Fan & Limit Switch on Warm Air Furnaces - homeFurnace blower fan limit safety switch installation & troubleshooting:
This article describes in detail the purpose, operation, setting, installation, wiring, and testing of furnace combination controls, also commonly called the "fan limit switch" on warm air heating systems.
Covered here: How to Wire the Fan & Limit Control wire and test the combination fan and limit control on a furnace. Which Way to Set the White AUTO / MANUAL Fan Control Switch.
Sensing Furnace Temperatures How to manually turn on a furnace or air conditioning blower fan. Guide to troubleshooting heating system furnace controls, limit controls, and fan controls. Causes of furnace blowing cold air at start-up of heating cycle.
We also describe a Firstat duct temperature limit control that is a very similar device but used as a fire safety feature in building HVAC and building automation systems.
The sketch at the top of this page shows the typical location of a combination fan and limit control such as the Honeywell type L4064B, a control whose installation, settings, testing, & operation are explained in detail here. Sketch at page top courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection, education & report writing tool company [ carsondunlop.com ].
InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
- Daniel Friedman, Publisher/Editor/Author - See WHO ARE WE?
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The fan limit switch on a heating furnace controls when the furnace blower fan turns on and off. This control also provides a safety limit that turns off the burner or furnace if temperatures at the furnace are too high.
Fan/Limit switches are used on all types of building heating furnaces.
A combined fan limit switch such as the Honeywell L4064 or the White Rodgers 5D51-90 limit control provides at least three heating blower fan temperature controls that respond to the temperature in the furnace supply air plenum:
1- FAN OFF:
the low temperature at which the furnace blower fan will STOP to prevent blowing cool air onto room occupants.
Typical factory setting: 90°F
2- FAN ON:
the temperature at which the blower fan will turn ON to begin to deliver heat to the building's occupied spaces.
Typical factory setting: 100°F
3- FAN LIMIT:
the high temperature at which the high limit switch will open (turn OFF) to stop the burner to prevent overheating of and damage to the heat exchanger. Such damage would make the furnace unsafe.
Typical factory setting: 200 °F
By keeping the fan off until the supply air plenum is warm, the heating furnace limit switch prevents the furnace blower from sending chilly air into the building if the oil or gas burner has not sufficiently heated up the furnace heat exchanger and supply air plenum.
Watch out: when adjusting the temperature settings in this control do not press on, bend, twist nor in any other way fool around with the rotating metal disc. Doing so can bend its moving parts and spring, rendering the control both inaccurate and unsafe.
Below we show a close view of typical FAN OFF (about 90°F) FAN ON (about 140°F) and FAN LIMIT (200°F) settings on a Honeywell fan limit control.
Details about setting the temperature controls on a heating furnace fan limit switch are
at FAN LIMIT CONTROL SETTINGS.
In this photo we show a close-up of the temperature dial in a Honeywell Tradeline L4064B 2228 combination furnace control.
The silver fan control dial shown in our photograph, driven by a bimetallic spring that is inside the probe that is in turn inserted into the supply air plenum, responds to temperatures inside the furnace. In response to supply air temperature this control turns the blower fan on, off, and provides an upper limit temperature setting for safety.
The wiring for this control is
at HONEYWELL FAN LIMIT SWITCH WIRING
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Below, adapted from shopping suggestions from a Google search for "fan limit control" we show types of furnace fan and limit switches. We describe each of these furnace fan limit control switches on this page.
In the first limit control switch at the left in our illustration you see that a snap-disc type limit control is mounted on extending legs so that it can be placed at the furnace-manufacturer's required location in the supply air plenum.
The other snap disc switches in our illustration are all surface mounted and are often matched to specific brands and models of heating equipment.
The White Rodgers adjustable fan/limit controller shown below provides a toggle switch at the top of the control. That switch allows the user to select MAN (fan will be always on) or AUTO.
