By Sarah

AKA Exploring Vienna: A Day of History, Horses and Hops

Vienna is a city that effortlessly combines the ancient and the modern, offering a rich tapestry of culture, history, and tradition. From the soaring spires of St. Stephen’s Cathedral to the mesmerising Lipizzaner horses at the Spanish Riding School, there’s so much to see and experience.

No day in Vienna is complete without a leisurely breakfast. Today, I thought I would try a traditional Viennese breakfast: hard boiled egg, fresh bread, creamy butter, jam and honey, and strong coffee. I savoured the peaceful café atmosphere and was surprised at how filling (and yummy!) this simple breakfast was.

The first stop for today was St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom), one of Vienna’s most iconic landmarks. This Gothic masterpiece dominates the city’s skyline and is a must-see. We climbed the North Tower, where atop, we found breathtaking panoramic views of Vienna. Inside, the cathedral was equally impressive, with its intricate details, rich history and grand interior.

The Catacombs of St. Stephen’s was also open for exploration, so of course, this was a must! We took the guided tour which revealed a fascinating layer of the city’s past. You’ll find the Austrian bishop’s burials still happen here in present day, with crypts housing the remains of modern day clergy alongside those from centuries ago.

The Habsburg Crypt is particularly intriguing, with urns containing various body parts (lungs, livers, and kidneys) stored in urns of varying sizes. Some urns are placed inside larger ones, hinting at past leaks and preservation efforts.

Among the most striking features is a huge bronze fragment (the dinger if you will) of the original cathedral bell that is also houses here in the “stone museum” section. The new bell, is entirely made from reused materials from the old bell, now hangs in the tower as the third-largest bell in the world. It’s only rung 14 times a year – each time, a monumental task to perform. And there’s still more to discover in the crypt, including an active burial site for high-ranking priests.

The new catacombs, are not in fact “new”. They haven’t been in use for over 240 years, and their history offers an incredible glimpse into Vienna’s spiritual heritage, with it at the time, being available as a burial site for the everyday Viennese. In fact, it was so popular, the Nea Catacombs were almost full after only 40 years in operation. The size of the New Catacombs was staggering. We saw this firsthand with a glimpse into one of the burial rooms… of which there are twenty, over two levels, upper and lower. Like the Ossuary in Czechia, out of respect for the dead, no photos were permitted. This didn’t stop one lady and I was horrified as she even turned on her flash to get up close snaps of the bone room! Reminder: If you happen to visit, don’t be that jerk!

We then meandered (again) to Heldenplatz (Hero’s Square), a historic public square located in front of the Hofburg Palace. It holds significant importance in Austrian history, having been the site of numerous pivotal events, including Adolf Hitler’s announcement of the Anschluss (the annexation of Austria by Nazi Germany) in 1938. The square is flanked by monumental buildings, including the Neue Burg, a part of the Hofburg Palace complex.

Dominating the space is a statue of Archduke Charles, a hero of the Napoleonic Wars. Nearby, visitors can find the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art History) and Naturhistorisches Museum (Museum of Natural History), and the Heeresgeschichtliches Museum (Museum of Military History) which offers a deep dive into Austria’s military past.

Adjacent to the square is the Haus der Geschichte Österreich (House of Austrian History), which is a modern museum dedicated to Austria’s rich and complex history. It offers a comprehensive, free exploration of Austrian history, so how could we not?! We learnt about the monarchy through to the First and Second World Wars, and Austria inthe modern era. The exhibits were engaging and interactive with multimedia presentations. The museum presents the nation’s cultural, political, and social developments, in a fascinating way so visitors easily understand Austria’s past.

Next, we headed to the Spanish Riding School, where you can witness the legendary Lipizzaner horses. Despite the name, the horses are no longer Spanish. Originally bred in Spain, they have now been carefully cultivated in Austria, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Italy. There are over 300 Lipizzaners at the school, including both young horses and retired stallions. The most fascinating? The oldest horse, who, at 40 years old, still plays an active role in training.

The Baroque-style riding arena is a beauty in itself, commissioned by the father of Maria Theresa. The Winter Arena was built to ensure training could continue all year round, regardless of the weather. Aside from their rider trainers, horses are also trained in a mechanical horse walking machine, which can accommodate up to 19 horses at once. All horses are rotated between the inner city and countryside facilities, six months on and off, to allow for their overall wellbeing. Not all horses are trained in all skills. The skills are selected on the strengths of the individual gorses, which incidentally, are all stallions. Riders either focus on ground skills (red sash), aerial techniques (green sash), and complex “solo” tricks, which are taught using traditional methods passed down through generations.

