence is outstanding at.

Chapter 27. Here!

The mood is calm and serene. Ramón and Teresa come to visit in a row boat. Ramón tries to persuade her not to leave. They need her. He is exhausted. Kate sympathises but is deeply torn. Being torn, mixed emotions, ambiguous and contradictory feelings, this is one of Lawrence’s key themes, and this is a good expression of it.

It was as if she had two selves: one, a new one, which belonged to Cipriano and to Ramón, and which was her sensitive, desirous self: the other hard and finished, accomplished, belonging to her mother, her children, England, her whole past. This old accomplished self was curiously invulnerable and insentient, curiously hard and ‘free’. In it, she was an individual and her own mistress. The other self was vulnerable, and organically connected with Cipriano, even with Ramón and Teresa, and so was not ‘free’ at all. She was aware of a duality in herself, and she suffered from it. She could not definitely commit herself, either to the old way of life, or to the new. She reacted from both. The old was a prison, and she loathed it. But in the new way she was not her own mistress at all, and her egoistic will recoiled. (p.446)

Kate is powerfully homesick for Christmas in London. When she refuses to reconsider, Ramón gets up and walks away. She is replaced by Teresa. They walk into Sayula and sit under a tree on the beach watching the quay. There’s a quite brilliant description of them both watching a bunch of peons trying to load a cow and then a reluctant bull up a rickety set of planks and into a boat.

Teresa says Ramón wants her to become one of the gods and when Kate deprecates these men and their bossiness Teresa corrects her and says, when they’re alone, Ramón is the gentlest of men. There are some more descriptions and observations, of a peon repairing a chair, and of an old peasant who is proud of the new-born foal of an ass, whose astonished wonder at the world Lawrence describes with genius. She has a moment of tremendous connection with the black-eyed peasant who owns it.

The midday drums sound as Ramón arrives back down at the beach, having been away on some errand. He and Teresa and Kate get back into the boat. Ramón warns her that these people will worship her for a while and let her queen over them; but eventually there will be a backlash and they will murder her or worse.

Kate doesn’t believe him but brings forward her plans to leave. She books a berth on a boat leaving for Southampton on 30 November. Cipriano returns and she tells him. She watches the waves of emotion pass over his expressionless face from real anger to detachment, to resignation, to indifference. OK. He goes to see Ramón, leaving her by herself. Again. But that’s how she likes it because that’s how her creator likes it.

She was alone, as usual. It occurred to her, that she herself willed this aloneness. She could not relax and be with these people. She could not relax and be with anybody. She always had to recoil upon her own individuality, as a cat does.

It’s at this point that the entire novel reaches its

Turning point:

For Kate is given a series of thoughts which change her mind. She starts out by angrily thinking she wants her independence, she wants to be free, she wants to go home to her people. Lawrence makes her think of the many wealthy independent women who take lovers, toy with them and spit them out.

But then into her mind comes the thought of what invariably becomes of that sort of woman as she enters her 50s and the menopause, how she becomes grey. Lawrence has her call these women grimalkins meaning haggard old women. And she is filled with horror.

And so it is this thought, the prospect of becoming a sad, lonely, single menopausal woman, dried-up with a screechy voice, that terrifies her into thinking that maybe, after all, she should accept the limitations of life and she should submit to Ciprione and to the new cult. Only by submitting to Ciprione can she avoid this horrible fate.

And so she takes a rowboat across the quiet lake, soaking in the beauty of the Mexican landscape on the way.

And when she reaches the jetty of Ramón’s hacienda, she waits in the courtyard because she hears Ramón teaching a new hymn to a singer. First he sings it, then the (much better) singer sings it in full. Kate is enchanted. The servant takes her up to the terrace where Ramón and Cipriano are waiting, in their usual top nakedness.

And there is an uneasy conversation, because both the men know she isn’t really, fully committing herself. Even at this moment when she’s trying to, part of her is holding back. Ramón leaves Kate and Cipriano to sort it out and the last sentences of the novel are:

‘You don’t want me to go, do you?’ she pleaded.
A slow, almost foolish smile came over his face, and his body was slightly convulsed. Then came his soft-tongued Indian speech, as if all his mouth were soft, saying in Spanish, but with the ‘r’ sound almost lost:
‘Yo! Yo!’ — his eyebrows lifted with queer mock surprise, and a little convulsion went through his body again. ‘Te quiero mucho! Mucho te quiero! Mucho! Mucho! I like you very much! Very much!’
It sounded so soft, so soft-tongued, of the soft, wet, hot blood, that she shivered a little.
‘You won’t let me go!’ she said to him.

So it ends not with a bang at all – I felt certain either Ramón or Cipriano would be killed by enemies. No, it ends on this much more ambiguous note: that Kate desperately wants to go back to England, and yet is terrified of the fate of ageing into a sad lonely old woman which awaits her there. So she goes to see the boys to ask to stay and join their movement and yet, even as she does it, she is conflicted about this, too.

You don’t really feel it’s a conclusion at all because you know damn well, from the 461 pages which have preceded this ending, that Kate will continue to feel ambivalent, change her mind, love the new religion, hate it, love Cipriano, hate Cipriano, because that’s what she does, because that’s how all human beings behave in Lawrence.

Note: striking that after 460 pages the fate of the central character is determined by her fear of becoming an unattractive, grey, post-menopausal woman. I’ve written a separate short blog post about this.


Is America (meaning all of North America including Mexico) the death continent?

How would you describe the following passage? Is it philosophy? Or politics? Or speculation? Or cultural theory? Or tripe?

And sometimes she wondered whether America really was the great death-continent, the great No! to the European and Asiatic and even African Yes! Was it really the great melting pot, where men from the creative continents were smelted back again, not to a new creation, but down into the homogeneity of death? Was it the great continent of the undoing, and all its peoples the agents of the mystic destruction! Plucking, plucking at the created soul in a man, till at last it plucked out the growing germ, and left him a creature of mechanism and automatic reaction, with only one inspiration, the desire to pluck the quick out of every living spontaneous creature.

Was that the clue to America, she sometimes wondered. Was it the great death-continent, the continent that destroyed again what the other continents had built up. The continent whose spirit of place fought purely to pick the eyes out of the face of God. Was that America?

And all the people who went there, Europeans, negroes, Japanese, Chinese, all the colours and the races, were they the spent people, in whom the God impulse had collapsed, so they crossed to the great continent of the negation, where the human will declares itself ‘free’, to pull down the soul of the world? Was it so? And did this account for the great drift to the New World, the drift of spent souls passing over to the side of Godless democracy, energetic negation? The negation which is the life-breath of materialism. And would the great negative pull of the Americans at last break the heart of the world?

Like so much Lawrence, it is powerful rhetoric, very pleasurable to submit to and let the waves of argumentation roll over your mind and indulge in wild ideas you find nowhere else? Is American the peak of the mechanical, capitalist, materialist way of living? Does it extinguish the life force, the vibrancy and originality of all the races and ethnicities which settle there? Do they all become clones of the burgers and barbecues way of life? Instead of being the hope of the world, is it the death of the world?

The roll of the rhetoric and argumentation, and something in the idea itself, is plausible and carries you with it, until you put the book down and the illusion evaporates. And if you try to summarise the argument to anyone else you find it comes out absurdly exaggerated and implausible.

Lawrence’s problem was he wanted to be a prophet and a preacher, he wanted to preach a new life of the instincts and the dark gods, but that his preaching only lives in the cadences of his works. Take them out of his texts and words and the ideas, such as they are, flounder and expire. This is why all that so many people remember of him is the sex, thinking of him as the prophet of sex because sex is memorable, sex sticks in people’s minds, sex isn’t very complicated.

Whereas, having read five of his big fat novels, especially ‘Aaron’s Rod’, ‘Kangaroo’ and ‘The Plumed Serpent’, there’s surprisingly little or no sex. Instead they’re packed with hundreds of pages about the soul and the dark gods. The trouble is that, taken out of the roll and flow of Lawrence’s own words, it’s often quite hard to remember exactly what he was saying.

Anyway. He hated America alright, as representing more or less the opposite of everything he valued.

She was weary to death of American automatism and American flippant toughness. It gave her a feeling of nausea.

O tempora, o mores!

In the last few novels Lawrence starts to sound like a grumpy old man. Like all conservatives he laments the fallen standards of his own day, the world is going to the dogs etc. (Worth remembering that he was 16, a teenager, when Queen Victoria died and the Boer War was still raging.) In particular he starts to resent the energy and enthusiasm of the new young post-war generation in a quite amusing way.

‘I think it’s thrilling!’ she said. Like most modern people, she had a will-to-happiness. ‘Isn’t it thrilling,’ cried Owen, whose will-to-happiness was almost a mania.

The younger generation calculates its ‘happiness’ in a more business-like fashion. Villiers was out after a thrill, but he wasn’t going to say he’d got one till he’d got it. Kate and Owen – Kate was also nearly forty – must enthuse a thrill, out of a sort of politeness to the great Show-man, Providence.

In the corridors of the University, young misses in bobbed hair and boys’ jumpers were going around, their chins pushed forward with the characteristic, deliberate youth-and-eagerness of our day. Very much aware of their own youth and eagerness. And very American.

She thought again of going back to Europe. But what was the good? She knew it! It was all politics or jazzing or slushy mysticism or sordid spiritualism. And the magic had gone. The younger generation, so smart and interesting, but so without any mystery, any background. The younger the generation, the flatter and more jazzy, more and more devoid of wonder. (p.112)

This was the beauty of John, that he had had; like a pomegranate on a dark tree in the distance, naked, but not undressed! Forever still and clothe-less, and with another light about it, of a richer day than our paltry, prying, sneak-thieving day.

All echoed or repeated in the rhetoric about the empty-headed youth of today, the car-driving party-loving young friends, of the two daughters in ‘The Virgin and the Gypsy’, written in 1926.

The mechanical world

These grumpy moans feed into the powerful feeling Lawrence expresses in ‘Kangaroo’ and in this novel as well, of wanting to escape a world which has lost its soul in the name of industrialism, production, external factors. His favourite negative adjective is ‘mechanical’ alongside related terms like machine, cogs and so on.

