View from the Back
Ramblings of a retiree in France
Art Deco in Nice: Palais de la Méditerranée
Inaugurated in 1929, the Palais de la Méditerranée was the brainchild of American millionaire Frank Jay Gould and the visionary father and son architects architects Charles and Marcel Dalmas. Designed in the Art Deco style, the building boasted a grand façade reminiscent of the Paris Opera House, adorned with fluted columns, ornate balconies, and sculptures by Antoine Sartorio, including majestic sea horses and allegorical female figures representing the four seasons.
The interiors were equally magnificent. Guests were greeted by a vast white marble staircase, expansive stained-glass windows, and lavish interiors featuring precious woods and sparkling crystal chandeliers. The use of reinforced concrete allowed for unprecedented architectural feats, enabling expansive spaces and intricate detailing that were revolutionary at the time.
Jules Romain wrote:
France between the wars produced two masterpieces: the Normandie liner and the Palais de la Méditerranée.
Despite its initial success, the Palais faced challenges in the ensuing decades. Financial difficulties, exacerbated by the infamous Agnès Le Roux affair, led to the closure of the establishment in 1978 . Subsequently, in 1981, the building’s treasured interiors, including the famed stained-glass windows and bespoke furnishings, were auctioned off.
The decision to demolish the interiors in 1990 was met with opposition from cultural figures and preservationists. Notably, writers Michel Butor and Max Gallo, along with various associations, advocated for the building’s preservation. Their efforts culminated in the classification of the main façade on the Promenade des Anglais and the side façade on Rue du Congrès as historical monuments in 1989, ensuring their preservation amidst the extensive renovations.
In 2004, the Palais de La Méditerranée was reborn as a luxury hotel with 187 rooms and suites, now managed by the Hyatt Regency brand, and a casino operated by the Partouche company. In keeping with the building’s history and preserved facade, the interior decoration is also in the Art Deco style, making the whole homogeneous, airy and refined. Beneath the imposing colonnades, a beautiful heated indoor-outdoor swimming pool adds prestige to this mythical place.
The transformation of the Palais de la Méditerranée from its original Art Deco splendour to a contemporary luxury hotel exemplifies the delicate balance between preservation and modernisation. While the original interiors have been lost to time, the building’s enduring façade and the hotel’s commitment to honouring its heritage ensure that the spirit of the Palais continues to enchant visitors.
The Palais de la Méditerranée is one of the most emblematic building on the Promenade des Anglais, and beyond, in Nice (along with the Belle Epoque style Hotel Négresco, of course!).
From October 2025, for a period of seven months, the Hyatt Regency Palais de la Méditerranée hotel will be carrying out repairs to its façade and a refurbishment of its facilities.
All images courtesy of Ville de Nice and Palais de la Méditerranée
Art Deco in Nice: La Pergola
In the heart of the Musicians’ Quarter, this building constructed between 1924 and 1926 by architect Charles Dalmas has undergone a spectacular restoration and stands as a testament to the flourishing of Art Deco in Nice. The restoration work has revealed the friezes and painted decorations that were covered during a previous renovation, re-anchoring the Pergola in the city’s rich architectural heritage.
The Pergola is located in the heart of the so-called “modern” city, urbanised between 1910 and 1930. Rising from the ground in just a few years, the Musicians’ Quarter quickly became a bustling hub of Art Deco creations. The building embodies the architectural effervescence of this recent urbanisation, which saw painters, artisan and architects collaborating.
Completed in 1926, the Pergola is distinguished mainly by its colorful ornamentation, harmoniously blending modern techniques with traditional ones. The traditional fresco technique interacts here with the modernity of coloured concrete, a new coating that supplants lime plaster. The building’s corner, set back, is marked by oriel windows with wrought iron railings that differ from one floor to another, a rare detail in apartment buildings. In addition to the frescoes and the care given to the railings, the Pergola is characterised by its magnificently adorned door with glazed ceramic tesserae depicting colorful floral and plant motifs, the only elements that had not been concealed.
A Spectacular Renovation
2016’s major renovation revealed the entire original ornamental envelope, which had sadly been covered by a dull, uniform coating. Supported by the co-ownership and the municipality, the restoration work was carried out by the company Ad Affresco, specialised in the restoration and enhancement of architectural and artistic heritage.
