Tag Archives: bread baking

Bread Baking Sources

I use several places for getting bread baking supplies;  some local, some online.  Here is  a list of places I go and what I find there!

Yeast:  my local Coop has active yeast – great price, always fresh

Sourdough starter:  If you’ve read my previous posts you know how it went!  I got my starter from King Arthur Flour.  They also carry Fiori de Sicilia.

General bread baking tools:  If you have a Sur la Table in your area, pay it a visit!  I’ve gotten some nice Silpat mats, brotforms, and bennetons from there.  It’s also where I get my panettone collars.

Here are a list of other online sites I use on a regular basis:

Breadtopia

San Francisco Baking Institute

Williams-Sonoma (overpriced but sometimes you pay for quality!)

I’d hate to say it, but don’t forget to check out Amazon.com for your baking needs.  Their prices are hard to beat!

Ciabatta

Originating from the Lake Como region of Italy, this high hydration bread’s characteristic porous texture is unmistakable.  When first out of the oven, the crust is hard and firm.  As it cools, it softens into a chewy flavorful delight.

For this recipe, I decided to make a striata (long thing baguette) and two slipper loaves.  The ingredients called for water, milk, or buttermilk.  I happened to have goat’s milk on hand at the time, so that’s what went in.  The striati was plain; no fuss no muss.  I had fun with the other two!  One contained shaved Grana Padano cheese and the other cremini mushroom dressed with black truffle oil.

Outcome?  Not as porous as I would have thought, but great crumb.  Next time, I will give it a bit of an extra proof before I bake it.  The cheese ciabatta had a mild taste with a tangy finish.  The cremini black truffle ciabatta was pungent with a distinct and aromatic note.  Dipped in EVOO they were delicious!

Panettone

A fruitcake by any other name is still a fruitcake.  I know, not many of us enjoy the taste or texture of candied fruit.  It has been a staple of European cakes and breads for centuries, and panettone isn’t an exception.  Originating in Milan as a Christmas bread, it has become popular all over the globe any time of year thanks to Italian immigrants during and after World War II.

I had been wanting to make this for almost a year.  My disastrous attempts at starting a seed culture took care of making it!  But alas, my barm is bubbly and pungent and now I can continue on my journey.

I followed the recipe fairly religiously except for one thing:  flavoring.  I have been using Fiori de Sicilia for some time now and very much enjoy the flavor.  Be warned:  it will take over any other flavorings in your recipe and is very overwhelming.  in an average recipe (say for a cake or dessert) I use only three or four drops.  It adds that certain something people just can’t put their finger on.

They turned out beautifully in their stiff paper collars.  Be careful not to over bake or else they will form a thick, tough crust.  This delight is best served with a warm beverage such as coffee or tea.

Vienna Bread

When thinking of countries that produce great bread, France and Italy are usually the two that come to mind.  Few would add Austria to that short list.  But Vienna has been a hub of artisan bread baking since the mid 19th century, and arguably, well before that as Peter Reinhart points out.

You will find many bakeries selling Vienna bread but unfortunately, it has the same makeup as their French and Italian bread.  The addition of fat (oil/shortening and egg) to the Vienna bread coats the starch making this crumb soft and supple, less open than its French or Italian cousins.  The lighter crust, though somewhat crunchy, has a great chew.  I would describe it as slightly “al dente.”  The recipe call for diastatic barley malt powder or barley malt syrup.  The powder can be found online at a couple baking sites but I managed to find the malt syrup at the local health food store for about $5.00.  It did lend a nice color to the crust!

For this recipe, I chose to make dinner rolls.  The dough was divided into 2 3/4 oz pieces, formed into boules, and proofed on a silpat-lined 1/2 sheet.  Before baking, I took scissors and made five consecutive cuts in the top of the rolls.  These made a great addition to a formal dinner and an even better sandwich bun for leftovers!

Pugliese

Apulia, or Pugliese in English, is the heel off the Italian boot.  It is the most productive agricultural plain in all of Italy.  And from these plains grows the durum wheat used to make traditional Pugliese.  It is a very wet dough, comparable to ciabatta, but slightly more dense.

This is not a quick bread to make.  The hour and a half of flouring and folding is time-consuming but without it, it just wouldn’t be Pugliese!  I used bread flour exclusively for this recipe as I didn’t have a close source for fancy durum wheat.  This bread showed me the necessity for being able to properly make a boule.  The softness of the dough makes it want to succumb to gravity more readily than a lesser hydrated dough.  I made one in a banneton and the other simply on a floured peel.  Interestingly, both turned out the same shape!  I baked one of the loaves a bit longer than the other giving it a marvelous deep caramel colour.  What I didn’t expect was the crackling that occurred when I took it out of the oven.  The crust began to fissure and made quite a pronounced snapping sound!  Note that these loaves do indeed soften as they cool.  The taste is a nutty soft texture with a chewy crunchy crust.  Viva Italia!

Seed Culture Disaster

Well I encountered my first setback in bread baking:  seed culture.  I had wanted to make the panettone recipe which requires barm; hence the seed culture.  I followed the steps as exactly as I could, and nothing.  All I got was a soupy stinky poolish that kept bubbling but never rose.  So after two weeks of hoping and praying that the barm would spring to life, alas, in the trash it went and back to square one I go!  This time I will take pics of each stage so that I have it better documented.  If this round doesn’t make it then I will order some and keep it going from that starter.  Any hints and tips are welcomed!