This White Rodgers fan limit control sports an 11-inch long insertion probe that projects into the supply air plenum.
The wiring for White-Rodgers universal fan limit switches is
at WHITE RODGERS FAN LIMIT SWITCH WIRING
Also see WHITE RODGERS CONTROLS & MANUALS - all manuals
Watch out: for safety and for proper furnace temperature and fan operation it is essential that the fan limit control's temperature sensing device be located where the furnace manufacturer has specified and that the probe be of the proper length.
A probe that touches other metal parts or that is too short or too long will not work properly and the heating system may be unsafe.
You will see that the there are two popular Fan/Limit control switch designs:
Some gas furances use one or more "snap disc" devices that monitor temperatures and act as the necessary controls,or another solid state limit control or manual reset limit control switch rather than a conventional fan limit switch. Both types of controls are shown on this page.
Above: a single-purpose snap-disc type limit switch from Nordyne, the Nordyne L150F.
A single purpose snap-disc type "limit switch" such as this one will "OPEN" to turn off the burner if temperature reaches or exceeds the switch's rated temperature, in this case 150°F.
Below is the limit switch from a 1988 Amana gas furnace.
Watch out: do not assume that you can easily swap out one type of furnace fan and limit control for another. Improper sensing of temperatures or control of the blower fan or burner can make a heating system unsafe.
Manufacturer's installation & adjustment instructions for each of the heating fan and limit switch controls discussed in this article series are found at References or Citations at the end of of each of our articles.
For the BC7070 shown above here is a wiring diagram and very brief manual
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Ten steps in operation of a forced-air heating system and the role of the furnace fan limit switch or limit control are described here.
Photo above: a General Electric Fan Limit control on an older gas furnace, courtesy of InspectApedia reader Zika. A typical GE Limit Switch model number was 3AHL5K2B8 but we don't have the model ID for the switch in our photo.
Like many other furnace plenum or duct temperature limit controls, these fan limit switches were sold with sensors at one of three typical lengths: 5-inch, 7.5-inch, or 11-inches.
The proper sensor limit length is, in some installations, important for the control to sense temperature correctly, and of course a too-long switch might be damaged or made unsafe by touching the opposite side of a plenum or duct surface.
The fan limit switch is a control which determines when the hot air furnace blower assembly turns on and off. In general, the sequence of operation of a forced-warm-air furnace heating system is this:
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In these illustrations we show to illustrations of a hot air furnace fan limit switch as you're likely to find one at a typical furnace.
The gas fired forced air furnace fan limit switch in the photo below is pointed-to by the red arrow.
The oil-fired furnace fan limit switch shown in our photo below is in use on an oil-fired warm air furnace where we can see about 3/4 of the silver colored dial where the FAN LIMIT CONTROL switch settings are made.
Watch out: Don't let your focus on a specific control device blind you to other important signs of the condition of a heating appliance.
In the left side of the same photo above, soot and foil tape above the oil burner assembly also tell us that this system has been operating improperly with back pressure in the combustion chamber. Such a system might be unsafe.
Really? Well not always. A heating system duct temperature limit control might also be installed at critical locations in ductwork, typically in a commercial HVAC system or as part of a building automation system. See our description of the Firestat
at FAN LIMIT CONTROL TYPES. Below I'll include two other examples of heating furnace fan limit control switches.
Above: your furnace might use a "snap disc" devices that monitor temperatures and act as the necessary control.
Below: this Amana gas furnace fan limit control switch doesn't look anything like the common Honeywell fan limit controls shown above.
Both the snap disc or the Amana gas furnace limit control, if present, would normally be found somewhere on the surface of the hot air plenum on your furnace.
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Click to enlarge the fan limit control switch sketch below to read the names of its various parts and controls.
Sketch below is provifded courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates, a Toronto home inspection, report-writing tool, and home inspection education company.
