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July 6, 2010 / howardmestas

Got To Love New York!

First off, I would like to thank Jonathan, Matt, and Scott for a magnificently planned trip.  It was better than I possibly thought it could be, and I already had high expectations!

What an amazing adventure, and what a learning experience!  This is definitely the greatest city in the world.  How could anybody argue otherwise?  From any location in downtown New York you are within walking distance of Wall Street, Ground Zero,

The Kid in the Middle is Freaking Out!

the Brooklyn Bridge, and a place where you can gaze at the Statue of Liberty.  You can mingle in the same streets where Hamilton and Jefferson struck deals, and where George Washington first took the oath of office as President of the United States, a block from where Apollo Astronauts rode through ticker-tape parades.  This is definitely the Big Apple.  It is loaded with political power and historical significance,

Lady Liberty

 and is without a doubt the entertainment capital of the world; boasting the best of the best in museums, opera, ballet, entertainers, dining, and sight-seeing of the most recognizable structures anywhere.  Where icons like Babe Ruth, Lou Gehrig, Marlin Monroe, and James Dean walked the streets and where American heroes like Theodore and Franklin Roosevelt began their public service.  And above all it is the multicultural capital of the universe where diversity is celebrated and not viewed as a means to ending America’s identity.  This IS America’s identity and has been ever since the Dutch first inhabited islands in the harbor around four hundred years ago.  As if it couldn’t get any better, it is also one of the safest big cities in the world with over 40,000 police officers within the five boroughs.  Ken Jackson put it best when he said that an outsider visiting the city has a much greater chance of being struck by lightning than being the victim of a violent crime.  And that’s just the city!  Farther north are some of the most incredibly scenic

Mockingbird on Cliffs over Looking Hudson River Below Culinary Institute

landscapes anywhere with gems like Cooperstown dotting the map along the way.  The Hudson and Mohawk Valleys are spectacular and the cities along the Erie Canal all have special stories to tell.  This entire experience has changed the way I look at American History, and even though I have always included many things about New York in my lesson plans, I have a feeling the units will be a little bit more precise.  I will certainly have enough nice photographs for the visual learners.

June 30, 2010 / howardmestas

TICONDEROGA: The Key to a Continent

Land of Strategic Importance

On the Lookout

As planned we were distant travelers again today as we traversed upstate New York for about 240 miles.  It was a long ride but worth the effort as we entered a zone on the continent where the 18th Century struggle for empire in North America witnessed some defining moments.  Our first stop was a location between Lake George and Lake Champlain an area of incredible strategic importance since whichever army controlled this spot

Panorama overlooking Lake Champlain with Mt Defiance to right

would control the St Lawrence River in Canada and the Hudson to the south.  Control of the extraordinary fortification of Fort Ticonderoga between the lakes would switch hands and names numerous times.  Originally it 

BIG GUNS! READY TO FIRE

Vermont to the left

Ready to fire from above

 

Facing Lake Champlain

Locked and Loaded

belonged

On target

to the French who built it in 1755 and named it Fort Carillon where it would serve as a base to attack their English rivals to the south in numerous conflicts named the French and Indian Wars.  In a heroic stand1758, the Marquis de Montcalm with only 4,000 men withstood an assault by British General Abercrombie who commanded 16,000.  According to our guide Jim Hughto, this battle was a turning point

Cannon through a window

in history since many of Abercrombie’s young colonial lieutenants witnessed the reckless abandon of British officers and developed a measure of confidence that the King’s Army could be defeated if you follow a disciplined plan on the battlefield.  This attitude would play a major role a couple decades later when General Burgoyne’s

Last Line of defense

Lookout Pigeon

invasion from north would be thwarted at Saratoga by many members of the original colonial militia.  Saratoga was of course the major turning point in the Revolution since it would bring the French, who had been ousted from North America, back again to join the war against the British.

A Thought

We all know that when the Comte de Vergennes was meeting with Benjamin Franklin in 1777 to discuss the possibility of a Franco-American alliance, it was the Battle of Saratoga that was the finisher. 

Cannon Saratoga Battlefield

Jim says, "Let me introduce you to my little friend!"

But I wonder if the Battle of Carrion played in the back of the mind of the French Foreign Minister?  About 25 miles north of Fort Ticonderoga is Vermont’s oldest city and it is named Vergennes in honor of the minister.  The name was chosen by colonial militia hero named Ethan Allen.

What I will do for my students

Since I plan to refer to this location frequently I plan to show my students how ownership of land by nations can change hands through wars.  Originally the area between the lakes was owned by Native Americans, then the French, followed by the British,

Path at Saratoga Battlefield

Wildflowers at Saratoga Battlefield

then the American rebels, followed by the British again, and then ultimately by the Americans.  The Native Americans were allies to each of the armies yet they were the ones who were left with the least in the end.  I also plan to show how Ethan Ellen captured the fort without a shot and how in 1775 Henry Knox transported cannon taken from Ticonderoga to George Washington in Boston.  Since I have so many photos it should be a fun lesson.

June 30, 2010 / howardmestas

IF WALLS COULD TALK

July 4, 1776 In Roman Numerals

  

Ellis and Liberty Islands

   

Wow!  If buildings could talk we would have heard some incredible stories today as     

LADY LIBERTY

 

we made our hard hat tour through Ellis Island.  This will be the easiest lesson I will prepare for my classes and not only because we got an awesome thumb drive from our instructor, but because the vast majority of Americans have some connection to the buildings on the island.  For decades there were at least 5,000 people processed daily so it is highly unlikely that any family in America today didn’t have some     

LADY LIBERTY IN THE CLOUDS

 

"From her beacon-hand glows world-wide welcome"

 

distant ancestor pass through those halls.  Most students already have some background on their ancestry so the motivation for wanting to learn more is already there.  Some of the hard facts we learned today were that the biggest wings of the complex were for immigrants with contagious or infectious diseases where they would remain until they were healthy enough to be admitted into the country.  One of the most touching moments of our tour was when we reached the building for people whose illness had reached the point where they became terminal cases.  They were given a room with good ventilation and nice views; unfortunately it was in a section where people were sent to die.  How sad for     

Window view of Statue of Liberty from room of terminal patients

 

them to plan so long, selling their property back home and leaving all they had known behind; only to come so far and be so close that they could see the Statue of Liberty through the window.     

Walls from outside infectious and contageous disease ward

 

With so many people entering daily, examinations were not a lengthy process.  In fact doctors on average would only take about six seconds to check eyes, ears, and breathing     

Window view from contageous and infectious disease ward

 

before deciding on the status of an individual.  This was a surprising fact for me considering how difficult it is to attain citizenship today.  Another surprising fact we learned was that most of the photographs we have come to cherish about Ellis Island were actually fakes and not real life shots.  Our tutor said that after examining so many pictures they began to notice that recognizable faces could be a nurse or doctor in one photo, an immigrant with baggage in another and a patient in a sick ward in yet another.  The explanation was that people were so stressed out and fearful upon arrival that they could never have posed for such examinations.  At the completion of tour we were free to walk about the visitor center were there was a plethora of incredible tools to learn about the immigrant story.  There were many children there, some with family and others with educational groups.  How awesome it must be for teachers in the east coast to be able to take their classes on field trips to places like this.     

View of Manhattan from Liberty Island

 

Next it was off to Liberty Island and my chance to ride the ferry again.  I know this shouldn’t have made me excited, but I have never been on the ocean before.  Liberty Island was one of those “pinch yourself” moments where I continually had to reassure myself that I was actually there.  I don’t care how many times you see it in pictures or on a screen it is a moment of exhilaration to actually see the Statue of Liberty in person.  If you are not proud to be an American after visiting this tiny island then you should feel shameful.  How incredibly symbolic this monument is to what we stand for and believe in, and just another thing to add to the greatness of New York City.  I kept looking back at Manhattan and the Brooklyn Bridge and imagined how this place developed over time.  I felt sadness when I saw where the World Trade Center towers stood and thought of how the view might have been from the island on that terrible day in 2001.  I also thought about how fickle we could sometimes be with our attitudes about the French.  Lady Liberty after all was a gift from the French people and really we never would have become the USA without the Franco American Alliance in the Revolution.  I also kept glancing at the Verrazano Narrows Bridge and remembered that it played prominently in one of my favorite movies “Saturday Night Fever” with John Travolta.  This was such a great day that I wasn’t even bothered by the rainfall that had my clothing all wet.  Unfortunately the trip ended in a bad note after I volunteered to snap a photo for a Nigerian woman and her young son.  Since her camera required that I look through the eyepiece, I had to remove my glasses to take the picture.  Of course that was the last time I saw my glasses since someone took them away for who knows what reason.  I spent the rest of the trip wearing a different pair with a prescription that was over ten years old.  If I had a chance to do it all over again, I would have still done the same thing.  She was so proud to have her image of herself and her son with Lady Liberty in the background.  Welcome to America. 

THE NEW COLOSSUS

   

Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame,  

With conquering limbs astride from land to land;  

Here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand  

A mighty woman with a torch, whose flame  

Is the imprisoned lightning, and her name  

Mother of Exiles. From her beacon-hand  

Glows world-wide welcome; her mild eyes command  

The air-bridged harbor that twin cities frame.  

“Keep ancient lands, your storied pomp!” cries she  

With silent lips. “Give me your tired, your poor,  

Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,  

The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.  

Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,  

I lift my lamp beside the golden door!”   

   

June 30, 2010 / howardmestas

ROAD WARRIORS IN THE EMPIRE STATE!

   

My Favorite Photo of The Whole Trip!

 

So Many Things!  So Little Time!

Today was one of our most hectic, yet one of the most exciting days of our trip, and I am still amazed we were able to pull it off!  Starting early, very, very early, we left Cooperstown for a two-and-a-half hour drive through some of the most beautiful countryside anywhere.  With all the small towns along the way it was hard to believe this was still New York.  How crazy is it to think that ninety-percent of the population of New York is in an area the size of a small county in Colorado.  Finally we arrived at our destination located at the middle finger on the scenic and historical 

How embarrassing for the guy on the left! Is that Danny Glover?

 

 Finger Lakes.  Yes, I do keep track of such things.  We were in Seneca Falls, a place where the first women’s rights movement began.  We stopped and visited the Women’s Rights National Historic Park which I thought could have been better considering the magnitude of the locality; still it was a great learning experience.  I enjoyed the exhibit of women’s athletics on the second floor since I was a girl’s high school coach for 25 years.  I can still remember when Title IX first came about in the seventies and girl’s athletics first became available in schools.  How was it that this opportunity was lost for so many years?  Next we visited the 

Home of Harriet Tubman with original barn on th left. How cool is that?

 

Karin and her twin!

 

Nice Arrangement!

 

home of Elizabeth Cady Stanton, the first pioneer for women’s equality.  It was good to see the various homes where the movement began, especially since I was able to put a place to go along with all the things I have learned by taking two classes with Teresa Jacobs.  Things all began fitting together when we saw the home of Harriet Tubman, a person I have always admired.  To hear the stories of how she was abused when she was a young slave girl was really sad, but her triumph in the end is one of America’s great stories.  How brave a person was she to risk her life so many times by returning to the dreaded South to free loved ones?  It’s not surprising to learn that she and Stanton became friends and partners in a movement to gain respect and political power for all women; white or black.  What was surprising is all that we learned at our next stop, the home of William H. Seward.  Seward is a guy you hardly hear about in the history books, other than he was the person responsible for purchasing Alaska while he was Secretary of State in 1867.  But there is so much more to this man and his place in history, even if he was only five-feet-four.  First of all he had an impressive political career being Governor 

Iron Bridge on The Erie Canal

 

of New York, a US Senator for two terms and Secretary of State to both Abraham Lincoln and Andrew Johnson.  And his home was one of the best stops on the entire trip considering every single object was original; including the bloody sheets where he survived an assassination attempt the night Lincoln was killed.  A testament to his 

Boat dock on the canal

 

Boat dock on the canal

 

character was the fact that this very residence was a stop on the Underground Railroad which means he was a government official who was breaking the law for so many years by doing what was right.  A short talk to one of the curators revealed that he was the kind of boss you would like to work for since he would give 

A rise of 25.1 feet!