Stollen

When you search for stollen on the web, most sites will tell you it is a German “fruitcake” baked at Christmas time which originated in Dresden around the mid 15th century. First I would like to clarify that this is a sweet bread, not a cake. And though it may, yes I said may, contain candied fruit, it tastes nothing remotely like fruitcake. If anything, it is most closely related to the Italian panettone, also a sweet dough bread. As far as it only being baked during Advent or Christmas, phooey!

Any time an friend or honored guest arrives at a home in western Austrian and in Germany, stollen is served with a hot beverage (almost always coffee). The loaves, with their characteristic 1/3 fold and crust of powdered sugar are always a sign of hospitality. My two favorites are Mohnstollen, made with poppyseed and stollen made with a marzipan center. The poppyseed is not so popular with the American palette and in the States, the marzipan ones are difficult to find.

Back to the fruitcake thing…My very first encounter with stollen while living in Austria was at a friend’s mother’s home. It contained only raisins (soaked in apple schnapps!). It was a simple yet wonderfully tasty treat! I have had stollen made with candied fruit (Zitronat) and have enjoy that flavor as well. So this bread combines my two favorites kinds to make an Ur Stollen!

I used both golden and regular raisins in this recipe. For the maceration, I basically raided the liquor cabinet. I used apricot brandy, triple sec, and the rest of the bottle of limoncello (a scant quarter cup). They took a full 2 days to soak up the blend. The day before making the bread, I also made marzipan. Most grocers stock small tubes of marzipan in the baking section. My recommendation: make your own. It’s much tastier, makes more, and costs about the same. I used Marcona almonds in the recipe which added a unique flavor. Marzipan in Europe contains a larger percentage of almond meal; sometimes up to 75%. I made mine in the same manner.

The recipe makes a whopper of a loaf. I would suggest dividing the dough in two and make separate loaves. If you have a vacuum sealer, these can be frozen for up to 3 months. Simply thaw in the refrigerator overnight and dust lightly with a fresh coat of powdered sugar.

Couronne Bordelaise

This bread takes it name from the capital of the famed Aquitaine of France, Bordeaux.  Most noted for its deep red wines, Bordeaux is also one of the industrial capitals of France.  Much overlooked is this magnificent loaf, “The Crown of Bordeaux.”  Couronne means crown and Bordelaise is the name given to the citizens of Bordeaux.  Baguettes and boules are beautiful in their simplicity, while the epi and braided loaves are rhythmic.  The couronne bordelaise is the queen of French bread.  Its sting on pearls around the top and its harmonious round shape are a feast for the eyes.

There is some debate on the type of bread used to make the couronne.  Some insist on using pain de campagne, others claim plain white dough (a la baguette) should be used.  No doubt pain de campagne will give you a thicker crust and a longer shelf life.  In this recipe I used the baguette recipe.  Proofing is done in a special banneton which is about 12″ wide with a 5″ center.  I have not as of yet been able to source these banneton in the US.  They run about $80 plus the cost of shipping from France.  Too rich for my blood!!  So I rigged a banneton from a 12″ flat wicker basket, covered it with a cloth serviette dusted with rice flour, then place a serviette covered bowl in the center.  Worked like a charm!  I didn’t cook this one as dark as I normally would but to a medium golden brown.  The results were still outstanding.

French Bread

Considering France’s long and illustrious culinary history, I find it somewhat amusing that bread pops to mind immediately when we think of French cuisine.  Those who have been to France (or most any place in Europe) will surely recall the first encounter with its bread.  Crispy dark crust and an airy, almost nutty, inside.

I was excited to make this recipe for a couple reasons.  I had recently purchased an 8″ round banneton from Frieling and a 24″ x 20″ linen couche.  I liberally seasoned it with flour, shook it out, the floured in again.  Since I doubled the baguette recipe, the first batch used 1/2 (about 1 lb) of dough for the baguette and the other half for the banneton.  The second batch went into the banneton and made a very large loaf.  The banneton I bought because of its rustic look and ease in use; the couche because I felt I need a bit of a hand with shaping my baguettes.  I am happy to say that both work as hoped!  However (and there’s always a “but”), I wouldn’t waste the money on buying a couche from a cooking store.  Save the money and go to the fabric store and get some heavy linen.  If you’re good with the sewing machine, make a hem; if not, don’t worry.  To season the couche, rub the flour into the fabric.  You’ll be surprised at how much flour the cloth will soak up.  And also, don’t use non-stick spray on it; and finally, don’t wash it!  I found that the couche gave an added element to the shape of the baguette.  When I do this recipe again, I plan on giving the dough a slightly shorter ferment, then scale and shape, then a longer proofing period.  I didn’t get the larger holes in the bread that I wanted.  It was still quite tasty.  Thanks to my friend Michael, instead of slashing the top of the baguette, scissors were used to make the pattern on top.

French Country Bread – Pain de Campagne

I found this recipe attractive for two reasons:  first, because it used a portion of whole grain flour and second, because it could be shaped easily.  As a child, my grandfather used to bring back epi loaves from a bakery in Miami.  I remember being fascinated by the pointy rolls all stuck together.  30 years later, I’m still fascinated by all those pointed rolls stuck together!  It is a very visually pleasing shape and one not readily found.

As far as the dough goes, I was glad to see that it was more manageable than the pain a l’ancienne.  It has umpf!  This made it much easier to shape than any of the other recipes I’ve tried so far.  Admittedly, the smaller loaves did not turn out as expected.  The braided loaf seemed to melt all together and the round couronne, well, wasn’t a crowning achievement.  So I cheated!  Since I didn’t press down hard enough with the dowel or use enough flour, the creases never stayed separated.  So, just before baking, I made cuts with a serrated knife.  Not the look that was intended, but it worked out in the end.