Watch out: The fan limit switch is also a safety control which protects the furnace heat exchanger from damage (such as heat exchanger cracking due to overheating) by turning the heat source or burner off at the furnace should the temperature inside the warm air supply plenum (just above or just next to the heat exchanger) gets too high.
If a furnace heat exchanger overheats there is risk that the heat causes a crack that in turn could leak dangerous combustion gases or potentially fatal carbon monoxide into the occupied spaces in the building.
Overheating at the furnace heat exchanger is an unusual condition but it does indeed occur if any condition obstructs air flow through the heat exchanger.
Obstructed air flow can occur because of a dirty air filter, blocked or disconnected air ducts, or if someone has fouled up the system controls.
Details: In normal warm air furnace operation, by moving building air across the heat exchanger, the blower is warming air that will be delivered into the occupied space, but at the same time this process is keeping the heat exchanger from reaching too-high a temperature.
If a furnace blower fan fails to start but the furnace heat source (gas or oil fired burner) is running, the heat exchanger would be come overheated and may warp and crack.
The fan limit switch is designed to prevent this damage by shutting off the burner if plenum temperatures reach the high limit.
A fan limit control switch is found on both oil and gas fired heating furnaces of all types.
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As we show this control in our photo at left, usually the adjustable-type fan limit switch of this type has a silver cover hiding the switch details.
If a manual fan ON/AUTO control is provided you will see (on Honeywell controls) the white "fan override" button or for White Rodgers controls a sliding metal toggle switch projecting through the cover of the control. .
Provided that the fan switch is in AUTO position, when the thermostat has been satisfied and turns off the oil or gas burner at the furnace, the fan limit switch will cause the blower or fan unit to continue to operate just until the temperature at the supply plenum has reached or dropped below the FAN OFF lower limit on the switch - the blue arrow in our photo above.
Then the control will turn the blower fan OFF.
On many warm air heating systems, at least during cold weather, the burner or heat source will continue to run all of the time that the building thermostat is asking for heat, and will stop running as quickly when the thermostat is satisfied.
If the furnace oil or gas burner is very high capacity, or if the furnace fan/limit controls have been set to cause this effect, the burner may on some systems cycle on and off periodically while the warm air blower continues to run.
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On the silver cover of the fan limit control switch shown in our photo above the cover embossing indicates that PUSHING the button IN forces the fan ON mode.
"PUSH ON" is functionally the same as PUSH MAN (embossed on the switch body itself as we show at left) - it means that you are manually setting the fan to remain on continuously.
On the identical fan limit control shown with its cover off (our photo with the colored arrows), it's hard to see without enlarging the photo, (click to enlarge) but there is text embossed into the switch body that says PUSH MAN instead of PUSH ON shown on the switch cover.
Pull this button (white arrow in the photo) out to cause the fan to run automatically (AUTO) - meaning that the switch itself will turn the blower fan on and off in response to furnace plenum air temperature. Summarizing:
Really? Ok so the "PUSH ON, PULL AUTO" switch is not present on every manual fan switch.
Some limit control models do not include this white button or switch to give manual control over the fan.
On the switch shown, pushing the switch IN puts the fan in MAN or ALWAYS ON while pulling the white switch OUT restores the fan to AUTO operation
- it will turn on or off according to the supply air temperature and the FAN OFF, FAN ON settings on the control.
On the limit control in our photos imprints on the control label it PUSH MAN, PULL AUTO.
Thanks to reader Rob for pointing out the confusion about the fan control AUTO - MANUAL switch positions on the fan limit control.
Below my pencil points to a close-up view of the white blower fan control switch on this fan limit controller.
On systems where we have installed high quality air filtration to address an indoor air quality issue, and where the fan is rated for continuous duty, we may pull this switch out to keep the fan on continuously.