 

 a house and a pension to his servants when they became too old to work anymore.  He was very generous for causes he believed worthy and even gave a home and some property to Tubman.  Seward is definitely a guy I want to learn more about. 

Our final stop for the day was definitely the coolest hands on educational experience I have ever been a part of, a boat ride on the Erie Canal.  Like so many things on this trip, you can’t understand something until you actually see it in person, and going through the locks was an experience I will never forget.  I instantly became a fan of the Erie Canal and all who were associated with it; DeWitt Clinton who insisted on it, the incredible engineers who made the plans for it, and the immigrant workers who toiled to dig it.  I want to read books, see paintings, and hear the songs from the men and mules that made the difficult 15 miles per day trip.  This was an awesome day and we pulled it off! 

 

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

June 25, 2010 / howardmestas

ROOSEVELTS AT HYDE PARK

 
Springwood Estate

    

America’s Greatest Dysfunctional Family    

I remember as a kid my late Aunt used to say that, “Franklin Roosevelt in a wheelchair was greater than Reagan in a chariot.”  I guess you could say my upbringing was tainted toward the Democratic Party, and I’m proud of it.  Besides how could you not like FDR?  Unlike most born into a life of wealth and privilege, he betrayed his aristocratic    

Eleanor and Franklin in Happier Times

 

 affiliations for the needs of the working class.  He was a man who overcame his own physical disabilities to help America stand on her feet again and to unfalteringly guide us through the two biggest threats in the 20th Century in the Great Depression and World War II.  And so I was pleased that the first day of our New York excursion was to Hyde Park where his life was shaped, and where he rests in peace.  But even in heroes you admire and respect you cannot ignore frailties and shortcomings, and the Roosevelt’s of Hyde Park are no exception.  Our first stop for the day was Springwood, the family  

After Polio Struck, FDR in Crutches Would Walk to the End of the lane and Back to Strengthen his Upper Body

 

 home where Franklin was born to Sara, the matriarch of the family and whose apron strings would tie her son’s   

 

  

personal life until her death in 1941.  Our tour guide explained to us that Sara insisted on an   

Eleanor and Franklin (flag) Rest in Peace in Front of Monument. Beloved Dog Fala Lies Beneath Sundial.

 

Eleanor and Winston Churchill Pay Respects at FDR Internment

 

obsessive control of her son’s affairs throughout his youth and was an affliction to the personal life of her son and his wonderful wife Eleanor; always using the loss of his inheritance as a means of control.  In 1933 FDR decided to design and build a retreat called Top Cottage near the family home to help relieve the pressures of the Presidency.  One has to wonder if he needed relief from his mother more than from the stresses of his office.  This home was the third stop on our tour and our guide filled us up with details of the historical value of the residence with incredible views of the Hudson Valley.  It was here in 1939 that FDR entertained the King and Queen of England, in hopes of gaining American support for the beleaguered British in the struggle to hold off the NAZIS.  Some of the   

Top Cottage FDR Retreat

 

View of Hudson Valley From Top Cottage

 

Paul Overlooking His Estate at Top Cottage

 

guests of the publicity stunt were Native Americans who performed traditional dances for the movie reels.  In a break from Royal protocol the monarchs were served hot dogs, and while the Queen refused the “undignified” treat the King was reaching for seconds.  Later in the war, it was the strategic meeting place where Roosevelt and Winston Churchill discussed the creation of the Atomic Bomb and what would be done with it. 
 

Val Kill Cottage, Eleanor's Retreat

 

Earlier in the day we paid a visit to Val Kill which was yet another retreat, this one for Eleanor, where she could gain respite from her husband and her overbearing mother-in-law.  Originally it was a cottage industry developed by the Roosevelts to help farming families supplement their income by learning to make furniture.  Because of the Depression it was closed down in 1936 and remodeled into a private residence for Eleanor.  This modest resort, and the only property Eleanor ever owned, was not only a getaway from Sara, but a place where she developed as an individual and where she spent most of her life after her husband’s death and until her own death in 1962.  Inside we watched a 20 minute video of Eleanor and how she developed into the most dominant woman in America in her day.  I did not know that the KKK had a $40,000 reward for her death, yet she never hired a body guard.  The more I learn about this woman the more I love her.  From here she wrote a syndicated column six day a week called “My Day,” read by millions.  Here she developed her own political ideas and broke the traditional role of a first lady to become the “eyes, ears, and legs” of FDR and the New Deal.  Sadly it was at Val Kill that she learned that her husband had died while in the company of his mistress, her former personal secretary Lucy Mercer.  Later in her life she hosted many dignitaries at the home including John F. Kennedy who paid her a visit to gain her endorsement for the presidency in 1959.    

Fala, America's First Dog and FDR's Closest Friend

 

FDR With His Most Trusted Friend

 

FDR's Wheelchair, Proof That Disabilities are Not Limitations

 

Eastern Mockingbird on Cliff Overlooking Hudson River

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Together, Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt accomplished more good for the American people than any other couple in our history.  They are buried side by side at the Springwood home, in Sara Roosevelt’s rose garden.  Even dysfunctional families come together in the end.
 

The Mighty Hudson From Cliffs Below the Culinary Institute of America

 

June 24, 2010 / howardmestas

AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY

Eastern Woodlands Indians Basketworks

Best Museum on the Planet

On our final day in the city we visited the New York Historical Society and spent the morning with an object based learning activity like no other since these objects were one of a kind.  We were given a tour of the Luce Center where some of the most significant artifacts of early New York history were on display.  This was one of those places where I wished we could have spent more time just to look and not have to do activities since of the artifacts were priceless; there was even a macabre looking death mask of none other than William Tecumseh Sherman.  This was the only

Sherman Death Mask

 museum we had been to where there were artifacts from the Dutch period in Manhattan and from the prerevolutionary period of English occupation.  This was the stuff I had been hoping to see, but you can’t see everything.  Later we had a lesson on how the city was torn over the issue of which side to support during the Civil War.  I have to admit I was surprised to learn that the city was completely divided with the business factions opposing the war since slavery was necessary for cotton production which in turn fed the highly profitable garment industry.  Until this point I thought that the only ones opposed to freeing the slaves were the Irish since newly freed men would flood the already tight job market and compete with all the immigrant groups.  And of course there was bountiful racism involved based on the atrocities committed against African Americans during the riots of 1863.  One again we were pleasantly surprised with the gift of teaching materials including a disk with power points about the topics we discussed.

Lions? Did Somebody Say Lions?

For the afternoon we visited the greatest natural history museum on the planet, a

Olmec Jade Necklace

place I could spend an entire week visiting by itself.  Someday I may just do that.  There were so many fascinating things to see and learn in this enormous building.  I was captivated by the African exhibit which traced the continent’s history from early humans to the present.  What an amazing story that continent has to tell.  On the third floor was the most complete display of Native American artifacts I have ever seen from the Eastern

Olmec Dog

 Woodlands tribes to those of the Pacific Northwest.  There was an entire hallway with displays of toys and games for children and adults.  This is something I am excited to share with my middle school students since they can be assigned to make these object as part of a project.  This display added a whole new realm of respect that I have for Native Americans; to see how much time they spent in creating fun activities for their children.  These are the same people that were called “Savages” by their European conquerors.

On my return trip to Brooklyn I decided to visit the Chrysler Building and Grand

Awesome Design Of Chrysler Building

Central Station where I could catch the 5-train Lexington Express.  The walk down forty second street was something unexpected as it was a very lively part of town very comparable to Times Square.  The view of the Chrysler edifice could very well be the most beautiful building in New York City with its Art Deco design, very popular in the 1920’s and 30’s.  At one time it was the

Gargoyle Guarding Chrysler Building

 tallest building in the World until the Empire State Building surpassed it in 1931.   It is a structure of focus in many movies including Spiderman and Godzilla in 1998.  Grand Central Station, below the skyscraper, was also spectacular but for different reasons.  I have always had a habit of referring a crowded room by using the old saying, “What is this, Grand Central Station?”  Obviously somebody coined that phrase and now I know why.  This is one of the busiest places on earth and has been since the early 20th Century.  Even today there are around 500,000 visitors daily.  Anyone who boards a train into the city will exit there and have access

Grand Central Station Clock

to another 100 tracks they could board from there.  I can’t recall how many movies I have seen of this building, going back to the silent kinds.  I decided to eat in one of the scores of restaurants on the basement floor and ended up with the best meal I have had in the city.  It was at a place called Juniors and I had a 10 ounce bacon cheeseburger that I will never forget.  But it was the desert that was to be remembered most; it was a slice of chocolate swirl cheesecake.  It wasn’t until I called my wife about the experience that she informed me that Juniors has the most prized cheesecake in America and they deliver around the nation.  You can order online, and even on QVC.  Now it can’t get any better than that.

Inside Grand Central Station

June 20, 2010 / howardmestas

Wall Street, Colonial New York

Ground Zero in background of St Paul's Chapel Cemetery

A WALKING TOUR TO REMEMBER

Today was our walking tour of Wall Street and Colonial New York with Ed O’Donnell of Holy Cross University.  Our walk started with a serene eye opener when we visited a burial ground where the remains of close to 500 hundred African Slaves were interred.  Appropriately a memorial honoring their tragic lives is in place, but not until over 300 years and 17 feet of earth later.  History is only recently revealing that colonial New York had the largest slave population if the original 13 for most of the17th and 18th centuries before finally relinquishing that disgusting statistic to some of the southern colonies.  All told, hidden in the ground were some 20,000 souls without markers to show even the slightest appreciation of their limitless sacrifices, three thousand miles away from their homeland.  To illustrate American hypocrisy, only a short distance away were two colonial churches encircled with dignified tombstones, many for the very people who owned the slaves.  Go figure.

Soon we were learning about the history of City Hall and how it became the cash cow

Bomb Sniffing Dog

for Boss Tweed’s infamous Tammany Hall scam; ironically the same building today houses the NYC public schools office.  As

Planters that are really street barriers

 bad as Tweed’s corruption was (and it was shocking) it paled in comparison to the current shenanigans of modern day Wall Street, just a few blocks down the street.  It was at this point in our walk where O’Donnell was like a walking kiosk of information, identifying locations of important buildings and events in early Manhattan.  Regrettably, unlike Boston, New York did not preserve its colonial landmarks choosing instead to build over the sites for commercial interests.  We saw where the Sons of Liberty protested the Stamp Act and where the colonial militia drilled, and where Hamilton and Jefferson walked while agreeing to a compromise that would move the nation’s capital from New York City to the south in exchange for Hamilton’s financial plan.  O’Donnell paused for a moment and pointed to a patch of blue sky between two

Twin Towers once occupied this open space

 buildings and told us that before September 11, 2001 The World Trade Center Towers would have occupied that open space.  Soon the past and the present would collide as we walked toward St. Paul’s Chapel, Manhattan’s oldest public building in continuous use, surrounded by headstones from the 18th Century.  It was here where Washington attended services on the day of his first inauguration, and where firefighters rested after the 911 attacks.  Inside was an emotional journey and I became choked up when I saw the fireman badge tribute to the hundreds of dead heroes who perished when the Twin Towers collapsed.  It’s amazing to think that this building (and the tombstones) remained

Engine 10 Still Going

standing on that tragic day, and remarkable to see American resilience as construction of the new Freedom Towers is ongoing.  Our walk continued to Bowling Green and the Battery, and eventually through the financial district.  The police presence throughout the entire downtown area was incredible, but then one has to remember that Manhattan is the number one terrorist target in the world.  Scattered along every street are the ubiquitous street barriers, some even disguised as planter boxes; all placed in locations that would

No Bull!

 prevent any idiot from driving a truck bomb in an attempt to blow up a building.  Eventually, we reached a corner of great significance, a place where Washington was sworn in to become the first President, a scene very prominent in the HBO miniseries, John Adams.  Sadly all that remains is the stone that Washington stood upon during the ceremony.   A statue of the President gazes about fifty yards down the street to the New York Stock Exchange; you have to wonder about what he would he say about Manhattan and the entire country if he were to able return for just a moment.  No doubt he would be overwhelmed, but would he be happy or sad?

