Tag Archives: bread

Panettone

A fruitcake by any other name is still a fruitcake.  I know, not many of us enjoy the taste or texture of candied fruit.  It has been a staple of European cakes and breads for centuries, and panettone isn’t an exception.  Originating in Milan as a Christmas bread, it has become popular all over the globe any time of year thanks to Italian immigrants during and after World War II.

I had been wanting to make this for almost a year.  My disastrous attempts at starting a seed culture took care of making it!  But alas, my barm is bubbly and pungent and now I can continue on my journey.

I followed the recipe fairly religiously except for one thing:  flavoring.  I have been using Fiori de Sicilia for some time now and very much enjoy the flavor.  Be warned:  it will take over any other flavorings in your recipe and is very overwhelming.  in an average recipe (say for a cake or dessert) I use only three or four drops.  It adds that certain something people just can’t put their finger on.

They turned out beautifully in their stiff paper collars.  Be careful not to over bake or else they will form a thick, tough crust.  This delight is best served with a warm beverage such as coffee or tea.

Home Hearth Baking

One of the greatest drawbacks to home bread baking is the fact that most conventional ovens can’t reach temperatures hot enough for ideal artisan bread baking.  My ovens only allow a temp of 550.  Most professional bakeries, especially those with wood fired ovens reach a minimum of 800 degress with 1,000 not unheard of.  Besides the high temperatures, inventions like steam injected ovens have transformed professional break baking.  The bright side?  Now manufacturers of home ovens are beginning to make efforts to provide foodies with semi-professinoal equipment.

So how can you hearth bake at home?  It’s actually quite easy.  There are a few dynamics at work here.  Before you even start to preheat your oven check the shelving.  Here are a few tips…Make sure your racks are in the proper position.  If you can fit all your loaves/buns/etc. on one shelf, place the shelf in the middle slot.  If you are using two shelves, you will probably need to switch shelves half way through to ensure even baking and the best color.

Using a quality oven stone (most commonly known as a pizza stone) makes for a great outcome.  Once the stone comes to temperature, it retains its heat rather well.  It is important not to place a cold stone in a hot oven as it will result in fractures and or cracking.  Always place your stone in the oven before you preheat it.  Make sure the stone is at leat 1.5″ from the oven walls.  If you use two stones like I do, place one to the right and one to the left.  This allows for air circulation on the sides and through the center.  You can also stack two stones close to each other  if you’re baking on only one stone, the bottom one (see picture below).  Stacking like this ensures a very even bake.  Allow plenty of time for your preheat.  The stones will require additional time to come to temperature.  Be prepared to spend about $80 for a quality stone.  With proper care it will last for many years.

Preheating your oven to a temperature of 25-50 degrees higher than the suggested baking temp allows for heat loss when the oven doors are open.  The swing in temp can mean the difference between an OK crust and an artisan crust.  Make sure you lower the temperature after loading the ovens.

If you have a steam injected oven, lucky you.  It’s a wonderful thing.  If not, cheat!  Place a small pan in the bottom of your oven during the preheat.  I use an old brownie pan.  It should be away from the stone so as to allow the steam to rise freely.  Please be careful not to spill on your oven’s glass.  Cold water and 500 degree glass can be a recipe for disaster.  You don’t want to crack your glass!  The same applies to the stone.  If you use a spray container, spray the oven walls, not the stone or oven glass.

Here are a couple of link for sourcing quality baking stones:

Forno Bravo

Breadtopia

French Country Bread – Pain de Campagne

I found this recipe attractive for two reasons:  first, because it used a portion of whole grain flour and second, because it could be shaped easily.  As a child, my grandfather used to bring back epi loaves from a bakery in Miami.  I remember being fascinated by the pointy rolls all stuck together.  30 years later, I’m still fascinated by all those pointed rolls stuck together!  It is a very visually pleasing shape and one not readily found.

As far as the dough goes, I was glad to see that it was more manageable than the pain a l’ancienne.  It has umpf!  This made it much easier to shape than any of the other recipes I’ve tried so far.  Admittedly, the smaller loaves did not turn out as expected.  The braided loaf seemed to melt all together and the round couronne, well, wasn’t a crowning achievement.  So I cheated!  Since I didn’t press down hard enough with the dowel or use enough flour, the creases never stayed separated.  So, just before baking, I made cuts with a serrated knife.  Not the look that was intended, but it worked out in the end.

You say focaccia, I say fougasse

This is probably one of the world’s best known and oldest breads with its hallmark dimples and flat oval shape.  The name comes from the Latin words panis focacius meaning bread from the center (hearth).  It is understandable why this bread is so named since the hearth was the center of the Roman home; and for that matter homes throughout most of human history.  It actually predates the Romans having been well documented  in Greed and Etruscan society as far back as 700 BC.  Most gastronomic historians agree that this is the forerunner of modern-day pizza.  Even today focaccia is often made with cheese and various toppings such as cured meats, olives and cheeses.  A sweeter versions is made with dried or candied fruits and sprinkled with sugar.