Watch out: don't confuse the FAN ON / AUTO / MANUAL settings on the fan limit control switch (found in or on the furnace air handler) with similar controls found on many room thermostats and described separately
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Above we've already discussed the controls and settings of the fan limit switch. What we haven't explained is how the switch senses temperatures in the furnace. The fan limit switch contains a bi-metallic spring (shown at left) which is inserted into the warm air plenum of the heating furnace.
As the air in the furnace plenum warms up the bimetallic spring expands, turning a gear which turns the fan limit control dial (shown in the photo above).
As the fan limit switch control dial rotates, mechanical "fingers" on the back of the dial operate electrical contacts inside the switch to turn the fan on or off and at the upper limit to turn off the furnace oil or gas burner as well.
When you move one of the little sliding temperature set points on the face of the dial you're moving the position of the mechanical fingers on the back of the dial.
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Question: I bypassed the limit switch and the heater worked fine, but when I tried to test the air conditioner it would not workI have a Goodman PGB048075-1 furnace. The high limit switch is bad. I bypassed the limit switch and the heater worked fine, but when I tried to test the air conditioner it wouldn’t work.
Is that because I need to replace the high limit switch in order for the air conditioner to work. Or will it work with the limit switch bypassed. I already know the high limit switch is bad.
But just want to know why the heater works but not the air conditioner with the limit switch bypassed. - Brian
[Photo, left, the integrated ignition control circuit board from a Goodman furnace. [1]
A competent onsite inspection by an expert often finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a problem with furnace controls, but we agree that it makes complete sense to start with a known, obvious failure - in this case you point to the limit switch.
We have read a few other Q&A's on bad limit switches on the Goodman Furnace model PGB048075-1, though not all of them actually tracked back to a bad switch.
Though your question focuses on why the A/C won't run in cooling mode with your limit switch "bypassed", there are a few things to check right away:
Watch out: bypassing any HVAC equipment safety control such as a limit switch is dangerous, risking overheating and unsafe conditions including a building fire.
Also bypassing the limit switch and can result in permanent damage to the equipment (such as heat exchanger warping and cracking), fire or carbon monoxide hazards, or other failures that leads to having to replace the unit.
Quoting from a Goodman installation manual:
Watch out: WARNING TO PREVENT PREMATURE FAILURE OF HEAT EXCHANGER, PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH, DO NOT ADJUST THE LIMIT CONTROL (FACTORY SET).
The Goodman Furnace model PGB048075-1 is a mid-efficiency natural gas furnace with an AFUE rating of 80%. Manuals are available from Goodman and other online sources.
I attach a copy of a 2004 Goodman Furnace manual that may be of some help. Page 26 of that manual describes checking the primary limit control. You'll notice that nowhere does Goodman endorse any wiring modifications such as bypassing the control.
The furnace manual includes an excellent furnace troubleshooting chart that decodes the meaning of the diagnostic lights on the primary control LED. This might help you make sure that you've correctly identified the trouble with your unit.
Warning: for general guidance the below is quoted from the furnace manual described at References. Details for your model may vary:
The primary limit control guards against overheating resulting from insufficient conditioned air passing over the heat exchanger
If the primary limit control does not function during this test, the cause must be determined and corrected. Function of this control should be verified by gradually blocking the furnace return air after the furnace has been operating (burners firing) for approximately ten minutes.
Because your furnace uses an integrated control module (an electronic device that controls all furnace operations) it is certainly possible that the control module, which monitors all of the safety circuits, is not permitting the unit to run with your modification to the safety limit control. The company describes the various safety controls on this equipment as follows:
The primary limit control guards against overheating resulting from insufficient conditioned air passing over the heat exchanger. If the primary limit control does not function during this test, the cause must be determined and corrected.
Function of this control should be verified by gradually blocking the furnace return air after the furnace has been operating (burners firing) for approximately ten minutes. Check the control as follows:
Watch out: WARNING TO PREVENT PREMATURE FAILURE OF HEAT EXCHANGER, PROPERTY DAMAGE, PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH, DO NOT ADJUST THE LIMIT CONTROL (FACTORY SET).
