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Between Two Rivers

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  • At the Family Table

    Dinner (takeout) in Madrid: biang biang noodles.

    I’ve had a lot on my mind over these past few days in Madrid (and back in Europe). My family and I have truly enjoyed spending time together walking the city and marveling at its urban landscape. In particular, we’ve been especially impressed by its wealth of art and food, and by the striking contrast between its fast-paced traffic and slower-paced rhythms of life. For my part, I’ve been inspired to learn Spanish again—not just because I’d given it up after high school, but also because there’s a wealth of poetry and fiction I’m desperately trying to catch up on.

    There’s much that I want to write about these aspects, however rough my ideas and language about them may still be. But over the course of the past few evenings and mornings, I’ve been drawn to something far closer to home: our family meals, and the colorful conversations—in English, Cantonese, and Mandarin—that animate them. Beyond filling my life with laughter, wisdom, and excellent food, our meals have helped me understand the pleasures and challenges of navigating the richness of the world: one whose vibrancy seems to demand even more color from my ever-expanding palette (or, if you prefer, pallet).

    (more…)
    May 15, 2024
    art, China, community, conversation, family, food, gratitude, immigration, Madrid, Spain, travel

  • Grand Central

    Max Weber, Grand Central Terminal (1915). Oil on canvas. At the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid.
    city breathing
    grates venting
    steam rising
    stocks
    falling
    (no, not yet)

    echoes of schoolchildren ringing through the halls

    hooooonnnnkkk at park

    meets beeeeeeeep at 41st

    crumpledcr
    inkledball
    ofalumi
    numfoilfro
    mahotdo
    gcart
    (more…)
    May 14, 2024
    abstract expressionism, art, Grand Central, Madrid, Max Weber, museum, New York, nostalgia, Painting, Poetry

  • A Vision at the Prado

    About suffering they were never wrong,

    the Old Masters…

    —W. H. Auden, “Musée des Beaux Arts”



    What language there is to express the ful-
    ness of color and light and stroke is lost
    on my lips. All I can do is circle
    the cavernous halls where schoolchildren coast
    past paintings we can’t fully understand,
    past masses of tourists looking wayward
    as microphoned interpreters expound
    on the merits of a treasured work.
    (more…)
    May 14, 2024
    art, Brueghel the Elder, death, Madrid, Painting, Poetry, Prado, vision

  • The Imperial City

    Statue of King Charles III of Spain (r. 1759-88) at the Puerta del Sol, Madrid.

    The imperial city, believing itself to be the center of a flat world, has no need for compasses or regular street grids.

    Born at the crossroads of national myth and natural earth, it lurches in all directions like a lethargic lion, answering only to the orders of the sun (from which it derives its sense of time) and the promise of fresh prey from afar (from which it derives its sense of space).

    (more…)
    May 13, 2024
    city, empire, Hong Kong, imperialism, Madrid, memory, names, New York, Paris, urban landscape, Vienna

  • Field Notes: Madrid (II)

    White for the Madridistas cheering in unison for another Liga title.

    Pink for the T-shirts of the women walking for a Mother’s Day charity walk.

    White and pink for slices of Iberico ham layered on top of sourdough bread.

    (more…)
    May 12, 2024
    family, Madrid, pink, urban landscape, white

  • Field Notes: Madrid (I)

    Maybe it’s the jet lag, or the dry heat (82 degrees Fahrenheit, 28 degrees Celsius), or the fact that we’re aimlessly wandering the city, but my sister Flo and I are finding it hard to figure out what other city Madrid—or more precisely, the cozy and quirky neighborhood of Malesaña—most resembles. Maybe it’s Bilbao, the first and closest Spanish city I visited back in December, and one of my most beloved places to tour. Or maybe it’s Saint-Gilles in Brussels, in the way the leafy, narrow streets snake up and down unpredictable slopes at sharp angles. Or maybe it’s La Brera in Milan, with every aging building concealing a fashionable boutique, a humble alimentación, or a chic cafe deep behind its facade. Or maybe it’s Jackson Heights in Queens, the bustling micropolis in the larger New York ecosystem where every Hispanophone and Latin American country plants its flag in the form of a restaurant or bodega.

    (more…)
    May 11, 2024
    culture, Europe, Madrid, re-entry, Spain, travel, urban landscape

  • Newark Airport

    I am here once again, have been here so many times
    that the airport terminals are less the names
    of portals than of chronic, unidentified diseases.

    Terminal A, Terminal B, Terminal C: illnesses
    (or rather conditions) I've contracted on and off
    from years of hopping on and taking off.
    (more…)
    May 10, 2024
    airport, departure, journey, Newark, Poetry, travel

  • Between the Lines

    I.
    I wasn't prepared for any of it, at all. Three weeks
    to move three years and three months of possessions
    three thousand and twice three hundred miles back 'home,'
    wherever that was supposed to be. Three weeks of idle, quiet
    calm concealing misplaced hope for a golden ticket that could
    have prolonged my stay. April afternoons preoccupied with the

    calendar, counting down diminishing time left to share
    with closest friends. April nights of North Sea rain lashing
    the windowpanes with mahjong memories. April weekends
    of solitary walks, circling familiar places just to keep the city
    alive, somehow, should I ever forget one day that I was here,
    that I loved it all, that all of it was and is and will stay true.
    (more…)
    May 10, 2024
    America, Belgium, home, homecoming, language, memory, New Jersey, Poetry, re-entry

  • The City

    The Lower Manhattan skyline as seen from Hoboken, NJ.

    For Mom and Dad, and for the city we love best.

    How do you—how does anyone—come to know New York, let alone write about it?

    I’d never asked myself this question until now, if only because I never felt I had to. Even as a native of “the city”—which, for the uninitiated, always refers to New York when uttered from anywhere within a roughly seventy-five-mile radius from the Empire State Building—I wouldn’t even know where to start. In fact, as someone who’s long spent most of his life in New Jersey, the state next door, I’ve inevitably lost much of the local ‘expertise’ that New Yorkers unabashedly pride themselves on.

    For these reasons and others, I’d much prefer to leave the task of explaining the city to others who, “native” or not, have done it far more adroitly than I ever could. (One of the most compelling of these has only recently left our lives, and all too soon.) What I do want to understand more clearly, meanwhile, is the indispensable role that the city plays in my life story: not just in my earliest years or newfound present, but also in the ways I learned to navigate life in Ghent (a city which, for the record, I’d never confuse with New York despite its magical charms; even Brussels, for all its international character, sprawling beauty, and similar precarity, inevitably falls short). And that role, I’ve also come to see, could never be understood without looking back to the experiences of my parents when they first arrived in America via the city, decades before I left it.

    (more…)
    May 9, 2024
    America, Belgium, China, city, family, gratitude, Hong Kong, identity, immigration, memory, moving, New York, parents

  • Dante in New York

    At Hudson Yards, for G. C.

         Somewhere in the midst of my musing,
    I stumbled upon a hideous shell
    towering into the sky. Confusing

    enough to arrest my thoughts, it fell
    upon an old man clothed in uniform
    to guide me. “Pray sir,” I asked him thus, “tell
    (more…)
    May 8, 2024
    architecture, contempt, Dante, Hudson Yards, New York, Poetry, space

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© Chris Chan [csquaredetc] and Re-entry, 2024. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without my express and written permission is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Chris Chan [csquaredetc] and Re-entry with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

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