On a recent trip to Türkiye we visited the largest known stone masonry workshop in the ancient Near East.
The Hittite and Neo-Hittite Quarry and Sculpture Workshop at Yesemek covers an area of about 25 acres. It is located about 70 miles west of Carchemish, Turkey and about 13 miles southeast of the Neo-Hittite site of Zincirli (ancient Samal).
Here the reddish/black basalt stone was quarried and then shaped into rough forms of lions, sphinxes, mountain gods, and other creatures. These were then shipped to places where they would be used to adorn temples, palaces, and other public structures. They were finished at the sites where they were on display.
The Entrance to the Archaeological Park of Yesemek.
Yesemek is the largest known stone masonry workshop in the ancient Near East. Over 300 partially finished blocks are scattered over the site that is today an archaeological park.
A Basalt Lion from Zincirli that probably was crafted at nearby Yesemek.
A huge lion statue that guarded the entrance of an eighth century palace at Zincirl (Palace III). It is made out of basalt. This lion may have been carved at the Sculptures’ Workshop at Yesemk—13 miles southeast of Zincirli. It is on display at the Museum of the Ancient Orient in Istanbul.
An Unfinished Lion in Basalt
Such finished statues guarded the entrances to palaces and temples. For a completed lion statue found in an eighth-century palace at Zincirli see Here. Or from Hazor in Israel Here
A Crouching Lion
A badly damaged unfinished Lion in basalt. Such finished statues guarded the entrances to palaces and temples.
An Unfinished Human in Basalt
This looks to this observer like an unfinished relief of a human—in basalt. Notice the legs, the feet, and the knee-length garment. I am not able to discern what the upper portion of the piece is.
An Unfinished Piece
I am not certain what this basalt piece was intended to be. The “snout” suggests an animal, but the large head covering suggests a human or a god.
For additional images and commentary on Yesemek, See Here.
Mary and I invite you to join our 18-day “study tour” to Turkey and Greece: following in the Footsteps of the Apostles: Türkiye and Greece from April 28 to May 15, 2025. We have handcrafted our itinerary and will have excellent guides.
After visiting the world class Archaeology Museum in Istanbul and the Hagia Sophia, we will fly to Antalya (Biblical Attalia) from where we will begin our tour of biblical sites. Biblical sites in Türkiye include Attalia, Perga, Colossae, Hierapolis, Laodicea, Miletus, Ephesus, Smyrna (Izmir), Sardis, Philadelphia, Thyatira, Pergamum, and Assos. In Türkiye we will also include visits to Didyma, Magnesia, and Troy. We will transfer by bus into Greece and there we will visit biblical sites such as Neapolis, Philippi, Thessalonica, Berea, Athens (Acropolis, Mars Hill, Market Place), Corinth, and Cenchrea—as well as Delphi, one of the hanging monasteries of Meteora and the golden tomb of Philip II (the father of Alexander the Great).
Exploring the Inner Harbor at Troas — Troas is mentioned in the New Testament five times. It was here, on Paul’s second missionary journey that he received a “call” to proceed to Europe — Acts 16:8–11
All totaled, we will visit places where 15 of the 27 New Testament books were written to and/or from including all of the seven Churches addressed in the Book of Revelation.
As we travel together, we will relate what we see to the New Testament and the Early Christian Church. Thus, this is a hands-on experience as we study the New Testament and its Greco-Roman background! Along the way, I will be giving mini-lectures, drawing from my studies and from the 35+ trips that we have led to Turkey and Greece.
On the Roman Road that Paul traveled on from Alexandria Troas to Assos — Acts 20:13–14
You will be amazed at what you will be learning along the way and April and early May are perfect times to travel—not too hot, not too cool, and the wildflowers are still in bloom in some places!
We hope you will join us! Contact us soon if you are interested (go2.CarlRasm@gmail.com).
In an earlier post, I shared some photos that I took at the very important site of Carchemish. Today, it is located partially in Turkey and partially in Syria. A few days before our visit to the site we visited the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara. That museum has a whole section devoted to artifacts found at Carchemish. It focuses particularly on the inscribed orthostats. These are upright slabs set in the ground that form part of a structure, found there. The memory of the scenes on the orthostats not only brought the site of Carchemish “to life,” but they also enhanced my vision of the people of the Neo-Hittite Period (ca c. 1000-717 B.C.). Here are a few selected images that were excavated in some of the “elite structures.”
A limestone orthostat from Carchemish depicting a Banquet Scene.
A bearded figure sits to the left of the cross-legged table in the center of the image. He sits on a cross-legged chair with a back. He holds a goblet in his right hand, which is extended upward. A servant with a fan stands behind him. On the right side of the table is a servant with a cup in his hand. On the far right is a musician playing an instrument with a fringe on its handle. The orthostat is about 3.5 feet high and dates to the Neo-Hittite Period (ca. 900-717 BC).
