Septic Tank Inlet & Outlet Tee FAQsQuestions and answers about using pipe tees as septic tank inlet or outlet baffles or tees to prevent inlet our outlet sewer line clogging.
This article series explains the requirements for septic tank inlet tees and septic tank outlet tees and explains why the length of the tee extensions is important to prevent septic tank or septic piping clogging and to protect the life of a drainfield.
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Here are answers to questions about septic tank tees - made usually of PVC pipe, posted originally
at SEPTIC TANK TEES - please be sure to check out the types of tees and baffles, problems, and solutions discussed there.
Some people use the terms "septic tank tee" and "septic tank baffle" as meaning the same thing (page top sketch) but we note that traditional septic tank baffles on concrete or steel septic tanks were made of a "wall" of material around the tank inlet or outlet while septic tank tees are made typically of a PVC pipe "Tee" (photo at left).
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I recently had our septic pumped which we do every 2 years. Our system is 29 years old and still in great shape. This time however, upon pumping he found the outlet tee floating in tank. He thought it might have fallen off during opening of the cement tank lid.
This is an old system that has a olastic outlet tee that you just push into place. It does not twist on as the new ones do. The man pushed it back into place and then told us that it should be fine. We still are worrying that it could fall off again at any time and ruin our drainfield .
Any suggestions?
Can it be glued back to secure it once in place or even use some wooden screws to screw it into place to secure it?
No damage to drainfield. Everything looked good. On 2017-05-17 by Deborah
by (mod) - warning about drainfield damage
When the tee has fallen off (Use the on-page search box at the top or bottom of this page to find our article on SEPTIC TANK TEES for details) then solids have been pushed into the drainfield: just how much was pushed and for how long determines how much damage was done.
The tee needs to be securely in place; if friction doesn't do it then use a sealant on clean dry surfaces, even silicone caulk might work though butyl may work better.
Watch out: when a septic tank outlet baffle or tee is missing the problem is that floating solids can flow out into the septic D-box and even into the drainfield, clogging the system and shortening its life.
At the very least you should have the D-box inspected for solids, sewage, and clogging. That will give us an idea of the extent of damage and life reduction that was done to the drainfield.
Had septic pumped and discovered outlet tee was in floor of tank. Plumber said looked like settlement had caused tee to pop off.
He glued tee back on and said it is now about 12" from top because of how he had to install, but ideally should be about 16". He ran water out of outlet before putting tee on and said it didn't seem to be a problem with distribution box. Is it acceptable what he did or am I in for problems later On 2017-05-10by Anonymous
by (mod) - Yes
If possible I would suggest extending the T upper is so that is well above the top of the floating scum layer. That will reduce the risk of sending more solids to your drain field.
See my warning and recommendations in my note to Deborah just above.
The outlet tee broke due to tank settled so a good amout of soil entered the tank...Should I be concerned since we fixed the tee and it was only dirt ?
PS...black water is coming out sprinklers... On 2017-04-03 by Margarita Villalobos
by (mod) - Yes
Yes, Margarita. A little dirt falling into the septic tank should be harmless and can be removed when the tank is next cleaned.
But the risk is that solids and sewage flowed into the drainfield and drainfield piping, shortening the life of the drainfield.
Open and inspect the distribution box (D-box) - if no sewage solids are found then we're more optimistic that you found this problem in time.
See my warning and recommendations in my note to Deborah just above.
My liquids tank, the 3rd tank that just has liquids in it, The outlet T is a 3" PVC pipe & there is a hat on the top of this pipe, the HAT has fallen off when tank was being pumped.
There is a small flange that this hat sits on, if the Hat is plastic too, can I just use a good glue & sit the HAT back on the flanged #" PVC pipe? I don't see any other way to install the Hat other than calling a pro to discuss On 2016-08-25 by royster
by (mod) - Yes
The options are to try gluing the septic tank tee cap back on using PVC cement or the entire PVC tee could be replaced if the glue-on doesn't bond.
Watch out: don't work on the septic tank alone, nor lean over it, without training and protection against sewer gases. It's too easy to be overcome by sewer gases and to faint and fall into the septic tank - a quick and nasty death.
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What will happen if the Purifying Septic Tank outlet be closed? Does it affect the work of the septic tank?
