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Category Archives: Beaches
Thursday Doors – Blue
Posted in Arts and Crafts, backpacking, Beaches, Cathedrals, Europe, Greek islands, Greek Taverna, History, Hotels, Literature, Malta, Postcards, Travel, World Heritage
Tagged Blue Doors of Greece, Childhood, Greece, Malta, Memories, Turkey
Malta – A Fantasy Historical Flight
“Odyssey is an industry-first initiative that seamlessly integrates immersive storytelling and informative scene-setting shows with a historical, story-driven flying theatre ride. Get ready to step into a world where history comes alive”
Our plan was to walk north along the coast to the nearby village of St Julian’s and depending upon the weather maybe even further, if things turned out badly then we could always get a bus back to Sliema.
For the time being at any rate the weather this morning was fabulous.
I don’t know this for sure of course but I imagine that the east coast of Malta used to be a string of villages with green space between them but rapid commercial and tourist development has morphed them into one long homogeneous strip of continuous concrete, high rise and tarmac.
I admit that I have a tendency to lament the passing of time, to be gloomy about the passing of the past. The loss of heritage. On this walk I found myself weighed down by nostalgia and despondency in equal measures. Maybe I should try harder to welcome the change, embrace the present and look forward to the future. I should use full beam going forward rather than looking in the rear view mirror. I need to add a dash of hope to my cocktail. The historian in me makes this difficult.
St Julian’s in the 1960s…
… and almost all of this gone, swept away in a frenzy of hasty development and here in the east much of the previous charm of Malta has been hollowed out and now there is high rise where once there were traditional homes, Starbucks where there were corner bars, McDonalds where there were tavernas. Malta has the fastest growing economy in Europe and it shows and there is a swift, maybe reckless transition from the old to the new and the development demonstrates impatient haste.
This what St Julian’s looks like now from the roof terrace of the tallest building (for now at least) in Malta…
So today we were visiting a new visitor attraction called ‘The Odyssey’. There are a number of these audio-visual shows in Malta and this is the newest. Last year we went to something similar in the Bastion fort in Valletta which raced through history and concentrated on the WW2 siege of Malta. It was very good.
So, we booked on line and got a late morning slot. I really don’t like that booking online business and being tied down to a time slot, it takes all of the spontaneity out of visiting and travelling always having to have one eye on the time. It strips out the casual and and the impromptu and replaces it with timetables and an alarm. And you no longer get proper tickets just an email confirmation and a QR code.
I know, I know…
Anyway, it was rather good, a few light shows, some films and some animations and then we were strapped into our seats for our flight over Malta.
I wasn’t exactly sure why it was called ”Odyssey” but it turned out to have a connection with Homer’s epic poem ‘The Odyssey“. Now after the hero Odysseus had fooled the Trojans with his wooden horse prank and the war was over he set off home for the island of Ithaca, a couple of hundred miles away at most near the island of Kefalonia. but he managed to find himself over seven hundred miles away in Malta. That was either one hell of a storm or navigational aids weren’t especially reliable two thousand years ago.
So, what is the Malta connection you might well ask? Well, it took Odysseus ten years to make the journey home but seven of them he spent in Calypso’s Cave on nearby island of Gozo, lured there and kept prisoner there by the nymph Calypso.
A nymph (or nymphomaniac) is by the way is (according to Wiki) a woman with an excessively strong, uncontrollable sexual desire also known as hypersexuality or sex addiction.
I wonder why he stayed for seven years?
It was a good experience, well worth the entrance fee even though the final ten minutes was obviously sponsored by the Malta Tourist Board but it finished with an express lift ride to the thirty-fourth floor and a panoramic view of the entire island.
Nothing left to do now except walk back to Sliema, stopping now and again to sit in the December sunshine, lament a little and reminisce a lot as we told each other about travels past.
Later we choose a different restaurant quite close to where we were staying, it was good and we agreed that we might return tomorrow. We are like that, if we find somewhere we like we will go back, no point taking unnecessary gastro risks.
Review of the Year 2025
As we leave 2025 please excuse my annual self-indulgent post to begin the new year as I peer through the keyhole to look back over the last one.