... These checks establish that the primary limit control is functioning and will respond to a restriction in the return air, or a circulator blower failure. If the primary limit control does not function during this test, the cause must be determined and corrected.
A number of safety circuits are employed to ensure safe and proper furnace operation. These circuits serve to control any potential safety hazards and serve as inputs in the monitoring and diagnosis of abnormal function. These circuits are continuously monitored during furnace operation by the integrated control module.
The integrated control module is an electronic device which controls all furnace operations.
Responding to the thermostat, the module initiates and controls normal furnace operation, and monitors and addresses all safety circuits. If a potential safety concern is detected, the module will take the necessary precautions and provide diagnostic information through an LED.
The primary limit control is located on the partition panel and monitors heat exchanger compartment temperatures. It is an automatic reset, temperature sensor.
The limit guards against the overheating as a resulting of insufficient air passing over the heat exchanger.
The auxiliary limit control is located either on or near the circulator blower and monitors heat exchanger compartment temperatures.
The control is a temperature sensor. It guards against overheating resulting from insufficient air passing over the heat exchanger.
The rollout limit controls are mounted on the burner/manifold assembly and monitor the burner flame. They are manual-reset, temperature sensors. This limit guards against burner flames not being properly drawn into the heat exchanger.
The pressure switches are normally-open, negative air pressure activated switches. They monitor the airflow (combustion air and flue products) through the heat exchanger via pressure taps located on the induced draft blower. These switches guard against insufficient airflow (combustion air and flue products) through the heat exchanger.
The flame sensor is a probe mounted to the burner/manifold assembly which uses the principle of flame rectification to determine the presence or absence of flame.
See GOODMAN HVAC MANUALS & ERROR CODES for access to Goodman heating and air conditioning equipment manuals and installation instructions.
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Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.
The burners are running and the blower is running but the temperature is not going up. The flame is strong and blue, the filter is new, all the registers are unobstructed.
The only return is the one on the furnace itself which is at floor level and since the house has been cold for 12 days, it is still pretty cold air going into the furnace. Is there any other possible reasons that the temperature is stuck at 64 even though the burners and blowers have been working constantly now?
I have moved the fan limit tabs and settled at 150 for blower on and 80 for blower off. This has allowed the furnace to finally reach the 70 that it was set at. My question now is whether this 150 is safe to keep the furnace at?
After being set lower overnight, it again has taken all day to climb up to 68 degrees. The burners stay lit but the blower goes off every couple minutes. I have noticed that the pilot light flame is not very long. Could it be insufficient? On 2022-01-19 by Regina Caeli (PJ)
I thought that if the pilot did not hit the flame sensor directly, thus causing it to not be hot enough, this would make the burners go out, not the blower stop.
by Inspectapedia Com Moderator -
@Regina Caeli (PJ),
Burner is on and blower fan is running but -which?- temperature is not going up:
- temperature in the occupied space at the thermostat? - check the delivery of warm air to the occupied space: look for a dirty air filter, collapsed, disconnected or crushed heating duct
- temperature in the furnace itself, at the plenum? - watch the fan limit switch dial: it will rotate towards a higher temperature as the plenum heats up; It should not be possible for the burner to run without heating the plenum at the furnace itself.by Regina Caeli (PJ)
@Inspectapedia Com Moderator,
The temperature at the thermostat is not going up. The air from the ducts is not very warm. If I raise the fan off temperature to 90, the blower keeps going off after only running 45 seconds.I have observed the fan limit switch and the temperature drops about 30-40 degrees when the blower comes on. I have it set at 140 for the fan on temperature.
It takes awhile to build to that but when it does come on, the temperature drops to about 100. Then is holds for about a minutes and then it drops below the the 90 fan off temperature and the blower goes off.
I have pushed the fan off temperature down to 70 and this keeps the blower on but then the house temperature at the thermostat does not get over 64.
