Couronne Bordelaise

This bread takes it name from the capital of the famed Aquitaine of France, Bordeaux.  Most noted for its deep red wines, Bordeaux is also one of the industrial capitals of France.  Much overlooked is this magnificent loaf, “The Crown of Bordeaux.”  Couronne means crown and Bordelaise is the name given to the citizens of Bordeaux.  Baguettes and boules are beautiful in their simplicity, while the epi and braided loaves are rhythmic.  The couronne bordelaise is the queen of French bread.  Its sting on pearls around the top and its harmonious round shape are a feast for the eyes.

There is some debate on the type of bread used to make the couronne.  Some insist on using pain de campagne, others claim plain white dough (a la baguette) should be used.  No doubt pain de campagne will give you a thicker crust and a longer shelf life.  In this recipe I used the baguette recipe.  Proofing is done in a special banneton which is about 12″ wide with a 5″ center.  I have not as of yet been able to source these banneton in the US.  They run about $80 plus the cost of shipping from France.  Too rich for my blood!!  So I rigged a banneton from a 12″ flat wicker basket, covered it with a cloth serviette dusted with rice flour, then place a serviette covered bowl in the center.  Worked like a charm!  I didn’t cook this one as dark as I normally would but to a medium golden brown.  The results were still outstanding.

Home Hearth Baking

One of the greatest drawbacks to home bread baking is the fact that most conventional ovens can’t reach temperatures hot enough for ideal artisan bread baking.  My ovens only allow a temp of 550.  Most professional bakeries, especially those with wood fired ovens reach a minimum of 800 degress with 1,000 not unheard of.  Besides the high temperatures, inventions like steam injected ovens have transformed professional break baking.  The bright side?  Now manufacturers of home ovens are beginning to make efforts to provide foodies with semi-professinoal equipment.

So how can you hearth bake at home?  It’s actually quite easy.  There are a few dynamics at work here.  Before you even start to preheat your oven check the shelving.  Here are a few tips…Make sure your racks are in the proper position.  If you can fit all your loaves/buns/etc. on one shelf, place the shelf in the middle slot.  If you are using two shelves, you will probably need to switch shelves half way through to ensure even baking and the best color.

Using a quality oven stone (most commonly known as a pizza stone) makes for a great outcome.  Once the stone comes to temperature, it retains its heat rather well.  It is important not to place a cold stone in a hot oven as it will result in fractures and or cracking.  Always place your stone in the oven before you preheat it.  Make sure the stone is at leat 1.5″ from the oven walls.  If you use two stones like I do, place one to the right and one to the left.  This allows for air circulation on the sides and through the center.  You can also stack two stones close to each other  if you’re baking on only one stone, the bottom one (see picture below).  Stacking like this ensures a very even bake.  Allow plenty of time for your preheat.  The stones will require additional time to come to temperature.  Be prepared to spend about $80 for a quality stone.  With proper care it will last for many years.

Preheating your oven to a temperature of 25-50 degrees higher than the suggested baking temp allows for heat loss when the oven doors are open.  The swing in temp can mean the difference between an OK crust and an artisan crust.  Make sure you lower the temperature after loading the ovens.

If you have a steam injected oven, lucky you.  It’s a wonderful thing.  If not, cheat!  Place a small pan in the bottom of your oven during the preheat.  I use an old brownie pan.  It should be away from the stone so as to allow the steam to rise freely.  Please be careful not to spill on your oven’s glass.  Cold water and 500 degree glass can be a recipe for disaster.  You don’t want to crack your glass!  The same applies to the stone.  If you use a spray container, spray the oven walls, not the stone or oven glass.

Here are a couple of link for sourcing quality baking stones:

Forno Bravo

Breadtopia

French Bread

Considering France’s long and illustrious culinary history, I find it somewhat amusing that bread pops to mind immediately when we think of French cuisine.  Those who have been to France (or most any place in Europe) will surely recall the first encounter with its bread.  Crispy dark crust and an airy, almost nutty, inside.