The top ten most visited posts on my Travel Blog always surprise me but then I don’t pretend to understand how search engines work. I say visited pages rather than read because I am neither so conceited or sufficiently naive to claim that a visit equals a read. I know that a lot of people will arrive here by mistake and swiftly reverse back out via the escape button!
I have been posting my Review of the Year since 2009 ( I know – that is so sad) and mostly there has been little change year on year but in 2025 there has been a bit of movement…
No. 1
The Taste of India – The Vesta Ready Curry Meal
Straight in at number 1. First posted in December 2024 and recording the highest number of visits in 2025 at 2090.
In the 1970s we had Vesta Ready Meals, six of them to choose from, Chow Mein (China), Beef Curry (India), Chicken Supreme (France), Paella (Spain), Chicken Curry (India again) and Beef Risotto (Italy), one for everyday of the week except Sunday I guess when you could still do a traditional roast if you really wanted to.
After a holiday in India earlier in the year and enjoying the curry I set out to recreate the Vesta Ready Meal.
No. 2
I first posted this in March 2010 so this one has been around a while and with 876 hits and a sixteenth year in the Top Ten it is becoming a stubborn stayer. In 2025 it has only dropped one place to number 2. It is also No. 3 in all time page views with 22,690 recordings. It has been viewed every month since first posted.
No. 3
Sicily, Taormina – A Royal Scandal and an Exotic Garden
First posted in July 2023 after a holiday in Taormina in Sicily and a second showing in the top 10, up one place . In 2025 it had 756 visits and there seems no good reason for that except some people seem to enjoy a royal scandal.
No. 4
The Little Chef All Day Breakfast
A bit of a surprise this one, first posted February 2021 and popping up in the Top Ten for the first time four years later with 705 visits.
Little Chef was most famous for its all day breakfast which thanks to a standardised corporate menu was pretty much similar in all of the restaurants. If you went for a breakfast then you knew exactly what you were going to get.
In one of my rare food blogs I set out to recreate the famous breakfast.
No. 5
Entrance Tickets – Malta and the Mellieha WW2 Shelters
A third year in the Top 10 Top and retaining the number 5 position, this is a post from 2017. 550 visits in 2025 up by 100 from the previous year.
In Spring 2015 we spent a few days on the island of Malta. This was a bit of an experiment on my part because I wanted to see if Kim liked it there as much as I do. It is sometimes said that you either love Malta or you hate it, it is like Manchester United or Marmite, there are no half measures, there is no sitting on the fence.
Kim liked it and we have been back several times, this picture was taken just a couple of weeks back, it looks like Kim is reflecting over our previous visits…
No. 6

A real slow burner this one, first posted in July 2012 but staying in the Top Ten for a second year up 4 places and an extra 120 viewings,
Cameras and mobile phones are strictly forbidden because the authorities don’t want snapshots of Comrade Lenin turning up on the internet in Blogs or on Trip Advisor reviews so they have to be left in a locker room and if anyone tries to defy this and is caught by the thorough security checks then their punishment is to be sent to the back of the queue to start lining up all over again.
I didn’t take these pictures, I obeyed the rules but someone else must have sneaked a camera in…
No. 7
The Unlikely Story of Saint Lucy
First posted in January 2013 and entering the Top Tem in 2025 at number 7 with 460 visits.
St. Lucy was a martyr who was one of the earliest Christian saints to achieve popularity, having a widespread following before the 5th century. Because of various traditions associating her name with light (Latin – Lux) she came to be venerated as the patron of sight and the blind and was depicted by medieval artists carrying a dish containing her eyes.
No. 8
Taormina, Sicily – A Little Disappointing
Sometimes I like a place immediately and sometimes I don’t. Even within the first hour of arriving and sitting on the balcony with a fine view I knew straight away that I didn’t like Taormina. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but it was there nagging away at me.
My immediate impression was that it was all rather like Sorrento or Positano, a place on bucket lists for no good reason other than it is on a bucket list. Personally I prefer Naples, Palermo and Bari, places with grit and grunge and character. I just instinctively knew that this place would not measure up.