It seems that the fan limit switch is doing its job.The only return is on the side of the furnace and it is at floor level on the ground level of my home.
Since a thermometer on the floor near this return reads only 50, I think that the air coming in is just too cold for the furnace causing the big drop in temperature in the plenum when the blower kicks on.
by Inspectapedia Com Moderator - blower will turn off to avoid sending cold air
@Regina Caeli (PJ),
Your guess sounds reasonable to me. If incoming return air temperature and volume is so cold and so much that it cools the furnace plenum temperature so that it drops below the FAN ON temperature then the blower will turn off to avoid sending cold air to the occupants.
But in that case the burner should continue to operate and when it raises the plenum temperature back to the FAN ON temp then the blower should turn on again.
The proper settings are given at FAN LIMIT CONTROL SETTINGS
Normally I'd stick with those. But if your temperature adjustment has got you heat that may be OK. You did not mention the upper temperature limit setting - that's also important for safety.
Watch out: moving the tabs or adjusting the fan limit control is dangerous. It is too easy to accidentally bend the internal spring behind that rotating wheel; if the springs are bent then the switch is no longer properly calibrated and it could be unsafe.by Regina Caeli (PJ)
@Inspectapedia Com Moderator,
Yes, the burners stay on and when the temperature goes up to the FAN on temp again, the blowers come back on. I know the standard is 130 but I have pushed it to 150 with FAN off temp about 70. IS there any problem with keeping the FAN on at 150?I have had no problem with the upper limit at all, whenever the blower stops, the burners are always on and when I check the dial on the fan limit switch, it is never near the upper limit.
To me, it seems that the fan limit switch is doing its job so I don't have to replace it. But I would like to know if that is your thinking also.
by Inspectapedia Com Moderator
@Regina Caeli (PJ),
I did say before that I thought these settings were reasonable as you described but of course the final technical authority would be the manufacturer of your heating equipment.
150 F imo is not extreme.
Still, ...
Watch out: There is a concern that constant cycling of a furnace between quite cold and quite hot temperatures increases the risk of cracking in the heat exchanger. Ultimately that could cause a flue gas leak into the house which could be quite dangerous.
So it's also worth investigating why the return air is so cold and whether you should be installing additional return air sources from the occupied area.
Thank you sir, I understand. It does have a "Manual Reset Limit Switch" that is stand alone without a dial, my furnace/system does not have a dial on the fan limit switch.. there’s nothing like the pictures of this dial on this forum of my furnace.
I’ve been replied on another forum (doityourself.com) that my "Manual Reset Limit Switch" may be a substituted modification - I do remember when I needed a new thermostat
3-4 years ago, the tech said my original simple thermostat was no longer available and I had to convert to quite an expensive fancy modern thermostat.
Maybe he installed this “MRLS” then, I don’t know, I do know the sticker/decal stating & pointing to it is much newer than being original on the furnace - with that said, this little switch is covered in dust and looks never touched. On 2021-01-26
by Billy
It was the Limit Switch in the heat exchanger, it was opening at 180F degrees which was the hottest the air ever achieved in the exchanger, this Limit Switch isn’t supposed to open until 230F
It was the furnace’s original switch made in 1988.
I’ve ordered an OEM replacement but it’s rating is 220F, I think it’ll be fine, pic attached is the original.
Thank you :) On 2021-01-29
With thanks to reader Billy,
On older Amana furances the limit switch that we show here is for the
Amana Air Command Hi Efficiency 80 Gas Furnace - Model GCI115X35A P1155313F - Year 1988
We can see from the additional photo I've adapted from a 36T01B3 44603 Fan Limit L220-40F Carrier HH12ZB220 for sale on eBay that your Amana gas furnace limit control switch is indeed a snap-disc type controller;
Newer models of this switch may orient the snap disc in parallel with the extension arms and the arms may be black instead of yellow; the part is often listed as "discontinued" but available as "new old stock".
