AKA A Day of Opulence, Craft Beer, and Historic Sights
We started today at Münich Residentz, the former royal palace of the Bavarian monarchs. Nestled in the heart of the city, this historical gem offers a deep dive into Munich’s royal past. We wandered through its opulent halls and stunning rooms, which house impressive collections of art, armour, and period furniture. The intricate architecture and beautiful courtyards make it a must-visit for anyone looking to experience the grandeur of Munich’s aristocratic history. The tranquil ambiance contrasts beautifully with the bustling city streets outside.
After soaking in the history of Münich Residentz, we headed to the St. Peter’s Tower for breathtaking panoramic views of Munich. From the top, you can see the city unfold before you, with the distant Alps looming majestically on the horizon. The view of the iconic Marienplatz and the famous Glockenspiel was especially spectacular at noon, when the clock chimes and the mechanical figures come to life in a fascinating display. It’s an experience that brings Munich’s rich history and vibrant modernity together.
Once we were done taking in the sights, we strolled through the nearby streets for some souvenir shopping.
We also meandered through the city’s most famous market is the Viktualienmarkt, a bustling outdoor food market located in the heart of the city, where locals and tourists alike can find fresh produce, gourmet delicacies, regional cheeses, sausages, and artisanal goods. We bought some krapfen, a mouthwatering German doughnut which brought back fond childhood memories. Growing up, this was one of my favourite treats that my Oma used to make for us.
Then it was time for lunch, so we headed to some of the local breweries to sample some of Munich’s finest brews.
We started at Augustiner’s and ph my word, what a feast!
We then headed to Giesinger Bräu (a beloved local spot recommended by Franz), where we enjoyed a refreshing glass of craft beer made from traditional Bavarian recipes. The cosy atmosphere and friendly service made it a great place to relax and savour a taste of Munich’s beer culture.
Another must-visit is Spatenhaus BräuHaus which offered a larger selection of brews in a more traditional, bustling beer hall setting. I am not usually a lager fan, but I was certainly impressed.
After wiling away the afternoon we headed back to the heart of Munich’s historic centre, New Town Hall, and had dinner at Ratskeller, located beneath.
We enjoyed an authentic meal in the classic Bavarian style in a rustic, atmospheric setting. Dining here felt like stepping back in time, surrounded by centuries-old architecture and local flavours. And just for something different, I had a local wine with dinner!
A relatively early night was had, as we head to Prague tomorrow!
My favourite photo from today is this one from the Prince’s banquet hall, because you can see the sheer size of the rooms at Münich Residentz:
Hubby’s choice is this one of his sausage platter from Augustiner:
AKA Exploring Munich: the Horror, the History, and the Legacy of a City Reborn
We spent the morning, a sobering few hours, at the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial, reflecting on the haunting legacy of the Holocaust.
Dachau, the first Nazi concentration camp, was established in 1933 and became a symbol of the horrors that followed. Over 30,000 people died here, a number that pales in comparison to the millions who perished in the Holocaust. Originally built for 6,000, by the end of WWII, held 60,000!
Walking through the camp’s barracks, the haunting displays, and somber memorials, I was overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of human suffering that took place here. Such unimaginable, immeasurable pain that cannot be captured adequately in any words. The silence here felt heavy, as though the ghosts of the past still lingered.
The emotional weight of standing where atrocities were carried out served as a stark reminder of the dangers of hatred, intolerance, and unchecked power. The horror of war and the cruelty it unleashes, were brought into sharp focus.
As we caught the train back onto Munich, I was left with a sense of deep reflection on the fragility’s of humanity and I found it hard to “shift gears” from the experience of the camp.
But, there was a little bit of solace to be found in the lively atmosphere of Marienplatz, where we enjoyed a late lunch before embarking on a two-hour walking tour of Munich’s old town with our guide, Franz.
Munich is the capital of Bavaria, and a city where history and modernity blend seamlessly. From its early origins to the reconstruction after devastating bombings, Munich’s story is told through its architecture, culture, and traditions. Whether you’re walking through the cobbled streets or enjoying a stein of beer, the city’s rich heritage is all around you.
Bavaria, once an independent state, has always maintained a unique identity. Though now one of Germany’s 16 states, its history stretches back to centuries of Catholic tradition, its close cultural ties with Italy, and the preservation of its distinct heritage even as the Lutheran Reformation took hold elsewhere. Munich itself, named after the Old High German word for monk (“München”), was founded in 1158 and grew wealthy from its salt trade with neighbouring Salzburg. The city’s rich history comes to life as you wander through its historic streets, seeing how it evolved from fortified walls in the 1800s to a bustling metropolis that was devastated by WWII bombings – leaving 65% of the city destroyed.
Despite the destruction, much of Munich has been beautifully rebuilt, like the New City Hall (which was designed to look centuries old and remarkably survived the bombings).
We meandered through the old town and Franz explained the many layers of Munich’s identity, from its Saint Peter’s Church, which has been destroyed and rebuilt in different architectural styles, to the Hofbräuhaus, where beer was once brewed for the royal family before being opened to the public.
Saint Peter’s Church, or Peterskirche, is one of Munich’s oldest churches and has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times over the centuries, most recently in the Baroque style (during the Thirty Years’ War, a period marked by religious and political turmoil). The church is home to the relic bones of Saint Munditia, believed to offer blessings for single and lonely women; a quirky detail that adds to its charm.
We also learned about Bavaria’s shifting political landscape, with the Duke becoming the King of Bavaria in 1806 after aligning with Napoleon, and Munich’s transformation into a centre of culture, politics, and commerce. The move seemed like a good one at the time, but after Napoleon’s failed invasion of Russia, Bavaria’s fate took a dramatic turn. The Duke was crowned King Maximilian I of Bavaria, and from that point onward, the region would have a succession of kings, with a monarchy that lasted well into the 19th century.