Surprisingly staying in the Top Ten for a second year with 453 hits
No. 9
The Treasures of Spain – Antoni Gaudi
A newcomer this year but I can’t say for certain because it might have been here before and then dropped out, 390 visits.
No. 10
A genuine newcomer this one with 375 visits. In 2019 I went on a stag party weekend to the city of Berlin. When the youngsters went drinking my brother Richard and I went on a tour of the city.
Dropping out of the Top Ten this year
This post has been in the Top Ten every year but sadly drops out in 2025.
In total it has 25,000 visits which makes all time top of the list, this year overtaking my 2011 post about Norway, Haugesund and the Vikings at 24,800.
This one has been around for a long time and has always been popular especially around the Spring and Summer when invitations to the Royal Garden Party are going out and when people are wondering how to get one or what to wear if they have one.
Another post that has been visited every month since first published.
Bratislava to Vienna Without a Passport
Catalonia – In Search of Norman Lewis
Passage Through India – Travel and Arrival
Sicily – A Sunset and Trouble with a Mosquito
If you have read one of these posts or any of the 3,600 others on my site ‘Have Bag, Will Travel’, then thank you from the bottom of my heart!
I guess it proves that George Bailey (It’s A Wonderful Life) was right when he said: “The three most exciting sounds in the world are anchor chains, plane motors and train whistles.”
Total visits in 2024 – 59,760 (up almost 10% on 2024
Total visits all time – 1,306,400
Countries where most visitors come from – UK, USA and Spain. Same as last year.
Posted in Arts and Crafts, Asia, Beaches, Bratislava, Cathedrals, Europe, Food, Greece, History, Literature, Malta, Natural Environment, Portugal, Postcards, Travel, Wordpress, World Heritage
Tagged Antoni Gaudi, Berlin Wall, Bratislave, Farol Norman Lewis, Lenin, Lenin Mausoleum, Little Chef, Mellihea Malta, Mount Vesuvius, Passport, Saint Lucy, Sicily, Taormina, Vesta Ready Meal, Wonderful Life.
Istanbul and Across the Bosphorus to Asia
I am still to acquire confidence about those ticket machines where you use your debit/credit card which is silly I know but there you go, it is what it is so we found a boat that was preparing to leave and dealt only in cash.
So, tickets bought and paid for, very reasonable price actually, we sat on the top deck in the sunshine until time to go. Time to go is advertised was 12 o’clock but as it turned out (in my opinion) time to go was when the boat had got enough passenger revenue to make the journey worthwhile. So we sat long after scheduled departure time until the captain or the skipper or the driver or whatever he is was sufficiently satisfied with the number of passengers, cast off and set off.
The Bosphorus is an interesting stretch of water, the only way in or out of the Black Sea to the north so an important passage to have strategic control of which I suppose explains why Istanbul is where it is. Previously this was Constantinople of course under the Roman Empire.
The boat set off and crossed the channel to the Asian side and followed a course close to the east bank and I confess that I was geographically confused and I have become subsequently convinced that we were not on the Bosphorus proper at all but rather a tributary because for a major shipping lane out of Eastern Europe there was a curious absence of large ships or tankers just a never ending procession of theses small tourist boats.
We were actually on a fjord like inlet called the Golden Horn.
The cruise lasted for ninety minutes there or thereabouts and I wasn’t overly disappointed when it was over and we returned to the pier for disembarkation. These river cruises are ok but I would much prefer to be walking the streets. I am not sure that I could do a week or so on a river cruise, I think that I might go mad with boredom.
A lot of time left now for the remainder of the day to do some walking so we crossed the Bosphorus (or maybe not the Bosphorus, I am still not sure) and went over the water into Asia. I might be wrong on this point but I believe Istanbul is the only city in the World which straddles two continents.
I was expecting it to be different to the European side but this wasn’t what I was expecting because it wasn’t. East and West in Istanbul are very, very similar it has to be said.