Interestingly, the Lipizzaner horses start out dark grey but gradually lighten as they age, although there are the occasional, rare dark horses which are considered good luck to keep in the stables. The naming system for the horses, is from the 18th century; assigning a first name based on one of six sire lines and a second name from the mother’s lineage.

The Spanish Riding School has been UNESCO-protected for its oral traditions, and the rider training process takes around 10 years to complete. Women have been allowed to join since 2007, and the language of instruction is German, keeping the tradition alive in its original form. There are only 23 riders who are part of the school and each rider is allocated 5-10 horses to train and look after. Obviously there are a host of grooms who also assist with this.

After missing lunch, a quick snack was in order, so encouraged yesterday by our tour guide Michael, we stopped by a traditional Viennese sausage box. I had the cheese special with bread, and it was a rich, flavourful, and perfectly paired with mustard and sauce.

On the walk back to our accommodation, we took a moment to pop into St. Peter’s Church, This was a stroke of luck on our part, as an organ performance was in full swing, immersing us in (just a touch of) the music of Vienna. The church’s acoustics and stunning baroque design made for a magical experience.

For dimmer. we took a short walk to the 1516 Brewing Company for a refreshing pint of local beer. This brewery offered a great atmosphere to relax and sample some of the best brews. They had a wide range and “something for everyone” regardless of whether you’re a crisp lager or a dark stout kinda person.

My favourite photo from today was another tough one to choose, but I had to go with this shot of the (epic) pipe organs at Stehpensdom.

Hubby’s favourite photo today was the one of Austria’s parliament house:

AKA Discovering Vienna

If you’ve ever wondered what it feels like to step into a living museum, Vienna is the place to be.

Nestled in the heart of Europe, Austria’s capital is a city brimming with history, culture, and charm. Our tour guide, Michael, a Viennese local (born and bred), offered a captivating glimpse into this city’s past and present on this walking tour of Vienna’s Old Town. Here are some fascinating tidbits and insights that paint a picture of this vibrant European gem.

Austria may be a small country, with a population of just 9 million spread across 9 states, but Vienna, the capital, is a cultural powerhouse. The city is home to nearly 2 million residents and is renowned for its green spaces (with over 1,000 parks) and stunning architectural heritage. Despite its small size, Vienna is one of Europe’s fastest-growing cities, and renowned as the world’s most “livable city.” For me, I was very interested to learn there are vineyards located within the urban area. These vineyards benefit from the city’s unique climate; a blend of cold winters, hot summers, and lots of wind. This creates the perfect environment for producing high-quality wines.

Our tour focused on Vienna’s District 1, the Old Town. This district is a testament to the city’s fascinating history, with its rich mix of medieval, baroque, and modern structures. A highlight of the Old Town’s history is the fortification walls that once surrounded it. Standing 30 metres high and 10 metres thick, the walls were demolished in the mid-1800s under Emperor Franz Joseph I. They were considered redundant by that time, and the space was cleared to make way for the Ringstrasse, a grand boulevard that would become the heart of modern Vienna. The money raised from this redevelopment funded the construction of many iconic buildings, such as the Vienna State Opera and the Hofburg Palace.

However, much of Austria’s success in governing is attributed to Maria Theresa of Austria (1717–1780) who was one of Austria’s most significant rulers and the only female Habsburg monarch. It is a misnomer that she is called the Empress of Austria, as she never actually had a coronation. She implemented a wide range of reforms, many of which modernised the Austrian Empire. Key achievements include: making education compulsory for children, dramatically improving literacy and educational standards across her empire; and centralising government administration, and reducing the power of the church and nobility. She also reformed the legal and military systems and enacted policies to improve the living conditions of the poor She was particularly interested in welfare and healthcare. Michael told us that Maria Theresa is remembered for her strong leadership, the expansion of the Habsburg Empire, and her lasting influence on Austrian politics, culture, and society, and she remains one of the most beloved figures in Austrian history.

