Combining the last two days :D
Day 5
After stopping in the same park for another egg and coffee breakfast, we went back to Harajuku and got yukatas (summer kimonos). Souvenir must-buy!
Then we went to Sugamo (the old people district...it is literally known as "Harajuku of the old ladies"), and this was totally my speed :) In the train station we found a ton of delicious foods -- salad with chunks of roast, egg, and mushroom and huge tempura shrimp. We stopped for a really fancy coffee, a piece of salt cheese bread and the most gorgeous musk melon cream bun (whaaaat!).

As we wandered through old people land, we stopped for more tasties...we got a super yummy tiny peanut shaped wafer thing with red bean paste inside. I guess those are like butterscotch hard candies, there ;) Then we got deeper and we figured out the "Harajuku" reference...there were entire storefronts dedicated to red grannie panties. Sadly, we saw a guy who had olded as long as he could old, collapsed in the street. This was tragic, but then, absurdly, there was a very virile, very hirsute, very tall young man in a scandalously short silk kimono with no pants speaking to the police and gesturing wildly. We just stayed out of the way. There was also the saddest grandchildren toy store ever. No real displays, just stacks of nondescript boxes...just "whatever, this is fine. it doesn't matter".
Either the Sugamo reminders of our mortality or the sugary decadence of the melon puff knocked us out pretty hard, so we came back to the hotel room to escape the heat and nap and bath.
I fell prey to some fruit jelly-coated marshmallows from Marshmallow Elegance.

Drew had to resist the most adorable tiny character cupcakes. He was tempted to body check some small children and steal them. This is what sugar does to you, people! We had a tiny donut sample from this amazing place -- they named their flavors things like "snob lemon" and "sophisticate berry". We looked for flavored kitkats, but had no luck. To keep the vicious carb cycle alive, I ate a breaded pork cutlet sandwich on soft pillowy white bread.
A lady also offered us some vinegar sangria, which was surprisingly tasty. We were lifting the cups to our faces as she was describing it, in halting english, and as the vinegar scent hit my nose, she was just then saying the word "vinegar" and part of my brain freaked out but the other part was like "shh, it's Tokyo, it's going to be tasty." and it was!Thankfully for my pancreas, we found a keto friendly restaurant for dinner... that served only beef tongue. Like they stopped us at the door to say "oh, sorry tourists, this restaurant serves only beef tongue. ONLY beef tongue." but we persisted. They were super wary that we had no idea what we were doing :) It was delicious!!

Then we went to Akihabara (Electric Town).
Tamagotchi lives!!First we stopped in the Pop Life M's sex store...It was a ton of tiny floors crammed with people pointing and giggling and every (I mean every) variety of Japanese sex toy you could ever want. So many sleeves. SO MANY. Including the tiny human torso sleeves. Drew was a bit unnerved by the cutaway cross sections of each sleeve, but hey -- comparison shopping is important :)
Then we went to
Yodobashi Camera, another massive many-floored warehouse of electronics and housewares like pianos and washing machines and the coolest fridges ever.
On the top floor we had dinner #2 -- Pepper Lunch! We had tried to go to a different Pepper Lunch location that the Internet said was worthwhile, because you got to order from robots, but that one had been recently closed. Probably some tourist died from a rogue robot attack, or something. They likely reopened right after we left :P This Pepper Lunch diner was not as cool -- we had to talk to a PERSON to order, but Drew declared his hamburger steak (with an egg) the best hamburger steak he'd ever had. I got sirloin. You sit at the table in your plastic bib and they bring out your meal with noodles and veggies. The meat cooks on a sizzler slab...not like a warmer, like a spattering oiled block of cast iron. They brought garlic and buttery spread on the steak. Mmm. No pics of the food, it got de-vour-erd.
We headed back early, to leave time to pre-pack...Good thing we did a trial run, because turns out, we needed another bag :D
Also along this street, we encountered a man walking a full-size pig through the crowd, on his leash. I was too stunned to take a picture.
*squint* what?We made our way to the Rabbit Cafe...er, Rabbit Museum?

It was super expensive. You picked a room and picked a rabbit, and they have an option to exchange the rabbit halfway through for a different rabbit. Drew had gone to a different cafe earlier where you couldn't pick up the rabbits, but he says that there, the rabbits LOVED being petted and eating veggies from your hand. We were allowed to pick up our rabbits but they were constantly on the move. They didn't seem super freaked out, they just didn't want to sit still long enough to be picked up or touched at all. So mainly we just sat and let them run around us. Then the lady helped us get other rabbits. The new rabbits were also circling and ignoring us...we even bought an extra bowl of leaves for them and they didn't care at all. Not really worth the money, in the end.



My rabbit was slightly less spastic than Drew's...but it wanted nothing to do with either of our parsley leaves...

I guess we're gonna have to eat all this...

One finally took pity and had a nibble!!!The Cat Cafe was also just fine -- it smelled very slightly of ammonia but it was a super tiny place with lots of cats and books, what do you expect? The cats weren't super curious about new people, they just chilled. It wasn't anything like the ones we saw on cute overload, but it was a cafe first, then they just added the cats...it was not a cafe ABOUT cats. We got a cheap and tasty egg, cheese, and tomato crepe and some iced tea. We petted some sleepy kitties, then we called it done. I think we made a mistake by starting with the owl cafe -- it was so good that the other cafe encounters were just meh :)









Toes are delicious!


Heading out...
We got up super early but it turns out we needed that much time :) Getting to the airport was hard for us -- we dragged our suitcases all over the place, then failed to buy the extra ticket we needed for the second leg, so we had to wait on the next one...in the end, we were cutting it a bit close. We were checking our bags 62 minutes from departure and the cutoff was one hour from departure. Drew's middle initial was an issue, me having a diabetic meal on one leg and a gluten free on another leg was an issue...yeargh! We went through immigration, which was strange to do on your way OUT of a country, then through security. We did manage to get to the gate just before boarding.
We had a 3 hour layover in Beijing but we had customs, security, and immigration to get through. They were not happy with our external batteries...They stopped us and were like "You have 3 batteries in there, you have to show us what it is. What is it?" and we were like "Probably 3 batteries..." The beijing airport was awful. Nowhere to buy drinks or any convenience items. There was a sit-down Pizza Hut and that was about it. Tons of duty free liquor stores, tons of empty storefronts...a guy snoring loudly draped across 3 seats. We couldn't sit together on the plane, and there was no wi-fi...I watched a jillion movies on the way home, but Drew's screen was broken. In California we did the immigration and security dance, then we ...somehow bypassed customs. The guy was like "Ohhh this says you're going to NC, just carry on this way" but I think he thought we were directly flying to NC. Oops :)
Stopping in SFO for a biological clock reset was a really good idea! Not standing even once on the flight from Beijing to SFO was NOT a good idea...I'ma need to invest in some old lady compression socks for this upcoming Australia trip, at least if I plan on eating carbs while I'm there, so that my ankles don't swell to the size of basketballs. Urgh.
The end! Merch post TBD :D