Washington overlooking NY Stock Exchange

Lies Our Textbooks Tell Us

Dutch Pursuit of Beaver Pelts

June 15, 2010 / howardmestas

BASEBALL, THE STORY OF AMERICA

 

A HALL OF FAME CITY

Baseball is America’s pastime and it was obvious with today’s visit to Cooperstown.  But the Hall of Fame is more than just career statistics manufactured by incredible athletes; it’s also about Americana.  Display cabinets showed heroes, trophies, and personal effects, but it was the images of fans that consumed my interest.  All demographics of our country were in the backgrounds of photographs; American history, folklore, and tradition were alive in every room.  The history of social justice and gender equality were very prominent and it was baseball that helped our nation make it through some of the most challenging times of wars and economic depressions. More than anything else the Hall showcased our undying love for the game and our collective spirit of hope for the year that our team will reach the pennant and the belief that there is “always next year.”  All American icons, including movie stars and presidents want to be associated with a favorite team, or player.  We all want to be part of a winning club, and it doesn’t matter if the team is from our own city.  Perhaps the greatest legacy is that baseball transcends our differences like nothing else.  Rich or poor, black or white, man or woman, old or young; we are all as one when cheering for our team.

  

PATH TO OTSEGO LAKE

 

A LITTLE FRIEND IN COOPERSTOWN

June 14, 2010 / howardmestas

SAGAMORE HILL

Teddy Roosevelt Home

 

MY FAVORITE PRESIDENT  

Today was a very happy one for me as I was able to celebrate the life of a person very dear to my heart.  Anyone who knows me personally understands that my greatest joy is spending moments of solitude, making that magical connection to the natural world.  For the past week I have been immersed in the most fascinating urban center on earth and although it has been spectacular, I have still been in touch with the natural side.  I am fascinated by the variety of trees on the east coast, even in the cities, and I am on constant lookout for living things besides humans.  Even on the busiest streets I have seen squirrels and butterflies, turtles and moths.  And the birds, so many wonderful birds! I have seen everything from pigeons to raptors, cardinals and house finches.  All of these creatures are aloof to the goings on of the hordes of humanity surrounding them.  It is springtime and they are busy finding mates, building nests and nurturing young.  It is amazing to see how many creative ways a sparrow can use a man made structure to manufacture a nest.  Wild things can make it with or without us; it’s just more fun when we choose to be partners and not just masters of the ecosystem.  All of which brings me back to Teddy Roosevelt; a man who had the foresight to fight for our natural resources while there was still something left to save.  A visionary who realized that all distant generations could experience wild creatures, only if we preserved the habitat essential to their survival.  By the turn of the 20th Century some sixty million American Bison were reduced to a herd of less than a few hundred.  In opposition to a powerful industrialist lobby, Roosevelt created the very first national park called Yellowstone.  It was the beginning a concept that should be sacred to all who love wild places.  Being Green is a popular movement, but it had a champion long ago.  Today it was an honor to pay homage to the final resting place of Teddy Roosevelt, on a hill alive with the vibrant activity of creatures in the forest.  Rest well my friend; each time I delight in the bliss of public lands, I remember you with fondness.

June 10, 2010 / howardmestas

TIME TRAVELERS IN THE LOWER EAST SIDE

American Robin On Headstone Perch

Although the bemused Robin in the photo cares little of the complicated condition of his two-legged visitors, his curious perch tells a fascinating story.  The marker on which he has landed is a final resting ground for many Jews who died fighting for America in the Revolution.  By itself, this would be memorable story, until you realize the cemetery is on the Lower East Side of New York City; on property right next to an Irish Catholic church on ground that used to be Little Italy, but is now called Chinatown.  Long ago the area was used by English farmers who claimed the land from their Dutch predecessors who called the land the Bowery, or land of farms.  In fact famed Dutch West India Company commander Peter Stuyvesant’s Bowery was not far from this very location.  For about a century these surroundings were interspersed with the forced labor of slaves from West Africa and the Caribbean.  And, of course, before that there were the Native Americans.  During the American Revolution, this area was a desperation escape passage for George Washington’s troops who hastily retreated from Brooklyn Heights across the East River.  Eventually the British would occupy this area for seven long years until the war was over.  Over the next two centuries the area would see millions of newcomers from every conceivable corner of the earth; all seeking to improve their station in life before advancing beyond when the opportunity was right.  This is a cycle that has repeated itself many times and will continue long after our brief interlude on earth has passed.   

And so the Robin just like us, is a fellow time traveler sharing a borrowed space; as will the multitudes that will surely follow.  As humans we live in a perplexing world with the combined gift and curse of knowing our mortality; we should be envious of birds.   

 

June 10, 2010 / howardmestas

THE SOUP NAZI LIVES!

NO SOUP FOR YOU!

NO SOUP FOR YOU!

I apologize in advance to all I may offend.

Our trip through the Lower East Side was enjoyable and educational as expected but the lunch ordeal at Katz’s Delicatessen was not one I enjoyed.  Not only was the menu limited to all the same choices, but the prison like method of food dispersal and the subservient method of acquiring portions made me appreciate all the bad restaurants I have ever been to.  The whole experience revived chilling flashbacks of junior high lunch lines at Catholic School Catechism where nuns would beat you to paralysis if you smiled or breathed out of your appointed air space.  At least then you were allowed to carry your own trays through the line and were able to point to the gruesome options before you.  Here you had to wait until the gulag guards felt you were worthy of that distinction.  Then, reeking with graveyard humor, they asked about what species of pickles you wanted.  There were semi-raw pickles, off color pickles, tomato pickles, pickled freeze dried pickles on a stick, and so on.  As the lines slowly inched forward, the elevated dispersers came into view and then they would glare impatiently until you were demoralized into making your bad choices.  And then suddenly it all came rushing toward me, like a subway train emerging out of the darkness.  With terror I realized my server was the Soup Nazi!  I remember he was out of a job when the Seinfeld series ended and here he was, back in the lineup and he’s face-to-face.  What happened next is hard to remember as I may have blacked out; but I hastily paid my bill and left the confines, running out into the street without looking for cars.  I survived Soup Nazi Death Camp and I have a story to tell about the Lower East Side!

 

June 9, 2010 / howardmestas

THE BRIDGE TO UNDERSTANDING HISTORY

 
THE GREAT BRIDGE!

What an awesome day!  Finally I can say I walked across the Great Bridge! 

After reading David McCullough’s book and learning of the monumental challenges of connecting the first and third largest cities in America, it was a surreal moment to finally be there.  As if the moment could possibly be better, the weather conditions were perfect with clear skies and a cooling breeze.  Our guide Ed O’Donnell was once again a walking encyclopedia of facts and details and was incredibly tolerant of my countless questions.  One of the many revealing details he pointed out was the location of where Washington Roebling was confined from illness for eleven years and where his devoted wife relayed the instructions for each day.  You can read it in a book or watch it on TV, but when you stand on the bridge and see it for yourself your perspective finally makes sense.  I plan to use the example of Emily Roebling to enable my students to understand how unappreciated her contributions were only because of her gender.  It wasn’t until decades later that our testosterone laden society finally began to accept her contributions.  The views of the Statue of Liberty were exceptional and seeing its location in the harbor from the bridge also added incredible perspective.  The experience of this day on the bridge will be one that I will never forget; one of the highlights of my life. 

The middle part of our day was not so happy, but was a great reality check as we visited the Museum of the slave graveyard.  The video made me very sad for so many who had the joy of life stolen away from them.  It is incredible to think of how far we have come with the Governor of New York, the President of the United States, and a former mayor of the city all being descendants of slaves. 

Finally, we took our walking tour of Central Park, the place I always wanted to see ever since I was hooked on the television series “Friends” in the nineties.  I had taken a couple of short excursions in previous days on the trip, but today was the total experience.  Since I am a bird watcher and a dog lover, the park was extra special.  One of the things O’Donnell said that shocked me was that every single tree in the park was planted and nothing but the giant rocks was original.  I guess that’s why Central Park is called the greatest piece of art in New York City. 

Lady Liberty from the Great Bridge

 

LILY IN THE PARK

 

SLACKER TURTLE

 

ED, WHO IS NOT A SLACKER

 

PRETTY FLOWERS IN THE PARK

 

AN AMAZING OWL AND HIS FRIEND

 

 

June 20, 2010 / howardmestas

Bus Tour of Manhattan

Italian Market

The Real “Little Italy”

Today we gave our feet a break and enjoyed a bus tour with Kenneth Jackson from Columbia University.  Originally we were supposed to only tour Harlem and the Bronx, but it ended up being nearly the entire city, which was fine by me because Jackson is not only a scholar of the city he was witness to notable periods of transition in urban renewal, ethnic and religious flight, and the growth of business due to the decline in criminal activity.  It was nice to go on a cruise and have him point out things like the subway that went through buildings and the café shown on the Seinfeld series.  I was excited when, out of nowhere, he had us walk up a hill to show us the Morris-Jumel Mansion where Washington hid out while the British occupied Manhattan.  I always wondered where he fled after the disastrous defeat at Brooklyn Heights, and just like that, unexpectedly I now know!  And amazingly, without even

Morris-Jumel Mansion

 having to ask, he points out where the Polo Grounds were located and Willie Mayes made his incredibly fabulous overhead catch.  And later he shows us a restaurant where the waiter was so rude and abusive to Robert De Niro, he decided to cast him as an extra in the movie he was filming.  That rude, squeaky voiced waiter turned out to be Joe Pesci (what a shocker!).  It was good to see that places like Harlem and the Bronx were being revitalized and property values were increasing.

Eventually we did a walking tour of little Italy, and just as Jonathan said, it was definitely the “real” little Italy.  The shops and restaurants gave us an understanding of what is meant by a “neighborhood” setting of the boroughs.  For lunch I joined the renowned scholar

Mangia! Mangia!

Brett Bridgeman for some real Italian cuisine at a place called Emilia’s.  I can’t recall what I ordered, I only know it was very good and my appetizer of “Clams Oreganata” was incredibly delicious.  I can’t say our restaurant was the most original but I heard one of the waiters whisper to another, “Fredo, you’re my older brother, and I love you. But don’t take sides against the family again. Ever.”

June 9, 2010 / howardmestas

NEW YORK HISTORY MUSEUM

 
EMPIRE STATE BUILDING FROM 30 ROCK

Without question New York City lives up to its reputation; boasting cultural, financial, and political dynamics unmatched by any other urban center on the planet.  And in the time between Henry Hudson and 911, some incredible transformations occurred changing an unspoiled wilderness to what we now know as the Big Apple.  It didn’t happen overnight and it couldn’t have happened without some incredible visionaries along the way.  Today’s activities at the Museum of the City of New York helped identify some of those leaders and the obstacles they had to overcome.  Enumerating this information was our dedicated instructor for the day E.Y. Zipris who was not only informative, but so passionate about her lessons that I became motivated to use her methods.  If I didn’t learn anything else today, I was reminded that your method of delivering information to students may be the most important variable.  In other words you can baffle your students with information, but the excitement level of your delivery is probably the most important thing.  E. Y. was a master of delivery, but she also brought loads of information with some innovative methods on how to teach it.  The best idea I learned for the day was to place an actual grid on the floor and use the students like virtual chess pieces to represent buildings and neighborhoods.  Who knew city planning could be so much fun!  Even though Lemo and Hutch looked like begrudging dance partners.  I also liked the idea of using small cardboard boxes that could be written on and accessorized to be used to represent buildings that could be moved around on the grid.  What a great method to teach about the history and development of any community.