One of Vienna’s greatest assets is its public transportation system Wiener Lienen, making it an easy city to navigate. For as little as just 1 euro a day, you can travel throughout the city on buses, trams, and the U-Bahn subway system. Affordable housing is also a priority in Vienna, with around a quarter of residents living in community apartments that provide a stable and affordable living environment for low-income families.

For over 600 years, the Habsburg family ruled Austria, and their influence is still felt throughout the city. From their stunning palaces to their artistic patronage, Vienna remains the cultural epicentre of an empire that spanned much of Europe. During the 300 years of the Holy Roman Empire, Vienna was the political and cultural heart of Europe, and remnants of that grandeur can be found all around the city.

No visit to Vienna is complete without stopping by a traditional Würstelstand (sausage stand). These beloved stands have roots dating back to the imperial monarchy, originally set up to provide livelihoods for disabled veterans. One of the oldest stands still operating today is “Leo’s Würstelstand,” established in 1928. At these stands, you’ll not only find mouth-watering sausages but also a slice of Viennese humour. For example, a cheese sausage with bread is humorously called an “Eitrige mit an Buckl” (literally, “festering pus with a hunchback”) in local dialect. To wash it down, locals often enjoy a can of Ottakringer Beer from the 16th District.

Walking through Vienna’s streets, you encounter a stunning range of historic landmarks. The Albertina Museum, home to one of the most important art collections in the world, is a must-visit. Atop the sausage stand near the museum, you’ll find a nod to Dürer’s famous “Young Hare” in the form of a quirky green plastic rabbit.

Vienna’s iconic Vienna State Opera is a cornerstone of the city’s cultural scene. Renowned for its performances and extensive repertoire (a different show every night), the opera house is an institution. Michael mentioned that 30% of the city was destroyed during WWII, but the Opera House is one of the historical sites that managed to survive, standing tall as a symbol of Vienna’s resilience. In fact, a quirky piece of history, the original Pegasus statues from the Vienna State Opera roof were sold to the city of Philadelphia in the 1950s, where it now resides at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

We strolled past the iconic Sacher Hotel which aside from its luxurious 5-star accommodation, is known as the creator of the Sachertorte. The decadent Sachertorte is a rich chocolate cake with apricot jam, created in 1832 and still a must-try Viennese treat. I hope to try one tomorrow!

The Albertina Square also holds a sombre historical reminder. The Monument Against War is located there, and is a poignant reminder of Vienna’s turbulent history during WWII. Erected in memory of the victims of war and violence, it marks the spot where 400 bodies were left buried after a bombing in 1945. The memorial features a series of symbolic elements, including a street-washing Jewish man and barbed wire (which is not original but added to emphasise the horrors of conflict), encapsulating Vienna’s commitment to remembering the past and advocating for peace. It stands as a powerful tribute to those who suffered and a call for a future without war.

In Lobkowitz Square, we can find the Palais Lobkowitz, a place tied to the life of Ludwig van Beethoven. It was here that Beethoven’s symphonies were performed for the first time, and the venue also hosted events related to the Vienna Congress in the 19th century.

The Augustiner Church is another historic site that comes alive with stories of royal weddings and funerals. Michael told us how the church witnessed over 50 marriages of famous figures and also home to some Habsburg hearts, stored as part of the three part funeral practice.

The three-part funeral was a ceremonial tradition in Vienna, particular to royals and aristocrats, designed to honour the deceased with a series of solemn rituals. Here’s a breakdown:

1. The Departure Ceremony: Held at a church or palace, this involved a requiem mass and a formal procession, where mourners said their first goodbyes as the body was prepared for the journey. Heart were removed and stored in urns.
2. The Journey: The body was transported through the streets of Vienna, often in a grand procession with carriages and attendants, symbolizing the deceased’s passage from the world of the living to the dead. Other vital organs were removed and stored in metal boxes at a second site.
3. The Burial and Final Rest: The body was laid to rest in a royal tomb or family crypt, such as the Kapuzinergruft (Capuchin Crypt), followed by a final prayer service marking the end of the mourning period.

This elaborate funeral structure not only honoured the deceased, but also reinforced the power and continuity of the monarchy. Though rare today, the tradition remains a significant part of Vienna’s imperial legacy.

We passed by the impressive Imperial Library which holds precious manuscripts from Austria’s royal history and is another place I plan to investigate in more detail tomorrow.

