Tag Archives: breakfast ideas

Panettone

A fruitcake by any other name is still a fruitcake.  I know, not many of us enjoy the taste or texture of candied fruit.  It has been a staple of European cakes and breads for centuries, and panettone isn’t an exception.  Originating in Milan as a Christmas bread, it has become popular all over the globe any time of year thanks to Italian immigrants during and after World War II.

I had been wanting to make this for almost a year.  My disastrous attempts at starting a seed culture took care of making it!  But alas, my barm is bubbly and pungent and now I can continue on my journey.

I followed the recipe fairly religiously except for one thing:  flavoring.  I have been using Fiori de Sicilia for some time now and very much enjoy the flavor.  Be warned:  it will take over any other flavorings in your recipe and is very overwhelming.  in an average recipe (say for a cake or dessert) I use only three or four drops.  It adds that certain something people just can’t put their finger on.

They turned out beautifully in their stiff paper collars.  Be careful not to over bake or else they will form a thick, tough crust.  This delight is best served with a warm beverage such as coffee or tea.

Stollen

When you search for stollen on the web, most sites will tell you it is a German “fruitcake” baked at Christmas time which originated in Dresden around the mid 15th century. First I would like to clarify that this is a sweet bread, not a cake. And though it may, yes I said may, contain candied fruit, it tastes nothing remotely like fruitcake. If anything, it is most closely related to the Italian panettone, also a sweet dough bread. As far as it only being baked during Advent or Christmas, phooey!

Any time an friend or honored guest arrives at a home in western Austrian and in Germany, stollen is served with a hot beverage (almost always coffee). The loaves, with their characteristic 1/3 fold and crust of powdered sugar are always a sign of hospitality. My two favorites are Mohnstollen, made with poppyseed and stollen made with a marzipan center. The poppyseed is not so popular with the American palette and in the States, the marzipan ones are difficult to find.

Back to the fruitcake thing…My very first encounter with stollen while living in Austria was at a friend’s mother’s home. It contained only raisins (soaked in apple schnapps!). It was a simple yet wonderfully tasty treat! I have had stollen made with candied fruit (Zitronat) and have enjoy that flavor as well. So this bread combines my two favorites kinds to make an Ur Stollen!

I used both golden and regular raisins in this recipe. For the maceration, I basically raided the liquor cabinet. I used apricot brandy, triple sec, and the rest of the bottle of limoncello (a scant quarter cup). They took a full 2 days to soak up the blend. The day before making the bread, I also made marzipan. Most grocers stock small tubes of marzipan in the baking section. My recommendation: make your own. It’s much tastier, makes more, and costs about the same. I used Marcona almonds in the recipe which added a unique flavor. Marzipan in Europe contains a larger percentage of almond meal; sometimes up to 75%. I made mine in the same manner.

The recipe makes a whopper of a loaf. I would suggest dividing the dough in two and make separate loaves. If you have a vacuum sealer, these can be frozen for up to 3 months. Simply thaw in the refrigerator overnight and dust lightly with a fresh coat of powdered sugar.

Brioche Revisited…

I must admit, I fell in love with this bread.  Since New Year’s Eve dinner included filet mignon I thought I’s take it up a notch and make boeuf en brioche.  Since the Middle Class brioche was a bit soft, I used the Poor Man’s brioche recipe.  The dough was much closer to a traditional bread dough in terms of its consistency and handling.  The fact that this recipe could be done in a few short hours was attractive.  After an hour’s ferment, I divided the dough into 6 pieces and rolled them into 8″ circles.  I placed 1/2 oz of fois gras in the centre of the dough, placed the seared filet (about a minute and a half on each side) on top and carefully wrapped it.  Gave it an hour’s proof and slipped it into a 400 degree oven.  The recipe said 25-30 minutes but they started to become well browned at the 12 minute mark so I covered them with foil.  They came out nearly the size of softballs!  Next time I will roll the dough out a bit more thin.  And I’m sorry to say that I was not able to photograph them since my dinner guests devoured them before the thought occurred to me!

The next morning I took out the loaf of the Middle Class brioche which I had frozen, sliced it into 1/2 inch pieces and made French Toast.  If you’ve never had French Toast using brioche, you’re missing out!!  It’s a little slice of heaven!