NOT A TRAINING BRA, YOU ARE A STREET LIGHT

 

THIS GUY LOOKS FAMILIAR, MAYOR LINDSAY BACK FROM THE DEAD?

I MEAN SERIOUSLY, COULD IT BE HIM?

ITS HAS TO BE HIM! JUST LOOK AT THE POSTER OF HIS YOUTH! JUST LIKE ELVIS HE'S NOT DEAD!

June 7, 2010 / howardmestas

WORLD’S BEST ART MUSEUM

 

  

Man’s Best Friend

       

HISTORY FOR THE VISUAL LEARNER!      

You always hear about The Metropolitan Museum of Art, especially when you read the photo credits of books and magazines about American History; but you still get overwhelmed when you see it in person.  Our tour guide was a very gracious and knowledgeable person; however, I’m sad to say she spent too much time explaining the obvious to veteran U.S. History teachers.  Our tour was of the American Collection with the beginning parts focusing on architecture and housing as it progressed through the 17th and 18th Centuries.  It was amazing to see a Frank Lloyd Wright building in the museum!  Our guide showed us some early portraits of His Excellency George Washington and later we saw a very famous portrait of John Brown as he was leaving for the gallows.  I was very pleased to see the John Brown painting as I have seen it in every text book I have ever used, plus I watched a documentary about it on TV.  Equally I was very disappointed that the famous portrait of Washington Crossing the Delaware was only recently removed from the museum.  I had been waiting to see this painting in person ever since we were at Washington’s Crossing National Park two years ago.  It was like being told by your parents that there was no Santa the night before Christmas.      

When we were finally on our own my first (and predetermined) choice was the Lehman Collection where I knew I would find some famous American landscape portraits.  I love to see how beautiful wilderness of this country was before Europeans conquered the rivers and cut down the forests.  I was not disappointed and was thrilled when I discovered the landscape oils were NOT behind a glass window; you could actually take pictures without reflections.  I was very happy with my photos and I can’t wait to see them on my big monitor at home.  It was a great day at the Met and I can’t wait to use it in my lesson plans.      

My favorite piece for the entire day was a romanticized scene of a Native American village in the mountains with a waterfall and a lake serving as a giant reflecting pool.  It is the return of a hunting party and everyone in the village is excited about the bounty.  Sadly, it looks better from a distance and I was unable to get a good photo of it…but I posted it anyway.  Another favorite is called “Kindred Spirits” and according to the information plaque, it is the “quintessential Hudson River School landscape” portrait.  I also liked a painting called “Banks of the Loing” which gives me great anticipation of the Erie Canal when we see it.  I also included in my post a famous portrait of Alexander Hamilton (perhaps the most overlooked guy in creating the Big Apple) and a parade of knights in shining armor.  But the object of my heart’s affection for the day was a small iron hunting dog made sometime in 15th or 16th Century Europe.      

BANKS OF THE LOING

 

KINDRED SPIRITS

 

RETURN FROM THE HUNT

 

STAINED GLASS PANEL

 

ALEXANDER HAMILTON

 

PARADE OF KNIGHTS

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

April 2, 2010 / howardmestas

The Island at the Center of the World

Ships entering the Dutch Port of Manhattan

The Island at the Center of the World

Somewhere in the middle of New York City, in a place of honor, there should be an enormous monument dedicated to 17th Dutch colonist Adriaen Van der Donck.  Likewise, appropriate mention of his name should grace the halls of Congress in the company of Thomas Jefferson, and John Adams.  For if these American icons are credited with the ideas of revolution and the foundation of the American Republic, van der Donck preceded them by over 120 years.  In his book, “The Island at the Center of the World,” Russell Shorto profoundly makes the case that Dutch Colonial Manhattan, and its political patriarch Van der Donck were the basis for the earliest foundation of republican government not only for New York, but America itself.  In addition the colony established the ideas of ethnic and religious tolerance on top of free market capitalism long before these experiments became accepted ideas.  These are the foundations for modern America; especially for the streets of the cultural and financial capital of the world.  And they were based on the Dutch model.    

After centuries of scholarly neglect, Dutch history in America is only recently coming to light, mainly as the result of the decades’ long work of Germanic linguistics expert Charles Gehring.  Gehring, who Shorto refers to as the “Rosetta Stone,” has meticulously deciphered a large portion of 12,000 pages of manuscripts and records after beginning his work in 1974.  Transactions of ever manner have been revealed from land purchases from Native Americans to marriage and divorce proceedings in the Colony.  What has been determined is that most of the historical “fact” we have known about New Netherland has either been negatively misrepresented, incomplete, or both.  All the reasoning for such distortion is quite obvious, the winners tell history from their point of view or from a platform that sheds the most positive light on them.  Thus, the 1664 English takeover shows a colony inhabited by individuals of the lowest order, disorganized and incapable of continued existence without immediate infusions of Anglican culture and legal discipline.

Nothing could be farther from the truth and one simply needs to begin with 17th century comparisons between England and Holland, at the time of their earliest transatlantic ventures.  England was on the verge of a century of religious wars where large groups of political and religious refugees would be forced to flee for their lives.   The Dutch, by comparison were in the business of trade in a vast network, and just as foreign goods moved into and out of ports, foreign people did as well.  Although the Dutch were not completely broad minded in mingling with their foreign lot, they were acceptant.  Tolerance, as Shorto points out, was very good for business.  Additionally, Holland was embroiled in its perpetual war for independence against their Spanish overlords and their “Catholic Inquisition” in an age when the concepts of the emerging Enlightenment seemed like a better idea.  Living the reality of being Spanish refugees within their own borders, the Dutch declared themselves a

Indians in their boats around Manhattan

 “Republic” and laid out the welcome mat for all who were fleeing political and religious tyranny throughout Europe.  Shorto writes that, “Over the course of the 17th century, the Dutch Republic would give intellectual or religious haven to Descartes, John Locke, and the English Pilgrims, the latter of whom lived in Leiden for twelve years before setting out to found a New Jerusalem in New England.”

Leiden was the preferred destination of all of Europe’s intellectual free thinkers, and its printing presses served to preserve their ideas for world.  Galileo’s “Discourses and Mathematical Demonstrations Concerning Two New Sciences” would be published in Leiden in 1638 free from Papal inquisitors and their torches.  In fact, one-half of all books published worldwide in the seventeenth century would be produced in the Netherlands.  Scientists and medical researchers of every sort wandered the streets of Leiden and the namesake university would become the home of the century’s most gifted legal mind, Dutch born Hugo de Groot, who would be known to history as Hugo Grotius.  Grotius came to the University of Leiden with revolutionary ideas about how governments should conduct themselves in times of both war and peace and centered his theories that governance should be based on “natural law” and not from “biblical citations.” His ideas would be the seminal roots for the writings of John Locke, whose own works would influence the likes of Jefferson and other writers of the Declaration of Independence.  Grotius was the leading influence as to how law was taught at Leiden and one of his many champions was Van der Donck who studied law at the university and emerged as a jurist in 1641.

Had he chosen, Van der Donck could easily have rested upon his laurels, becoming a prominent figure in a nation peaking in its golden age, but he opted for an adventurous challenge with no such guarantee.  In May 1641 he ventured across the Atlantic to become the first official “lawman” in Dutch controlled territory, one-hundred-fifty miles up the Hudson, or as the locals called it the North River.  He would serve as sheriff, judge, and jury at the pleasure of a Dutch diamond merchant in a feudal colony of Rensselaerswyck near where the city of Albany would develop.  Aside from his primary duties, Van der Donck became entranced with the wilderness environment at his doorstep, studying everything from the flora and fauna, to the Native Americans.  All discoveries would be catalogued in his major work, A Description of New Netherland.  Unlike contemporary stereotypical works of the day, his text would shine positively on the indigenous tribes classifying them as cultured, civilized people with complex societies; a far cry from the English colonial descriptions as irreligious savages.

Predictably, Van der Donck would become discontented with his role as “enforcer” of a medieval style fiefdom and in 1644 he found his way toward the nerve center of the colony, the island the Indians called Mannahatta.  It was there he became the chief counsel for settlers’ grievances against the head of the Dutch West India Company, Willem Kieft.  Kieft was a distasteful leader who was successful in unifying an incredibly diverse population into one single mindset; that of seeking his expulsion.  The worst of the many grievances against him was his disastrous military campaign against the Indians, and then his refusal to compensate colonists for property loss in the war that would follow.  Behind the scenes, Van der Donck applied his legal training, clandestinely working towards Kieft’s ouster.  The petition seeking a new leader for the colony was the first example for a redress of abuses against a leader in the new world.  Even though it did not have his name on it, experts agree that the bulk of the draft penned on behalf of the colonists was through the hand of Van der Donck who had an unusual way of describing the new world residents.  He called them “Americans.”

The new commander of Manhattan would be the legendary figure that most American’s are familiar with, Petrus “Peter” Stuyvesant who would assume his duties in 1647.  His task was to restore respectability for the West India Company, not only for the inhabitants of the colony, but in the eyes of the governing State’s General and the stock holders back in the Netherlands.  Dutch West India’s reputation had diminished by the time Stuyvesant took charge and its importance took a greater hit with the signing of a peace treaty between the Spain and the Dutch Republic a year later.  The company, after all, had been established as a base for carrying out the war.  Stuyvesant’s duties were problematic from the moment he took command, having to rule over a population that was unlike any other in the world.  Centuries before huddled masses were welcomed into the harbor, the island was a paradigm of incredible diversity acceptant to individuals of every national origin and to the belief systems they brought with them.  The inhabitants were saturated with ideas of natural rights and individual liberties, and they were tolerant of one-another’s frailties.  Nothing aside from a bad work ethic was forbidden.  Those who were indentured through apprenticeship were encouraged to advance themselves through additional careers, thus creating an assemblage of workers who could say to their benefactors, “you are my boss but not my master.”  All of these guidelines were not just tolerated, but encouraged by the Dutch Republic keenly aware that intolerance was bad for trade and business.  It was a far cry from practices in Puritan New England, and it was the place Stuyvesant was assigned to establish discipline.

It was only a matter of time before Van der Donck would again be conveying colonial grievances, this time he would carry them personally to the governing body in The Hague, where he would articulate complaints against Stuyvesant and the “Tyranny of the West India Company.”  To gain public support he would publish his work called The Remonstrance of New Netherland which would serve as the new continent’s earliest version of a declaration of independence, and it would call for a needed municipal charter that would guarantee representative government.  As fate would have it, Van der Donck was the right person at the right time for these political manifestations to occur.  Sadly, however, he was caught up in a political power struggle the Netherlands and was not present on February 2, 1653 when the city of New Amsterdam approved its new municipal charter, an acclamation that would serve to establish the cultural identity of modern New York City.  Stuyvesant, though constrained, was still powerful enough to hamstring Van der Donck’s political ambitions once he returned from abroad.   After accomplishing so much for the new city he helped invent, Van der Donck would never be a major player again.  Like the hero in a Greek Tragedy, he would die in relative obscurity, and with no monument in the island at the center of the world.

April 2, 2010 / howardmestas

GENEROUS ENEMIES

A Triuphant George Washington Enters New York City

Patriots and Loyalists in Revolutionary New York

When students of history learn about the American Revolution they are bombarded with accounts of bravery on the battlefields and the sufferings of winter encampments; and the political maneuvers of the Continental Congress.  Too often, however, the anguish and displacement of civilian populations are ignored.  In her book, “Generous Enemies,” historian Judith Van Buskirk describes in painstaking detail, the incredible burdens faced by the noncombatants of New York City and environs from 1776 to 1783.  As with any war, military quartermasters are primarily concerned with responsibilities of supplying troops; with little regard to the needs of the displaced populace.  In the case of the seven-year-long British occupation of New York City, Loyalist and Patriot civilians alike were forced to find relief with their generous counterparts on the other side.