For those fascinated by Bavaria’s royal history, Munich offers a glimpse into the opulent life of the monarchy. The Residenz, the former royal palace, offers a fascinating tour of rooms filled with priceless art and treasures.
Nearby, the Italian Bride Church, a beautiful Baroque structure, stands as a tribute to the region’s architectural influence and royal connections.
Munich is a city of contrasts: its history, steeped in both beauty and tragedy, is woven into every building and every street. From the darkness of Dachau to the lively atmosphere of Marienplatz and the tradition-filled beer halls, Munich offers a profound reflection on the resilience of a city and its people. It is a city that remembers its past while celebrating its future, carrying with it the lessons of history, the strength to rebuild, and the warmth of its unique culture.
Munich sits on low-lying land that is prone to flooding, which is why many important structures, including monasteries, were built on higher ground. One such monastery was established in the 11th century, and today the farmers’ market that operates six days a week sits on its grounds. Since 1854, the market has been a staple of local life, offering fresh produce, regional specialties, and an authentic taste of Munich.
Munich is synonymous with beer, and no visit would be complete without exploring the city’s brewing history. Munich is home to six major breweries, all of which must adhere to the traditional Reinheitsgebot, or German Beer Purity Law. This means that only beer brewed within the city, using local well water, can be served at Oktoberfest, the world-famous beer festival.
The origins of Oktoberfest date back to 1810 when King Ludwig I (then Crown Prince) married Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen. To celebrate, a massive public event was held, which eventually evolved into the Oktoberfest we know today. Originally a royal wedding celebration, the event has grown into the world’s largest beer festival, attracting millions from around the globe every year.
After the tour wrapped up, we visited the Weisses Brauhaus, a cosy beer hall known for its wheat beer and traditional Bavarian fare. It’s a place where the love of beer and good company comes together—truly a spot where locals and visitors alike can enjoy Munich’s finest offerings. I literally had the Love Beer and it was… well, love-ly!
We ended with a hearty meal of pretzels and a beer at the Hofbräuhaus—where, ironically, political movements like Hitler’s began to take root in the city’s beer halls.
No visit to Munich would be complete without experiencing its culinary delights. After a day of sightseeing, head to Hofbräuhaus for a hearty meal. The classic Bavarian dinner of pretzels, sausages, and roasted meats, washed down with a stein of beer, is a perfect way to end your Munich adventure.
Munich is a city where the old and the new exist side by side. Its history is rich, its beer is legendary, and its culture is a blend of Bavarian pride and international flair. From medieval walls to baroque churches, royal palaces to bustling beer halls, Munich offers a journey through time and is a city that honours its past and future.
My photo of the day is, this giant pretzel from Hopbrauhaus… of course:
Hubby’s favourite picture for today is from within the walls of New Town Hall:
AKA Exploring Frankfurt and a Winter’s Journey through Germany to Munich
Our adventure through Germany began with an early start as we left Brussels at 8am, ready for the next leg of the journey.
The train whisked us away to Frankfurt, a city with a fascinating blend of modernity and history. Known as the financial capital of Germany, Frankfurt is home to Europe’s Central Bank and boasts a stunning skyline of glass-and-steel towers.
However, it wasn’t always this way. Originally founded as a Roman settlement, Frankfurt grew as a trading hub in the Middle Ages and gained prominence as the site of the Holy Roman Empire’s imperial elections. Today, the city reflects its historical roots with charming old towns like Alt-Sachsenhausen, while its impressive skyscrapers reveal its role in global finance.
Upon arriving in Frankfurt, we took a leisurely stroll through the city centre, where modern architecture seamlessly intertwined with the older buildings. But, the air was cold and biting, and as snowflakes began to fall, the cobblestone streets became somewhat treacherous!
Soon it was time for lunch, so we made our way to “Dicke Butz”, a classic German restaurant, known for its hearty portions and rustic charm. Dicke Butz is beloved by locals and visitors alike. The name itself is playful, referring to a “chubby” butcher from the past, and the restaurant serves some of the best traditional German dishes around. I opted for a “wurst burger” – the perfect comfort food.
Unfortunately, the weather continued to be uncooperative, and we found ourselves battling miserable conditions, so we called it and boarded the next train bound for Munich.
As the train threaded its way across Bavaria, I was treated to a stunning journey; picturesque villages covered in a thick blanket of snow. The journey was nothing short of sublime, with rolling hills and charming houses dotting the landscape. The countryside, was still and serene, like a winter wonderland, and a complete contrast to the bustling city we had left behind.
Arriving in Munich, I couldn’t help but reflect on the beauty of the Bavarian countryside. Germany, in all its winter glory, has truly cast a spell on me.
Side note: We are travelling using a Eurail pass and the train network/service is exceptional! So exciting to see the trains reaching speeds of 250km (plus) and the seamless provision of connections across Europe has made for an extremely pleasing experience so far (well, except that one day we accidentally went to France).
My favourite photo from today is the Euro sculpture in Frankfurt. Ottmar Hörl created Euro-Skulptur in the late 1990s, producing two versions. One was placed at Frankfurt Airport, while the other is displayed at Willy-Brandt-Platz, near the European Central Bank’s former headquarters. The sculpture replaced the Euro clock and was first illuminated in 2002, marking the Euro’s introduction. It is now one of the most photographed landmarks in Frankfurt:
Hubby’s pick is our “waiter” delivering lunch today at Dicke Butz:
By Sarah 