Thus, the ochre brilliance of the facade, the aubergine pergola, the yellow floral motifs outlined in black, the green foliage, and the blue background of the friezes enhanced with touches of gold were revealed, restoring the Pergola to its former splendour. These elements, engraved in the fresh plaster using a technique that is part fresco, part sgraffito, and reproduced identically thanks to meticulous stratigraphic analysis, give the building an unexpected visual richness. The concrete base, smoothed and inlaid with mother-of-pearl, benefits from a technique similar to that used for the concrete of Gloria Mansion (coming soon).
Charles Dalmas
Charles Dalmas is a major figure in the architecture of Nice and the Côte d’Azur. Trained at the École des Arts Décoratifs de Nice and then at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, he was a student of Victor Laloux. Returning to Nice to practice, he quickly became a renowned architect, developing an elegant style that combined classicism and modernity in a constant quest for harmony with the local environment.
The architect played a key role in the transformation of Nice with achievements such as the Winter Palace (1900) and the Grand Palais (1911). Although particularly known for his luxury hotels, such as the Hôtel Royal (1905) and the Palais de la Méditerranée (1929) in Nice, as well as the famous Carlton (1912) and Miramar (1928) in Cannes, he also designed numerous villas, notably in St Jean Cap Ferrat for private clients.
Involved in nearly 200 projects, including many apartment buildings, he profoundly influenced the urban environment of downtown Nice. In 1904, he rebuilt the École des Arts Décoratifs de Nice, where he taught, demonstrating his commitment to the training of future architects.
All images courtesy of Ville de Nice
Musical Monday: Soundtracks #11
I’ve reported on a whole variety of songs: ones by artists I’ve seen live, covers, duets and those deemed iconic. I’m now turning my attention to what might be called “Soundtracks” specialised musical compositions, often instrumental or lyrical, designed to establish the mood and identity of TV shows and films, typically played during opening or closing credits, and those used in advertisements.
How about the theme tune to the US television series Mission Impossible?
This was an American espionage television series that aired for seven seasons (1966 – 1973) and later inspired the film series starring Tom Cruise beginning in 1996.
The show chronicled the exploits of a small team of covert government agents, known as the Impossible Missions Force, and their sophisticated methods of deceiving, manipulating and thwarting, among others, hostile Iron Curtain governments, third-world dictators, corrupt industrialists and crime lords.
The title sequence began with the lighting of a fuse which burned from left to right across the screen over clips of scenes in the current episode. The show’s iconic theme music played throughout the title sequence.
The theme was written and composed by Argentinian Lalo Schifrin and has since gone on to appear in several other works of the Mission: Impossible franchise, including the video game series.
As always, don’t forget to let me know your thoughts.
The Numbers Game 36, Monday 6 April, 2026
Today’s lucky number yielded 113 photos from which I’ve selected 6 at random.
The challenge is kindly hosted by Life Lessons – a blog by Judy Dykstra-Brown
To play along, go to your WP Media file and type that number (238) into the search bar. Then post a selection of the photos you find including that number and post a link to your blog in Judy’s Numbers Game blog of the day – easy!
French Fancies: Viellard Migeon et Cie
I like to showcase the depth of industry in France and this company is a case in point. It has been making iron since 1679!
Viellard Migeon et Cie is a French family-owned holding company that has evolved from its 17th century origins in metalworks to a diversified industrial and financial group. The company is known for its historical roots in fishing tackle (through the VMC brand) and its modern investments in sectors like automotive, aeronautics (via the LISI Group), and welding/brazing (via Selectarc), with a long-standing tradition of family management and ethical values.
How it all began
The Viellard family’s involvement in iron mastery began in 1679 when the first “maître de forge” (iron-master) of the Viellard family, Nicolas, managed the foundry of the Lepuix-Gy mines, Giromagny.
The company was formally established in 1796 when Jean-Baptiste Migeon and Jean-Baptiste Dominé acquired the lease of the Morvillars forges. It has remained a family-owned and managed business for over 200 years, a longevity that has earned it membership in the prestigious Hénokiens Association of bicentenary family companies.
The business met with significant success after the French Revolution when it adopted a strategy of cultivating family alliances to consolidate the iron works in Belfort, about 56 km (35 miles) north of Toulouse. In the early 1800s, the Morvillars forges manufactured wire for the Japy factories and then began to manufacture chains, bolts, screws and related products.