When it became clear in early 1776 that the British would abandon Boston, panic and confusion reigned supreme among the divided inhabitants of New York City, along with surrounding areas in New Jersey and Connecticut.  Continental troops swarmed the islands at the mouth of the Hudson River, building redoubts and barriers in anticipation of the invasion from the north.  Almost immediately, Loyalists throughout the Hudson Valley faced the oppression of angry Patriot mobs that seemed bent on exploiting the situation to settle long held vendettas.  Property was vandalized; possessions were stolen, and tarring and feathering scenes were not uncommon.  Tories in New York City were forced to become refugees in the surrounding countryside.  But by the end of June in that year, the tides of war would change with the arrival of the British fleet.  By September thirty-two thousand redcoats would replace rebel forces in the city, clearing the way for streams of Loyalist citizens returning to reclaim their property and settle scores.  By this time the largest faction of New Yorkers who had not yet taken sides were in the position where they would have to take a stand.  As Van Buskirk writes, “In the early going, these various wings of the Revolutionary movement had not figured out who they were, what they were supposed to do, or where their responsibilities ended and the next group’s began.”

In contrast to long held beliefs, the British army showed a contemptibly small amount of kinship toward the throngs who remained loyal to the king, focusing instead on the impressments of private property and the pressured recruitment of locals for service in the military.  Two polarized camps would evolve with the Tories occupying the city as the patriot Whig factions settled on the perimeter.  Both sides suffered hardships with the demands of the military, and as the war dragged on and supplies dwindled, it became clear to civilians that their needs would be subordinate to those their respective armies.  With the goal of basic survival and a few creature comforts, opposing political factions began to seek their needs from an old and familiar source they knew they could rely on, their erstwhile friends and family on the other side.  Van Buskirk notes, “A family member within enemy lines still needed help, and an illegal shipment of flour from a relative outside those lines could be arranged.  Such basic human concerns solidified into networks that throughout the war operated actively across no-man’s-land and into the heart of enemy territory.”

Early on, commanders on each side eased “emergency” travel restrictions; only because they were aware that the citizenry were so familiar with the terrain that their movement would be impossible to contain.  Letters between family and friends on each side were common.  Women in particular were accorded more freedom of movement because they were fulfilling the traditional role as “nurturers, providers, and caregivers.”  They would be the ones who were frequently seen at the windows of the city’s prisons aiding relatives because they were not considered to be a threat.  Women could go where no man would dare, but only because they were determined to be “weak and childlike.”  This mobility would afford women the opportunity of being the greatest purveyors of information that could be beneficial to enemy camps.  Van Buskirk writes that, “The news they brought back home and disseminated far exceeded the contribution of famous spies like Nathan Hale.”

During the British occupation, African Americans (free and slave) also enjoyed a greater personal status as never before experienced in the colonies.  Any measure of skill or muscle energy they could provide would be an equal measure of loss to their masters, and to the American side.  With the promise of freedom, thousands flocked to the British side where they roamed freely within occupied lines; many would serve proudly as members of the King’s Navy.  They would become so valuable a commodity that they could negotiate with their former masters for the freedom of their wives and children and for better working conditions if they promised to return.  The British were conscientious of their promises made and availed every effort after the war to evacuate slaves who served, much to the dismay of George Washington who felt they were property that should return to their owners.

Van Buskirk’s research also shattered long propagated myths that the goals of the founders somehow included the creation of an egalitarian society.  Nothing could be farther from the truth; one needs only to examine the disparities in treatment between prisoners of rank and privilege versus the brutality reserved for enlisted men.  In a reflection of 18th Century society, wealth and birthright usually triumphed over any sense of fairness in the military codes.  Both armies were bound by an “international confraternity of gentlemen” with courtesies extended to members of their own rank.  Captured officers on both sides enjoyed privileges granted to one another that made the war seem like some type of game played among friends.  Officers were not restricted in their travel or in their pursuit of the best available delicacies in food or entertainment.  Van Buskirk notes that, “After the battle of Saratoga, the defeated British General, John Burgoyne, stayed in the mansion house of American General, Philip Schuyler.  One week after the battle, some American officers attended a dinner at General Burgoyne’s table in the Schuyler house.”  Such arrangements were not uncommon and certainly not without the full awareness of the Congress in Philadelphia.  By comparison captured prisoners of the “lower sort” suffered incredible hardships in sugarhouses and prison ships where death from

Rhinelander's Sugar House Where American Prisoners of Low Rank were Kept

 disease and neglect were common.  Class distinctions remained a part of society even as the most difficult stages of the war unfolded, and no greater example could be given than the Benedict Arnold-John Andre spy case.  In the most egregious of crimes, Arnold’s plan risked hundreds soldiers lives and could have dealt a strategic blow that may have ended the American cause.  As fate would have it Arnold escaped to safety behind British lines while Major Andre was the captive of the American Army.  The job of espionage was not without risk and spies were hanged routinely, but Andre was a ranking British officer and American officers were sympathetic to his cause.  In what should have been a swift execution, Andre’s case dragged on for ten days before overwhelming public condemnation forced him to the gallows.  By contrast an American enlisted man was hanged just two weeks earlier for plundering.  Another soldier had recently met the same fate for his crime of forging an officer’s handwriting and handing out furloughs and discharges for some of his buddies.  Surely there was no fairness when it came to rank.

Following the events at Yorktown in 1781, Loyalists in New York began to see the writings on the wall and by the start of 1783 the peace treaty in Paris was being worked out.  Once again the reversal of power was hastening its way through the city after seven long years of British authority.  The most flagrant antagonists to American independence found themselves in desperate situations and by the spring, mass evacuations to Britain, Canada or the West Indies were ongoing.  Those who could make their case petitioned for their property or for a chance to remain.  Many of the forlorn realized their best hope was to enlist the support of those on the “other side” who would still be willing to uphold their trust and their reputations.  They would seek the comfort of their old friends and relations; those who had been generous enemies.

April 2, 2010 / howardmestas

Up The Old Hotel

Old John Behind the Bar

UP IN THE OLD HOTEL

Joseph Mitchell was a gifted writer who came to New York City from his native North Carolina just as the Great Depression struck in 1929.  He was just twenty-one years old but soon found himself as a feature writer and a police reporter for The Morning World, the Herald Times, and the World-Telegram.  He covered everything from New York cave dwellers to Albert Einstein and became one of the most popular newspapermen in the city.  His style was to establish a kinship with his subjects and was even known to take up a residence in a cheap hotel to better learn a neighborhood.  Unlike most feature writers Mitchell would seek out eccentric characters and personalities for his stories.  Where most would want to feature high class dining establishments, he would prefer feasts where patrons ate with their fingers and wiped their mouths with table cloths.  He especially felt at home in greasy spoon restaurants with unusual menus; preferably with clams or oysters picked in the bay.  As others aspired to feature the rich and famous, Mitchell would spend time with individuals who managed to eke out a living through difficult and sometimes curious circumstances.  His favorite haunts were lower East Side saloons, Greenwich Village, Harlem, and the neighborhoods near the numerous docks and piers of the city.  Regardless of where the story was told Mitchell made the reader feel as if they were a guest along for the ride and although there was a serious nature to every story, he managed a satirical poke at life’s hardships in what he referred to as “graveside humor.” Considering that most of his features were written in the middle of the nineteenth century during difficult times as Americans were recovering from the lasting effects of the Depression and World War II, his readers may have been looking for an outlet to laugh at themselves or to relish the fact that someone else was actually worse off than they were.

One of Mitchell’s most eccentric characters was a Greenwich Village nonconformist who pushed the definition of the “Bohemian” culture to extreme measures.  Upon meeting him he would introduce himself by saying, “The name is Joseph Ferdinand Gould, a graduate of Harvard, magna cum difficultate, class of 1911, and chairman of the board of Weal and Woe, Incorporated.  In exchange for a drink, I’ll recite a poem, deliver a lecture, argue a point, or take off my shoes and imitate a sea gull.  I prefer gin, but beer will do.”  Gould really was a Harvard grad, but shunned societal evils preferring a life as a street wanderer.  “A steady job would interfere with my thinking,” he claimed.  Gould’s main obsession was his mysterious book he titled “An Oral History of Our Time,” which was basically a mishmash of conversations he would hear between New York’s underclass that he would encounter in flophouses, park benches, and shelters.  By the time Mitchell first interviewed him in 1942, Gould boasted to have been working on his book for at least 26 years and proclaimed to have already written over 9,000,000 words, all in long hand.  “I’m the foremost authority in the United States on the subject of doing without,” he would say.  His diet consisted mainly of “air, self-esteem, cigarette butts, cowboy coffee, fried egg sandwiches and ketchup.”  Copious amounts of ketchup!  While Gould was having his egg sandwich it was customary to empty a bottle or two of ketchup on a plate and then eat it with a spoon!  Proprietors of diners and eateries in the Village would gather up and hide ketchup bottles when he was seen approaching.  Although he was usually a shy person, Gould was never one to pass up a good party.  And after a few free drinks he would put on a one man show with only the slightest encouragement.  He would strip to the waist and do a dance he learned while working on an Indian

Joseph Ferdinand Gould

 reservation and then take off his shoes and socks and do his incredible imitation of a sea gull; indiscriminately performing a routine with, “awkward, headlong skips about the room, flapping his arms and letting out a piercing caw with every skip.”  He was a loner and had an affinity for sea gulls ever since having one for a pet as a child.  He would say he understood the language of the gulls and that he could translate poetry into it.  When Mitchell did his first story on Gould, it was titled Professor Seagull.

Another of Mitchell’s interesting stories was about a saloon on the east side that was the oldest in all of New York City.  At the time of Mitchell’s feature in 1940 it had only seen four owners since its opening in 1854.  Originally called The Old House at Home, it eventually was renamed McSorely’s Old Saloon after its founder John McSorely affectionately known as “Old John” to his patrons.  This was a peculiar establishment for many reasons not the least of which were the clientele who Mitchell described as a “rapidly thinning group of crusty of men, predominantly Irish, who have been drinking there since they were youths and now have a proprietary feeling about the place.”  Most were lonely old men who would slept in Bowery hotels and spend nearly every waking hour in the dimly lit saloon cramped into chairs that were practically molded into their shapes.  These men had little money, mostly small pensions, and were such fixtures that their peers would assume that someone was dead when they did not show up in the saloon in a week’s time.  Owners and patrons alike were very opposed to change and a strong indication was that there was only one drink on the list, frosty mugs of ale poured perfectly from experienced bartenders.  These men were serious about their drinking and pipe smoking, to the point that women weren’t even allowed in through the doors.  As the story was told, “Old John believed it impossible for men to drink with tranquility in the presence of women.”  Between 1912 and 1930 an artist named John Sloan produced a collection of paintings that were published in national magazines.  All depicted distinctive scenes that could have been found at any given moment in the alehouse and were given titles such as, “McSorley’s Saturday Night,” and “McSorley’s Cats.”  These publications would generate many curiosity seekers to which the regulars were barely tolerant, offering only casual acceptance, “If they behave themselves and don’t ask too many questions.”

April 2, 2010 / howardmestas

The Great Bridge

The Epic Story of the Building of the Brooklyn Bridge

When you gaze upon the magnificent Manhattan skyline, it’s hard to imagine that less than 150 years ago the city’s tallest structure was a support column for a bridge.  Such was the greatness of the colossus that would connect the first and third largest cities in America.  The Brooklyn Bridge, or the “Great East River Bridge” as it was known in its early years was over a mile long and would be the world’s longest suspension bridge for 20 years following its completion in 1883.  In his book, “The Great Bridge,” bestselling author and historian David McCullough chronicles the structure from a conceptual idea through its completion; examining the staggering odds of the project ever being completed. 