A basalt orthostat depicting a human figure—probably King Katuwas, the first great builder at Carchemish in the Neo-Hittite Period.
The right hand of King Katuwas rests on a staff. He seems to hold a bird in his raised left hand. He has a beard. He is dressed in a long garment with fringe and a broad belt. He carries a sword in a sheath.
On the left, behind him is a Luwian (the language of the Neo-Hittites) hieroglyphic Inscription: “I, Katuwas, Lord of Kargamis … Tarunza [the storm god] of Kargamis under ATANAWA … will give him one-ninth or will build the orthostats of Katuwas … He will give one ninth to Karhuzas and Kubaba [two deities] and will have it constructed. But he … his … annual income to the gods and to Tarhunza ….” (from a sign in the Museum) The orthostat is about 3.5 feet high and dates to the Neo-Hittite Period (ca. 900-717 BC).
A basalt orthostat from the “Hearld’s Wall” at Carchemish.
Depicted on the right is a bearded human figure wearing a short skirt. He has a dagger in his right hand and he is stabbing the lion in the rear end. On the left, a bearded god figure appears. He has a horned headdress. He grasps the lion’s hind leg and holds an ax over his head with his right hand. (from a sign in the Museum). I am not certain if the lion is already dead, or if it is alive. If it is dead, they are in the process of removing the skin. The orthostat is about 3.5 feet high and dates to the Neo-Hittite Period (ca. 900-717 BC).
A basalt orthostat depicting some of the royal family of King Araras.
View of the final two orthostats in a series of four orthostats from Carchemish. The interpretations of the reliefs and the short inscription are from a sign in the museum.
The basalt orthostat on the left has eight figures—children of the king. In the upper register, three figures carry knuckle bones (like dice) in their hands. A naked, small figure walks behind them. The figure uses the support of a stick, and a bird is on the top of the stick. In the lower register, two seated figures on the left are playing a game of knucklebones on the stool between them. Two standing figures on the right play with tops. They hold pieces of wood with strings attached to spin the tops. The inscriptions above the heads of the figures are the names of the children of the king.
The basalt orthostat on the right portrays the queen carrying her youngest son in one arm. She holds the rope of an animal that follows behind her. The muscles of the colt are displayed in a schematic manner.
The Luwian inscription reads: and this (is) Tuwarsais, the desired(?) (one) of the ruler. the prince proclaimed for preeminence.” The orthostats date to the Neo-Hittite Period (ca. 900-717 BC).
A portion of the Carchemish section of the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.
The above “Hittite” finds from Carchemish are from the time of the Neo-Hittites! These are to be distinguished from those Hittites associated with the Hittite Empire (1360-1180 B.C.) which had its capital at Hattusha and Yazilikaya
Bryant Wood has two helpful and accessible articles on this topic.
On a recent trip to Turkey, we had a chance to visit an “out of the way” Roman Thermal Spa that I had not seen before. For several years, I had hoped that I would be able to get there, and since it was on the way as we traveled from Hattusha (Hittite Capital) to Cappadocia we included it in our “Tutku Tour to Eastern Anatolia.” We were not disappointed.
The Roman Spa is located in the small Turkish city of Sarıkaya (population 19,000), that is known for its hot springs and associated bathhouses.
In the city is a large Roman Thermal Bath (Sarıkaya Roma Hamamı) that may be the ancient Aquae Saravenae). The bath was built in the second century AD and was used in the Byzantine, Selcuk, and Ottoman periods. The excavation of the site began in 2010 and continues to this day The water that the pool uses springs from the ground at 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
View looking north at the excavated area of the Roman Thermal Spa at Sarıkaya.
On the left (west) side of the picture, the main thermal pool of the Roman Hot Bath in the Turkish city of Sarıkaya is visible. In the center of the image is the two-story display wall of the pool. On the right (east) side of the image is the major area of excavation. There, water bubbles out of the ground into two collecting pools at a temperature of 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
View looking east at the main pool of the Roman Hot Bath in the Turkish city of Sarıkaya.
The pool measures 76 x 42 feet and is 4.5 feet deep. Note the two-story display wall on the far (east) side of the pool. Probably statues (of Emperors, City Elite, and/or Deities?) were placed in them. The pool was built in the second century AD.
View looking south at the main thermal pool of the Roman Hot Bath in the Turkish city of Sarıkaya
Note all of the modern buildings that surround the excavation area!
View looking south at the eastern portion of the large thermal pool that lies to the east of the central display wall of the Roman Thermal Spa at Sarıkaya.
View looking south at the large Elliptical Pool at the Roman Thermal Spa at Sarıkaya.
There is hot water in the bottom of the pool! Note the apses at each end of the pool, the stairs on the left (east) that lead down into the pool, and the places to sit along the edges of the pool. Some of the original paving stones of the floor are visible. This pool is very near where the hot water (115 degrees Fahrenheit) bubbles out of the ground. According to ChatGPT the sign on the right says “Going into the pool is forbidden.”