The marriage of Juvénal Viellard and Laure Migeon and later, in 1870, of their son Léon Viellard and Claire de Pruines, contributed to the development of forges in the area. It officially became Viellard Migeon et Cie in 1874 when Juvénal Viellard took full control of the family business.
Creation of the Morvillars fishhook factory took place early in early 20th century and that business is still flourishing today.
In 1967 Viellard Migeon merged its screw and bolt division with other manufacturers to create GFD.
In 2000, VMC set up a joint-venture with Rapala to form the Rapala-VMC Group, quoted on the Helsinki stock exchange, to become the world’s largest manufacturers of lures and treble hooks (fishing hooks). Later Viellard Migeon & Compagnie consolidated its position by becoming the principal shareholder in Rapala-VMC.
In 2008 Christophe Viellard was elected Chairman of the Board. He succeeded Michel Viellard (pictured above), who had previously been Chairman for 47 years.
In more recent years, the company has strengthened all its divisions through further acquisitions and capital investments.
Today, Viellard Migeon et Cie functions as an investment and holding company with a diversified portfolio of industrial activities, alongside the management of forest and rental-property assets.
Key holdings now include:
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- LISI Group: Viellard Migeon holds a 23% share in LISI (Link Solutions for Industry), a European leader in the manufacturing of fasteners and mechanical components for the automotive, aerospace, and medical sectors. A business originally started by the company in 1827.
- Rapala-VMC: The company holds a 27% share in Rapala-VMC, a global leader in fishing tackle, including its historical VMC brand fishhooks division, which was established in 1910.
- Selectarc: The welding and brazing division of Viellard Migeon.
In addition to its industrial holdings, the company owns a large estate of forests and rental properties.
While the HQ is based in France (Franche-Comte), its branches and holdings cover over 140 countries around the world.
The company has a long history of family leadership and places a strong emphasis on family continuity, ethical conduct, and passing on its values across generations. It is also a member of the Nokiya association, which represents companies run by the same dynasty for over 200 years.
All images courtesy of Viellard Migeon et Cie
The Musette: Chicken Balti Pie
The Balti pie has become a match day delicacy enjoyed by many football fans each week up and down the UK. I made this pie for a friend who loves pastry plus the heat and spice of Indian dishes. So what better than all those amazing flavours and textures together for the ultimate treat. However, my friend isn’t a fan of vegetables so, pretty much like with kids, I’ve sought to add these to the pie.
There’s no view of the pie being served as this was one of my (many) Shereeats deliveries.
Ingredients (serves 4)
- 2 sheets of all butter puff pastry, or pastry of choice
Masala paste:
- thumb sized piece ginger
- 6 garlic cloves
- 2 tomatoes, quartered
- 11/2 tsp garam masala
- 11/2 tsp cumin seeds, crushed
- 1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed
- 1 tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp chilli powder
- 2 tbsp full-fat Greek yogurt
- 2 tbsp coconut oil
- 1 tsp brown mustard seeds
- 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
- 1 bay leaf
- Handful coriander stems
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- 1 carrot, finely chopped
- 6 green or red chillies, finely chopped (my friend likes it hot)
Pie filling:
- 700g (25 oz) skinless chicken thigh, bite-size chunks or cooked chicken
- 50g (1 cup) spinach, finely chopped
- 200g (1 1/2 cup) peas, cooked
- fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- handful finely chopped, fresh coriander leaves
Method
1. Blend together the ginger and garlic and set to one side. Heat and then grind the cumin and coriander seeds and set to one side. Blend the tomatoes to a paste and stir in the ground spices, garam masala, turmeric, chilli powder, yoghurt and salt.
2. Heat the coconut oil in a non-stick saucepan and add the mustard seeds. Once the mustard seeds pop, add the bay leaf, carrot and chopped onion. Stir and cook on a medium heat. When the onion is transluscent, about 15 minutes, add the minced ginger and garlic with the chopped green or red chillies. Cook for further 10-20 minutes, until the onions are golden. If the onions catch, add a splash of water and continue to cook the onions.
3. Stir in the blended tomatoes, spices and yoghurt mix. Turn the heat up and stir until the mixture thickens and you have a thick masala paste.
