Tag Archives: hearth baking

Bread Baking Sources

I use several places for getting bread baking supplies;  some local, some online.  Here is  a list of places I go and what I find there!

Yeast:  my local Coop has active yeast – great price, always fresh

Sourdough starter:  If you’ve read my previous posts you know how it went!  I got my starter from King Arthur Flour.  They also carry Fiori de Sicilia.

General bread baking tools:  If you have a Sur la Table in your area, pay it a visit!  I’ve gotten some nice Silpat mats, brotforms, and bennetons from there.  It’s also where I get my panettone collars.

Here are a list of other online sites I use on a regular basis:

Breadtopia

San Francisco Baking Institute

Williams-Sonoma (overpriced but sometimes you pay for quality!)

I’d hate to say it, but don’t forget to check out Amazon.com for your baking needs.  Their prices are hard to beat!

Ciabatta

Originating from the Lake Como region of Italy, this high hydration bread’s characteristic porous texture is unmistakable.  When first out of the oven, the crust is hard and firm.  As it cools, it softens into a chewy flavorful delight.

For this recipe, I decided to make a striata (long thing baguette) and two slipper loaves.  The ingredients called for water, milk, or buttermilk.  I happened to have goat’s milk on hand at the time, so that’s what went in.  The striati was plain; no fuss no muss.  I had fun with the other two!  One contained shaved Grana Padano cheese and the other cremini mushroom dressed with black truffle oil.

Outcome?  Not as porous as I would have thought, but great crumb.  Next time, I will give it a bit of an extra proof before I bake it.  The cheese ciabatta had a mild taste with a tangy finish.  The cremini black truffle ciabatta was pungent with a distinct and aromatic note.  Dipped in EVOO they were delicious!

Vienna Bread

When thinking of countries that produce great bread, France and Italy are usually the two that come to mind.  Few would add Austria to that short list.  But Vienna has been a hub of artisan bread baking since the mid 19th century, and arguably, well before that as Peter Reinhart points out.

You will find many bakeries selling Vienna bread but unfortunately, it has the same makeup as their French and Italian bread.  The addition of fat (oil/shortening and egg) to the Vienna bread coats the starch making this crumb soft and supple, less open than its French or Italian cousins.  The lighter crust, though somewhat crunchy, has a great chew.  I would describe it as slightly “al dente.”  The recipe call for diastatic barley malt powder or barley malt syrup.  The powder can be found online at a couple baking sites but I managed to find the malt syrup at the local health food store for about $5.00.  It did lend a nice color to the crust!

For this recipe, I chose to make dinner rolls.  The dough was divided into 2 3/4 oz pieces, formed into boules, and proofed on a silpat-lined 1/2 sheet.  Before baking, I took scissors and made five consecutive cuts in the top of the rolls.  These made a great addition to a formal dinner and an even better sandwich bun for leftovers!

Challah

Challah (or Egg Bread as it’s known in the Midwest) is one of the most attractive loaves of bread one can make.  It’s yellowy soft interior and deep brown braided exterior is a feast for the eyes and taste buds.  This was a nice recipe because I had limited time and wanted to bake something celebratory.  It was not as rich as other Challah loaves I have made in the past, but the flavour was just as good.  I decided to make the double-decker loaf.  I did not situate the top braid on centre so as it proofed, the top braid started listing starboard!  The spring made it worse, but it still looked impressive.  The crumb was soft and slightly sweet and the egg wash provide a bit of a chew to the crust.  The best part?  Leftovers make the yummy french toast!

Challah, celebration style

 

Seed Culture Disaster

Well I encountered my first setback in bread baking:  seed culture.  I had wanted to make the panettone recipe which requires barm; hence the seed culture.  I followed the steps as exactly as I could, and nothing.  All I got was a soupy stinky poolish that kept bubbling but never rose.  So after two weeks of hoping and praying that the barm would spring to life, alas, in the trash it went and back to square one I go!  This time I will take pics of each stage so that I have it better documented.  If this round doesn’t make it then I will order some and keep it going from that starter.  Any hints and tips are welcomed!

Couronne Bordelaise

This bread takes it name from the capital of the famed Aquitaine of France, Bordeaux.  Most noted for its deep red wines, Bordeaux is also one of the industrial capitals of France.  Much overlooked is this magnificent loaf, “The Crown of Bordeaux.”  Couronne means crown and Bordelaise is the name given to the citizens of Bordeaux.  Baguettes and boules are beautiful in their simplicity, while the epi and braided loaves are rhythmic.  The couronne bordelaise is the queen of French bread.  Its sting on pearls around the top and its harmonious round shape are a feast for the eyes.

There is some debate on the type of bread used to make the couronne.  Some insist on using pain de campagne, others claim plain white dough (a la baguette) should be used.  No doubt pain de campagne will give you a thicker crust and a longer shelf life.  In this recipe I used the baguette recipe.  Proofing is done in a special banneton which is about 12″ wide with a 5″ center.  I have not as of yet been able to source these banneton in the US.  They run about $80 plus the cost of shipping from France.  Too rich for my blood!!  So I rigged a banneton from a 12″ flat wicker basket, covered it with a cloth serviette dusted with rice flour, then place a serviette covered bowl in the center.  Worked like a charm!  I didn’t cook this one as dark as I normally would but to a medium golden brown.  The results were still outstanding.

Home Hearth Baking

One of the greatest drawbacks to home bread baking is the fact that most conventional ovens can’t reach temperatures hot enough for ideal artisan bread baking.  My ovens only allow a temp of 550.  Most professional bakeries, especially those with wood fired ovens reach a minimum of 800 degress with 1,000 not unheard of.  Besides the high temperatures, inventions like steam injected ovens have transformed professional break baking.  The bright side?  Now manufacturers of home ovens are beginning to make efforts to provide foodies with semi-professinoal equipment.