Every one of them, like Villiers, was like a cog-wheel in contact with which all one’s workings were reversed… She made up her mind to be alone and to cut herself off from all the mechanical widdershin contacts. Villiers must go back to his United States. She would be alone in her own milieu. Not to be touched by any of the mechanical cog-wheel people… To turn one’s back on the cog-wheel world. Not to look out any more onto that horrible machine of the world. To look at one’s own quiet little fountain and one’s own little orange trees, with only heaven above… Give me the mystery and let the world live again for me! Kate cried to her own soul. And deliver me from man’s automatism.

Nothing worse than mechanical people.

Kate remembered her English servants in the English kitchens: so mechanical and somehow inhuman.

Or so sad as to have your individuality, your spark, squeezed out of you by the world of machines.

The only thing which is supreme above all power in a man, and at the same time, is power; which far transcends knowledge; the strange star between the sky and the waters of the first cosmos: this is man’s divinity. And some men are not divine at all. They have only faculties. They are slaves, or they should be slaves. But many a man has his own spark of divinity, and has it quenched, blown out by the winds of force or ground out of him by machines. (p.435)

The mechanical world of American machine capitalism.

Cars

And the epitome of the wicked ‘mechanical’ is, of course, the Motor Car. In his novel Howards End, E.M. Forster makes quite plain his loathing of the newfangled motor car which was just embarking on its career of polluting and ruining the English countryside and represented, for Forster, a new shallowness and arrogance. Lawrence feels the same.

Sayula also had that real insanity of America, the automobile. As men used to want a horse and a sword, now they want a car. As women used to pine for a home and a box at the theatre, now it is a ‘machine’. And the poor follow the middle class. There was a perpetual rush of ‘machines’, motor-cars and motor-buses – called camions – along the one forlorn road coming to Sayula from Guadalajara. One hope, one faith, one destiny; to ride in a camion, to own a car.

I agree. Cars should be banned. Motor traffic ruined England decades ago, destroyed childhood (no more carefree playing in the street), destroyed every town and village, covered everything in a film of oily black dust, pollutes and poisons the entire population, quite apart from the 5 people killed and 75 or so seriously injured in road accidents every day. After discussing the souls of the Indians, Lawrence goes on:

White people are becoming soulless too. But they have conquered the lower worlds of metal and energy, so they whizz around in machines, circling the void of their own emptiness.

And people are faster, shinier and emptier than ever in our own times. Hard to disagree with Lawrence on this one.

Clothes

Lawrence has carefully studied the local native Spanish terms for the items of clothing worn by Mexicans.

  • huarache – a type of Mexican sandal, Pre-Columbian in origin
  • huipil – a traditional, loose-fitting tunic worn by indigenous women in Mexico and Central America
  • rebozo – a long straight piece of cloth which looks like a cross between a scarf and a shawl
  • poncho – a single large sheet of fabric with an opening in the center for the head
  • sarape – shawl or blanket worn as a cloak by people from Latin America: sarapes are designed to wrap around you, ponchos go over you with a slit in the middle that to put your head through

A small selection of passing remarks

It is a very long novel and packed with Lawrence’s impressions of Mexico and opinions. The core subject, the spiritual message about the old religion, the new gods and so on, gets pretty tiresome. But the book is thronged with wonderful descriptions of landscape, scenery, towns and villages, from the hugeness of Mexico City to the bleakest abandoned village.

Jaramay was hot as a lava oven. Black low hut-houses with tiled roofs lined the broken, long, delapidated street. Broken houses. Blazing sun. A brick pavement all smashed and sun-worn. A dog leading a blind man along the little black walls, on the broken pavement. A few goats. And unspeakable lifelessness, emptiness. They came to the broken plaza, with sun-decayed church and ragged palm trees. Emptiness, sun, sun-decay, sun-delapidation. One man on a dainty Arab horse trotting lightly over the stones, gun behind, big hat making a dark face. For the rest, the waste space of the centre of life.

To wonderful, wonderful nature descriptions.

Now and again she saw the oleanders and the papaya in the patio garden, by the blue gleam of lightning that fell with a noiseless splash into the pitch darkness. There was a distant noise of thunders, several storms prowling round like hungry jaguars, above the lake.

In her room, like someone striking a match, came the greenish light of a firefly, intermittent, now here, now there.

And hundreds of not-silly, wonderful insights.

Animals are complete in their isolation and their insouciance. With them it is not indifference. It is completeness in themselves.

Life was a more terrible issue even than death. One could die and have done. But living was never done, it could never be finished, and the responsibility could never be shifted.

Lawrence overflowed with breath-taking beauty, wisdom and silliness all mixed together.

Races

Lawrence was writing at a time when it was perfectly acceptable to make sweeping generalisations about ‘races’ which make any modern reader shake with shock.

The dark races belong to a bygone cycle of humanity. They are left behind in a gulf out of which they have never been able to climb. And on to the particular white man’s levels they never will be able to climb. They can only follow as servants. While the white man keeps the impetus of his own proud, onward march, the dark races will yield and serve, perforce. But let the white man once have a misgiving about his own leadership, and the dark races will at once attack him, to pull him down into the old gulfs. To engulf him again. Which is what is happening. For the white man, let him bluster as he may, is hollow with misgiving about his own supremacy. Full speed ahead, then, for the débâcle.

Passages like this reek of the same racial anxiety / paranoia we saw some of the characters in ‘Kangaroo’ express. Alongside it goes Lawrence’s immense, novel-length condescension to the entire Mexican people. I wonder what Mexican intellectuals at the time (or since) made of the book’s relentless criticism of their ‘race’ and culture.

A people without the energy of getting on, how could they fail to be hopelessly exploited. They had been hopelessly and cruelly exploited, for centuries. And their backbones were locked in malevolent resistance.

Above all, beside the primeval and fundamental dichotomy between Male and Female, Lawrence places an even more impassable divide between white and black, in this case white European and Indian or what we’d nowadays (I think) call native peoples.

Kate caught the other woman’s black, reptilian eyes unexpectedly. Usually, she forgot that Juana was dark, and different. For days she would not realise it. Till suddenly she met that black, void look with the glint in it, and she started inwardly, involuntarily asking herself: ‘Does she hate me?’ Or was it only the unspeakable difference in blood? Now, in the dark glitter which Juana showed her for one moment, Kate read fear, and triumph, and a slow, savage, nonchalant defiance. Something very inhuman. (p.349)

Kate’s ‘marriage’ to Cipriano represents a union across both these divides, although all it really does is emphasise them even more. Male and Female. Black and White. Pagan and Christian. Of the three binaries, the latter is what the novel is meant to be about and yet is, arguably, the weakest.

Men and women

There are hundreds of passages about men and women, the entire book is based on primeval gender stereotyping, so ubiquitous, so drenching Lawrence’s thinking and writing as to overwhelm this reader. But some passages stood out as being especially bonkers. Here is Kate sitting at the bedside of the dying Carlota and waiting for the doctor and the priest to arrive.

Kate, too, was a modern woman and a woman in her own rights. So she sat on with Carlota. And when the doctor came, she accepted the obsequiousness of the man as part of her rights. And when the priest came, she accepted the obsequiousness from him, just the same, as part of her woman’s rights. These two ministers of love, what were they for, but to be obsequious to her? As for herself, she could hardly be called a thief, and a sneak-thief of the world’s virility, when these men came forcing their obsequiousness upon her, whining to her to take it and relieve them of the responsibility of their own manhood. No, if women are thieves, it is only because men want to be thieved from. If women thieve the world’s virility, it is only because men want to have it thieved, since for men to be responsible for their own manhood seems to be the last thing men want.

? Is this of a piece with his criticism of the shallowness of the mechanical modern world and the deep acknowledgement of their masculinity which Ramón and Cipriano seem to be on about?

Criticising men

‘Don’t you think, Señora, that the beginning and the end of a man is his vanity? Don’t you think it was just against this danger that Christ came, to teach men a proper humility. To teach them the sin of pride. But that is why they hate Christ so much, and His teaching. First and last, they want their own vanity.’ Kate had often thought so herself. Her own final conclusion about men was that they were the vanity of vanities, nothing but vanity. They must be flattered and made to feel great: Nothing else.’

Just one of many, many passages criticising men and their stupid pride and obstinacy and obsession with sex and wilfulness and addiction tom violence etc etc. But these are matched and maybe exceeded by the hundreds of passages generalising about women, stereotyping women, sweeping gender generalisations. If you’re thinking about reading Lawrence, be prepared for countless passages describing the genders as part of what is his main, central theme – the differences, and chances of reconciliation, between the eternal partners and enemies, men and women.

The intrinsic elitism of the novel

Anthony Burgess points out that the novel is and always has been a bourgeois art form, mostly writing about middle class characters for a middle class audience, and designed to reaffirm middle class values. Even when it’s ‘transgressing’ these values that’s because it assumed their existence and importance in the first place. Reassuring, comforting, underpinning what the young people call our ‘privilege’.

E.M. Forster’s novels do this in spades, telling you that Lucy Honeychurch is ‘sensitive’ or that Helen and Margaret Schlegel are ‘special’ and so, by implication, flattering the reader into thinking they, too, must be especially sensitive and special in order to appreciate these sensitive narratives.

Early on in ‘The Plumed Serpent’ Lawrence, also, makes a throwaway remark which confirmed my hunch about the way the classic novel flatters its bourgeois readers by associating them with special characters.

The world is made up of a mass of people and a few individuals. Mrs Norris was one of the few individuals.

And we readers, the novel suggests by implication, are also among the few individuals, we are special, too. We are able to understand Lawrence’s message, can feel the thumping of the drums stirring our primeval souls, are ready to become gods! The entire activity of reading novels associates us with people special enough to appear in significant narratives, and so implies that we, too, are special.


Credit

‘The Plumed Serpent’ by D.H. Lawrence was published by Martin Secker in 1926. Page references are to the 1978 Penguin paperback edition.