The years following the Civil War were times of healing in America and according to some, the Age of Optimism.  It was a period when it seemed that all things were possible and great achievements were seen as monuments to the nations healing.  A bridge was a “particularly appealing symbol,” McCullough writes, “and seemed such a magnificent example of man’s capacity to master the forces of nature, and that, according to the preponderant wisdom, was what the whole thing was about.  Building a bridge seemed such a clean, heroic thing for a man to do.”  And spanning the East River was just as heroic as any plan could be.  There had been other suspension bridges in the world, but none across such an expanse was ever considered.  According to McCullough, “The chief problem always was the East River, which is no river at all technically speaking, but a tidal strait and one of the most turbulent and in that day, especially, one of the busiest stretches of navigable salt water anywhere on earth.”

The project, however, was not a whim; it was a necessity.  At the time the structure was being considered, Brooklyn was no longer a sleepy sea port on the western end of Long Island, instead it was a prosperous manufacturing center with a population of 400,000 and it was growing faster than New York.  It could not be ignored that the bridge would be a safe alternative to the countless ferries that crossed the channel, especially in the winter months when the passage was frozen or blocked by ice.  At least 13 boats went across the river both day and night.  “New York and Brooklyn must be united,” Horace Greeley declared in the Tribune in 1849.  The construction would commence in 1867.

Perhaps the most daunting challenges to Chief Engineer Washington A. Roebling were in constructing the foundations on which the stone suspension towers would rest.  New York Harbor is one of the deepest in the world and the tidal currents were treacherous.  The method was to use caissons, or underwater chambers that would allow men to dig out the riverbed (in search of bedrock) while actually under the river.  This method had been used in Europe but never in water as deep as this.  Caissons when lowered into the water were like inverted cups that created air chambers where workers could breath.  The trouble was that the air pressure increased as you went deeper causing “caisson sickness” which unknown to them was a form of the “bends” that divers experience when they surface too quickly.  Many workers died or became ill for life because of this ailment, including Roebling who frequented the sites as Chief Engineer.  He would later become disabled and dependent upon his faithful wife to serve as official secretary and diplomatic emissary as his illness forced his confinement throughout the project.  Before his affliction, Roebling was a familiar visitor to the caissons always seeking ways to speed up the project.  The biggest concerns were things that were unforeseen at the beginning such as the giant boulders that needed to be leveled on the New York side.  Workers were moving at a sluggish pace until Roebling made a bold decision to use explosives in the caissons.  This would improve the descent of the caissons to twelve to eighteen inches a week instead of six.  Over the years Roebling would develop many innovations that were breakthroughs in bridge technology such whitewashing the insides of the caissons to improve visibility and creating a mechanical signaling system so that workers could easily communicate with those on top.  Eventually the towers would be completed and the new challenge of creating the suspension cables was presented.  Again Roebling was an innovator by using zinc to galvanize individual wires which were spun into place creating cables.  The coating would prevent the wire from corrosion from the salt air; every step was calculated to make a lasting structure.  McCullough notes that, “The wire was to have a tested strength of not less than 160,000 pounds per square inch.”  This meant that the new bridge would have nearly double the strength of other bridges in use in the day.

After fourteen long years and numerous barriers along the way, the bridge was completed on May 24, 1883 and celebrated to extraordinary fanfare.  The accolades from politicians to editorialists were heard across the land.  On opening day Chester A. Arthur led a procession while the band played Hail to the Chief.  The New York Sun reported, “the climax of fourteen years’ suspense seemed to have been reached, since the President of the United States of America had walked dry shod to Brooklyn from New York.”  On the first full day over 150,000 crossed on foot and thousands more in carriages.  A New York policeman stated that “bridge craze” was in the air as admirers proclaimed it to be, “The Eighth Wonder of the World.”  People who were critics only a decade earlier were now broadcasting to all who could read or listen that the bridge was, “a wonder of science,” and a monument to “public spirit,” “the moral qualities of the human soul, “ and a great, everlasting symbol of “Peace.”  But more than a thing of beauty, it was an engineering marvel of practicality.  The trains began running in September, and within a year 37,000 people a day were using the bridge.  By 1888, the trains were running twenty-four hours a day and handling more than thirty million passengers a year.  Today, with a few modifications for automobile traffic, the structure is still the main junction between Brooklyn and Manhattan.  It was built for beauty and for purpose; it was built to last.  It is truly The Great Bridge. 

June 24, 2009 / howardmestas

FAREWELL WINDY CITY

CHICAGO RIVER AT NIGHT

CHICAGO RIVER AT NIGHT

What an extraordinary 10 day journey through the Civil War, Gilded Age, and the birthplace of the eight hour work day! I feel gratified I was able to fulfill the obligations of this trip and honored to have been part of such a dedicated group willing to give up their free time away from their families. The students of these teachers will never know how lucky they are. Of course special thanks to Professors Harris and Rees for their foresight in the dynamics of our mission, and for guiding us in the most beneficial ways. And kudos to Scott Whited for being the model of efficiency, and one who always manages to find the most awesome bus drivers.
Starting with the readings, everything about this class has made me a better teacher. Like so many others, I have often thrown around the words “Progressive Era” without really knowing what I was talking about; but as I look back through our educational adventure, I now feel enlightened. The history of the Midwest is generally an area neglected in favor of areas east of the Appalachians and places around the Mason-Dixon Line. But who would have thought the victory for the North in the Civil War was fueled in part through the blood of the Chicago Stockyards? And how many educators really know that the roots of the Progressive Movement started in Wisconsin?
Our first days in Springfield were awe inspiring, especially since we ended last’s year’s journey in Gettysburg. The more I learn about Abraham Lincoln, the more I appreciate the mystery of his life and what he meant to this country. The Lincoln Museum should be a destiny for anyone who wants to know what the history of this nation is all about. Visiting New Salem was a pilgrimage to his greatness and a place where I felt I was living the prologue of his incredible American odyssey. It was remarkable that this year’s journey ended at the Pullman Factory where Lincoln’s funeral car was created, and his last living family member (Robert Todd Lincoln) served as company president. Amazing!
When reviewing the blog pages it’s fascinating to think we were at all those places. How many dedicated people, with such passion for American History did we encounter? There were so many speakers, curators, and professors…all experts in topics we were eager to learn more about. I would like to say I had a favorite moment, or person, but that would be insincere. All were unique and special.
Sometimes unplanned things happen for all the right reasons. It happened for me on the night before we went to Wisconsin. Since it was rainy all day, and cloudy and gloomy that night, the streets were pretty empty and quiet. What a great time to do something fun without crowds and distractions, and for me that something would be visiting Sear’s Tower. And because I like to do things at my own snail’s pace, I would be making the adventure on my own. In a giant boost of confidence I was able to navigate the subway system by myself and within 10 minutes I was exiting the “L” just beneath the towers.
However, nothing worth experiencing ever happens without some sacrifice, in this case it would be my time. The tower was closed because, even though it had stopped raining, the clouds were still hanging out above the 90th floor well below the observation deck. I would have to wait. As the twilight closed in on the city, the sky began to clear. By this time, only one diehard couple was still around to join me on the trip to the top. It was well worth the wait, we had the city skyline to ourselves for two hours! My guide was a man named Lonnie, who was an expert on Chicago, and eager to share any story.
From my perch I was able to see Lake Michigan, where only days before I had waded along its shoreline. I could see where two branches of the Chicago River joined, and the location of what was Fort Dearborn, destroyed by Potawatomi Indians in 1812. With Lonnie’s help, I could see where the Great Fire of 1871 started and the horrific path it followed. It was a new perspective on the fire, much different than following its devastation on a map. I saw the location of the Union Stockyards and my imagination took me back to Upton Sinclair’s book. I was shown the locations of Hull House, Haymarket Square, and the infamous Levee District. Off in the distance was the spot of the 1893 Columbian Exposition, and further north, Wrigley Field. My guide pointed out the individual turfs of Bugs Moran and Al Capone, and the site of the St. Valentine’s Day Massacre. All at once, our journey came into focus; we hit the jackpot with this trip.
I know (since we are constantly reminded by Professor Rees) that Jurgis Rudkus was a fictional person. However, there were hundreds of thousands who lived his story. I thought about these people many times on our trip, nameless and homeless like so many who ask for “spare change” on the night streets of the city today. How difficult their struggles must have been in a foreign land, especially in the unforgiving winter months. What desperation they must have felt to have been jobless and blacklisted by greedy factory owners and corrupt politicians; begging for handouts in a language that no one understood. So many perished, but so many more survived. Their progeny have made this city the melting pot it is today.

June 22, 2009 / howardmestas

MARTYRS FOR US ALL

CHICAGO STOCKYARD GATE

CHICAGO STOCKYARD GATE

CHICAGO LABOR HISTORY TOUR

Our final day in Chicago proved to be one of the most informative of the entire trip, and a culminating activity of all our books and classes. When we entered the bus and were introduced to Dr. William Adelman, I didn’t know we were meeting an “institution” of Chicago’s labor history. When this man dies, it will be like a library burning down in the city. And, as if through intervention from a ghost of organized labor’s past, the rainy weather set the mood for a day that helped us all revisit the struggles that helped establish the working standards we all enjoy today.

Researching about the Haymarket Affair, with all its tragedies was a learning experience, but seeing where it all happened made it a living encounter. It’s incredible to think that this site was responsible for May Day, or International Worker’s Day celebrations throughout the world commemorating the struggle for the eight hour day. It’s also sad to realize that the U.S. and Canada are the only two nations on the planet who do not celebrate the holiday.

Dr. Adelman was very poignant in his homage to the entire affair including stops through the courthouse where the injustices were carried through, to the exact location of where the gallows stood and four innocent men were hanged. It’s sickening to think of how the entire tragedy unfolded, and it is also easy to see why these five men (one committed suicide) are considered martyrs who inspired hundreds of thousands of Chicagoans to turn out for the funeral procession. Many teachers on the bus were grumbling about how biased Adelman was toward left-leaning politics, but to me it was all about passion. Here is a man who has spent his entire adult life reliving the struggles of labor versus capital, with all the atrocities that colossal wealth can inflict. I applaud his viewpoints, how could you rationally expect him to be anything else?

Our next stop was at the Martyr’s Monument at the Forest Home Cemetery where it was obvious, even in the rain, that those who fought for worker’s rights were not forgotten. Remnants of flowers and ribbons could be seen in revered places, and Dr. Adelman would continue that veneration by placing red roses with the help of some in our group. The bodies beneath those stones are silent now, but their deeds live on in the collective bargaining the working class enjoys today. It was a solemn moment I’m glad I experienced; it helped put all those many sacrifices in perspective.

Our trip to the Lithuanian restaurant was memorable as well, not only for the unique and tasty food, but because it was a reflection of the many cultures who arrived in Chicago from far away places in search of a better life. To think, these workers may be the descendants of the many downtrodden stockyard workers as described by Upton Sinclair in “The Jungle.” The memorabilia on the walls served as reminders of their distant homeland and their forefathers. What a melting pot Chicago was, and still is.

All day long the gates of the packing houses were besieged by starving and penniless men; they came, literally, by the thousands every single morning, fighting with each other for a chance of life.
UPTON SINCLAIR, “THE JUNGLE”

Seeing the Stockyard gate was an eerie experience. This was the desired focal point of so many immigrants who left their homes for the American dream only to find they would have to compete with thousands of others in a dog-eat-dog environment. This was a place where greedy magnates grew wealthier through the toil of so many who were in a desperate attempt just to survive. Where ambitions met realities through the scope of Social Darwinism, and only the fittest, or perhaps the luckiest survived. I had a solemn reflection of the nearly 400 million animals, who through no fault of their own met their painful destiny there. Yet all that remains is the gate.