From the bridge there is a massive hill to climb and we didn’t fancy that so we looked for the funicular railway. I am not a big fan of funicular railways especially after what happened in Lisbon recently but I didn’t fancy the climb either so we took the one hundred and fifty year old funicular to the top.
At the top we looked for the Galata Tower which promised grand views over the Bosphorus and the city but there was an entrance fee of €30. €30 to join a queue and then climb sixty metres for grand views of the Bosphorus when I am already enjoying grand views of the bosphorus from the bottom of the tower. Some people have more money than sense. I was coming to the point of view that Istanbul is getting greedy.
We declined and went to find somewhere for lunch.
After lunch we walked the streets for a while and I wanted to find the Pera Palace Hotel which was was opened in 1892 as a grand hotel for the rich and the famous travelling from Paris to Istanbul on the Orient Express. They would arrive in the city at Sirkeci terminus on the European side of the water and then be transported by taxi across the Golden Horn to this grand hotel.
Over the years guests included Greta Garbo, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Alfred Hitchcock, Ernest Hemingway (he crops up everywhere of course), Jacqueline Kennedy and Agatha Christie who is said to have written her novel “Murder on the Orient Express” during her extended stay there in the early 1930s.
Other famous guests were Kemal Ataturk, the founder of modern Turkey (more on him later), the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and Edward VIII of Great Britain.
It is always interesting to see how the rich and famous live or lived but not being rich and famous and never will be we left, took the funicular railway back to the bottom, crossed the bridge and returned to Europe.
Later we walked from the hotel to the seafront and to the fish market where we examined the menus in he adjacent restaurants and bars and thought that we might come back later but after an hour or so on the terrace later got later and later, wine and laziness took over so we abandoned the idea and went to a nearby restaurant instead which turned out to be a very good decision.
The Pera Palace Hotel…
Posted in Arts and Crafts, Asia, Beaches, Cathedrals, El Cid, Europe, History, Knights of St John, Literature, Travel, Turkey, World Heritage
Tagged Agatha Christie, Bosphorus, Bosphorus River Cruise, Ernest Hemingway, Galata Tower, Kemal Ataturk, Murder on the Orient Expressder on, Pera Palace Hotel, River Cruise
East Meets West in Istanbul
Straddling the narrow border between Europe ans Asia, Istanbul is where everything collides, Christianity and Islam and the cultural chasm between east and west.
Istanbul has been on the wish list for several years but we have never quite managed to get there. Until this year. So before departure I did my usual preparation and research.
Istanbul is a very big city, ranked by population within city limits it is the largest in Europe and with a population of almost sixteen million it is the seventeenth largest city in the World.
After a short delay leaving Manchester airport due to some air traffic control issue because of a dispute in Italy we arrived at Istanbul airport at about midday and the size statistics just kept on coming. It is the seventh largest airport in the World by passenger numbers and the second busiest in Europe after London Heathrow and narrowly nudging out Paris who cheat anyway by combining statistics from three airports.
It is so big that it took the Easyjet plane fifteen minutes to taxi from the runway to the terminal building and then fifteen minutes or so walking through the terminal to the arrivals desk where there was a queue of another fifteen minutes. Then another fifteen minutes walking to the metro station. All of these fifteen minutes were adding up but at least we were getting our steps in.
Turkey is placed fifty-first in the Human Development Index which means that it is the bottom half of most highly developed countries. The Index ranks countries by level of ‘human development’ and the statistic is composed from data on life expectancy, education and per-capita gross national income. Turkey does well because of a good education system and a well developed health and welfare record.
It is rated ninety-fourth in the World Happiness Index, which may not sound very impressive but is three places above the United Kingdom. Finland, Denmark and Iceland are all walking on sunshine, having placed first, second and third respectively in the happiness index.
Turkey has twenty UNESCO World Heritage Sites which is an average sort of number bearing in mind the ancient history of the country. Maybe there is more waiting to be discovered. Who knows?
Being in the Mediterranean the country has always participated in the Blue Flag Beach scheme.
The Blue Flag beach award was originally conceived in France in 1985 where the first coastal municipalities were awarded the Blue Flag on the basis of criteria covering standards relating to sewage treatment and bathing water quality.