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Graciela Iturbide: Shadowlines @ the Photographers’ Gallery

‘Photography never ceases to surprise me. It continues to give me a reason to learn about the world and about myself.’
Graciela Iturbide

This is a great exhibition, bringing together 60 or so photos by the great Mexican photographer Graciela Iturbide. All the photos are in stylish black and white and are vivid depictions of Mexican life and culture from the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s which almost all have a strange, haunting, almost archaic quality to them.

Mujer Cangrejo (Crab Woman), Juchitán, Oaxaca, 1985 by Graciela Iturbide. Brooklyn Museum © Graciela Iturbide

The decision to shoot in black and white is a big style choice. It sets her photos firmly in the past, into what sometimes feels like an almost mythical past. They have more in common with photography from the 1930s than contemporaneous colour photography from the 1970s and ’80s.

In particular, throughout her career Iturbide has been interested in the lives of Indigenous people of Mexico. For several of her projects she lived with Indigenous people for months, getting to know them, gaining their confidence to allow her to capture snapshots of their rituals, traditions and often threatened ways of life which have lived on into ‘the modern world’. She regularly captures an alienness, an otherness, which is wonderfully strange and different.

Many of her photos are, to the tame English eye, just plain weird. She captures something you read about Mexico, the everyday surrealism of its beliefs and rituals, its obsession with death, with the Day of the Dead, murals of skeletons and skulls on street corners – but also something about the landscapes. Presumably Mexico has roads, might even have motorways, but not in these archaic photos. Here her subjects are set against the barren dusty landscapes which help to give them their stark primeval effect.

Carnival (Carnaval), Tlaxcala, 1974.Courtesy of Evans Haji-Touma © Graciela Iturbide

Potted biography

Born in Mexico City in 1942, Iturbide studied film from 1969 to 1972 but came to realise her true calling was in photography. While still a student she became an assistant to the famous photographer Manuel Alvarez Bravo and under Bravo’s mentorship Iturbide began to develop her own style marked by deep cultural exploration and stark, striking visual poetry.

During the 1970s and ’80s she gained a reputation for spending long periods with the communities she studied, getting beneath their skin and winning the trust of people she captures with astonishing candour.

Her images focus mainly on women, sometimes on children, more rarely on men, and has a strong feminist vibe. Her women don’t conform to any western stereotypes but come over as strong and characterful, wielding their own power and mystique.

There’s a time thing at work, too. For Iturbide sought out places and people left behind in the rush to glitzy modernisation. The Indigenous people she studied continued to carry out strange and archaic rituals, often associated with totem animals, maintaining the customs and practices of pre-Hispanic culture, often to bizarre effect.

In Western culture the 1980s was the decade of big hair, the big bang in the City, cocktails, ‘Miami Vice’, fast cars and flashy living – but not in Graciela Iturbide’s world. Here the archaic and the ancient live on in their dusty surroundings, the human figures, mostly women, standing starkly out against their dry, sun-struck backgrounds with the power of pagan gods or of their calmly untouchable human devotees.

Lizard (Lagarto), Juchitán, ca. 1980. Collection Leticia and Stanislas Poniatowski © Graciela Iturbide

The exhibition is arranged chronologically into four projects.

1. Those Who Live In The Sand, 1979

Throughout her career Iturbide travelled extensively, documenting a variety of cultures and communities. Her work with the Ethnographic Archive of the National Indigenous Institute of Mexico led to a commission to photograph the Indigenous Seri community in the Sonora Desert in north-western Mexico on the Gulf of Mexico near the Mexico-California border. In 1979 she spent two months with the community capturing their nomadic lifestyle, their striking clothes and facial decorations, their imposing presence, all against the blankest and emptiest of landscapes.

All of her photos are brilliant, but this was the one I kept coming back to, an image of profound, archaic depth and wisdom. No surprise that just this one image helped to launch her international career. Has anyone ever been older or wiser than this woman?

Little angel (Angelita), Sonoran Desert, Mexico, 1979. Courtesy of a Private Collection © Graciela Iturbide

2. The Women of Juchitan, 1979 to 1989

From 1979 to 1981 Iturbide immersed herself in the culture of the matriarchal society of the Zapotec people who live in Juchitán de Zaragoza in the Tehuantepec Isthmus in south-eastern Mexico. The resulting set, ‘Juchitán de las Mujeres’ or the Women of Juchitán, established her reputation and included probably her most famous image, ‘Our Lady of the Iguanas’.

Our Lady of the Iguanas (Nuestra Señora de las Iguanas), Juchitàn, Mexico, 1979 © Graciela Iturbide, Courtesy Collection Leticia and Stanislas Poniatowski

3. White fence, 1986 to 1989

In 1986 two American curators conceived a project titled ‘A Day in the Life of America’ and invited 200 photojournalists from around the world to document American life on one day, 2 May 1986 (do you remember what you were doing on that day?).

Iturbide chose to document the Chicano community of Boyle Heights in East Los Angeles. She arranged to shadow a group of women from the community for a day and a half and produced a portfolio of photos. This one shows female gang members, or cholas, of the White Fence gang. Apparently the gang dates back to the 1920s and their name refers to the painted fence around their local church La Purisima Catholic Church. She shot them in front of a street mural depicting Benito Juárez, Emiliano Zapata, and Pancho Villa none of whom, it turned out, they could identify.

Cholas, East L.A, USA, 1986. Collection Nathalie and Nicolas Motelay © Graciela Iturbide

As the curators point out, there were complex issues of identity at work here, with the heavily made-up cholas too Mexican to fit into White Anglo-Saxon society and yet themselves alienated from Mexico’s political and cultural tradition, resulting in a double marginalization.

Having established this bond, Iturbide returned to the community over subsequent years, building up a portfolio of photos. This was my favourite, a skinny guy with no shirt holding up a baby wearing a gang bandana and shades, at some kind of street shrine to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Hispanic culture with knobs on.

Cholo, Maravilla Neighbourhood, East Los Angeles, 1985 © Graciela Iturbide

4. Naturata and Later Work, 1996 to 2004

Surprisingly, given her reliance on people as subjects for most of her career, in the late 1990s Iturbide’s photos began to dispense with the human figure and revealed a growing interest in the abstract effects of textures, materials, shapes and patterns.

The last room of the exhibition doesn’t feature a single person but presents an array landscapes shot with a bleak, harsh abstraction which, again, takes you back to the 1930s or ’40s. She did a series of carefully staged shoots at Oaxaca Botanical Gardens, some of them, strangely, featuring cacti tied with ropes in which were bound newspapers, sacking and even planks. Why? I get that the attachments begin to transform these organic plants into human sculptures but – why?

Jardín Botánico de Oaxaca, México, 2002. Courtesy of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston © Graciela Iturbide

Other photos focus on ropes or cables looping across the barren landscape or set against the bare blue sky. Why? La poésie pure? In fact some of these images were shot outside her native Mexico, in the southern US, in Italy or India, as she travelled widely, always with an eye for the incipiently abstract in bleak abandoned landscapes…

Installation view of ‘Graciela Iturbide: Shadowlines’ at the Photographers’ Gallery, showing three semi-abstract landscapes photos from her late Naturata phase (photo by the author)

It’s none of the human portraits but these later works which (rather mysteriously) give the exhibition its title of ‘shadow lines.’

A pretext to know the world

In one of her many interviews Iturbide described photography as ‘a pretext to know the world, to know life.’ But it’s a very particular kind of life, isn’t it? A particular take on particular aspects of a particular country. There are plenty of rich Mexicans living in well-watered villas or working in gleaming high-rise buildings in Mexico’s big cities, plenty of middle-class Mexicans driving big cars to work, employing nannies and cleaners, attending gala receptions with their trophy wives. People have been partying on Mexico’s beautiful beaches for fifty years or more.

All of this, all the colour and dazzle of modern life has been rigorously excluded to create a very narrow, specific and culturally unified vision. Iturbide’s work is very anthropological, in the old sense of the word which I remember from university, the study of minority or peripheral cultures, treated with respect, understood on their own terms, valued because they sit outside our homogeneous Western world.

It’s this independence – in Iturbide’s own attitude, and in the attitude she captures in her strange and fearless women – which creates their very powerful effect. The result is not just beautiful but genuinely inspiring. It might not be a quite rational response but many of her Indigenous women feel profoundly free. They look and feel supremely confident and at home.

Baile (Dance), Juchitán, 1986 by Graciela Iturbide © Graciela Iturbide

Triggers

At the entrance to the gallery there’s a sign reading: ‘This exhibition has potentially triggering content. Please email for further information, or speak to a member of staff.’

I searched high and low for this triggering content but couldn’t find any. Was it the dead iguanas? The baby wearing shades? The girl gangs of Los Angeles? Photos of tied-up cactuses? Or all these images of women who don’t conform to any western preconceptions?

Maybe the sign outside should read: ‘Warning: this show contains images of strong women!’ Strong and ancient and eternal.

Video


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Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and Mexican Modernism: The Jacques and Natasha Gelman Collection (2001)

This is the large-format, floppy paperback catalogue of an exhibition held at the National Gallery of Australia in 2001. The exhibition featured paintings by 20th century Mexican artists collected (and sometimes commissioned) by the wealthy art collectors, Jacques and Natasha Gelman. The book contains:

  • The Director’s Foreward by Brian Kennedy
  • The Curator’s preface by Robert R.Littman, exhibition curator
  • Frida and Diego by Gregory O’Brien, curator
  • ‘People are vying for shreds of her garments’ by Anthony White, curator
  • ‘A pact of alliance with the revolution’: art and politics in Modern Mexico by Barry Carr, Institute of Latin American studies
  • Jacques and Natasha by Anthony White
  • ‘My mother, myself and the universe…’ by Anthony White
  • Catalogue of the works
  • Artist biographies

Modernism

For a start, I’m surprised they call it Modernism. I thought that’s exactly what it wasn’t. I thought Modernism was cubism, futurism, suprematism, constructivism, vorticism and so on, mainly from the 1910s. I thought Rivera’s art was part of the international reaction against the abstraction of the 1910s, and back towards various forms of realism – called neo-classical realism in France, or the Neue Sachlichkeit in Germany, or the narrative realism of the Mexican muralists.