How long before the septic tank be full? On 2016-10-11 by Sags
Reply by (mod) - sewage backup warning
If you think that your septic tank inlet or outlet is blocked closed for any reason you should
Watch out: if either the septic tank inlet tee/baffle OR the outlet tee/baffle becomes so blocked that sewage cannot enter the septic tank or effluent cannot leave the septic tank, then as soon as the septic tank is full (minutes to a few days of use of plumbing fixtures in the building) the building drains will stop flowing and you risk toilet or sink or sewage overflows or backups into the building.
About your last question, a working, in-use septic tank is normally always "full" of sewage and effluent, up to the bottom of the outlet pipe.
So when you flush a toilet, as waste and water flow into the septic tank, the same volume of effluent flows out of the septic tank and into the drainfield or effluent dispersal system.
So when the septic tank is blocked, just a few toilet flushes or uses of sinks, tubs, showers, etc. in the building will quickly fill the building drain pipes between fixtures and the septic tank. At that point, any more use of plumbing fixtures will mean that the wastewater backs up into the building.
See details at
My overflow line need replace I have over 3 acres. Waste goes to tank ok but will not flow through overflow lines leading away from tank 2016-07-14 by Robert goines henryville ind
by (mod): do not dump sewage on the ground surface
Robert,
I'm not familiar with any situation that permits un-treated sewage effluent "overflow lines" to discharge to the surface of the ground.And I"m not sure what "overflow" conditions are being addressed. In my book, "overflow" means "failuire" of the system or an under-designed wastewater handling and disposal system.
How does scum build up past the inlet pipe? All flows fine when the scum is pulled out of the inlet chamber, new lines, new tank, new feed.The tank didn't need to be pumped. On 2015-10-10 by Hunter
by (mod)
Scum where - in the tank? sludge and scum form in the septic tank from sewage sent therein.
If you mean crud forming in the piping at the septic tank outlet: that's usually from failure to pump and waste overflowing the top of the outlet tee (a flooded septic tank) or possibly leaks around the outlet baffle or even a lost baffle or tee.
If you mean crud forming in the inlet piping near the tank I suspect a flooded septic tank (as above) or a missing inlet side tee or baffle.
My inlet baffle area is completely filled with roots embedded in a tar like substance. I have cut the roots where they entered the tank and am treating the tank with chemicals to kill the roots. There is no access cover to this area so all my work is taking place through the inlet hole
. I have managed to clear enough room that I think I can get a elbow with extension Dow into the effluent in place. Is there a reason a Tee is used instead of a elbow?
I like the idea of a elbow if I have to clean the inlet in the future. If I use a “blow bomb the elbow should clear no problem and the same with a cable machine. I would know that I was cleared all the way to the effluent this way. Is using a elbow a bad idea? On 2019-07-2 by Jim
Reply by (mod) -
Jim
Watch out: I would NOT try to treat a whole septic tank with root killer. You may kill off the septic tank bacteria and create a worse problem.
You will need to either remove the trees or plants whose roots are invading the septic tank or to dig and install a barrier to keep them out.
Watch out also: if tree roots are invading a septic tank or any septic line that usually means that there has been a sewage effluent leak there or nearby.
At a septic tank I'd look for a septic tank cover or access port or riser or pipe connection at the inlet or outlet end that is not sealed.
The same leakage out of a septic tank can mean surface runoff leaks IN to the tank and septic system, flooding it and causing a failure.
The Tee rather than elbow permits inspection, cleaning, and also helps avoid a blockage in the tank inlet and outlet. I'd use a tee not an elbow. The open top of the tee is what gives you access while an elbow won't. (Your elbow was going to face down and extend the proper distance, right?)
I'm not sure what sort of blow bomb you're considering - some photos and more details would be helpful.
But I'm doubtful that any pressure method will successfully clear roots from a sewer line; more likely you'll just push the debris downline and make for more trouble later.
Typically a sewer drain cleaning company will use a power augur or "roto rooter" type device to clear the line. IN the hands of an experienced operator she can often also feel the condition of the pipes as the augur passes through the line, and can detect a broken or collapsed line - important information. That plus distance would tell you what other digging and line repairs are needed.
My wife and I moved into a newly constructed home with a septic tank in in late 2017. In that short time, the septic tank I nlet pipe has clogged 3 times at the baffle in 2 months with waste and toilet paper.
There is only a 3 inch clearance between the end of the straight inlet pvc pipe and the beginning of the baffle-seems short to me.