Two years later, 1987 was the ‘European Year of the Environment’ and the concept of the Blue Flag was developed as a European initiative by the Foundation for Environmental Education in Europe to include other areas of environmental management such as waste disposal and coastal planning and protection and in that first year two hundred and forty four beaches from ten countries were awarded the new Blue Flag status.
Turkey has five hundred and sixty seven Blue Flag beaches in almost six thousand miles of coastline, it is third behind Spain and then Greece.
My next measure is always the Eurovision Song Contest and Turkey has participated in the annual contest thirty-four times since its debut in the 1975. It hasn’t performed especially well it has to besaid but did win the competition just once in 2003 (UK came last that year ( Gemini – cry Baby)) but then about ten years later fell out with the organising committee over something trivial and has not competed since. Well, that is their loss.
Here is the 2003 winning entry…
After negotiating the cavernous airport our next test was getting onto the metro. It was well signposted and we made it to barriers where the next task was buying a ticket. There were automatic ticket machines with an English language option but the problem was that the English language option was written in Chinese.
We missed the first train whilst we tried to work it out and then we bought way too much credit than we really needed, not just for this journey but for the rest of the week.
The metro journey was relatively straightforward even including a change of lines and I thought that I had got the hang of things when we emerged blinking into the sunlight in where I mistakenly thought was close to our accommodation.
How wrong was I. We had no city map and without internet no Google Maps so we wandered about helplessly for a while and asked directions. People seemed to be trying to be genuinely helpful but their directions made no sense to me so after a short while of city arrival confusion we broke a golden rule and took a taxi. And as usual I got a mad taxi driver who drove as though he was in a formula one race and shouted all the time on his mobile phone.
Upon arrival our first reaction was one of disappointment with our accommodation, very basic and rather like a hostel than an apartment but it was clean and the owner was friendly and gave us a beer and there was a big sunny terrace so we approved it and settled in and that was about it for the day, we were tired so we just did nothing except go to a nearby supermarket for some wine.
But the supermarket had no wine, what is the point of having your own supermarket that has no wine?
Anyway, all was not lost, there was a little corner shop opposite the apartment and he had wine so we made our purchase went back to the terrace and let the rest of the afternoon slip carelessly through our fingers.
An A to Z of Portugal – Z is for Zanbujeira do Mar
It has been a bit of a slog getting past the end of the alphabet for this series of posts about Portugal and at times I have had to use my imagination, Q, Y and X have been a challenge and now I arrive at Z and to my surprise and thanks to my diaries I have a genuine Z.
This is the beach at Zanbujeira on the west coast in the region of Alentejo…
We had considered walking to Zanbujeira along the coastal path from Odeceixe but that was a trek of roughly twenty miles or so which is a bit beyond our maximum daily limit of about twelve so we decided to drive there instead the following day when we were leaving Odeceixe and heading inland to the city of Beja.
First of all we drove through the village to a vantage point on the cliffs above the beach which was being pounded by Atlantic rollers. It was a fabulous day with a clear blue sky and a glorious beach panorama spreading for miles and miles, miles and miles, miles and miles away to the south all the way to Lisbon I guess, a never ending ribbon of silver sand slithering like a snake and a foaming surf stretching away into infinity and beyond. Maybe ten thousand miles or so, who knows?
A walk along the beach was out of the question because I didn’t want to get sandy shoes and take it back to the hire car, some hire companies get difficult about that when taking them back so we stayed for a while, admired the view and then returned to the village.
The picturesque streets were decorated with lazy bunting as it seems there had been a festival the weekend previously which didn’t really surprise me because we have a habit of turning up in a place when the party is over or will be taking place shortly after we leave. Zanbujeira was no exception to this rule.
There was a steep climb to the top of the village which took us through empty streets, a sleeping cat in the middle of the road who was clearly confident that there was no danger, the church (closed) and the cemetery (locked gates) until we reached the top and the village windmill, which is no longer required for its original purpose but is retained now as a sort of heritage museum piece. It was closed of course. There were wonderful sweeping views from the top looking east to the farms and fields and west to a crawling river and the wild sea beyond.
