AKA an Epic Walking Tour Through History and Culture
Prague is a city steeped in rich history, stunning architecture, and fascinating stories. It’s a place where every street corner holds a tale, and every monument whispers its past.
We began our 6-hour epic tour at one of the most iconic sites in the city, Prague Castle. It had just started snowing as we started to explore, so was like a dusting of magic on top of the experience!
Construction began in the 9th century and it is the largest ancient castle in the world. Fun fact: It is not actually a castle in the traditional sense, but moreover the name of one of the five areas that span both banks of the Vltava River: the others being the Lesser Town (Malá Strana)the Old Town (Staré Město), with the Old Town Square at its heart; the New Town (Nové Město), with Wenceslas Square at its heart; and the Jewish Quarter (Josefov). Historically, each of these areas was its own fortified, and independently ruled precinct.
The sprawling complex of Prague Castle has been the seat of kings, emperors, and presidents. Dominating the skyline is St. Vitus Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece that took over 500 years to complete. Its intricate design and towering spires make it a focal point of the castle complex. St. Vitus Cathedral is also home to the arm of St Vitus which was given to King Wenceslas as a gift. The patron saint of Prague, St. Wenceslas soon met a tragic end when his younger brother, invited him to dinner, and then murdered him. His story is one of the many that ties deeply into Prague’s religious and political history.
As you wander through Prague Castle, you’ll come across Golden Lane, a picturesque street lined with small, colourful houses once inhabited by castle guards and craftsmen. This quaint street holds centuries of secrets, including tales of alchemists working to turn base metals into gold. Although an alternate history, tells that the gold is of another kind – with all these houses sharing but one toilet!
We continued our exploration, to the Otto Fak fortification wall, which once protected the city from invaders. To get a glimpse of Prague’s other side, we descended 101 steps to reach the “Lesser Town” below.
Prague’s history hasn’t always been smooth sailing. As well as being invaded many times over the years, natural disasters have also wreaked havoc on the city. Both the 1880s and 2002 saw devastating floods that inundated the city, almost destroying Charles bridge and the zoo. In response, protective metal barriers have now been installed to shield the city from future natural disasters.
As you stroll through Prague’s streets, keep an eye on the red and blue street numbers on the buildings. These numbers represent two different historical systems: blue for buildings constructed before 1770, and red for those built after.
We stopped for lunch at a local Pivivor and Ristaurace (brewery and restaurant), Vojanův Dvůr, where we sampled traditional Czech food and I tried the Rubinovy special beer. Delicious!
Walking along Charles Bridge, one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, I marvelled at the numerology behind the bridge’s construction date. As legend has it, Charles was a believer in numerology and construction began at exactly 5:31 am on July 9 1357. In doing this he created a numeric palindrome — 1357 9/7 5:31 believing it would ensure the bridge would withstand the tests of time (the river Vltava, is strong and often floods).
In total, it took 45 years to complete the bridge and we learnt that its foundations, were bound using eggs – an unusual, but effective construction method. As the only crossing across the river at the time, the bridge greatly increased trade through Prague and therefore, its wealth.
The bridge, which dates back to the 14th century, is also adorned with 30 statues, to symbolise Prague’s devotion to religion. However, these statues are a later addition with the majority of these installed between 1683 and 1714 by the best sculptors in Bohemia. They are in a Baroque style and show a range of saints that are important to Prague. Since 1965, the original statues have been moved to the National Museum in Wenceslas Square to preserve them. Those found on the bridge are excellent replicas.
The Charles Bridge is steeped in legend, with tourists encouraged to touch three specific spots for good luck. St. John of Nepomuk, a priest who was tortured and thrown to his death from the bridge into the Vltava River, is central to these. Two versions of the story explain his death: one suggests he clashed with King Wenceslaus IV over a political matter, while the other claims he was the confessor to the king’s wife, and refused to reveal her secrets when asked by the king.
Beneath the statue of St. John, two bronze plaques can be found. One depicts his death, and the other shows a knight with his dog. Rubbing the plaque of St. John being thrown into the river is said to ensure a return to Prague, while rubbing the knight and dog plaque promises loyalty, a lasting relationship, or good luck. Both plaques shine from being touched by countless visitors and our local guide, Susanna said this practice is typically thought to have originated from tourists though, and is not authentic local lore.
However, further along the bridge, there is a small bronze cross marking the spot where John fell into the river. Below the cross, an image of his body in the water also shines. Placing each finger of your left hand on the corresponding star and standing with you right foot forward is believed to grant a wish that will come true within a year and a day. Susanna verified this as being the truthful folklore.