That said, once you start flicking through this book and taking in its bewildering range and variety – with Surrealist works next to abstract expressionism, light-hearted caricature next to Frida’s earnest self-portraits – you realise that maybe ‘Modernism’ is the only label which works as a hold-all term.

The Gelmans

Jacques Gelman was born into a rich Russian Jewish family in 1909. His family fled the Russian Revolution to Germany. Twenty years later, Gelman fled Nazi Germany on the eve of the Second World War, making his way to Mexico – which was more open to European refugees than America.

In America Gelman became a successful film producer and, along with his wife Natasha, also a keen collector of contemporary Mexican art, building up an impressive collection and commissioning portraits from leading artists.

Upon Mrs. Gelman’s death in 1998, their collection was donated to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Highlights were loaned to the National Gallery of Australia for this exhibition in 2001. And hence this book, the catalogue of that exhibition.

Saint Frida

Frida Kahlo dominates the title and the exhibition and this catalogue.

Even in 2001 the curators write about Frida as having achieved cult status. And as the recent exhibition at the V&A showed, it wasn’t just her paintings, but her entire self-presentation – the dresses and costumes and jewellery and hair, the whole look – which make Kahlo so visually attractive, so iconic.

To a historical materialist like me, what would be interesting would be an analysis of Frida Kahlo’s rise and rise which asked why she has become such a superstar cultural icon and attempted to answer in terms of cultural history and political change.

After all, during their lifetime her husband, Diego Rivera, was much the more famous of the two, up there with Picasso as an internationally recognised synonym for modern art. And Rivera pioneered a uniquely public form of art – his educational murals – which were commissioned by the Mexican state and millionaire American patrons. He could hardly have been more high profile and public.

So what has changed in our culture to lead to the fact that this politically committed, socialist visionary is now almost entirely overlooked in favour of his preening, self-obsessed, young wife?

For you can’t deny that Frida’s work is entirely, obsessively, unrelentingly about herself – it consists of literally hundreds of self-portraits, wearing various costumes, in bed, bound in barbaric medical equipment, crying, bleeding, suffering miscarriages.

Henry Ford Hospital (The Flying Bed) by Frida Kahlo (1932)

Henry Ford Hospital (The Flying Bed) by Frida Kahlo (1932)

The decline of radical politics and its replacement by grievance and victimhood

When I was growing up in the 1970s it was axiomatic that there would soon be a socialist revolution which would sweep away American imperialist capitalism. ‘Up the workers’, ‘Come the revolution’, ‘The workers. United. Will never be divided’, ‘One out, all out’ were just some of the radical slogans which people shouted on umpteen marches and picket lines. (I’m not saying I agreed with it, but these were the widespread assumption among lefties at the time, in universities, the media, film, theatre and so on).

Over the last forty years that hope – the hope for the ‘overthrow of capitalism’ – has, it seems to me, been completely abandoned and replaced by the notion of separate and specific ‘liberations’ to be achieved, in different ways, by distinct sections of the population.

Gay liberation. Women’s liberation. Black power. Over the past forty to fifty years each of these sectors or groups has developed its own discourses, narratives, lists of grievances and injustices. Each of them insists on being heard.

Women need to talk about women’s issues and be heard. #believewomen. #me too. Gays need to talk about the gay experience. Lesbians need to find their voice. Transgender people need to be listened to. We need to talk about mental illness. Black lives matter. Refugees must be given a voice. Muslim women must tell their stories. We need to talk about…. you name it.

The idea of a unified, mass working class movement seeking to effect a fundamental transformation of society has disappeared. It has been replaced by a fragmented landscape made up of millions of voices, all clamouring to be heard, all desperate to tell their stories of suffering and victimhood and exclusion. My view is that this fragmentation of the progressive cause into scores of squabbling identities almost guarantees the defeat of the Left which we are seeing in developed countries around the world.

In this completely different cultural and political climate, Rivera’s big, loud, working-class politics seems bullying, sexist, old-fashioned, toxically masculine, redundant, or disgusting.

(The art scholars in this book don’t miss an opportunity to accuse Rivera of toxic masculinity, pointing out his philandering and unfaithfulness and general feckless masculinity on pages 10, 14, 25, 26 and 27. The fact that Frida had a staggering number of extra-marital affairs is mentioned as only her due. She was an artist, you know, and a suffering woman in a man’s world. Of course she was justified in taking love wherever she could find it.)

By contrast with Diego’s discrediting as an epitome of discredited, male-dominated, socialist, trade union politics, Frida has become an emblem of our modern concerns, dominated by the Eternal Victimhood of Woman Under The Patriarchy – about the pity and the pain and the pathos of being a woman. (The story of the bus accident in which Frida was injured by a handrail is told on page 9, repeated on page 25, and then told again on page 27. The message is rammed home. Poor Frida. Beastly Diego.)

Injured as a girl (by a male bus driver, obviously), subject to endless medical operations (by male surgeons, of course), forced to wear painful corsets and prosthetics (by male specialists, the brutes), betrayed by her philandering husband (cheating, false and unfaithful Diego), ignored by the (male) art establishment during her lifetime, refusing to conform to (male) canons of female beauty – Frida ticks pretty much every box on the feminist checklist.

My point is that the definition of what is ‘progressive’ or ‘radical’ has changed out of all recognition in the past forty or so years.

Once it was someone who tried to unite the working classes, the poor and the dispossessed, in order to seize power and transform the economic basis of society. Now it is someone who has suffered greatly because of their gender or race. Once it was the semi-pagan idea of the active hero and revolutionary. Now it is much more like more Christian idea of the suffering martyr, the victim, the permanently injured, offended or abused.

And Saint Frida – along with Saint Sylvia and Saint Emmeline, Saint Virginia and Saint Rosa – is one of the patron saints of the new religion.

The cult of Frida

I had written the above simply as a response to the way Frida’s suffering and endurance and saintliness is so obsessively repeated in the preface and the introduction and the text of the book, and was congratulating myself on developing this little critique, when I came across the fourth essay in the book – ‘People are vying for shreds of her garments’ – and was gutted to discover that everything I’d thought through for myself – is common or received opinion.

‘People are vying for shreds of her garments’ by Anthony White does precisely what had occurred to me – tries to account for the rise and rise of the Cult of Frida over a period when traditional class-based politics has declined and special-interest-group, identity politics has taken over.

White is far more scathing than I was prepared to be. He doesn’t hold back and he makes the link – which i was rather proud of – between the Cult of Frida and Christian ideas of sainthood and suffering:

Kahlo has become the exemplary modern cult figure, in the tradition of Christian saints and teenage pop stars…

Her legacy has grown into a multi-million dollar industry that crosses national and cultural boundaries….

One of the recent sources of Kahlo’s recent celebrity has been a narrative of suffering which feeds into a well-established, popular fascination with personal struggles with pain…

Her work connects to a pervasive tradition in western art that depicts the tribulations of saints

The figure of Frida Kahlo appeals especially to women… Kahlo’s rising popularity in the 1970s was paralleled by the growth in feminism… (Anthony White, p.13)

She was a martyr to pain, menstrual cramps, erratic periods, ill-fated pregnancy, tragic miscarriages, painful abortions, unfaithful men, establishment misogyny, the whole panoply of the evil patriarchy. What woman hasn’t experienced one, many or all of these grievances? Her story features them all, whipped up into a frothy intensity of pathos.

The Broken Column by Frida Kahlo (1944) (or a portrait of the artist as a martyr)

The Broken Column by Frida Kahlo (1944) (or a portrait of the artist as a martyred woman in a man’s world)

Mexican Modernism

Having discussed Frida and her many martyrdoms (physical, psychological, artistic, social) at length, Anthony White then moves on to discuss the rest of the artists featured in the show. He distinguishes three branches of Mexican Modernism, as found in the Jacques and Natasha Gelman Collection:

  • Murals The politically motivated, accessible, murals for the masses made by Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros and José Clemente Orozco.
  • Surrealism The Englishwoman Leonora Carrington, one-time lover of Max Ernst, is credited with spurring Mexican Surrealism after her arrival in 1942: André Breton had already visited Diego and Frida and declared Frida’s paintings masterpieces of Surrealism in 1938; another Mexican woman surrealist featured in the collection is María Izquierdo.
  • Abstraction – Carlos Mérida and Gunther Gerzso.

The works

The book includes reproductions of 60 paintings and seven photos. It opens with the wonderful photos by Manuel Álvarez Bravo who was, apparently, ‘Mexico’s first principal artistic photographer and the most important figure in 20th-century Latin American photography’.

Bravo took portraits of Diego and Frida (of course) but also a huge range of subjects, from modernist architecture, street life, and women in various states of undress. Tut tut. Objectifying, misogynist, sexist pig. Great photos, though.

Forbidden fruit by Manuel Álvarez Bravo

Forbidden fruit by Manuel Álvarez Bravo

There is just one photo by his wife, Lola Alvarez Bravo, who was also, apparently, a notable photographer in her own right – an interesting collage of black-and-white photos of ballet dancers stuck over images of the Mexican desert, which my daughter liked.

And then there are paintings by:

  • Leonora Carrington
  • Rafael Cidoncha
  • Miguel Covarrubias
  • Jesús Reyes Ferreira
  • Gunther Gerzso
  • 10 by Frida
  • Agustín Lazo
  • Carlos Mérida
  • Roberto Montenegro
  • José Clemente Orozco
  • Carlos Orozco Romero
  • David Alfaro Siqueiros
  • Juan Soriano
  • Rufino Tamayo
  • Emilio Baz Viaud
  • Angel Zárraga

Apparently, the Gelman collection contained more works by Gunther Gerzso than any other painter, about 40 of them. I can see why. They’re big, bold, colourful abstracts (although Gerzso himself said that they were not purely abstract, but had their source or inspiration in the dry, sun-baked landscape of Mexico). Their existence also shows how the Gelmans continued collecting long after Frida and Diego had passed away (1954 and 1957, respectively), well into the 1960s and 70s, into a completely different cultural and visual world.

This example of Gerzso reminds me a bit of the kind of abstract prints my parents and their friends bought in Habitat and Heals and had on their walls in the 1970s.