This is also a great example of how food travels.  The Ligurian province of Italy (in Tuscany it is made without salt and called schiacciata) lies in the upper west of the country bordering France.  In Provence and the Languedoc, this bread is known as fogassa.  The farther away from Italy it travels, the more French becomes the name. In Burgundy it is known as foisee or fouaisse while in greater France you can find it by the name fougasse.  And down the Iberian peninsula in  Spain, they know it as hogaza.

Focaccia

Where do I start?!?  This was truly a labour of love.  First let’s talk abut the poolish.  Poolish, by the way, is the type of starter used in this recipe.  It was named for the Polish immigrants who brought this pre-ferment to France in the mid nineteenth century. This was made the previous day.  So two things that I didn’t like about this recipe:  1) the time it took to make, and 2) the size of the loaf it made.

It took me the better part of the afternoon to make this recipe.  The dough was difficult to handle due to the high ratio of water.  It was sticky and viscous.  The most annoying part of the process was the hour and half of folding before the hour rest, then the makeup followed by a two hour proof.  Whew!  For the topping I used some tepenade I had made a few days ago though I’m sure whole olives would have made for a better presentation.

As for the size…holy buckets, it’s HUGE!  It filled the entire pan and rose about 2 1/2 inches; slightly unwieldy and unless cut before serving, would fill your table.  I would suggest making it in two pans.

All said and done, the texture was like silk with large holes and a distinctive taste contributed by the poolish.  Simply delicious but I wonder if it would have been so delicious if it took me 3 hrs instead of 8!  Don’t worry, I’ll make it again.

Pain a l’Ancienne

This rustic French bread is a delight for the taste buds. If you’ve ever doubted the reason to manipulate time in a bread recipe, this will change your mind. For this recipe, I baked it “European style” with the dark golden brown crust (versus the American style which is much lighter). Also, preparing your oven for hearth baking with the addition of steam is critical to the success of this recipe. I will post more on hearth baking in the near future.

Pain a l'anceinne

Brioche Revisited…

I must admit, I fell in love with this bread.  Since New Year’s Eve dinner included filet mignon I thought I’s take it up a notch and make boeuf en brioche.  Since the Middle Class brioche was a bit soft, I used the Poor Man’s brioche recipe.  The dough was much closer to a traditional bread dough in terms of its consistency and handling.  The fact that this recipe could be done in a few short hours was attractive.  After an hour’s ferment, I divided the dough into 6 pieces and rolled them into 8″ circles.  I placed 1/2 oz of fois gras in the centre of the dough, placed the seared filet (about a minute and a half on each side) on top and carefully wrapped it.  Gave it an hour’s proof and slipped it into a 400 degree oven.  The recipe said 25-30 minutes but they started to become well browned at the 12 minute mark so I covered them with foil.  They came out nearly the size of softballs!  Next time I will roll the dough out a bit more thin.  And I’m sorry to say that I was not able to photograph them since my dinner guests devoured them before the thought occurred to me!

The next morning I took out the loaf of the Middle Class brioche which I had frozen, sliced it into 1/2 inch pieces and made French Toast.  If you’ve never had French Toast using brioche, you’re missing out!!  It’s a little slice of heaven!

Brioche

Brioche is the Queen of all breads. Whether it’s poor man’s or rich man’s brioche, biting into a slice will cause your taste buds to dance! I choose the middle recipe for this venture. I was too chicken to attempt the rich man’s recipe and the poor man’s one sounded so terribly pedestrian. So I chose the middle road. Though it is suggested by Peter Reinhart that the dough retard (be placed in the fridge) overnight, I made it the same day chilling the dough for almost 6 hours. It was quite firm and not as easy to work with as I would have thought. I made 11 brioches a tete (since I can’t find my 12th brioche tin!!) and 1 loaf. Next time I will make the little ball on top with less of a “neck” as I don’t think I rolled it out thin enough. The loaf took much longer to proof, about 3 hours. I suppose this is due to the fact that the dough retains the cold much longer due to its volume.

To echo the author’s sentiments, this is THE definitive bread to make french toast (and if you dare, the nest for an awesome Eggs Benedict). The texture reminded me of powdered sugar; just melted when I bit into it with a pronounced butter flavour. I will surely be making this recipe again! I wonder how this would taste with a portion of goat butter substituted?

The blogger…

Why baking? Well it is a strange mix of exact measurement and creative license. Foul the formula’s proportions and you have a lump of useless dough. Add your own blend of flours, herbs, and other goodies and you have a delicious and unique creation.

I purchased Peter Reinhart’s The Bread Baker’s Apprentice and plan to bake my way through it. Original? No. Fun? Well, we’ll see! I plan on baking once a week and will provide pictures along with my successes and my disasters!