An alternative that IMO is perhaps safer, is essentially the same switch but that opens at a slightly lower temperature than the original - as you noted and as we see in vendors offering a primary limit controller opening at 215°F.
it is not adjustable;
if it stops working as it should the right repair is to replace it.
HVAC parts suppliers list this switch as something like
107283-26 Amana High Limit Switch L220-40F
Amana 3" Limit Safety Switch 220 Degrees
Models Number GC1A, GCIA070A30.
10728326 & 107283-26
Limit L220 Degree Cut Out -40F Cut In 180 Degrees
Also see this AMANA GOODMAN SERVICE & TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE [PDF] for 80% Single Stage Gas Furnaces GMES80, AMES80, GCES80, ACES80, VMES80, VCES80 & Accessories
where on p. 33 you'll find "CHECKING PRIMARY LIMIT CONTROL" that describes testing the limit control. On 2021-01-29
by (mod)
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I have a Thermo Pride oil furnace. I recently replaced the fan limit switch. Did not mess with the dial.
My problem is with the plenum temp not getting hot enough to move the limit switch dial to... fan on. And without the fan turning on... the burner shuts off after it runs for 60 seconds when I call for heat.
The thermostat is set 10 degrees above room temp to make sure it will call for heat.
However... when I watch the limit switch dial... and call for heat several times... increasing the plenum temp each time I push the reset button on the relay switch... the dial will turn until it’s hot enough to turn the switch on. Then... everything works just fine. Burner works... and blower fan works.
But if I turn the temperature down on the thermostat... and let the furnace cool down... my problem repeats.
I have to go back into my crawl space and push the reset button on the relay... several times (burner only runs for 60 seconds without the fan turning on) to get enough heat to the limit switch to get it to move to the fan on position.
I’ve replaced the relay switch... fan limit switch... and the fan motor run capacitor.
Any advice on why my fan limit switch will not get hot enough to move the dial to... fan on... when I call for heat and the burner runs for 60 seconds before shutting off? On 2020-11-22
by Michael
Reply by (mod) -
Michael:
Let's back up: what problem was being solved when you replaced the fan limit switch in the first place? Is it possible that that problem was not diagnosed correctly and that the switch was not the problem?
It sounds as if you replaced the control because you were already having this problem of the plenum temperature not getting hot and then the limit control not turning on the fan.
The fact that on repeated restarts you ultimately heat up the plenum and the fan works and the limit control works, suggests that the problem is either
- the burner is not working properly and not pumping in enough heat fast enough
or
- the heat exchanger is blocked or soot clogged, so not enough heat is being transferred fast-enough into the plenum
More diagnostic suggestions are
at FURNACE or A/C BLOWER FAN WONT START
Watch out: for other readers (as Michael's is an oil furnace) a blocked heat exchanger can also make the heater unsafe. In particular if this is a gas system and it's making soot there is high risk of a fatal carbon monoxide poisoning hazard.
Anon (if you are not Michael)
Thanks that's a helpful question: why won't the blower fan turn on and stay on.
Watch out: if the burner turns on and the fan limit switch dial rotates to show it's sensing warmer temperatures and then continues to rotate all the way up to the FAN HIGH LIMIT where it turns off the burner then your heating system is unsafe and the problem may be that the fan won't turn on. See the FURNACE FAN WON'T START live link I give just above.
Have you watched the dial and indeed seen that it does not rotate at all as the plenum warms up? If that's the case the control may be defective.
But if the dial rotates all the way around to FAN OFF at the HIGH limit on the control quickly (perhaps in 60 seconds) the the problem may be that the blower isn't turning on, so not enough air passes through the heat exchanger, and thus the control is turning off the burner to avoid overheating and cracking the heat exchanger ( that can be a fatal hazard).Reader follow-up: by Michael
The original problem was that the fan would not start when I would call for heat. I would start the burner w/ the relay switch... and the fan would not start. I was able to manually turn on the fan at the limit switch.