Figure in red and blue by Gunther Gerzso (1964)

Figure in red and blue by Gunther Gerzso (1964)

Summary

This is an interesting book because it a) contains a handful of masterpieces by Diego and Frida, but more because b) it introduced me to a dozen Mexican artists I’d never heard of before.

On the one hand, Rivera and Frida emerge as head and shoulders the best and most distinctive of the artists here, with Diego’s painting of a Calla lilly vendor, and any of Frida’s amazing self-portraits, leaping off the page – for example the ones with monkeys, in a red and gold dress or with braids.

But it was good to also learn about Latin America’s premiere photographer, Manuel Álvarez Bravo and about Gerzso and a few others. I took a shine to the crisp abstract works of Carlos Mérida, with their late-1950s, rather Festival of Britain vibe.

Festival of the Birds by Carlos Mérida (1959)

Festival of the Birds by Carlos Mérida (1959)


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Rivera by Andrea Kettenmann (1997)

The German art publishers Taschen recently repackaged their Basic Art range into a standardised, large, hardback format, retailing at £10. Each volume in the series focuses on one famous painter or art movement.

The attraction of Taschen editions is that the text is factual, accurate and sensible, and the books have lots of good quality colour reproductions. Even if you don’t bother to read the text, you will be able to skim though plenty of paintings, alongside photos where relevant, of the artist or movement being discussed. The text of this one was written (as usual) in Germany, back in 1997, then translated into English.

Rivera’s life story is brilliantly told in the imaginative, sardonic and whimsical Dreaming With His Eyes Open: A Life of Diego Rivera by journalist Patrick Marnham, published in 1998, so not much in the text surprised me, although, being much shorter, it had the effect of making the sequence of government buildings which Rivera created murals for a lot clearer, and it also explained the last decade or so of Rivera’s life (he died in 1957) a bit better.

What I wanted was a record of Rivera’s paintings. I’ve read and seen a lot about the murals, but they generally overshadow his easel paintings. I wanted to see more of the latter.

Rivera was immensely gifted, started drawing early (the earliest work here is a very good goat’s head, drawn when he was 9) and enrolled at the Academy of San Carlos in Mexico when he was just ten, quickly hoovering his way through late academic styles. He went to Spain in 1907, aged 21, and studied Velasquez and El Greco. And then onto Paris in 1910, where he quickly discovered the avant-garde and was an early adopter of cubism.

For the first 20 years of his life, he was an omnivore, a chameleon, and I am impressed by the ability, and variety, of these early works.

French impressionism

The House on the Bridge by Diego Rivera (1909)

The House on the Bridge by Diego Rivera (1909)

Psychological realism

Head of a Breton Woman by Diego Rivera (1910)

Head of a Breton Woman by Diego Rivera (1910)

Cubism

Adopting the cubist style wasn’t just a fad. From 1913 to 1917 Rivera painted solely in the cubist style, completing some 200 works, took part in impassioned debates about various types of cubism, was friends with Picasso and Juan Gris. When he exhibited some of the works in Madrid in 1915, they were the first cubist paintings ever seen in Spain.

Zapatista Landscape by Diego Rivera (1915)

Zapatista Landscape by Diego Rivera (1915)

Futurism

Futurism is different from cubism because whereas the latter started out as a new way of seeing very passive objects – landscapes, but particularly Parisian still lifes, wine bottles and newspapers on café tables – Futurism uses a similar visual language of dissociated angles and fractured planes, but in order to depict movement. Also, if this makes sense, its angular shapes are often more rounded, a bit more sensuous (it was, after all, an Italian movement).

Woman at a Well by Diego Rivera (1913)

Woman at a Well by Diego Rivera (1913)

Russian modernism

Rivera experimented with a brighter, more highly coloured, more nakedly geometric types of modernism, a style that reminds me of Malevich. Maybe influenced by conversations with Russians in Paris, including Voloshin and Ilya Ehrenburg. And the fact that Rivera’s mistress, Angelina Beloff, was Russian. This is her suckling their baby.

Motherhood by Diego Rivera (1916)

Motherhood by Diego Rivera (1916)

Mural style

In 1917 Rivera definitively broke with cubism. He studied Cézanne, and the earlier Impressionists. Deprived of the sense of belonging to a communal avant-garde he was at a loss, stylistically.

Toying with returning to Mexico after 13 years in Europe, in 1920 Rivera gained funding to go on a long tour of the frescos of Italy.

In 1921 he finally arrived back in Mexico, and was one of several leading artists taken by the new Minister of Education and Culture, José Vasconcelos, on a tour of pre-Columbian ruins, studying the carvings of men and gods.

At last Rivera felt he had come ‘home’. The Italian frescos, but especially the pre-Colombian art, and the encouragement of the left wing populist minister all crystallised his new approach. He would completely reject all the stylistic avant-gardes of Europe, and melding everything he had learned into a new simple and accessible art for the public. He wanted to:

‘reproduce the pure basic images of my land. I wanted my painting to reflect the social life of Mexico as I saw it, and through my vision of the truth to show the masses the outline of the future.’

The Mexican revolutionary government wanted to commission public murals to educate a largely illiterate population. Rivera received a commission to create murals depicting Mexican art and culture and history and festivals at the Mexico City Ministry of Education, and thus began his long career as a public muralist, and as one of the leaders of what was soon a Mexican school of mural painting.

Mural of exploitation of Mexico by Spanish conquistadors in the Palacio Nacional, Mexico City by Diego Rivera

Part of the mural titled Exploitation of Mexico by Spanish conquistadors, in the Palacio Nacional, Mexico City by Diego Rivera

But he was surprisingly badly paid ($2 per day) and so had to continue selling sketches, drawings and paintings to tourists and collectors. Often they were sketches or trials for individual subjects which would then appear in murals.

Bather of Tehuantepec is well known because it marks such a radical break with the immense sophistication of his earlier work. It is highly stylised but not so as to make it almost unreadable (as in cubism). The opposite. It is stylised to make it simple, ‘naive’, peasant, and accessible. Note the child-like simplicity, the primal colours. And the child-like use of space, the plants at the bottom simply giving structure and space to the bending body. It points to the mural style which incorporate elements not for any ‘realism’ but subordinated to narrative and message. Here the message is the primal simplicity, the utter lack of pretension, of the Mexican Indian washing.

Bather of Tehuantepec by Diego Rivera (1923)

Bather of Tehuantepec by Diego Rivera (1923)

Lilies

Rivera liked flowers. Calla lilies are, in a way, highly schematic plants. Big, tall and simple, with simple bold flowerheads, Rivera featured them in a whole series of paintings. This picture uses an immensely sophisticated grasp of perspective, colour and volume to create a strikingly ‘simple’ picture.

Flower Day by Diego Rivera (1925)

Flower Day by Diego Rivera (1925)

After looking at it for a while I noticed the compact, squarely arranged feet of the peasants at the bottom of the picture. Showing the way Rivera’s interest in cubes and angles and blocs of paint, was transmuted into the semi-cartoon simplification of the mural style.

Mexican realism

Rivera was expelled from the Mexican Communist Party after a difficult trip to the Soviet Union in 1927. In the early 1930s he went to America and painted murals in San Francisco, Detroit and New York, but these commissions came to a grinding halt when he fell out with the Rockefellers in New York after painting the face of Lenin into a mural in the new RCA skyscraper in 1933. He was fired and the mural was pulled down.

Back in Mexico in the 1930s, Rivera found government commissions hard to come by and developed a profitable sideline in a kind of Mexican peasant realism. He painted hundreds of pictures of Mexican-Indian children, sometimes with their mothers – selling them by the sackful to sentimental American tourists. They kept the wolf from the door while he tried to get more mural commission but… it’s hard to like most of them.

Modesta and Inesita by Diego Rivera (1939)

Modesta and Inesita by Diego Rivera (1939)

Surrealism

I know from the Marnham book that André Breton, godfather of the Surrealists, came to stay with Rivera and Frida in 1938. I didn’t know that Rivera made an excursion into the Surrealist style and exhibited works in a major 1940 exhibition of Surrealist art.

The Hands of Dr Moore by Diego Rivera (1940)

The Hands of Dr Moore by Diego Rivera (1940)

Society portraits

Right to the end he made important and striking murals, such as the striking Water, The Origin of Life of 1951, an extraordinary design for the curved floor and walls of a new waterworks for Mexico City.

But at the same time – the late 1940s and into the 1950s – Rivera also produced commissions, usually portraits, for rich people, especially society women, which are surprisingly at odds with his commitment to the violent rhetoric of the Stalinist Communist Party.

Portrait of Natasha Gelman by Diego Rivera (1943)

Portrait of Natasha Gelman by Diego Rivera (1943)

Obviously, the striking calla lilies a) echo the slender elegant shape of the svelte millionaire’s wife b) echo their use in quite a few earlier paintings. But there’s no getting round the contradiction between this kind of rich society portrait and the intense engagement with the poor, with landless Indians, with the conquered Aztecs, of so many of his murals.

Having slowly trawled through his entire career, I admire the murals, and am often snagged and attracted by this or that detail in the immense teeming panoramas he created – the Where’s Wally pleasure of detecting all the narratives tucked away in a panoramic work like the Exploitation of Mexico, above.

But, given a choice, it’s the early cubo-futurist, or futuro-cubist works, which give me the purest visual pleasure.

Portrait of Adolfo Best Maugard (1913) by Diego Rivera

Portrait of Adolfo Best Maugard (1913) by Diego Rivera


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Diego Rivera: The Detroit Murals and the Nightmare of War controversy

This blog post accompanies my review of Diego Rivera: The Detroit Industry Murals by Linda Bank Downs (1999). It really is a beautifully produced book, giving the reader access to loads of preparatory sketches and cartoons made by Mexican muralist Diego Rivera before he painted the vast murals depicting the Ford motor factory at Detroit onto the walls of the Detroit Institute of Arts in 1932. It features photos of the great man in action (and catching sneaky kisses from his wife, Frida Kahlo) and a detailed analysis of each of the 27 murals’ design and meaning.