The pvc pipe could be cut back an inch or two while still allowing for proper inlet drainage into the tank.
Is that a reasonable solution or is there such a thing as a larger baffle to increase the spacing?
I’ve been in contact with the home builder in case of a warranty issue. On 2018-03-15 by Mel
Reply by (mod) -
Mel: repeat clogs at the septic tank inlet are often caused by improper drain line slope and inadequate wastewater velocity as the waste enters the septic tank.
Clogging can also occur if the tee or baffle is improperly sized, installed, or constructed.
And septic tank tee clogging can also occur if the septic tank itself has not been pumped / cleaned often enough. In that case so much solid waste may accumulate in the tank that the inlet or outlet tee bottom becomes blocked.
About the 3-inch clearance that you mention, I'm unclear on the exact situation (you can use the comment box add-image button to post a photo to explain).
But generally a septic tank tee is a 4" PVC pipe so we ought not to be seeing a passage smaller than that where waste enters the septic tank.
Before changing the baffle or tee I would
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Does the septic tank outlet tee have to be lower than the inlet tee?Does the outlet tee have to be lower than inlet tee from house?
Because the way tee was put back on makes it about 4" higher than when septic was originally installed. Is this acceptable? On 2017-05-12 by Anonymous
Reply by (mod) - Yes; the septic tank inlet opening itself should be higher than the outlet
The actual septic tank outlet opening is normally lower than the inlet opening.
Notice in my sketch the red dashed line shows that the bottom of the septic tank inlet is a couple of inches higher than the bottom of the outlet tee pipe.
Otherwise sewage wants to back up and block the sewer line between septic tank and building.
So a septic tank tee that is inserted into the tank outlet, of same dimensions as the tee inserted into the tank inlet will have its top inches lower than the inlet tee.
As long as the septic tank OUTLET opening itself is lower than the INLET opening, and as long as septic tank tees are sufficiently above the top of the normal top of the floating scum layer, then the tee top height differences probably won't have an effect on septic tank operation.
Is the hole in the septic tank into which the baffle goes supposed to be sealed; i.e., around the baffle pipe so that no water escapes around the pipe?
Thanks. On 2016-06-14 by Ed
by (mod) - yes
A septic tank Tee serving as a tank baffle needs to be sealed where it penetrates the septic tank wall, otherwise effluent leaks out of the tank there and groundwater can leak into the tank, flooding it, flooding the drainfield, damaging the system, and potentially causing a sewage backup in the building.
Installers typically use a silicone or polyurethane or similar adhesive sealant, applied to clean, dry surfaces of the tank and the tee piping. I prefer to do that sealing on the outside surface of the tank rather than from the inside.
Watch out: don't work on the septic tank alone, nor lean over it, without training and protection against sewer gases. You may faint and fall into the septic tank - a quick and nasty death.
I need to grout around the outlet pipe on our septic. The previous owner just had a piece of 3" SDR laying in the rectangular hole. what is the best way to secure the pipe and get a patent seal? On 2015-12-12 by neil
by (mod)
Clean the surfaces and when dry you can apply a polyurethane caulk or masonry caulk or sealant. If you can't get the surfaces dry use a hydraulic patching cement.
Watch out: don't work on the septic tank alone, nor lean over it, without training and protection against sewer gases.
I have a 2006 1000 gallon cbst a life time? If so does it come in two pieces that will wrap around the pvc pipe. after its time for the next clean out, I would replace the tee, how does the new tee seal in the concrete tank?
Does the concrete tank come with rubber seals installed in the concrete? On 2019-02-06 by mike
by (mod) - yes, often
Mike
Can you add an image so I can see what we're patching?
I've used Epoxy to patch a hole in rigid PVC piping and I've used clamp-around clamps + rubber to instdall a removable patch.
The tee is typically sealed into the tank using a flexible sealant (caulk) such as silicone or polyurethane caulk and is a devil to R&r
Older plumbers used asphaltic cement - like roof flashing cement.
Yeah some tanks come with rubber or plastic septic-tank-pipe seals like the one from PolyLock (http://www.polylok.com ) that I show below - click to enlarge and see more specifications.
What material do you recommend to seal the gap between a PVC replacement tee and the wall of a concrete septic tank?
