Tag Archives: Liguria

You say focaccia, I say fougasse

This is probably one of the world’s best known and oldest breads with its hallmark dimples and flat oval shape.  The name comes from the Latin words panis focacius meaning bread from the center (hearth).  It is understandable why this bread is so named since the hearth was the center of the Roman home; and for that matter homes throughout most of human history.  It actually predates the Romans having been well documented  in Greed and Etruscan society as far back as 700 BC.  Most gastronomic historians agree that this is the forerunner of modern-day pizza.  Even today focaccia is often made with cheese and various toppings such as cured meats, olives and cheeses.  A sweeter versions is made with dried or candied fruits and sprinkled with sugar.

This is also a great example of how food travels.  The Ligurian province of Italy (in Tuscany it is made without salt and called schiacciata) lies in the upper west of the country bordering France.  In Provence and the Languedoc, this bread is known as fogassa.  The farther away from Italy it travels, the more French becomes the name. In Burgundy it is known as foisee or fouaisse while in greater France you can find it by the name fougasse.  And down the Iberian peninsula in  Spain, they know it as hogaza.

Focaccia

Where do I start?!?  This was truly a labour of love.  First let’s talk abut the poolish.  Poolish, by the way, is the type of starter used in this recipe.  It was named for the Polish immigrants who brought this pre-ferment to France in the mid nineteenth century. This was made the previous day.  So two things that I didn’t like about this recipe:  1) the time it took to make, and 2) the size of the loaf it made.

It took me the better part of the afternoon to make this recipe.  The dough was difficult to handle due to the high ratio of water.  It was sticky and viscous.  The most annoying part of the process was the hour and half of folding before the hour rest, then the makeup followed by a two hour proof.  Whew!  For the topping I used some tepenade I had made a few days ago though I’m sure whole olives would have made for a better presentation.

As for the size…holy buckets, it’s HUGE!  It filled the entire pan and rose about 2 1/2 inches; slightly unwieldy and unless cut before serving, would fill your table.  I would suggest making it in two pans.

All said and done, the texture was like silk with large holes and a distinctive taste contributed by the poolish.  Simply delicious but I wonder if it would have been so delicious if it took me 3 hrs instead of 8!  Don’t worry, I’ll make it again.