This post is a note about the epilogue to the main story of the murals, in which the book’s author, Linda Bank Downs, describes the fascinating incident of the political controversy which suddenly engulfed the murals almost 20 years after they were painted.

The Nightmare of War and Dream of Peace

Rivera had been expelled from the Mexican Communist Party in 1929, following a visit to Moscow during which he criticised Stalin’s leadership (he began the Detroit murals 3 years later). For the next twenty years he remained, rather pathetically, desperate to be readmitted to the party.

In 1952 twenty long years later, years which had seen the disastrous Second World War bring death and upheaval to every part of the globe, Rivera was commissioned to paint a portable mural for a Mexican art exhibition in Paris. He chose as his subject The Nightmare of War and Dream of Peace. Now, the Korean War had broken out in 1950 and was still ongoing. The communist North Koreans were backed by Stalin and were soon lent troops from China, which had only just come under the rule of the Chinese Communist Party led by Mao Tse-Tung. The portable mural Rivera created caused an international scandal.

Rivera’s mural is not only packed with detail but is, in fact, a painting within a painting. It is a mural of a mural. On a wall in some Mexican city is painted the political mural but, if you look closely, you can see that this mural ends three quarters of the way to the right, it ends along with the wall it’s painted on. Beyond the end of the building we can see a panoramic view of the modern Mexican city, with its bustling traffic, high rise buildings and billboards. And after a moment, you realise that all the figures along the front (including a portrait of his wife, Frida) are standing or walking in front of the wall with the actual mural on it.

The Nightmare of War and Dream of Peace by Diego Rivera (1952)

The Nightmare of War and Dream of Peace by Diego Rivera (1952)

These figures standing in front of the mural are being moved along the pavement from right to left. They are being handed copies of the Stockholm Appeal by a man in a black suit at far right, by Rivera’s wife, Frida Kahlo in her wheelchair, by the central figure of the worker with his back to us, who acts as the dynamic fulcrum of the action, and on the left by the two chaps standing behind a makeshift table, who are persuading citizens – be they peasants or smart-suited urban types – to add their names to the petition.

So what was this Stockholm Appeal which is at the centre of the painting? The Stockholm Appeal was a short, simple text, launched in 1950, which called for an absolute ban on nuclear weapons. The appeal was launched by the French Communist physicist Frédéric Joliot-Curie, and the petition gathered a supposed 273,470,566 signatures. Joliot-Curie is depicted to the left of the central worker, facing us, wearing a black beret and a yellow tie.

Behind this bustling scene of street-level politics is the mural itself. This depicts, at top left, Uncle Joe Stalin and Chairman Mao offering a peace treaty to the Western powers – France personified as a woman wearing a sky blue dress and a liberty cap, pugnacious John Bull standing behind her, resting a hand with knuckle dusters on the globe which stands between them, and a white-top-hatted Uncle Sam behind them both.

The two-thirds of the mural to the right depict the horrors of war. Against the backdrop of a vast atomic mushroom cloud, steel-helmeted soldiers are 1) crucifying 2) shooting by firing squad and 3) whipping the victims of war, peasants with Asian faces.

The Korean War

The point is that Rivera painted this mural at the height of the Cold War and two years into the bitter Korean War (1950 to 1953). The Korean War began when communist North Korean forces invaded South Korea, with no warning or pretext. They pushed the unprepared South Koreans and their handful of peacetime American allies right back to the south-east of the peninsula and very nearly conquered it all.

Until the hero of the war in the Pacific, American General MacArthur, launched a daring amphibious landing half way up the peninsula, not far from the southern capital of Seoul, threatening to cut the North’s supply lines and take them in the rear. The victorious allies forced the North right back up to the original border between the countries, and then pushed them back up towards Korea’s border with China.

It was at this point that Mao Tse-Tung’s Communist China – which had only ‘fallen’ to the communists as recently as 1950 – sent huge numbers of Chinese Red Army cadres to reinforce the North Koreans, while the Americans, leading a supposedly United Nations force, reinforced its armies – and so the war settled down to a brutal war of attrition.

Rivera wasn’t wrong in depicting a world brought to the brink of nuclear war. When the Chinese joined the war and pushed the allied forces right back to the middle of the peninsula, MacArthur seriously suggested to President Harry Truman that they launch a nuclear attack on Chinese cities. He was promptly sacked, but that’s how close to a nuclear war the world came.

Controversy in Detroit

OK so how does any of this affect the Detroit murals which Rivera painted 20 years previously? For the simple reason that Rivera depicts as heroes of peace the two brutal communist dictators, Stalin and Mao, which the USA was at war with, against whose armies American boys were fighting and dying – and this depiction inflamed American public, political and artistic opinion against him.

Rivera was vilified in the right-wing and liberal press, by artists and politicians alike. The McCarthyite hearings of the House Un-American Activities Committee were just about to start, with their hounding of anyone suspected of even the slightest left-wing leanings and in this mood of war fever and patriotic paranoia, it’s no surprise that voices were raised criticising the largest example of Rivera’s work in America – the Detroit murals. Why, asked patriots and anti-communists, was Detroit promoting the work of a war-mongering commie?

Detroit’s city council took up the cry, and one councilor, Eugene Van Antwerp, called for the murals to be whitewashed over. However, the director of the Detroit Institute of Arts, Edgar Richardson, to his great credit, stood his ground. He argued that the murals were great works of art and an obvious tribute to the capitalist inventiveness and industriousness of America, which were in no way affected by the changing political beliefs of their creator.

Richardson had a massive sign painted and hung up outside the institute, which read:

Rivera’s politics and his publicity-seeking are detestable.
But let’s get the record straight on what he did here.
He came from Mexico to Detroit, thought our mass production industries and our technology wonderful and very exciting, painted them as one of the great achievements of the twentieth century.
This came just after the debunking twenties when our own artists and writers had found nothing worthwhile in America and worst of all in America was the Middle West.
Rivera saw and painted the significance of Detroit as a world city.
If we are proud of this city’s achievements, we should be proud of these paintings, and not lose our heads over what Rivera is doing in Mexico today.

Given the local and national pressure he was under, this is an eloquent and canny defence, appealing not to vague principles of artistic freedom, but to his reader’s patriotism and civil pride. The politicians insisted that there be a public consultation about the work’s future but, in the event, Richardson only received a handful of letters and the protest, such as it was, fizzled out.

Rivera and the Communist Party

If we return to the big art expo in Paris which he’d painted the Nightmare for, the organisers of the Mexico stand pleaded with Rivera to change his depiction of the Russian and Chinese dictators. When he refused, they decided not to exhibit the painting. This prompted the Mexican Communist Party to express righteous indignation, propagandise about ‘freedom of expression’ and to hold a public viewing of the mural, attended by numerous communist officials, writers and fellow travellers.

Sadly for Diego, none of this helped his almost obsessive attempts to rejoin the Party. In the same year, his fourth application to rejoin was rejected. In 1953 Rivera sent the mural – which was always designed to travel – to China where it subsequently disappeared and has never been seen again. How fitting it would be if it was destroyed by radical students in the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s!

In 1954 Kahlo, now very ill, committed suicide. Rivera made her funeral into a Communist Party demonstration, and his fifth application for readmission to the Mexican Communist Party of Mexico was finally accepted. Three years later Rivera himself died.

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo in front of the unfinished mural, The Nightmare of War and the Dream of Peace (1952) Photo by Juan Guzmán

Frida Kahlo (in wheelchair, left) and Diego Rivera and (standing on the right) in front of the unfinished mural, The Nightmare of War and the Dream of Peace (1952) Photo by Juan Guzmán

How long ago all these Cold War concerns seem. The world was an incomparably more dangerous place in 1952 than it is now, as mention of the Korean War going to the brink of nuclear disaster indicates.


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Diego Rivera: The Detroit Industry Murals by Linda Bank Downs (1999)

[Rivera] has built up a powerful narrative style of painting, which makes him, it is safe to say, the only man now working, who adequately represents the world we live in – wars, tumult, struggling peoples, hope, discontent, humour and speeding existence.’
(Edgar P. Richardson, one of the directors of the Art Institute of Detroit)

Diego Rivera’s Detroit murals

In April 1932 the Mexican mural painter, Diego Rivera, arrived in Detroit to fulfil a commission from the city’s Art Institute. Rivera had already painted two sets of murals in San Francisco and was coming fresh from being the subject of an immensely successful one-man retrospective at New York’s (new) Museum of Modern Art.

Chief patron of the Art Institute and sponsor of the murals was Edsel Ford, son of Henry Ford, founder of the famous automobile company. In fact Ford, by this stage, was no longer just running a successful car company, he had created the largest and most technically advanced industrial complex in the world. This industrial city within a city not only contained all the manufacturing elements required for the production of cars, it included factories turning out steel, cement, glass and electricity. The site had its own canals and railways, and had developed ship, tractor and airplane manufacture so that it could control the delivery of all the raw materials necessary to car production.

Like many visitors, Rivera was awe-struck at what he saw. He spent three months visiting every part of the works, having the engineering and machines explained to him, and developing his designs. He made hundreds of sketches and studies as well as commissioning photographs by the company photographer.

The murals were to be painted on the two long, tall, facing walls of what was, at that point, the garden courtyard of the Art Institute. There were to be two main murals, giant paintings in which Rivera captured the thrilling complexity of factory production — the construction of the interior of an automobile on the North Wall, the manufacture of the exterior of the car on the South wall.

Detroit, Man and Machine, North Wall in the Detroit Institute of Art by Diego Rivera (1932)

Detroit, Man and Machine, North Wall in the Detroit Institute of Art by Diego Rivera (1932)

Above these giant paintings ran two horizontal bands in which Rivera painted less cluttered, more monumental figures depicting the races of the world and the raw materials lying under Detroit’s soil (on the North Wall [above] you can see the figures representing the Indian and African races; on the South Wall [below] figures representing the white and Chinese races.)

Detroit, Man and Machine, South Wall in the Detroit Institute of Art by Diego Rivera (1932)

Detroit, Man and Machine, South Wall in the Detroit Institute of Art by Diego Rivera (1932)

And running along beneath the main panels were a series of smaller, rectangular spaces into which Rivera painted different aspects of the worker’s day — arriving at work, lunch break, and different perspectives on the works.

