Info found here.

I find the streaming video (doesn't play on firefox for some reason) a bit tedious to sit through since I already work my stranded colorwork 2 handed and just need a refresher on how to weave the colors together. I also don't care for how she describes the two weaving methods stitches in their own right. Anyway....

When the left hand yarn is being woven in: insert the needle tip as usual to knit, but instead of holding the left hand yarn under the needle tip and out of the way, hold the yarn over the needle tip. Work the stitch with the right hand as usual. This should be in-between two stitches which have been worked normally.

When the right hand yarn is being woven in: insert the needle tip as usual to knit, wrap the right hand yarn, pick the left hand yarn, unwrap the right hand yarn, pull the stitch through. Again, this should be in-between two stitches which have been worked normally.

Only gets done when there are stretches of more than 2-3 stitches of one color.

I'm currently testing this out with a Twins' ski cap and unfortunately it does show through a bit when the color contrast is so strong. I may switch to catching the floats by twisting instead and see how it goes. (ETA: tried it and it shows through as well, although only on one side of the stitch instead of both, but it's annoying to work since it eliminates the anti-twisting benefits of working 2-handed.)

One thing it's really good for, though, is even tension because the float doesn't "float", it's caught into the back of the fabric.

Now, time to rip the rows I've got and try it out with smaller needles since I didn't do a swatch and I'm coming in around 5st/inch which is a little too big. Given that I'm a loose knitter, this was not exactly unexpected.

Oh, and I forgot the bit about color dominance. The yarn held closer to the needle tends to "pop" more than the other color, due to how the yarn intertwines. I believe when working 2 handed that this would be the yarn in the left hand. So, the background color should be in the right hand.

So, there's been a lot of brioche stitch impinging on my awareness in the last couple weeks, and I'm in need of a quick knit, so I started one of those convertible hat/neck warmer thingies. In my own design, but that's mostly because I'm lazy.

I've got 2 videos and a bunch of pictures of working 2-color brioche stitch in the round, which means alternating one row of k2tog with a row of p2tog, along with all the yo and sl1. Actually, working 2-color brioche in the round is almost exactly the same as working single color brioche in the round. Only you get these neat vertical stripes instead of plain ribbing.
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Once again, this is identical in content to the one over at weasleysweaters, I just wanted to make sure I had a copy here. Cut for the blah blah blah.

Boy, I need a snack. But thank heavens that's done.

And wouldn't you know the camera shows how much the fabric needs washing? I should wash and block the bag again now that the lining is in. And figure out what to use for the straps and closure.

But I fixed the edging. It ripped very easily and I was able to redo it. So all in all, I am very pleased with how this bag has turned out.

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This is identical to the one I just posted on weasleysweaters. I just like having it here too.

And yes, I backdated the one there so it was still technically Wednesday. I figure, what's an hour when it's still Wednesday night? Yeah, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Oh, and the embroidery design? Made it myself yesterday. It's hummingbird wings traced on a "ball" which was actually me tracing a pencil sharpener which just happens to be a circle. I do the best I can with my pathetic inability to draw even the simplest of designs.

Whew, now one more for this month and September is in the bag and I can relax a bit.

Oh, wait, I've got that story to finish, don't I? *facepalm*


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Everyone has one, but I might as well give mine too.

Keep in mind I don't really keep track of what I'm doing. It's like cooking as opposed to baking. Knitting is baking. Dyeing is cooking.

Keep in mind I also don't really know much about dyeing. This is mostly just playing around. I can get predictable results with wool and wool/mohair blends but every time I work with silk it turns out unexpectedly.

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On the left is me. On the right is me flipped 180° on the horizontal in an effort to make it comprehensible for lefties. Any errors in crochet are from my extreme ignorance. I just know enough to get me by in finishing my knitting.

I hope this works....
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The principle is really straightforward but I wanted to get it down somewhere so I could say "read this!" instead of having to explain it whole cloth every time.

Most people start out being told that circular needles have to have about the same length as the circumference of the piece which is being worked. At most, they can be 1-2" longer or any amount shorter as long as the stitches aren't too crowded. It's very simple to adjust a long needle for use in smaller circumferences, however. Simply pull a loop of the needle's cable out between two stitches and use it to take up the slack cable.

Note: This is not the "Magic Loop" technique, it's just something folks have been doing since circs were invented, and loads of people think it up themselves out of necessity. It doesn't require a super long needle. I've had it workable for needles as short as 29", but any shorter becomes uncomfortable. The needle pictured in the following is a 29" US#11.

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I-cord is a thin tube of knitting used for embellishments and such.

It generally turns out best when relatively tightly knit with a relatively elastic yarn.

It requires 2 double pointed needles:

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some info on combined, in pics (click on the thumbnails for larger pics).

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These guidelines can be adapted to just about any weight yarn and any stitch pattern. One thing to keep in mind if cabling, however, is that cabling cinches in the width, so it's probably in one's interest to cast on a few extra stitches for the back of the hand to compensate (since one wouldn't want cables on the inside of the palm). These plain stockinette mittens are not particularly large, and took less than 50g of a light worsted weight yarn worked on US#7s (Harrisville Designs Highland Style wool, 100g=200yds or 183m). I've made larger ones using 1 entire 100g ball of bulky weight yarn on US#9s, also with a doubled cuff (Phildar Superwash Lenox Bulky, 100g=110yds or 100m). They can also be patterned, etc. if desired.


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