So how can you hearth bake at home?  It’s actually quite easy.  There are a few dynamics at work here.  Before you even start to preheat your oven check the shelving.  Here are a few tips…Make sure your racks are in the proper position.  If you can fit all your loaves/buns/etc. on one shelf, place the shelf in the middle slot.  If you are using two shelves, you will probably need to switch shelves half way through to ensure even baking and the best color.

Using a quality oven stone (most commonly known as a pizza stone) makes for a great outcome.  Once the stone comes to temperature, it retains its heat rather well.  It is important not to place a cold stone in a hot oven as it will result in fractures and or cracking.  Always place your stone in the oven before you preheat it.  Make sure the stone is at leat 1.5″ from the oven walls.  If you use two stones like I do, place one to the right and one to the left.  This allows for air circulation on the sides and through the center.  You can also stack two stones close to each other  if you’re baking on only one stone, the bottom one (see picture below).  Stacking like this ensures a very even bake.  Allow plenty of time for your preheat.  The stones will require additional time to come to temperature.  Be prepared to spend about $80 for a quality stone.  With proper care it will last for many years.

Preheating your oven to a temperature of 25-50 degrees higher than the suggested baking temp allows for heat loss when the oven doors are open.  The swing in temp can mean the difference between an OK crust and an artisan crust.  Make sure you lower the temperature after loading the ovens.

If you have a steam injected oven, lucky you.  It’s a wonderful thing.  If not, cheat!  Place a small pan in the bottom of your oven during the preheat.  I use an old brownie pan.  It should be away from the stone so as to allow the steam to rise freely.  Please be careful not to spill on your oven’s glass.  Cold water and 500 degree glass can be a recipe for disaster.  You don’t want to crack your glass!  The same applies to the stone.  If you use a spray container, spray the oven walls, not the stone or oven glass.

Here are a couple of link for sourcing quality baking stones:

Forno Bravo

Breadtopia

French Bread

Considering France’s long and illustrious culinary history, I find it somewhat amusing that bread pops to mind immediately when we think of French cuisine.  Those who have been to France (or most any place in Europe) will surely recall the first encounter with its bread.  Crispy dark crust and an airy, almost nutty, inside.

I was excited to make this recipe for a couple reasons.  I had recently purchased an 8″ round banneton from Frieling and a 24″ x 20″ linen couche.  I liberally seasoned it with flour, shook it out, the floured in again.  Since I doubled the baguette recipe, the first batch used 1/2 (about 1 lb) of dough for the baguette and the other half for the banneton.  The second batch went into the banneton and made a very large loaf.  The banneton I bought because of its rustic look and ease in use; the couche because I felt I need a bit of a hand with shaping my baguettes.  I am happy to say that both work as hoped!  However (and there’s always a “but”), I wouldn’t waste the money on buying a couche from a cooking store.  Save the money and go to the fabric store and get some heavy linen.  If you’re good with the sewing machine, make a hem; if not, don’t worry.  To season the couche, rub the flour into the fabric.  You’ll be surprised at how much flour the cloth will soak up.  And also, don’t use non-stick spray on it; and finally, don’t wash it!  I found that the couche gave an added element to the shape of the baguette.  When I do this recipe again, I plan on giving the dough a slightly shorter ferment, then scale and shape, then a longer proofing period.  I didn’t get the larger holes in the bread that I wanted.  It was still quite tasty.  Thanks to my friend Michael, instead of slashing the top of the baguette, scissors were used to make the pattern on top.

French Country Bread – Pain de Campagne

I found this recipe attractive for two reasons:  first, because it used a portion of whole grain flour and second, because it could be shaped easily.  As a child, my grandfather used to bring back epi loaves from a bakery in Miami.  I remember being fascinated by the pointy rolls all stuck together.  30 years later, I’m still fascinated by all those pointed rolls stuck together!  It is a very visually pleasing shape and one not readily found.

As far as the dough goes, I was glad to see that it was more manageable than the pain a l’ancienne.  It has umpf!  This made it much easier to shape than any of the other recipes I’ve tried so far.  Admittedly, the smaller loaves did not turn out as expected.  The braided loaf seemed to melt all together and the round couronne, well, wasn’t a crowning achievement.  So I cheated!  Since I didn’t press down hard enough with the dowel or use enough flour, the creases never stayed separated.  So, just before baking, I made cuts with a serrated knife.  Not the look that was intended, but it worked out in the end.

You say focaccia, I say fougasse

This is probably one of the world’s best known and oldest breads with its hallmark dimples and flat oval shape.  The name comes from the Latin words panis focacius meaning bread from the center (hearth).  It is understandable why this bread is so named since the hearth was the center of the Roman home; and for that matter homes throughout most of human history.  It actually predates the Romans having been well documented  in Greed and Etruscan society as far back as 700 BC.  Most gastronomic historians agree that this is the forerunner of modern-day pizza.  Even today focaccia is often made with cheese and various toppings such as cured meats, olives and cheeses.  A sweeter versions is made with dried or candied fruits and sprinkled with sugar.

This is also a great example of how food travels.  The Ligurian province of Italy (in Tuscany it is made without salt and called schiacciata) lies in the upper west of the country bordering France.  In Provence and the Languedoc, this bread is known as fogassa.  The farther away from Italy it travels, the more French becomes the name. In Burgundy it is known as foisee or fouaisse while in greater France you can find it by the name fougasse.  And down the Iberian peninsula in  Spain, they know it as hogaza.