The East and West walls contained doors and windows so Rivera had less space to play with and so, again, painted symbolical rather than naturalistic subjects — on the East wall a long thin band with a foetus lying in the soil, on the West wall [below] two depictions of shiny, tubular machines flank the main door while directly above them is a black and white painting designed to look like a relief frieze showing a Ford transporter ship bringing raw materials from abroad, while above that is a set of paintings depicting the latest Ford airplanes.

The West wall murals

The West wall murals

In all there were 27 separate panels.

Rivera began painting on 25 July 1932 and finished work in March 1933. Despite vocal criticism from right-wing journalists, politicians and preachers attacking him for being foreign, an atheist and a communist — and attacks from the other end of the political spectrum, from communist writers and officials accusing him of selling out to the Yankee dollar — the murals were opened to tremendous critical acclaim, and became an instant hit with visitors.

The images were reproduced in papers and magazines and art books around the world and consolidated Rivera’s reputation as Mexico’s greatest artist with one of the most recognisable visual styles in the world. It is telling that when the Rockefeller Foundation was looking for bang up-to-date artists to decorate the lobby of their new skyscraper in New York, they approached Matisse, Picasso and Rivera. He was in that league.

This book

This book is a joy to behold and handle. It’s a large-size and hefty hardback (31.5 cm tall by 20.5 cm wide), the paper is beautiful, the print is lovely and crisp, and the quality of the photo and painting reproductions are first class.

The USP of the book is that it was only during the 1990s that a whole world of cartoons, sketches and photographs which had been involved in the making of the murals first came to light.

Linda Bank Downs helped to direct investigations into the archives of not only the Art Institute but the Ford Company Museum and Detroit’s other archives, so that researchers were able to slowly assemble a massive collection of preparatory works, sketches, cartoons, notebooks, plans, designs, as well as official and private photos which record and document every stage of Rivera’s researches, preparations and painting.

These are now all gathered together and explained in this book. The result is fabulously presented and absolutely fascinating. There are chapters on the origin and development of the commission itself, and then an absolutely riveting description of exactly how the murals were prepared, which includes a precise recipe for each of the five layers of plaster required, and detail on the painstaking preparation of each of the colours to just the right fineness and density.

We learn the biographies of the half dozen assistants who were required for the project (including the unlikely figure of Lord Hastings, an English aristocrat who wanted to help the working classes), and a portrait of life in broader Detroit — in reality, a grimly rundown city with mass unemployment, hunger, riots and endemic racism.

A chapter describes ‘the Cosmology of Technology’ i.e. explains the multitude of manufacturing processes which Rivera depicted, and the next chapter presents the surprising variety of art scholarly interpretations the murals have been subjected to.

The book ends with an entertaining account of the ‘controversy’ surrounding the paintings which Downs, after extensive research, now thinks might actually have been created by the Ford Company’s own press and PR people — and was a spectacular success.

All the way through the book are excellent, top quality photos — of Detroit, of the factory, of Diego at work, of his assistants hard at work, of him mingling with his American hosts in embarrassed group shots, even of the great man sneaking a secret snog with his wife, Frida Kahlo, who dutifully brought him a cooked meal of vegetarian Mexican food, just the way he liked it, every day at lunchtime.

Diego Rivera having a cheeky snog with Frida Kahlo on the scaffold inside the Detroit Institute of Arts (1933)

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo having a snog on the scaffold inside the Detroit Institute of Arts (1932)

There are extensive reproductions of Diego’s preparatory sketches and drafts and plans — and then the book goes on to present wonderfully panoramic views of each panel alongside extensive close-ups of the details, explaining the function of each piece of equipment, the names of many of the men depicted, and also the cameo appearances Rivera painted in to the murals of his patron, the Institute’s director and a cheeky self-portrait, among many more.

This is a wonderfully intelligent and beautifully produced book about a major twentieth century work of art.


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Mexico reviews (including more Frida and Diego)

The Murals of Diego Rivera by Desmond Rochfort (1987)

Diego Rivera:

  • painted murals from 1921 to 1957
  • painted literally hundreds of mural panels
  • covered more wall space with murals than anyone else in history

Whether you like the murals comes down to a couple of questions:

  1. do you like the rejection of almost all 20th century artistic sophistication in favour of a deliberately figurative, almost cartoon-like style?
  2. do you respond to the composition and layout and design of specific murals?
  3. do you like the political or ideological message of the murals?

The message

As to point 3 – the message – I take it that Rivera’s repeated themes that the Aztecs had a fine civilization until the killer Cortes massacred them all, that Mexican peasants are noble and pure but are tyrannised and brutalised by their Hispanic masters, and that unemployed striking workers are being beaten up by the police while the spoilt rich bourgeoisie swigs cocktails in evening dress – so that the workers must take up arms and stage a revolution to overthrow the regime – I take it none of these ideas come as news to anyone any more, or that anyone gets very excited about murals with titles like ‘This is how the proletarian revolution will be’.

The Arsenal by Diego Rivera (1928)

The Arsenal by Diego Rivera (1928)

Given the thousands of paintings, murals and statues of Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin which festooned every space across the Soviet Union and eastern Europe for 70 years until its collapse in 1990… I take it no-one is excited by the image of Marx et al in a mural any more.

The opposite: all of Diego’s murals evoke a deep nostalgia for the long-lost period of the 1920s and 1930s when artists and poets and playwrights were all solidly left-wing, joined the Communist Party, made plays and poems and paintings and posters extolling the noble proletariat, confident that history was about to topple in their direction. How wonderfully certain they must have been.

Thinking about it, Rivera is very like Otto Dix, George Grosz and the other Weimar artists who used cartoons and caricature to express their seething anger at social injustice in the style which became known as The New Sobriety.

The only difference from them is in Rivera’s additional twin themes of colonisation and race. George Grosz didn’t have to go back to the era of the Reformation (1517) to explain 1920s Germany, but Rivera did have to go back to the Spanish conquistadors (1519) to explain 1920s Mexico.

The history of Mexico

Grosz didn’t feel compelled to draw a history of Germany; there were already countless histories of Germany; he was only interested in the corrupt and unfair present.

But Rivera did feel compelled to draw a history of Mexico, in fact he drew it again and again, because the meaning of Mexican history was still very fiercely contested in his age. After you get beyond the same kind of nostalgia for a simpler, more polarised and more politically charged artistic world that you get when you read Brecht or listen to Kurt Weill – after the purely proletarian concerns fade away – it is the multiracial and ethnographic aspects of Rivera’s imagery which sticks out.

The Ancient World by Diego Rivera (1935)

The Aztec World on the west wall of the National Palace of Mexico by Diego Rivera (1929)

After the initial burst of invention in the 1920s, what this book rather brings home is the repetitiveness of the imagery. Or, if a scholar argued that the actual images and compositions are amazingly diverse – maybe what I mean is the repetitiveness of the problem.

And the problem is – the meaning of Mexico. Where did it come from? Who are the Mexicans? What does it mean to be the joint heir of both the cruel Aztecs and the bloody conquistadors? When both sides very obviously had their shortcomings, which ones do you choose as your ancestors? Where is Justice? What – as Lenin said – is to be done?

The Ministry of Education murals 1922 to 1928

Rivera’s first project was the biggest of his career, painting the walls of the galleries surrounding the two big courtyards of the Ministry of Education, which he renamed the Court of Labour and the Court of Fiesta. It took from 1923 to 1928 and by the end he’d created 235 panels or 1,585 square metres of murals.

At the same time he began a commission to paint a converted chapel at the new Universidad Autonoma de Chapingo. The earliest Education Ministry ones, like the entire Chapingo set, ones have a really primitive didactic feel. There are relatively few figures, carrying out archetypal actions set against a brown background. The influence of the early Renaissance is really visible: the bent figures of the mourning women entirely wrapped in their cloaks reminds me of Giotto.

'The Blood of the Martyrs' from the Chapel at Chapingo by Diego Rivera (1926)

‘The Blood of the Martyrs’ from the Chapel at Chapingo by Diego Rivera (1926)

In both sets of murals you immediately see that his central achievement was to heave the entire concept of mural painting from its religious origins – and even from the heavily ‘symbolic’ imagery used by some secular, monumental muralists at the end of the 19th century – and to consciously, deliberately and powerfully, turn it into the depiction of an entire nation, of Mexico – through portrayals of its geographic regions, of its favourite fiestas and festivals, of its industry and agriculture, using compositions packed with people, characters, caricatures, satire and sentiment.

To me many of them have a medieval interest in crowds. They remind me of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales in their enjoyment of the variety and quirkiness of life – not forgetting that Chaucer’s variety also included bitter social satire, sentimental religiosity, and unquestioning praise of the medieval knightly code.

In just the same way Rivera features:

  • crowd scenes, whose pleasure derives from the sheer profusion of humanity, as in the village scenes of Brueghel
  • crudely bitter but still amusing social satire
  • revolutionary sentimentality – for example where a poor whipped peon is wrapped in a shroud or a fallen comrade is buried and the viewer is meant to choke back a sob of emotion
  • and throughout many of the murals runs unfettered praise for men draped in bandoliers and holding guns – revolutionaries, freedom fighters, guarantors of the Revolution etc.

The joy of crowds

The Day of The Dead - The Minitry of Education (Court of the Fiestas) by Diego Rivera (1924)

‘The Day of The Dead’ from The Ministry of Education (Court of the Fiestas) by Diego Rivera (1924)

The mass, the throng, the diversity of life – like Breughel.

Political satire

The Wall Street Banquet form the Ministry of Education (Court of the Fiestas) by Diego Rivera (1926)

‘The Wall Street Banquet’ from the Ministry of Education (Court of the Fiestas) by Diego Rivera (1926)

The rich are sat at table not to eat, but to read off a tickertape telling them the value of their stocks and shares. The bluntness of the idea and the grotesqueness of the faces remind me of George Grosz and other Weimar satirists who had been doing the same thing for eight years or more, just not on walls.