4. Add the raw chicken pieces and stir into the thick masala to coat them. Reduce the heat and place the lid on the pan. Leave to cook for about 20 minutes, stirring every now and again.
5. Once the chicken is cooked through, add the spinach and peas, then cook for a few minutes more. Once cooked, add some black pepper and a squeeze of lemon, then check the seasoning. Stir in the chopped coriander and remove the bay leaf.
6. If using cooked chicken like me, continue to cook the sauce for for about 20 minutes, stirring every now and again. Leave to cool then add the chopped chicken, peas, cooked spinach, some black pepper and a squeeze of lemon, then check the seasoning. Stir in the chopped coriander and remove the bay leaf.
7. To prepare the pie, pre-heat the oven to 200°C/180°C.fan/400°F/gas mark 5. Using either individual pie tins, or one large one, line the tins with pastry. Fill the pie tin(s) and use the remaining pastry to top the filling, crimping edges to seal. Make a hole in the centre of the pie (s).
8. Brush the top(s) with egg wash then bake for 20 minutes or so or until golden. As you can see, I sometimes scatter a few Nigella seeds over the top.
Sheree’s Shout-Outs: Rosemarie
I cannot take credit for these posts as the idea was firmly planted by Richard Bist but, once planted, it took root.
My blog is probably no different to many in that the number of followers vastly exceeds the number of regular readers and commentators. As I’ve been blogging for a while, readers (and commentators) have come and gone – was it something I said?
In any event, once a month I’m going to throw a light on one of my regulars. This month it’s Rosemarie whose blog is called Rosemarie’s Kitchen. A bit of a clue just there to our shared interest.
Rosemarie specialises in crowd-pleasers from around the globe:
Where the Food is made with love; seasoned with faith.
All of Rosemarie’s recipes have a context. It might be a National Food-type Day, or a recipe from a particular US State, or one that pertains to a day in the religious calendar, or have particular significance to her family. Consequently, her posts are always interesting and informative.
She often reminds her readers that she’s a wife, mother and grandmother. Faith, Family and Food, not necessarily in that order, are really important to Rosemarie and this comes across in all of her posts.
I’ll let her have the last word and just add that i’m hoping to share a Margarita with her…….one day:
I’m so grateful for each and every person I have had the pleasure of “meeting” on this amazing journey through cyberspace. How I’d love to sit down and break bread with you in the real world. My faith tells me we will meet one day, if not in this world then at the banquet table in heaven.
Image courtesy of Rosemarie
Friday’s Tall Tales #146
Whenever I photograph a door or gate I wonder about its provenance, who and what has happened across said door or gate, and what lies beyond.
I thought I might pick one from my sextet of Thursday’s Doors and tell you a bit more about it or……maybe even weave a story about it.
This charming door is in the Old Town of Carpentras. Usually, Mr Google helpfully roughly locates where in Carpentras one can find the door. But, because it’s beautifully draped in ivy, it unhelpfully advises about that instead!
However, further diligent searching on my part and checking out the photos I took either side, led me to this square, Place Saint-Siffrein, home to the Cathedral of St. Siffrein, constructed primarily between 1409 and 1514, over three earlier churches, and was the seat of the bishops of Carpentras until 1801.
Although it was built mainly in the Gothic style, its façade seems incongruous because of a 12th century tower, a 17th century classical doorway and a 20th century bell tower. Inside, exceptional wrought-iron gates, gilded statues, a 17th century marble altar, and fine classical paintings hint at a rich past and the valuable relics housed here. The building has been a listed historical monument since 1840 and, since,2009, it has been the seat of the titular bishop of Carpentras.
It’s quite possible that the buildings, including this one with the handsome green door, around the cathedral housed the clergy.
Flora and Fauna Friday #146
This post is my weekly homage to my parents who both took pleasure in having a beautiful garden. In particular, they loved sitting and watching the wild life enjoy their garden.
Thursday doors #327
I’m still featuring Spanish and French doors from my trips last year.
Thursday Doors is a weekly feature allowing door lovers to come together to admire and share their favourite door photos from around the world. Feel free to join in the fun by creating your own Thursday Doors post each week and then sharing your link in the comments’ on Dan’s site, anytime between Thursday morning and Saturday noon (North American Eastern Time).
View from the Back 