We had a busy schedule today and a drive of a hundred miles or so to Beja so we didn’t stay long just a quick stop in a pavement cafe where I came across an appropriate beer and then we moved on.
After a short while we stopped for coffee in the delightful village of Cercal where they were preparing for a festival, a tomato throwing festival as it happened, which was to take place next weekend. The region is famous for tomatoes it turns out and this was another narrowly missed party.
On reflection probably best that we missed that one because I might have got away with a few drains of sand in the footwell but almost certainly not tomato juice all over the upholstery.
So after a short while and just in case there might be an unscheduled rehearsal we set off across the Alentejo to Beja stopping only once to buy some Zanbujeira Cerveja,
So that is my Portugal A to Z concluded, next up I will tell you about a few days in Istanbul.
Posted in Arts and Crafts, Beaches, Cathedrals, Europe, Food, History, Literature, Natural Environment, Portugal, Postcards, Travel, World Heritage
Tagged Alentejo, Algarve, Beja, Cerveja, Odeceixe, Tomato festival, Zanbujeira
An A to Z of Portugal – X is for Odeceixe (sort of)
The alphabet has defeated me. If the Portuguese have little use for letters Q and W, the use of X is practically non-existent so I have decided to change the rules and to find a place name that simply includes the letter X. It is not cheating, it is my blog and I can change the rules if I choose to.
The soft sound of the rolling sea, no longer a lullaby but now an alarm call, woke me early so once awake I dressed and quietly left the room for an early morning stroll. I left Kim to sleep on. The beach that was busy yesterday was deserted now and I felt like Robinson Crusoe as I walked across the pristine sand. The tide had washed away all of the footprints. No Man Friday.
To the north of the beach and across the Ribeira de Seixe there is a cliff top with views both north and south and it was our plan today to take the path to the top. At breakfast the owner of the accommodation told us that we would have to wait until the afternoon for the tide to go out so that we would be able to cross the river.
Posted in back packing, Beaches, Europe, Food, Hotels, Literature, Natural Environment, Portugal, Postcards, Travel, World Heritage
Tagged Algarve, Altjento, Beaches, Culture, Life, Odeceixa Portugal, Portugal Walks
An A ro Z of Portugal – W is for Port Wine
I am at the tricky end of the alphabet now and this is where I discovered that in Portugal they don’t have a lot of use for the letter W. Fortunately they produce and drink a lot of wine, especially Port
The wine received its name Port in the latter half of the seventeenth century from the city of Porto where the product was brought to market or for export to other countries in Europe from the Leixões docks. Actually there are no port lodges in Porto but an after dinner Vila Nova de Gaia doesn’t have the same ring to it. The Douro valley where Port wine is produced was defined and established as a protected region or appellation in 1756, making it the third oldest defined and protected wine region in the world after Tokaji in Hungary and Chianti in Italy.
Posted in Arts and Crafts, Beaches, Europe, Food, Food and Drink, History, Hotels, Literature, Portugal, Postcards, Travel, World Heritage
Tagged Franchesinha, Life, Photography, Port Wine, Porto, Travel, Vila Nova de Gaia
An A to Z of Portugal – R is for Praça da Ribeira in Porto
Here there were small shops and traditional bars and cafés side by side with derelict and decrepit buildings with rotting timbers, rusting balconies, cracked tiled facades trying in vain to disguise years of neglect and so many washing lines that laundry could almost be a national pastime. The road channels were grubby and the buildings were grimy but it wasn’t without a certain charm and the defiant message from the residents seemed to be “Come and visit us if you like, we know it’s untidy but this is the way we like it!”
This lady seemed especially pleased to welcome us to her city…
Posted in Beaches, Cathedrals, Europe, Food and Drink, History, Hotels, Literature, Portugal, Postcards, Travel, World Heritage
Tagged Culture, Life, Photography, Port Wine, Porto, Praça da Ribeira, Travel, Vila Nova de Gaia























