Mortar, or some elastomeric sealant (caulk, polyurethane, plumber's putty, ???), or a mechanical seal (o-ring, oakum)? 2011-08-18 by Brahms
by (mod) -
Typically we use polylurethane or silicone to seal the tank tee to the clean, dry surfaces of the septic tank opening
Watch out: When a tee has been lost, solids have been sent into the drainfield, resulting in clogging and shorter remaining drainfield life.
by Brahms: how I fixed the broken septic tank tee and added a filter
No, I didn't install the inspection port yet - needed to get the tank up and running again first. But after finding how easy it was to remove the lid with the derrick and comealong, I may not install one after all.
By the way, the EF4 filter was only $15 at Southern Pipe & Supply - I was astounded.
Piece of cake. Used an A-frame derrick to lift the lid, pumped a couple of inches of water into the field lines with my submersible pump, and chiseled flush the broken concrete outlet elbow. A piece of 3" Sch 40 PVC wrapped with 1/4" x 1" neoprene foam was a tight fit in the field line, and then some 1/4" fuel line wedged in as packing. A PVC coupling to the Tuf-Tite EF4 and Bob's your uncle.
Belated thanks - other projects have intervened. Pulling off the cover as soon as my inspection port & riser arrive, replacing tee and adding filter. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Do I need an inlet T in my septi tank? It seems to clog up once or twice a year On 2017-04-07 by Dave
Reply by (mod) -
Yes; both an inlet and outlet tee or baffle are standard to avoid solid clogs of the inlet or outlet piping to and from the septic tank.
I just had my septic tank pumped for the first time. It was installed 3 years ago.
The company we had do the pumping broke a tee pipe off that was in the septic tank and also broke the seal out of the tank where the inlet pipe is. Are these both important to the proper functioning of the septic tank?
He broke them off and was going to leave the tee pipe just floating in the septic tank itself but we had him get that back out of it.
He then charged us for all the things he broke. I just need to know how important these are to the tank. (Nov 23, 2014) Brandy Schultheis said:
Reply: Yes, the septic tank tee is critical to avoid sewage backups into the building or septic drainfield / soakaway bed failure
Brandy
Absolutely - the broken tee should be replaced as soon as possible - lest you push solids out of the septic tank into and destroy the drainfield.
And a broken pipe seal at a septic tank inlet or outlet risks admitting ground water into the tank, flooding it, or risks permitting septic effluent to leak out ant an improper location.
The outlet pipe to our leach line is straight out and does not contain an elbow to kkeep it below the scum level.
Our leach lines continually build up with gunk. I told my husband we need an downward facing elbowed outlet pipe . He said no because then he can't flush out the leach lines easily. We don't have a d- box. Who's right? (July 27, 2014) Amy
Reply: your husband is mistaken
Amy you are completely correct.
Omission of the Tee or baffle at the septic tank outlet very seriously shortens the drainfield life by pushing solids out into the field piping.
Install an outlet tee or baffle.
The lines to the drainfield should not need "flushing" - if your husband thinks they do, it's because your septic system has been pushing solids into the piping.
If hubby still wants an opening to mess with the drainfield piping he should install a D-box outside of the septic tank between the solid line feeding the drainfield and the perforated drainfield piping network.
The details of your note make me worry about the correctness of the design and installation of your system.
Had plugged septic inlet line. I removed the septic tank cover and noticed original concrete baffle was broken off. Installed new inlet baffle as seen on site.
I noticed out let baffle was a 90 degree elbow with a down leg could not determine length (tank was full).
Should I change outlet baffle to meet specific as shown at InspectApedia? On 2016-08-06 by angelo
Reply by (mod)
Don't try changing the septic tank baffle yourself.
Rather, When you have the tank pumped it would make sense to ask your service company to open the septic tank outlet end and measure the outlet Tee to see that it's within the recommended range.
Watch out: don't work on the septic tank alone, nor lean over it, without training and protection against sewer gases. It's too easy to be overcome by sewer gases and to faint and fall into the septic tank - a quick and nasty death.
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How to fix a Septic tank not level or where inlet is lower than outlet?Great website, lots of very useful information, many thanks! I am pretty new to septic tanks and we just pumped ours and were told the tank is not level and the inlet is lower than the outlet.
Unfortunately I never got a chance to talk to them myself so don't know by how much.
What is the typical solution? Does the tank have to be leveled or can the inlet/outlet be adjusted? On 2012-09-18 by JoeB
Reply by (mod) -
Just changing the septic tank inlet or outlet baffle or Tee design won't fix this problem, because it won't prevent a blockage at the inlet end of the septic tank.