Michael then told us about the importance of dance in Viennese culture. Vienna is renowned for its ballroom season, which runs from November to February, featuring over 600 balls. The most famous of these is the Vienna Opera Ball, but throughout the season, the city hosts elegant dances in grand venues, continuing a tradition that dates back to the Habsburg era.

The Spanish Riding School in Vienna is also world-famous for its Lipizzaner stallions, which perform intricate and beautiful dressage routines. These horses, trained in classical riding techniques, are often referred to as the “Spanish dancing horses” due to their graceful movements and the traditional Spanish riding style they follow.

Vienna is world-famous for its coffee house culture. The cafés are not just places to grab a drink, they’re a part of the social fabric of the city. Here, you’ll find locals sipping coffee with a glass of water by their side, and sometimes, even a side of “rudeness” from the waiters, which is an accepted (and proud) part of their culture. Vienna’s coffee houses have long been places for intellectuals, artists, and musicians to gather, and they remain central to the city’s cultural identity.

Vienna is known for its pure, crystal-clear water sourced directly from the Alps, which flows naturally into the city’s taps without the need for pumps, providing some of the best tap water in the world.

The Imperial Palace in Vienna, a symbol of the Habsburg dynasty, is Europe’s largest palace complex, blending architectural styles from the 13th century to modern-day, showcasing a mix of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque influences.

Heldenplatz (Hero Square) is a historic central square in Vienna, home to statues of famous military leaders and surrounded by grand buildings, serving as a symbol of Austria’s imperial past and its enduring national pride.

We then moved on to Vienna’s Plague Memorial (Pestsäule) which stands as a poignant reminder of the devastating impact of the bubonic plague on the city. The memorial, located in Graben, was erected in 1679 after a particularly deadly outbreak of the plague that wiped out a significant portion of the population.

The story behind it is tied to the city’s response to the epidemic. In 1679, Vienna experienced a severe plague outbreak that claimed thousands of lives. To mark the end of the crisis and give thanks for the city’s survival, Emperor Leopold I ordered the construction of the Pestsäule as an expression of gratitude and a plea for divine protection against future outbreaks.

The monument is an elaborate Baroque column, topped with a golden statue of the Holy Trinity, and surrounded by smaller sculptures depicting saints and angels. It’s a striking reminder of the trauma caused by the plague, but also of the resilience and faith that helped the city recover.

One of the most iconic landmarks in Vienna is St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The church is famous for its asymmetrical towers, one completed and one left unfinished due to financial constraints. While exploring, our guide shared a fascinating tidbit that during the construction of the subway system, workers uncovered a hidden chapel beneath the city. This unexpected find speaks to the layers of history beneath Vienna’s streets and is acknowledged above ground by the outline of the chapel (evident in the pavers on the street).

From its ancient walls and imperial palaces to its sausage stands and coffee houses, Vienna is a city steeped in history, culture, and charm. Whether you’re exploring the grandeur of its monuments or savoring a bite at a Würstelstand, every corner of Vienna has a story to tell. As Michael put it, this city is more than just a place – it’s a living testament to centuries of tradition, transformation, and the art of making life beautiful.

As an aside, today was the coldest I have been thus far on the trip! But Michael’s warmth and story telling; clear passion and knowledge, warmed my heart and created a special place for Vienna.

After the tour, we trialled Vienna’s public transport for ourselves, hopping on a U-Bahn (subway) and then took a tram to the Ottakringer Brewery for a late lunch and beers.

Despite Google informing us otherwise, the brewery was closed! But… there was a silver lining to be had. We stumbled upon an absolutely charming place instead, Schuhmeier. I enjoyed another local Wien red and a delicious penne. The vibe was cosy and the meal and service, excellent! A welcome relief from the bitter wind outside!

After a quick pitstop at our accommodation, we headed out for predinner drinks and an epic schnitzel feast at a Viennese institution, Figlmüller. The meal was outstanding (and huge!), the wine, delicious; and to top it off, some schnapps for dessert.

We took a stroll to walk off dinner, but this soon saw us opting for a second dessert at Kaffee Alt Wien, where we sampled some traditional apfel strudel.

My favourite photo from today is of these gorgeous guys from the Wiener Fiaker (Vienna Carriage Rides):

Hubby’s pick is this shot of the Imperial Library: