When in (and out of) Rome…eat in May 2025

Another despatch about food and drink. This one is about what we ate and drank during this month’s visit. It features Rome, Terracina, Sperlonga, and Gaeta. For some reason the photographs are in reverse order.

Friday

Gnocchetti with homemade sugo.

It had been preceded by the first ‘aperitivo in terrazza’ of the year.

Which itself had been preceded by a walk.

Saturday

A snack at Ilvana in Terracina.

Dinner at Ricciola Saracena in Sperlonga. The dessert.

Pasta with lupini.

The wine.

A pre-dinner drink at Bar Blue Star.

Sunday

Lunch in Gaeta, at the previously visited Calpurnio. We had half of each, not both, honest. Each had sausage, each had mozzarella buffala, and one had brocoletti.

With aubergine balls preceding.

Cheesecake for dessert.
Aubergine medallions for main.
With various seafood-based dishes for the starter.
Before which was a drink at Bar Blue Star.

Monday

 
Back in Rome, an aperitivo at Panificando.
Which had also been preceded by a walk.

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When in Lazio…saunter in Sutri

To Sutri last October. It acted as a stop on the way to a ‘mercato del usato’. We started with a spuntino in a square.

A glimpse inside Monastero Ss. Concezione.

A water feature.

Some detail.

An arch or two.

The church of San Silvestro.

An Amaro del Conclave – who knew in October it might be needed just a few months hence?

A streetscape.

And to end: a video.

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When in Rome… appraise in April 2/2

More of April’s appraising today, starting with some protest.

Some colours faded.

Some more protest.

Marketing.

Marketing for Liberation Day on 25 April, focusing on voting, studying, and loving.

Something living or something dead? Or both?

More scaffolding.

Another type of marketing.

Heritage.

More works.

With some completed works.

And to end: a couple of photos of skies because whatever you think of Rome’s man-made beauty nothing can compare with its natural.

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When in Rome… appraise in April 1/2

Lengthy walks around the centro storico over Easter enabled us to appraise various things, starting with an open door.

Some light and windows – what’s not to capture?

Some marketing.

Scaffolding.

And more.

A doorway.

An exhibit in The Ghetto about which more research is needed.

An exhibition we should endeavour to see.

Some philosophy on the edge of Trastevere.

A look down Clivo di Rocca Savella.

Some realia.

More marketing.

The chains and locks removed from the door of Hotel San Carlo. Fingers crossed, it will soon be reopen.

Another doorway.

More philosophy.

One of The Great Views, as you know.

With more scaffolding.

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When in Lazio…visit Rieti 1/4

Some general scenes from our March visit to Rieti today. They start with the gate through which we walked to get into the historic centre.

How could we not record a church?

And then this one: the Basilica di Sant’Agostino di Rieti.

As for its story, courtesy of Google Translate, the church’s website tells us:

The Church was founded in 1252 by one of the mendicant orders that were now establishing themselves at the gates of the city, along the route of the Via Francigena whose eastern arm descended from Vienna, Venice, the Marches and Abruzzo, and from Tuscany and Umbria to the center and west, always crossing Rieti and Sabina to arrive in Rome and thus reach the tomb of the Apostle Peter and then resume walking, sailing and crossing the sea and landing in Jerusalem, praying at the Holy Sepulchre, in the Outremer that had belonged to Godfrey of Bouillon, Baldwin I and Richard the Lionheart.

This mendicant order was that of the Emeritani, somewhat mysterious monks of the Ordo Fratrum Sancti Augustini, who founded churches and monasteries when the Franciscans and Dominicans did the same. The pilgrims who came to Rieti and went to Rome needed assistance and the Hermits provided it, hosting them as a gift of God’s love under these vaults. The pilgrims traveled at the expense of their sins, and had as the objective of their uncomfortable journey, the City of David, that of the Great King, Nazareth and Bethlehem, Capernaum, the Mount of Beatitudes and the Sea of ​​Tiberias.

The Order of the Hermits, later to become the Augustinians, was born from the merger ordered by the Bull Licet Ecclesiae catholicae, of Pope Alexander IV. The new religious community gathered the friars of the Hermits of Giovanni Bono (Augustinian rule, 1225), the Hermits of Tuscia, the Hermits of San Guglielmo (Benedictine rule), the Hermits of Brettino (Augustinian rule, 1228), the Hermits of Monte Favale (Benedictine rule), and other minor congregations in the Order of the Hermits of Saint Augustine, who wear the black habit, consisting of a scapular, cowl and tunic, with a hood and wide sleeves; cinched at the waist by a leather belt with a buckle. This style of dress dates back to the 13th century, the years of the foundation of the Rieti temple. According to a widespread legend, it was Saint Monica, the mother of Saint Augustine, who spread that type of habit, because she had dreamed of the Madonna dressed in that way after the death of her holy husband, Joseph. Because of the leather belt, the Augustinian friars were also known in the ecclesiastical world as the “cintati”.

In that 13th century, Rieti, umbilicus Italiae, was affected by a long period of prosperity in which the population grew in number, the increase in hands increased the work and there was an interesting economic prosperity. The roads were improved and trade multiplied and relations with nearby cities increased, especially with Rome. Culture flourished, all due to the vivifying presence of the Pontiffs and their Papal Court, who very often resided in the austere Papal Palace built and expanded next to the Cathedral of Santa Maria and which Boniface VIII strengthened after the earthquake of 1298, with the arch that bears his name and which gives directly onto Via Cintia. The Papal Court was numerous with cardinals, bishops and monsignors who lived in the city for long periods, doctors, theologians, men of letters, artists and musicians.

Starting roughly from the mid-fourteenth century, the Mendicant Orders were the protagonists of a real building-religious competition, engaging in the construction of the churches and convents of St. Francis, that of the Hermits of St. Augustine and finally of the Dominicans, who erected their temple and monastery giving them the name of the founder of the so-called Order of Preachers, precisely St. Dominic, who was canonized in Rieti by Pope Gregory IX, on 13 July 1234, at the Basilica of St. Mary.

These imposing buildings, due to their size and majesty, still dominate the entire historic center. These churches have returned today to play that role of ecclesiastical and community life that is necessary and decisive, together with the great religious initiatives and international cultural events of considerable value that they host under their naves, after all three churches were recently restored, with the use of significant financial resources by the State, the Lazio Region, and the Commissioner for the works of the earthquake, which occurred with serious consequences in September 1997.

Ottorino Pasquetti

In 2010, the Parish Church of St. Augustine obtained the title of Basilica from the Congregation for Divine Worship and the Discipline of the Sacraments.

A view across a piazza.

Then a stroll across and along the river.

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When in Rieti…stay at Villa dell’Annunziata

When visiting Rieti in March, we stayed at Villa dell’Annuniziata. Here’s how we captured it over the three days we were there, and its story is provided courtesy of its website.

Living testimony of its own history. Villa dell’annunziata is a container of art. An uncontaminated place to stay in the footsteps of Saint Francis. 


As its basements testify, the Villa dates back to the 14th century and was the site of one of the oldest Capuchin convents in Lazio and the small chapel, still existing, is tangible proof of this. This small church overlooks the old Via Boschiva, which went up to the place where Saint Francis, during his stay in the Rieti valley, wrote the Canticle of the Creatures and spent his convalescence after the operation for a serious eye disease; where today stands the Sanctuary of the Forest, a place of worship since ancient times. 

These places are strongly marked by the presence of Francis, who also performed the Miracle of the Grapes here, perhaps right among the vineyards of Villa dell’Annunziata, which still today miraculously reappear in the uncultivated garden of the Villa.

Saturday

Sunday

Monday


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When in Lazio…visit Cantalice

During our sojourn in Rieti, we visited Cantalice. Or, rather, we attempted to visit Cantalice. Because most of it seemed to be cordoned off. So what follows is not as extensive a collection of images as it might have been. As for more information, The Roman awarded it 0 points and the Visit Lazio website tells us:

An imposing staircase cuts the town in half – climb up it and be amazed at the stunning views around you!

A little town in the heart of the Sabina area, Cantalice overlooks the Rieti plain, dominating it from its lofty position, with a view of the three lakes in upper Lazio, and is surrounded by the (partial) Nature Reserve of Lungo and Ripasottile Lakes where a nature trail winds past some quaint farmhouses built on piles, providing great opportunities for photography and getting up close to dove to the typical lake wildlife on the shores of the lakes.

History lovers will have a field day here: Cantalice, had, like many Rieti hill towns a medieval centre, of which many features remain, including the defensive tower and the impressive Church of San Felice.

On both sides of the staircase that distinguishes the town, what you see will remind you of a nativity scene: stone houses, stairs, fountains and little churches and religious icons. Buildings are squashed closely together, the streets mere alleyways, in contrast to the huge spaces of the extensive Rieti plain the town towers over.

What’s more, numerous footpaths and picturesque nature trails start from Cantalice, taking you as far as Terminillo and Leonessa. The town lies on the St Francis Trail, which allows visitors to take in the four Franciscan Sanctuaries of the Santa Reatina Valley.

“Strengozze” (long pasta with rectangular cross-section) is the splendid local speciality – simply water, wheat flour, tomatoes, marjoram and garlic, but what a treat!

Cantalice, in the Rieti Province, lies 93 kilometres from Rome.


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