The solution that I've seen in the field requires excavating the top and part of the inlet end of the septic tank AND the sewer line entering the tank enough to re-route the sewer line at a higher elevation so that it enters the tank such that the bottom of the inlet pipe is higher than the bottom of the outlet pipe.
In extreme cases the plumber sends the inlet into the septic tank through the tank top rather than side.
Where a replacement PVC plastic septic tank tee is installed into a steel or concrete septic tank, the outlet or inlet tee is a standard pipe tee, typically of the same diameter as the incoming sewer line,
How high above sludge line should top of outlet tee be extended ? On 2017-03-02 by Jim
by (mod) - typically 2" - 3"
I don't know a fixed rule, Jim, typically that tee is an air inlet that also has to be high enough to keep solids from overflowing into the tee
And I see the tee top typically 6" above the normal top of the sewage in the tank or at least 2" above the top of the septic tank outlet pipe.
The bottom of the septic tank tee will typically be be 2-3 inches below the bottom of the floating scum layer at the top of the septic tank contents.
Space or distance between normal sewage top in the tank and tank lid underside is the limiting factor.
I have had some backups in the line connecting my house to the septic tank. We ran a camera down the pipe and it looked like a lot of standing water.
I have dug out the pipe now and noticed that it is actually 2 inches higher at the tank than it is at the house.
It is about a 14 foot run so im guessing i should have about 2 inches grade as well. I'm hoping what we can do cut the line and cap it at the tank and then run a new line about 5 inches deeper and drill a new hole into the tank.
I have a huge tank right now so im not worried about losing a bit of volume.
can this be done or will lowing my inlet about 5 inches affect other parts of the septic system? thanks! On 2018-12-14 by matt
by (mod) - Bad plan! Septic Tank Inlet has to be above septic tank outlet
Matt
I expect by now you've discovered if you had a septic contractor look at your tank that the proposal you suggest will not work.That's because the inlet to the septic tank needs to be higher than the outlet.
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Inspection pipe on septic is clogged. Pipe is sticking out of ground one and a half feet.
I dug down one foot and have not found the break yet. How much farther should I have to dig.
Hit septic inspection pipe with lawnmower. Broke pipe. Need to replace, how deep is pipe buried into ground On 2018-12-02 by Dennis
by (mod) - The septic tank tee will be near the top of the inlet end and outlet end of the septic tank.
Dennis,
The septic tank tee will be near the top of the inlet end and outlet end of the septic tank.
See
I understand that the baffle/tee at the inlet is to prevent solids from floating back into or blocking the inlet.
But wouldn't that barrier conversely prevent inlet solids from entering the tank and start plugging up the inlet? How do the solids (toilet paper, food debris, grease, etc.) get from behind the inlet baffle/tee to the tank?
How are they kept from backing up into the inlet due to the baffle/tee? On 2011-06-12 by MD
Reply by (mod) -
MD:
Solids are pushed along with waste water flowing downwards from the waste line entering the septic tank, so they flow under the lower edge of the baffle and into the septic tank.
It's true that a thick scum layer forms inside the baffle, atop the liquid waste level in the tank. Septic tank pumpers call this the "pillow" - a rectangle of floating scum that they see appearing in the septic tank when the waste level is lowered (and the pillow falls down into the main septic tank area) as the septic tank is being pumped during a cleanout.
It's also true that if a septic tank is not pumped on schedule, the thickness of the pillow could begin to obstruct waste flow into the septic tank.
Pump the septic tank on schedule and the waste will flow in at the inlet, under the baffle lower edge, and the tank will work normally.
What does a typical steel tank look like and are the PVC fittings the same size used in the concrete tanks?
Will I have to climb into steel tank in order to get @ the outlet baffle? It looks like I may have to. In this case does the baffle need to be right close to the tank wall or could extend out as far as the tank opening so I do not have to climb in? On 2013-01-13 by Scott
Reply by (mod): do not try climbing into or leaning over your septic tank
Watch out: don't work on the septic tank alone, nor lean over it, without training and protection against sewer gases. It's too easy to be overcome by sewer gases and to faint and fall into the septic tank - a quick and nasty death.