I was excited to make this recipe for a couple reasons.  I had recently purchased an 8″ round banneton from Frieling and a 24″ x 20″ linen couche.  I liberally seasoned it with flour, shook it out, the floured in again.  Since I doubled the baguette recipe, the first batch used 1/2 (about 1 lb) of dough for the baguette and the other half for the banneton.  The second batch went into the banneton and made a very large loaf.  The banneton I bought because of its rustic look and ease in use; the couche because I felt I need a bit of a hand with shaping my baguettes.  I am happy to say that both work as hoped!  However (and there’s always a “but”), I wouldn’t waste the money on buying a couche from a cooking store.  Save the money and go to the fabric store and get some heavy linen.  If you’re good with the sewing machine, make a hem; if not, don’t worry.  To season the couche, rub the flour into the fabric.  You’ll be surprised at how much flour the cloth will soak up.  And also, don’t use non-stick spray on it; and finally, don’t wash it!  I found that the couche gave an added element to the shape of the baguette.  When I do this recipe again, I plan on giving the dough a slightly shorter ferment, then scale and shape, then a longer proofing period.  I didn’t get the larger holes in the bread that I wanted.  It was still quite tasty.  Thanks to my friend Michael, instead of slashing the top of the baguette, scissors were used to make the pattern on top.

French Country Bread – Pain de Campagne

I found this recipe attractive for two reasons:  first, because it used a portion of whole grain flour and second, because it could be shaped easily.  As a child, my grandfather used to bring back epi loaves from a bakery in Miami.  I remember being fascinated by the pointy rolls all stuck together.  30 years later, I’m still fascinated by all those pointed rolls stuck together!  It is a very visually pleasing shape and one not readily found.

As far as the dough goes, I was glad to see that it was more manageable than the pain a l’ancienne.  It has umpf!  This made it much easier to shape than any of the other recipes I’ve tried so far.  Admittedly, the smaller loaves did not turn out as expected.  The braided loaf seemed to melt all together and the round couronne, well, wasn’t a crowning achievement.  So I cheated!  Since I didn’t press down hard enough with the dowel or use enough flour, the creases never stayed separated.  So, just before baking, I made cuts with a serrated knife.  Not the look that was intended, but it worked out in the end.

You say focaccia, I say fougasse

This is probably one of the world’s best known and oldest breads with its hallmark dimples and flat oval shape.  The name comes from the Latin words panis focacius meaning bread from the center (hearth).  It is understandable why this bread is so named since the hearth was the center of the Roman home; and for that matter homes throughout most of human history.  It actually predates the Romans having been well documented  in Greed and Etruscan society as far back as 700 BC.  Most gastronomic historians agree that this is the forerunner of modern-day pizza.  Even today focaccia is often made with cheese and various toppings such as cured meats, olives and cheeses.  A sweeter versions is made with dried or candied fruits and sprinkled with sugar.

This is also a great example of how food travels.  The Ligurian province of Italy (in Tuscany it is made without salt and called schiacciata) lies in the upper west of the country bordering France.  In Provence and the Languedoc, this bread is known as fogassa.  The farther away from Italy it travels, the more French becomes the name. In Burgundy it is known as foisee or fouaisse while in greater France you can find it by the name fougasse.  And down the Iberian peninsula in  Spain, they know it as hogaza.

Focaccia

Where do I start?!?  This was truly a labour of love.  First let’s talk abut the poolish.  Poolish, by the way, is the type of starter used in this recipe.  It was named for the Polish immigrants who brought this pre-ferment to France in the mid nineteenth century. This was made the previous day.  So two things that I didn’t like about this recipe:  1) the time it took to make, and 2) the size of the loaf it made.

It took me the better part of the afternoon to make this recipe.  The dough was difficult to handle due to the high ratio of water.  It was sticky and viscous.  The most annoying part of the process was the hour and half of folding before the hour rest, then the makeup followed by a two hour proof.  Whew!  For the topping I used some tepenade I had made a few days ago though I’m sure whole olives would have made for a better presentation.

As for the size…holy buckets, it’s HUGE!  It filled the entire pan and rose about 2 1/2 inches; slightly unwieldy and unless cut before serving, would fill your table.  I would suggest making it in two pans.