Our final stop was the location of the most famous planned community in America and where Pullman Palace Railroad Cars were made. A turbulent strike with a nationwide audience occurred there in 1894 after owner George Pullman kept employees rents the same even though there was a huge cut in their wages. Pullman’s plan was to provide everything his workers could need for basic survival, however, there were many rules that kept them in a cycle of dependence on the community. Political, economic, and social rights were impossible; and when changes or new demands occurred, the workers were at the complete mercy of the owner. This was very similar to the company towns of CF&I in the Southern Colorado where workers had everything, except freedom to move up in life. Under these conditions, strikes are always inevitable. The tour ended with an extraordinary comment from Dr. Adelman when he pointed out the home of the company doctor who gave depositions blaming the lead poisoning of workers on their own personal alcoholism. This gave a final touch to the tour and an insight to Pullman’s attitude towards his employees. Publically he called the workers in the town his “children,” but reality was a different tale.

June 17, 2009 / howardmestas

HAPPY IN MADISON

BADGER STATE CAPITOL

BADGER STATE CAPITOL

THE BADGER STATE!

“Badgers, we don’t need no stinking badgers!” Okay, a lame attempt at a famous quote about sheriff’s badges in “Treasure of the Sierra Madre,” (with Humphrey Bogart) and later spoofed in “Blazing Saddles.” My last experience with real badgers was actually years ago as I laughed watching my brother being chased by one of those fierce little devils as I kept driving my pickup ahead, not allowing him to reach safety. As it turned out, it was only funny to me.

But today there were no badgers to be seen, unless you had a good imagination. I looked extremely hard to see that long-clawed furry little creature on the head of that woman’s statue (as we were told) and found nothing! But according to the people of Wisconsin, every citizen there is a badger, if only in spirit. And really, that’s how everybody acted in the city of Madison today. Any research about badgers will reveal that they are tenacious, territorial little guys that will stop at nothing once they’ve established a goal (usually some poor little ground squirrel). That tenacity was in evidence by all the 2-legged badgers on the University of Wisconsin Madison Campus today. I found the speakers and volunteers to be, to the point, and totally focused on their task at hand and like their toothy namesakes, very bold and convincing. I found it hilarious, yet satisfying when Professor Stan Schultz said that he could convince you of a fact, even if it wasn’t really true; just to get the point across. That’s a teaching method I can agree with. And speaking of Dr. Schultz, Professor Rees was spot on in the promo of his teaching methods and his expertise of the Progressive Movement. I liked his contention that the movement started at the grassroots level and persevered for years until the opportunity to get established was realized; in this case the candidacy of Teddy Roosevelt . The whole plan was put in to play through the vision and courage of Wisconsin Congressman Robert La Follette, a real badger of a personality if there ever was one.

Jonathan Pollack’s presentation showed us an innovative way to teach with documents by showing us the changing standards for naturalization following the previous easy road to citizenship up to the 1890’s. I need to find out how to acquire similar documents because that is a great idea on how to teach other subject areas using primary sources. I can’t imagine how difficult the naturalization paperwork is today, but Pollack mentioned that it would require dreaded lawyers to get involved. His methods for teaching public sentiments on immigration were very interesting; I wished I could have asked him more about comparisons between then and now. I also regret there was not enough time to hear him present a historic moment using the voice of sportscaster Dick Vitale, as he did briefly during our great lunch. On a badger rating I would have to give him about a 6-out-of-10 since he wasn’t as aggressive as the others before him.

Harry Miller was the only mild mannered beast of the entire badger pack, but his savvy on how to navigate the incredible UMW history website was very useful. I can hardly wait to start using the webpage since I love historical maps, photos, and paintings.

Jonathon was right, Wisconsin is an interesting state and worth visiting without having to be on your way back from somewhere else. If nothing else, going back for the beer brats would be reason enough. I’m sure our four legged friends would enjoy them as well.

June 13, 2009 / howardmestas

THE HULL HOUSE EXPERIENCE

HULL HOUSE AND BOAT TOUR 003

As a history teacher I’m embarrassed to say that the first time I ever heard of Jane Addams and Hull House was last fall at a workshop, but that was before I began researching about Chicago. I now find it incredible, that in the history of the city, she still remains such a small figure. Perhaps it is because of her gender (women tend to get lost in history textbooks), or maybe because the powers who financed the growth of the city were probably a targets of her reform movement at some time. I’d like to think that if the history of the city was written by those who were not born into privilege, she would be on the cover of all the books.

Addams was representative of an individual who was bigger than most in that she actually walked the walk by leaving a life of a socialite to help those who were incredibly less fortunate. Seriously, how many heroes in our nation’s history have actually worked their way down from the top to help others?

Around the latter decades of the 19th Century, rich families began to allow their daughters to attend colleges, as with their sons, and then complete the final cultivation of their scholarship with the obligatory tour of Europe. Then suddenly the doors of opportunity would open widely for the young men and slam shut for their counterparts. This was usually the end of the road for young and brilliant females, but while in England, Addams learned that women could use their wealth and education to make a difference as social reformers; and so Hull House was purchased with her inheritance and the legacy began.

How important was Hull House as a social settlement location? As it turns out, it was a favorite stop for Upton Sinclair as he researched for his book “The Jungle.” His interviews with those seeking refuge and support (especially displaced immigrants) reveal many compelling hardships in the pages of his famous novel. At Hull House, as with many other such places in Chicago, homeless and displaced individuals could find a hot meal, but more importantly they would meet friends who would help them get a new start in an otherwise unfriendly devouring beast of a city. Lost souls, and their children, could learn the skills that would enable them to acclimate to a foreign land; things like learning to read and write could make a world of a difference. A smile at the entrance signaling that you were indeed welcome was by itself a boost that could restart many broken spirits.

There were many facts and details that were given on our visit today, but the sincere welcoming and warmth of the staff and their commitment to the continuity of good deeds was by itself the lesson of the Hull House experience. Jane Addams would have been proud.

June 11, 2009 / howardmestas

ARCHITECTURE IS COOL AFTERALL

LLOYD WRIGHT TOURAlthough I am physically drained from today’s events, I wished every day could be so interesting. Let me be the first to admit that I wasn’t totally excited when I looked at the syllabus back in January and saw that we would be spending an entire morning session on a Frank Lloyd Wright Studio Tour. I mean, I knew who he was because I like to watch the Antiques Road Show on PBS, but I really felt like it was just something I couldn’t possibly be interested in. Once again my preconceived ignorance about a subject put me in a position where I had to admit I was wrong. Now I must prepare to spend an inordinate amount of time trying to learn more about this topic in the future; who knew architecture could be so much fun?

This was truly an enjoyable experience and testament to how one person’s talent and confidence can inspire such an impact on society. What an American story! Could he really have only been 21 when he built that house? Think about it;

• A young genius comes up with a fresh and innovative approach to doing things
• He insists on doing it his way, even though others look at him oddly at first
• Others on a local level began to take notice, perhaps with envy
• He makes buckets of money doing the things he loves most
• Before long his influence begins to take over a city, in this case a very large city
• Eventually his ideas spread throughout the Midwest, then all of America
• 100 years later, teachers are still blogging about him on web pages
• Still others will watch rich people buy his things on the Antiques Road Show
• Is this a great country or what?

Next we got to traipse around Wright’s Oak Park neighborhood and see some of the houses he built. This was the most enjoyable part of the day. Even if the homes weren’t built by him, they were all beautiful; especially with the incredible trees surrounding them.

Next on the agenda was a visit to the monstrous Museum of Science and Industry, which was modeled after the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893. After watching a couple of presentations about the “White City” we were once again on a walking tour around the complex. I found it curious that throughout the presentations, nothing was mentioned about the hypocrisy of the exposition as explained to us last fall by Montana State professor, Robert Rydell, an expert on the White City. Rydell’s edition of an original pamphlet by Ida Wells and Frederick Douglass called, “The Reason Why The Colored American Is Not in The World’s Columbian Exposition,” reveals how fair promoters excluded the contributions of African Americans and would not let them into the gates of the “White City.” If nothing else, the fair denigrated and ridiculed any progress of African Americans and even allowed a Harper’s Weekly circular with racist caricatures to circulate inside the walls with the title, “Darkies Day at the Fair.” A picture of the caricature is in Rydell’s book and it is pretty disgusting. The exclusion of that information almost seemed like a deliberate cover up since, just like 1893, promoters did not want bad publicity.

June 11, 2009 / howardmestas

SPONTANEITY IN THE WINDY CITY

GOD BLESS AMERICA!Today it was back to the Chicago History Museum with our instructor Chip Brady taking us through the Document Based Questions project, or DBQ. I was familiar with this method of teaching from a previous workshop at CSUP, but each time it gets a little bit easier. Brady’s topic was about Prohibition; more specifically, “Why did America change its mind?” This was a pretty crafty question for a lesson topic, because the only way your students will be able to answer effectively is to research why we decided to change the Constitution for a ridiculous amendment anyway. I will use this method when assigning writing assignments, and have my students follow the outline that he gave to us. His method of creating group assignments was very effective and something I will definitely use in my classes.

The walking tour of the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, on the other hand, was a giant disappointment. Perhaps my expectations were too high since I was really pumped up about it the day before, plus I saw Sarah Marcus’ commentary on a Weather Channel documentary about the great fire. The only thing we saw of any interest was a small remnant of an original Chicago street in a back alley near the museum. I have to admit it was a real eye opener to see that just like everything else in the city at the time, even the streets were paved with wood! No wonder the fire was so devastating with that kind of tinder box. As we walked toward the lake, my heart really went out to those desperate people and animals running for their lives toward the water; especially since they would have nothing to return to when it was over.

When we reached the lake, I decided to act spontaneously, so I rented a bike and did my own personal tour of the Lake Michigan bike paths. What a blast! I was able to make the 16-mile loop and still have enough time on my rental to ride the streets into the heart of the city. Yes, that’s me in the top photo under the 25-foot- tall American Gothic Sculpture at Pioneer Court on North Michigan Avenue overlooking the Chicago River. I was able to see the boat tours underneath the bridge; I can’t wait until we do that on Thursday.

June 9, 2009 / howardmestas

CHICAGO HISTORY MUSEUM

CHICACO 1833

CHICACO 1833

Monday morning brought us to the Chicago History Museum, but not after our first adventure with the Chicago Subway. Although it was still a subway, it was much less creepier and much more efficient than the disaster we encountered in Philadelphia.

The morning started with a brilliant presentation by Sarah Marcus who managed to put the settlement and development of Chicago into a perspective that even a stupid caveman could easily understand. The way she was able to take us from a sandbar alongside a lake devoid of European contamination; to a modern American City (and everything in between) in less than two hours was nothing less than remarkable. Perhaps I was able to follow her so well because I have spent considerable time on the Encyclopedia of Chicago page in preparation for this trip, a website in which she was a considerable contributor. Still, it was like watching the city of Chicago unfold like a time lapse image put into fast forward motion. It was an enjoyable presentation; plus I learned to navigate the website in ways I was unfamiliar with.

Later, Heidi Moisan showed us many innovative lesson plans on how to teach with primary sources. Although her ideas focused mainly on Chicago’s labor conflicts, her ideas about how to involve group participation and understanding through reading and use of symbols could be adjusted to include any topic. Her presentation on http://www.greatchicagostories.org and how to teach using the website was incredible. I felt envious of Chicago school teachers and the valuable materials that are at their fingertips and in their neighborhoods. I wished there could be such a resource for the labor and immigrant history for Pueblo, Colorado. That history is there to be studied and celebrated; unfortunately that bottle of pride has been on ice and uncorked far too long. I believe that not only the students, but the Southern Colorado populace in general could benefit from such a resource.