To access the outlet baffle of a septic tank the tank cover or a smaller access cover (depending on your septic tank type and size) is removed (after digging to expose the top of the septic tank).
If your steel septic tank is an older round one with a single flat cover with no openings, the whole cover would have to be removed.
That's a job for your septic contractor.
Watch out: often on older steel septic tanks the inlet and outlet baffles are a simple half round steel plate welded to the tank sides, and they are often rusted away or have fallen off.
In turn that sends solids into the drainfield, clogging it and leading to a costly repair.
If the tank is in usable condition (and size) then it's possible to install a replacement baffle using PVC pipe.
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We've been in our house for a year and just had our septic tank emptied only to discover that the teepipes have broken off and there's a blockage/collapsed outlet pipe to the soak away.
Unsure of steps to take now as had a firm in who are suggested a whole new soak away. Any help appreciated thanks On 2017-09-19 by Sam t
by (mod) - broken septic tank baffle or tee means solids went into the drainfield but before replacing the whole drainfield do this:
Darn. A broken baffle or tee means we sent solids into the drainfield, speeding up its demise by putting clogging crud therein.
You want to have new septic tank ees installed at inlet and outlet from the tank (if both are broken), and then you might be so lucky as to have the area of collapsed line dug up and repaired without having more repair work to do.
I wouldn't assume you need a whole new soakaway without more evidence that the fields are saturated or totally clogged or crushed.Start by inspecting the Distribution Box or D-Box (that connects the line out from the septic tank into the network of drainfield or soakaway bed pipes). If you see there that sewage (solids) flowed into the D-box (and so probably out of it) I'd be pessimistic about the remaining drainfield life.
But even so, if you are not seeing a backup from the drainfield into the septic tank or wet areas in the drainfield area, you might defer replacing the fields.
To assess the condition of your drainfield objectively,
see SEPTIC DRAINFIELD FAILURE DIAGNOSIS
Watch out: don't let some dope drive heavy machinery over your tank or soakaway or the fields will be destroyed immediately.
Details are at DRIVING or PARKING OVER SEPTIC
Hi. Recently moved into an old cottage. Previous owners said they weren't sure where the septic tank was, but (possibly stupidly) we bought the house anyway.
One neighbour told us we don't have one and the waste flows into the river whch thankfully turned out not to be correct.
Anyway, we discovered the location of the tank when the last drain cover before the tank (just a 4" down pipe, not a proper drain) began to overflow. Before that we didn't even know that drain was there as it was under grass
It turns out after a lot of digging that we have a concrete/block single-compartment septic tank that had about a metre of soil and grass on top of it and it was full and the pipe was blocked. Having just had the tank emptied I now set about trying to unblock the pipe.
I put a 4" plunger on the end of my drain rods and pumped up and down for ages until the water suddenly flowed properly.
All sounds good and like the problem is fixed, but what actually happened is the inlet tee blew off and is now floating around in the little bit of water that is in the tank.
What I want to know is what problems might this tee not being there cause and how much should I expect a tradesman to charge to fix it.
Obviously the actually cost of any parts is minimal, but I have no idea how long such a job should take. Also I am thinking of getting the depth of the tank increased so that it is back up to ground level and I can fill the hole in around it; is that an okay thing to do? Thanks all. On 2016-02-18 by Simon
by (mod)
When the septic tank won't drain, EITHER the drainfield is failed and needs replacement, OR there is a blocked drain line between tank and fields.
Lowering the tank is not a useful approach to consider.
Watch out: if your sewage is simply flowing out of a septic tank in to a river or stream your system is improper, almost certainly illegal (in most countries), and is a serious public health hazard.
Today my son’s septic system failed.
- Septic tank overflowed and company sucked it out says we need a new drainfield.
- Was not properly diagnosed save for looking at the scum layer high on the baffle and declaring the drain field dead. Not ready to pay 3000. Help…..
- Upon my inspection, inlet tee is broke, lifted right out as it is the old drain tile tee type 1960 era.
- Outlet tee is broke off and gone. Drain Field is plugged with “dirt?” at the outlet tee area and up the line for how far?
- I want to auger out to the distribution box and maybe even auger out the drain field. Replace the inlet and outlet tees and continue on.
- I will create a test riser on the septic tank side of the distribution box after lines are cleaned out and put 20gal of water in the drain field ever hour for an 8hr period. If it handles this load should it not be able to handle clarified effluent? Tks for your help.
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