All of the research I had done suggested if - the fan will only stay on when manually turned on - it was the limit switch that needed replacing. The fan motor not being the problem.
After I replaced the limit switch... I inspected the old limit switch and found some corrosion on the end of the open rod that holds the helix. I figured... that was the problem.
The motor/burner is less than 2 years old by the way.
I was under my house this morning and I went through the steps of restarting the burner several times to get the fan limit switch to turn to fan on.
Now... keeping the thermostat at 70 degrees... it works just fine. When the temp drops below 70... it calls for heat... and the burner turns on... and the fan shortly after. I suspect this is because the furnace is still warm from recently being on.
The burner appears to work fine... it’s heating my home now... no problem... as long as the furnace stays warm.
- the burner is not working properly
- the heat exchange is blocked/cloggedAre these problems I can fix... or do I need to call a professional.
Moderator reply: oil burner not heating the plenum enough to turn on the blower fan - going off on reset?
Michael
Your first point sounds entirely reasonable and right to me. I'd have replaced the switch too.
That corroded helix might have meant that the sensor - basically a wound-up bimetallic spring - was not responding to temperature. So we agree again.
Properly the fan does not turn on until the plenum is sufficiently warm, so as to avoid blowing cold air on building occupants, and the fan continues to run for a time after the burner stops, to extract remaining heat and reduce chances of heat damage to the heat exchanger.
When the burner turns on, if it truly is unable to heat the heat exchanger and thence air in the plenum enough to cause the limit switch to turn on the blower then that's pretty unusual and points first to the 2 items I listed.
Of course your service tech may find something else - even a subtle issue like a corroded or bad electrical connection (that might respond to heat).
For example, beyond an improperly-operating oil burner that isn't putting out enough heat or a blocked heat exchanger, your furnace could simply have an oil burner that is way out of tune, running sooty and smoky, thus tripping a safety control that shuts down the burner - or even simply a bad flame sensor or cad cell eye.
But when the whole system has cooled down such that on a call for heat the burner can't warm up the plenum enough to turn on the blower fan then I suspect it's one of the 2 problems we've now both listed.
Those are not things a homeowner can safely fix; a heating service tech, if she agrees that the furnace needs cleaning, will disassemble some of the furnace, vacuum out the soot, do the same for the flue and chimney, then clean and tune the oil burner, replacing the filter, screen, and nozzle; then to properly set the burner air and fuel unit pressure instrumentation is needed - stuff you won't have and aren't trained to use.
Forgive me for hedging in a reply like this, but in my experience, almost always, when I'd go to the home of someone who had reported and described the conditions of a building or mechanical system problem I'd find something else that was important or necessary to know but that simply wasn't so obvious to the homeowner who wasn't someone who did that work all the time.
This is excellent information.
My issue is that my furnace calls for heat just fine and the proceeds to go through the expected sequence.
It gets to a point where the unit then starts short cycling the fan. When I go to inspect the unit I can hear it bouncing back and forth and the gas blower jets are still flaming...
Would I be right to assume that this is because it needs to stop blowing hot air as the flue may be blocked? it has a new filter installed so not that...I also replaced the limited switch...could it possibly be the flame sensor also? On 2020-01-08 by jim
by (mod) - causes of furnace blower fan short cycling
Jim
Thanks for the nice comment.
A short-cycling blower fan during the heating cycle does, as you suggest, usually mean that the plenum is overheating and in turn that's often because of reduced air flow through the heat exchanger, such as caused by
This is excellent information. - On 2020-01-08 by jim
Wow. Such a super wonderful clear explanation for the beginner like me. thanks a lot - On 2018-10-24 by Jin
Thanks for the detailed photos and explanation of the theory, function and operation of fan limit switches. On 2012-10-19 by Al Gozinya
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