Just below the bridge, you’ll find the Devil’s Channel, a waterway once used to divert water from the Vltava River. There are also a series of locks on the Vltava River which are used to control water levels and navigation. These locks allow boats to pass through the river’s varying elevations, which is essential given the river’s flow through the city and its surrounding areas. The most famous locks are located near the city centre, and the system is vital for maintaining the river’s navigability.
The Old Town Bridge Tower and the two Malá Strana Bridge Towers, built in Gothic style, have played a key role in defending Prague. The city witnessed the start and end of the Thirty Years’ War, as well as the 1618 Defenestration of Prague, which sparked the conflict. In 1648, as peace talks were underway in Westphalia, the Swedes launched an assault on Prague, aiming to loot it. With 13,500 men, they took Hradčany and Malá Strana but were stopped by 2,000 Bohemian soldiers and the Charles Bridge. After fierce fighting, the Swedes were repelled and unable to capture the Old Town, though they sacked Malá Strana. The battle is commemorated by the restored Marian Column in Old Town Square.
After a meander and time spent exploring the bridge, we caught the (authentic and old school!) no. 2 tram across to the New Town (which is not actually “new”… just being built in the 1400s makes it newer than the rest!)
We perused Wenceslas Square which stands as a testament to Prague’s modern history. It was here, in 1968, that Soviet tanks rolled in, marking a dark chapter in the city’s history during the invasion of Czechoslovakia, and Susanna told us the stories of two activists who gave their lives for their country’s freedom.
Our Lady of the Snow Church (Kostel Panny Marie Sněžné) is a Baroque church in Prague’s New Town. Originally built in the 14th century and rebuilt in the 17th century, it features beautiful Baroque artwork and architecture. The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary under the title of Our Lady of the Snow. It’s located near Jungmannovo náměstí square. Its unassuming façade belies the stunning interior and 35m high vaulted ceiling.
We walked the back streets and alleys, making our way to the Old Town where we were just in time (pardon the pun), for the Astronomical Clock. This medieval marvel not only tells time but also tracks celestial movements. When the clock strikes, the intricate figures come to life, a display that has captivated visitors for centuries. Susanna explained the different times it tells and how to “read” the clock.
Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) is a historic and picturesque landmark at the heart of the city’s Old Town. This vibrant public space is surrounded by stunning medieval architecture, including the iconic Church of Our Lady before Týn and the Old Town Hall. The square has been the site of numerous significant events throughout history, from royal coronations to public executions. Today, it serves as a hub for both locals and tourists, with lively cafés, shops, and street performers adding to its dynamic atmosphere.
Susanna, told us how over the years the terrain of the square has been raised to expose the numerous underground cellars, which now serve as variety of pubs, restaurants and cafes; and how the town hall is missing a wing, due to being bombed by the Nazis after discovering a Czech resistance group operating from beneath.
The tour finished by exploring the Jewish Quarter, one of the oldest Jewish districts in Europe. We visited synagogues and the old cemetery which helped us to understand Prague’s complex cultural and religious history, particularly in the context of WWII.
To wrap up our adventure, we embarked on a one-hour cruise down the Vltava River, offering a relaxing way to take in the beauty of the city from the water. It was also the perfect opportunity to warm up with a gluhwein after being out in the cold and snow!
Susanna was truly a fantastic local guide and I highly recommend the tour.
After a fantastic day of exploration, dinner also, amazing. We went to U Fleků Pivovar and Restaurant and I kicked off with a traditional Czech shot (think schnapps-esque but cinnamon infused). I enjoyed a dinner of sausages with beer bread, sauerkraut, horseradish, sauce and mustard. And of course a pilsner or two.
The history of the brewery, is fascinating in itself. The first written documentation of a brewery on this site dates back to 1499 when the house was bought by maltster Vít Skřemenec. The brewery U Fleků is one of few breweries in Central Europe which has been brewing continuously for over 500 years.
It was nationalised with the onset of the communist rule, but the original owners, the Brtník family, regained the brewery and restaurant in 1991, after the fall of the regime. The pivovar is stylish in its decoration and furniture. It has fables of celebrities from the 19th and early 20th century used to meet, here in the hall called “Václavka” with stained glass windows, or the Knights‘ Hall.
U Fleků is not only a famous Czech restaurant, but also a pilgrimage site for all beer lovers, both Czech and foreign. The staff were excellent (attentive) and the offer of Old-Bohemian dishes satisfied all gourmets!
Prague’s unique blend of history, culture, and architecture makes it a city like no other. From its medieval streets and royal castles to its modern-day landmarks, the city tells a story of resilience, beauty, and transformation that continues to captivate the heart of any visitor.
My favourite photo of the day was incredibly difficult to choose, but I have gone with this humorous shot of the castle guard giving our guide the “side-eye” as she walked by 😆
Hubby’s choice for picture of the day is:
By Sarah 