The noble poor

We are meant to compare and contrast the filthy rich with the noble poor, the liberated peasants, who live with simplicity and dignity. Eating what they grow themselves. For, as Zapata repeatedly said: the land belongs to he who tills it… and the fruits thereof.

Children. The elderly. All under the governance of the wise man, who is himself beholden to the female principle of the fruit of the soil, as worked by peasants (to the left) under the watchful gaze of a Party commissar (to the right).

'Our Bread from the Ministry of Education (Court of the Fiestas) by Diego Rivera (1928)

‘Our Bread’ from the Ministry of Education (Court of the Fiestas) by Diego Rivera (1928)

War is wrong

War is always wrong unless, of course, it’s your war, fighting for your cause.

Fighting in the imperialist war was, according to the Bolsheviks, foolishness. Not because there should be peace. But because workers of all lands should unite together to exterminate the bourgeoisie and other class enemies right across Europe, right around the world. A creed which certainly did lead to guerrilla and civil wars across Europe, Asia, Africa and the Americas, for much of the 20th century.

'In the Trenches' at the Ministry of Education by Diego Rivera (1924-28)

‘In the Trenches’ at the Ministry of Education by Diego Rivera (1924-28)

Off to America

It is ironic that, as soon as Rivera had become famous as a bitingly anti-capitalist, communist artist, he was taken up by… super-capitalist, mega-rich Americans.

The Yankees invited him to do murals at the San Francisco Stock Exchange (1930-31) and Art Institute (1931), at the Ford motor works in Detroit (1932), and then at the Rockefeller Centre in New York (1933). At the same time as Diego was the subject of the Museum of Modern Art’s second ever one-artist retrospective.

God, how simply fabulous the super-rich New Yorkers and their wives in their diamonds and furs look as they arrived for the opening night party! How simply adorable the fire-breathing Communist Mexican turned out to be! And so witty! And did you talk to his simply delightful wife!

Just to make this point quite clear, the mural Rivera painted in San Francisco adorns the stairs leading up from the Stock Exchange itself to the Stock Exchange’s private luncheon club. The word ‘elitist’ is thrown around a lot by left-wing critics, but could a location be more restricted and elite?

But it was the murals he made in Detroit which Rivera himself considered the best he ever made. He was intensely professional about preparing the space, researching the engineering and technology of car manufacture, and then creating compositions which are awesome in scale, packed with detail, but so cunningly composed as to create a beautiful sense of rhythm and flow.

Crucially for the patron Edsel Ford, and the Art Institute which hosts them, and for admiring visitors generally, there is next to no political content in them whatsoever. They simply show men at work in modern factories, hymns to the marvel of modern technology.

North Wall at the Detroit Institute for Arts by Diego Rivera (1933)

North Wall at the Detroit Institute for Arts by Diego Rivera (1933)

The Detroit murals were followed by a falling-out with the owners of the Rockefeller Building who had commissioned a big mural in the lobby of their swanky new Manhattan skyscraper but cancelled it when Rivera insisted on painting in the face of Lenin.

With no other commissions in view, Diego reluctantly returned to Mexico in 1934 where he fell out with the government and devoted the rest of the decade to easel painting and political activism.

He only returned to mural painting in 1940 with the immense panorama of ‘Pan-American unity’ painted in America again, for the Golden Gate International Exposition in San Francisco.

I think what this book shows is that far from showing ‘Mexico’ any clear political way ahead (there wasn’t, after all, anything like a Communist revolution in Mexico. In fact precisely the opposite, the bourgeois class consolidated its permanent grip on power by inventing a ‘big tent’ political party during the 1930s – the Institutional Revolutionary Party – designed to incorporate all political factions and classes and thus make elections and political parties unnecessary, and the PRI went on to rule Mexico without interruption until the year 2000) Rivera’s work really brings out and dramatises

  1. its history to date (along with the more garish aspects of the contemporary situation – rich versus poor – town versus country – peasant versus landowner – Marx versus Henry Ford)
  2. puts ordinary Mexicans, the peasants and farmers and soldiers and workers and priests and landowners and urban passersby – all of them – up on the wall to be seen and recognised as Mexican

I think this explains why modern, post-political, post-communist scholarly commentary prefers to dwell on what it calls issues of ‘identity’ rather than the more blatantly communist elements in Diego’s work. It’s safer.

Mexico as a maze

Looking at Rivera’s densely packed and colourful later works, from the 1940s and 1950s, makes you realise that Rivera certainly created a strong visual identity for his country and countrymen in the 1920s and 1930s – but then remained trapped in the maze of that Mexican history and, above all, snagged on the horns of that Mexican dilemma: are we European or Indian? Aztec primitivists or scientific rationalists? Workers or bosses? Mestizos or criollos?

To some extent you could argue that the very packed-out nature of his great interlocking mural of Mexican history which decorates the stairwells of the National Palace in Mexico City – the way Aztecs and conquistadors, knights and peasants, the contemporary Mexican government and the heroes of the 1910 revolution, are all combined in the same image – captures the overwhelming, confusing and directionless nature of Mexican history.

As this book admits, Rivera’s history pictures present ‘a history shorn of many of the qualifications and complexities associated with the historical transformation of Mexico’ (p.59). In other words, a historical fantasy.

History of Mexico mural in the main stairwell of the National Palace by Diego Rivera (1929-35)

History of Mexico mural in the main stairwell of the National Palace, by Diego Rivera (1929-35)

There’s a great deal of ‘Where’s Wally’-type pleasure to be had from identifying different groups of characters in these vast paintings – and figuring out who they are and how they fit into the national story.

Rivera and his contemporaries, supported by some critics, often explained his socially conscious murals as the modern equivalent of Christian iconography. Just as the frescos of the Renaissance depicted key moments in the story of Christ and illuminated key ideas in Christian theology for an illiterate audience so, they argued, Rivera’s murals were designed as visual guides to the illiterate Mexican peasant and prole, explaining key moments of Mexican history, showing Karl Marx with his arm stretched out pointing towards a better future.

But to the casual observer, his vast panoramas of Mexican history (like the one shown above) just look like a mess. A confusing and perplexing gallimaufrey of historical events and figures all thrown together into an almost indecipherable crowd.

They become, if you like, charming illustrations for an already-educated bourgeoisie. you have to be already very well educated to understand what is going on in his murals.

Hence his wild success with –not just Americans – but the very richest of the richest Americans. He wasn’t feted by John Steinbeck and Dorothea Lange – the socially conscious artists – in New York. He was adulated by the Rockefellers and the Guggenheims and the Astors.

Maybe it’s a simplistic thought, but it seems to me that the more sophisticated and complex Riviera’s murals became, the more they became popcorn, bubblegum cartoons, full of fascinating detail, but lacking the anger and energy of his earliest works.

Pan American Unity by Diego Rivera (1940)

Pan American Unity by Diego Rivera (1940)

Pure against impure

To dig a little deeper, comparing the background and enactment of the Mexico City murals against the American ones, and reading up about Rivera’s wild enthusiasm for America, the conclusion I draw is that – he liked America because it was so psychologically untroubled.

I know there had been forty years of rocky industrial relations since the 1890s, and a march of unemployed workers ended in shooting only weeks before Rivera arrived in Detroit to paint his mural there. But the Americans Rivera met were all full of national self-confidence, self-belief, untroubled by doubts. This was the exact opposite of the deeply troubled intellectual class in Mexico.

And, in my opinion, the reason for this is that the white Americans he met had essentially exterminated the native peoples in order to own the land and country. Nothing held them back. They were creating the American Dream free and untrammelled by negative thoughts or anxieties. As far as they were concerned it was a big empty space, ripe for the taking.

Whereas Mexico had been, and was still, held back by massive guilt for its colonial oppression, for the extermination of an obviously highly cultured civilisation. And Mexican intellectuals could never forget this fact because the majority of the Mexican population was mestizo or mixed race, in your face wherever you went, and almost all condemned to grotesque rural poverty.

The central problem of Mexican society –the land question – was an ongoing problem inherited from the Spanish, the systematic semi-slavery of the vast majority of the population of illiterate forced labourers, mostly descended from the original tribal peoples.

America didn’t have that problem, having very effectively exterminated its native peoples and not intermarried with them. Instead, Rivera met nothing but rich, confident, exuberant representatives of a boundlessly confident Master Race, carried along by the knowledge that they led the world in science and technology.

In other words, Rivera was a pioneering example of the Post-Colonial Predicament which trapped and challenged thousands of writers and artists, and tens of millions of subject peoples around the world, for much of the 20th century.

I think it’s this which makes Rivera truly revolutionary: not the slogans and pictures of Marx, but the fact that he struggled all his life to make sense of the mixed heritage of coloniser and colonised, struggling to reconcile two completely different histories, traditions, languages and ethnic identities. And if he didn’t really, in the end, succeed, it was an honourable failure and nonetheless produced a lifetime of wonderful, inspiring and fascinating public art.

The book

This is a large-format art book, containing just 104 pages, of which:

  • seven present a thorough chronology of Mexican history from Independence (1811) to the end of the reforming Cárdenas presidency in 1940, with many evocative black-and-white photos
  • one page carries a poem by Pablo Neruda
  • two pages of Bibliography
  • four of notes

Which leaves 81 pages of text, illustrated with about 30 contemporary black-and-white photos and 120 plates of the murals, of which 37 are in colour.

I found the text heavy going. It was written in 1987, which is a long time ago and people back then, especially academics in the humanities, still put a lot of faith in international communism. The text completely lacks the dry style, lively humour and interesting psycho-sexual speculation which makes Patrick Marnham’s biography of Rivera so enjoyable and thought-provoking.

A lot of the photos aren’t that great, and the black and white plates are quite small.

The book gives generous quotes from contemporaries, especially the other muralists of the day such as David Alfaro Siqueiros, and a highlight is the vitriolic attack which Siqueiros launched on Rivera in the mid-1930s, accusing Diego of selling out and becoming a bourgeois painter.

There is a lot of small detail, about minor murals missed by Marnham’s biography, and a number of sidebars pleasantly go off on a tangent from the main narrative with what are in effect little articles explaining all aspects of Mexican culture, which are diverting and often very interesting.


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