After the museum, I joined a small group of warriors who managed to make it to the “Holy Shrine” of Wrigley Field. This was a pilgrimage that was long overdue since I have been a faithful (but hopeless) Cubs fan for as long as I can remember. When I was a kid I would wait by the roadside on many days for my brother Roger (who was also my legal guardian) to return from work as laborer at the Allen Coal Mine near Trinidad. The first question he would ask was, “Did the Cubs win today?” Ernie Banks was his hero, and Roger was mine. As the great Harry Caray would say; big brother, “This Bud’s For You.”

June 9, 2009 / howardmestas

A DAY BY THE LAKE

LAVENDER

Our first full day in Chicago was a memorable one, especially since we had the morning to ourselves; one to fill our souls with discovery and first impressions. This was that special moment we all waited for after months of and research about the city. Finally the significance of that planning had been realized.

I know that each of us had our own anticipation about what we most wanted to see on that first day; for me it was where I could see panoramas of Lake Michigan and the cityscape from the lakefront. I was soon rewarded when I took a bench seat beneath the mist of Buckingham Fountain. The Mother Ship had arrived.

After spending about two hours taking in the scenery it was off to the Art Institute of Chicago which turned out to be everything Jonathon said it would be. Too many times I felt like a real hillbilly when I turned around to see people staring at me because of the way I was gaping at some of the artwork. I know I violated the customary decorum of viewing such masterpieces, but when you’ve spent over 20 years working with textbooks, then seeing the original work that is in those pages, I think I should be forgiven. There were many pieces that captured long gazes, but I found myself returning to American Gothic, and to Paris Street, Rainy Day. The artist who I will find myself reading about in the future was Renoir. There was something about his works that really made a connection with my imagination, although I don’t know what it was. I guess that is why people go to special places to study art. I hope to discuss this with the art teacher at my school; perhaps there can be some collaboration between his classes and mine.

After leaving the Art Institute, it was off to Grant Park. This was another anticipated place for me, ever since Barack Obama gave his victory speech from that location on election night. I know I couldn’t have been there for the actual moment, but I have a fantastic imagination for such things. Along the way I walked through the fabulous Millennium Park Pavilion and traversed along the incredible BP Bridge; and incredible aluminum serpentine structure amidst a flowering botanical garden. The photo at the top of the page was taken from this walk which was an adventure I will long cherish and return to again in my lifetime if I should be so fortunate.

June 8, 2009 / howardmestas

NEW SALEM VILLAGE

NEW SALEM (2)

What a memorable day for learning about Lincoln’s early life and his road to greatness. Of all the legends in American History with simple men strapping up their own boot strings and rising to the top, his story is priceless. Seeing where he got his start in New Salem and then comparing it to his home in Springfield was an eye opening moment. Of course, the events in our day were mixed up with our schedule having us see his burial chamber in the middle of two formative periods prior to his presidency.

In the morning, we saw the old Illinois State House, but that turned out to be a bummer since nothing original was really in there. It was like visiting London Bridge which was disassembled and relocated in Lake Havasu City, Arizona. I’m sorry, but the effect just wasn’t as cool as it could have been. Ditto for the visit to his law partnership offices where nothing was original except for the flooring, at least that’s what they think.

But the day in Springfield wasn’t a total bust. Seeing the actual home where he and his family lived, and being able to place my hands on the same hand rail he touched was an awesome experience! Having the whole city block preserved with most of the original homes was also quite special. It was an eerie, transcendental experience in the home thinking about how happy and successful the family was there, while knowing just how much tragedy and turmoil they were destined to experience. I was thinking how I wished I could go back in time and tell him, “Hey Abe, don’t get into politics man.” But then again, our country might not have survived as we know it. While visiting his tomb a little later, I thought about all the choices he made and what must have been going through his mind when the south seceded after he was elected president. Talk about a crappy start to your new job. I have an even greater respect for Lincoln than I did before, and I am prouder than ever to be an American. I would give anything to be able go back and tell him before he died that there would one day be an African American president, and that he would announce his candidacy in Springfield.

The afternoon took us into New Salem, which was place where Lincoln would develop all the skills that would separate him from the life of a backwoodsman to a career in law and statesmanship. New Salem was a commercial village where frontiersmen would stop for goods and services on their way between bigger cities. As destiny would have it Lincoln’s raft became stuck on the check dam supporting the gristmill, which was the economic focus of the village. With time to kill, he wandered in for a visit and liked it so much he would end up spending the next six years there. This would end up being the turning point in his young adult life as he would become the person we are most familiar with. Many of the legendary stories we like to read about, like his famous wrestling match, and his first love happened in New Salem. His popularity and prominence in the community was so great that even with no military experience, he was voted captain of the militia force that headed off for the Black Hawk War. After his professional skill became polished, he made the move to Springfield, and the rest is history, or more precisely, America’s destiny.

June 8, 2009 / howardmestas

SPRINGFIELD

In Living Color

In Living Color

HOME OF THE RAILSPLITTER

Liking Lincoln

Today was a fun day and one filled with new insights and ideas. First off, I have never been to a presidential library before, so why not start off with the one dedicated to the best president in our history. Erin Bishop got things started with some interesting new lessons and ideas about the historiography of Lincoln, with many facts that I had never heard before. Just when you thought you knew it all! I had known before that Lincoln got his start as part of the Whig Party, but I didn’t know it had shaped his political philosophy so much. Bishop’s plans on how to use and evaluate primary and secondary sources was something I will find useful in making future presentations to my students. Her message was that we should evaluate not only the location and the moment when a primary source occurred, but also the circumstances in which it was created. For example, when we read the words, “I love you,” at the end of a letters the meanings are quite different when the message was to someone’s grandma instead of to their sweetheart.

Most intriguing were the exchange of letters between Lincoln and his step brother John D. Johnston, who by most accounts was quite the “lollygagger” compared to his more ambitious sibling. Basically, Johnston was trying to borrow eighty dollars from Lincoln, a request that was not only denied but accompanied with a scolding letter in return. When summarizing the predicament, Lincoln quipped, “Your thousand pretences for not getting along better, are all non-sense – they deceive no body but yourself. Go to work is the only cure for your case.” The letter is tersely and signed, A. Lincoln. This was a side of Lincoln that no one in the class had ever seen before.

The morning’s prep at the library was great conveyance to what was to follow at the Lincoln Museum in the afternoon. I have to say that the entire museum experience was somewhat of a religious pilgrimage to a history geek. I wished we would have had more time…I could have spent the entire day there. Most stunning to me was that it was the first time I had ever seen Lincoln and his family in something other than black and white! To see these very lifelike figures in “living color” was moment of revelation in my personal connection to Lincoln as a human being, and not just some mythological hero whose incredible story had been invented. The most touching moment for me was the bedroom scene where Mary and Abe were leaving the presidential ball to look after their ailing son Willie, who sadly as it would turn out, was on his death bed. The lifelike figurines and the sound of music coming from the dance floor of the White House were so realistic that I could feel the grandeur and the grief of the moment. There is so much I have already learned about the greatness of our sixteenth president, but I have only scratched the surface. Today was a giant step for me.

April 15, 2009 / howardmestas

SIN IN THE SECOND CITY

Stately CourtesanSinful Second City

A ‘Business doing Pleasure’ in Chicago

Karen Abbott’s Sin in the Second City is a lascivious chronicle of legalized prostitution in Chicago and nearly every other metropolitan area in the first decade of 20th Century America. If one were to turn the clock forward about 100 years you would be mindful of the recent scandals involving disgraced former New York Governor Eliot Spitzer and current Louisiana Senator David Vitter.
Abbott’s story centers around two sisters who by every measure challenged the traditional job description of the oldest profession by opening a respectable brothel in the otherwise contemptible Levee district of Chicago’s lower south side. Born Minna and Ada Lester in 1870’s Virginia, the sisters used their $35,000 inheritance to open up what would become a lucrative brothel in Omaha, Nebraska. Their fortunes would be more than doubled with “adventure” seekers making their way through the town’s Trans-Mississippi Exposition in 1898, however, as the show left the town, so did the high paying customers.
When it was time for a move, what greater place was there to relocate than in Chicago? It was a place with many wealthy men, most of whom had gained their fortunes through less than noble means. Abbott writes that, “The newspapers printed scoreboards that tabulated murders and muggings, as if such crimes were scheduled like baseball games and horse races.” The Tribune Newspaper wrote, “Chicago, has come to be known over the country as a bad town for men of good character and a good town for men of bad character.” Chicago would be the sisters’ new town and they would rattle the customary way of operating the flesh-for-sale industry by opening a “high-class brothel,” if such words could somehow be compatible. The sisters would exploit the closing signature of a beloved grandmother who would sign her letters as, “Everly Yours,” which would be transferred to their new adopted last name “Everleigh.” The Everleigh Club would become both a noun and an action verb to describe their new enterprise and its activities. All gratifications would commence in surroundings that spared no expenses such as gourmet foods, fine champagne, and music from a $15,000 gold leafed piano.
Certainly there could be no such business without stately “courtesans” to attract big spenders to the “sporting life,” which was curious vernacular for whoredom and its seekers. As sister Ada would explain, “To get in a girl must have a pretty face and figure, must be in perfect health, must look well in evening clothes. If she is addicted to drugs or to drink, we do not want her.” Of course there would be other requirements, such as developing the ability to carry on an intelligent conversation with a wealthy whoremonger envisioning the conquest of a high society woman. If a girl could make the cut to become a “butterfly,” she could expect to earn at least $100 per-week (with tips) which was remarkable considering a factory girl brought home about $6 weekly.
Of course there were many darker sides of the story regarding the social and economic status of women in the time period. As far as the alleged sporting life was concerned, not every girl in the industry measured up to butterfly status. As Abbott writes, most worked in “gambling parlors and opium dens and brothels where inmates dangled bare breasts from windows.” Some dives had names like, “Bucket of Blood” along a street called “Bed Bug Row.” Most houses had “whippers” who would flog prostitutes for not meeting an expected quota of tricks. Under the best conditions, girls were fortunate to pocket 15-dollars a week. Disease, addiction, and short life spans were all expectations for harlots along the Levee.
Above all was the fear of “white slavery,” where young girls could be coaxed by predatory agents with promises of marriage or employment, only to be “drugged, robbed of their virtue by professional rapists, sold to Levee madams, and dead within five years.” Hull House founder Jane Addams lamented, “Never before in civilization have such numbers of young girls been suddenly released from the protection of the home and permitted to walk unattended upon the city streets and to work under alien roofs.” Sadly, there was little opportunity for women who were widows, orphans, immigrants, or otherwise not connected to wealthy families.
One tragic account is of a little girl who learned the trade by washing her mother’s clients and learning to prepare opium before her fifth birthday. At seven she began her career by auctioning off her virginity. Recounting her descent into the family business, she said, “I ain’t ashamed of what I did…it seems just like anything else—like a kid whose father owns a grocery store. He helps him in the store. Well my mother didn’t sell groceries.”
If prostitution is the oldest profession, then professional zealotry in the cause of “purity” would come in second. Missions full of “saints” would slum their way in protests through the Levee District, while prosecutors and attorneys would obsess about legal maneuvers intended to bring an end to the “sin” profession. Eventually the crusaders would focus on political maneuvers leading to legislation called the “Mann Act,” which was to limit the extent of white slave trafficking. In later years, the whole “white slavery” issue would prove to have been more about hysteria than about young girls being forced into debauchery. As it turned out, most girls entered the vocation through their own choice, although most certainly as a last resort in times of desperation.
The Mann Act did have one extremely positive result in that it emboldened the Illinois State Legislature to investigate the link between low wages and prostitution. The effect was that eight minimum wage bills passed through Illinois, and would serve as a model for other states to follow.

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