All said and done, the texture was like silk with large holes and a distinctive taste contributed by the poolish.  Simply delicious but I wonder if it would have been so delicious if it took me 3 hrs instead of 8!  Don’t worry, I’ll make it again.

Pain a l’Ancienne

This rustic French bread is a delight for the taste buds. If you’ve ever doubted the reason to manipulate time in a bread recipe, this will change your mind. For this recipe, I baked it “European style” with the dark golden brown crust (versus the American style which is much lighter). Also, preparing your oven for hearth baking with the addition of steam is critical to the success of this recipe. I will post more on hearth baking in the near future.

Pain a l'anceinne

Brioche Revisited…

I must admit, I fell in love with this bread.  Since New Year’s Eve dinner included filet mignon I thought I’s take it up a notch and make boeuf en brioche.  Since the Middle Class brioche was a bit soft, I used the Poor Man’s brioche recipe.  The dough was much closer to a traditional bread dough in terms of its consistency and handling.  The fact that this recipe could be done in a few short hours was attractive.  After an hour’s ferment, I divided the dough into 6 pieces and rolled them into 8″ circles.  I placed 1/2 oz of fois gras in the centre of the dough, placed the seared filet (about a minute and a half on each side) on top and carefully wrapped it.  Gave it an hour’s proof and slipped it into a 400 degree oven.  The recipe said 25-30 minutes but they started to become well browned at the 12 minute mark so I covered them with foil.  They came out nearly the size of softballs!  Next time I will roll the dough out a bit more thin.  And I’m sorry to say that I was not able to photograph them since my dinner guests devoured them before the thought occurred to me!

The next morning I took out the loaf of the Middle Class brioche which I had frozen, sliced it into 1/2 inch pieces and made French Toast.  If you’ve never had French Toast using brioche, you’re missing out!!  It’s a little slice of heaven!

Brioche

Brioche is the Queen of all breads. Whether it’s poor man’s or rich man’s brioche, biting into a slice will cause your taste buds to dance! I choose the middle recipe for this venture. I was too chicken to attempt the rich man’s recipe and the poor man’s one sounded so terribly pedestrian. So I chose the middle road. Though it is suggested by Peter Reinhart that the dough retard (be placed in the fridge) overnight, I made it the same day chilling the dough for almost 6 hours. It was quite firm and not as easy to work with as I would have thought. I made 11 brioches a tete (since I can’t find my 12th brioche tin!!) and 1 loaf. Next time I will make the little ball on top with less of a “neck” as I don’t think I rolled it out thin enough. The loaf took much longer to proof, about 3 hours. I suppose this is due to the fact that the dough retains the cold much longer due to its volume.

To echo the author’s sentiments, this is THE definitive bread to make french toast (and if you dare, the nest for an awesome Eggs Benedict). The texture reminded me of powdered sugar; just melted when I bit into it with a pronounced butter flavour. I will surely be making this recipe again! I wonder how this would taste with a portion of goat butter substituted?

Rosemary Potato Bread

Ok, so I cheated and made this bread a few weeks ago. It turned out much better then. For make up, I did the boule with the cross on top as in the Greek Celebration Bread on pg. 114. I admit, I have a hard time shaping the boule. It seems I get more side to side spread than upward rising, though the spring when baking does make up for some of the lack of rise. I guess I’m not getting enough surface tension when shaping.

I froze the biga and had enough to make two recipes (Peter Reinhart uses three types of pre-ferments, sometimes call starters for his breads – the biga is the Italian version). I placed the biga in the refrigerator overnight to let it thaw slowly and then set it out for an hour to come to room temperature. The first batch I made with barely a half teaspoon of rosemary as it is a heavily oiled herb and can easily overwhelm any dish. Since my sister-in-law in highly allergic to rosemary, I used dried thyme from the garden in this recipe; about a teaspoon. To add something different I took a small white onion and cut thin slivers to place in the empty spaces.

For some reason, this time it took forever to get any color on the bread. It’s much more pale in colour than last time.

It was a hit a few weeks ago and I hope a hit tomorrow!