On a recent trip to Türkiye our group had a chance to visit a site that I had always wanted to visit.
Carchemish is a large antiquity site on the west bank of the Euphrates River, about 60 miles northeast of Aleppo. It is situated at an important crossing point, and trade routes from the east (Assyria and Babylonia) passed through it on their way to the Levant and/or Turkey (Hittite country).
A view looking looking southeast from Carchemish at the Euphrates River. It flows from left to the center of the image and continues its course through Syria and Iraq to the Persian Gulf.
At this point, there is a natural ford for crossing the river. Today, the blue water is the western-most of two branches of the river. The other is on the far (east) side of the marshy “island” but is not visible.
The railroad bridge that crosses the river was built by the Germans and Turks for the Berlin to Baghdad Railroad around the time of WWI. The bridge itself is in Turkey. The hills beyond the bridge are in Syria.
The huge mound of Carchemish (220 acres) lies on the Turkish/Syrian border with 135 acres in Turkey and 85 acres in Syria (Jerablus). It consists of an Outer Town, an Inner Town, and a Citadel. To this casual observer, it reminds me of Hazor in Israel, which is also about 200 acres in size, with a citadel and a large lower town.
View to Carchemish from the north, looking south. To the right of center (west), the citadel, with a Turkish Jandarma post, is visible. The lower town (not visible) is to the right of that.
Carchemish is mentioned numerous times in ancient Hittite, Egyptian, Assyrian, Babylonian, etc. texts as well as in the Bible (Isaiah 10:9; Jeremiah 46:2-3; 2 Chronicles 35:20). It was the scene of the famous battle between the Egyptian Pharaoh Neco II who was defeated by the Neo-Babylonian King Nebuchadnezzar II in 605 BC—see Jeremiah 46 and the Babylonian Chronicle.
It was inhabited from the third millennium BC to the 10th century AD. Many have excavated there since the late nineteenth century. It is famous for the many reliefs, inscriptions, tablets, and small finds discovered there.
View to Carchemish from the northwest.
On the left side of the image, the citadel, with a Turkish Jandarma post, is visible. Spread across the center horizontal plane of the picture is part of the large rampart that encircles the “Inner Town.” The Citadel and the Inner Town were the “heart” of ancient Carchemish.
A view looking west from inside the mound of Carchemish towards the Western Rampart and the West Gate. The picture was taken from inside the “Inner Town” near the “Lower Palace.” The Middle Bronze Age ramparts enclose an area of at least 86 acres.
The Lower Palace/Temple Area
This area has been and continues to be an area of intense excavation and restoration. Two temples and a palatial compound were found in the area. This urban scheme was first established around 1330 BC and lasted until the end of the Neo-Hittite Period in 717 BC. At that time, the Assyrians suppressed temple usage, but the palace remained in use.
Beginning in the tenth century the Neo Hittite rulers of Carchemish embellished the temples, public spaces, and the palace with all kinds of sculpted materials. The public nature of the area continued into the Roman Period.
View looking south at the Temple of the Storm God (Tarhunna/Tarhunza)
It appears that the main entrance of the temple was from the south, with an additional doorway on the right (northwest) side of the temple. On the north, there appears to be a large rectangular platform. In the background is the covering of the ongoing excavations of the palace complex.
Although the temple was originally built during the Hittite Empire Period (1360–1180 B.C.), it was reconstructed in the tenth century by Katuwa, the king of Carchemish. That temple continued in use until the Assyrian Conquest in 717 B.C.This area has been and continues to be, an area of intense excavation and restoration.
A view of the Visitors Center at Carchemish. Because this area is a military zone, the only way to tour Carchemish is with a group guided by one of the guards from here. There are many helpful explanatory signs on the site. Because the citadel is a Jamdarma Post, it was not possible to visit it and photographs of it were prohibited. The roads into Carchemish are not very well marked. Portions of them are under construction and are being upgraded. It seems to me, that the Turks are hopeful that many more tourists will come and visit Carchemish.
Many of the finds from the excavations at Carchemish are displayed in the Central Room of the Museum of Anatolian Civilization in Ankara. The museum was the first stop on our tour, and by seeing the artifacts first, the importance of the site was enhanced in the minds of our travelers.
In the next blog post, I will share some of the artifacts from Carchemish.
To-date, most of the “Hittite” finds from Carchemish are from the time of the Neo-Hittites! These are to be distinguished from those Hittites associated with the Hittite Empire which had its capital at Hattusha and Yazilikaya
Bryant Wood has two helpful and accessible articles on this topic.
This year, 2024, I had the chance to visit Antakya Turkey (NT Antioch on the Orontes) twice: once in April and again in October.
Downtown Antakya with the Orontes River—photo from one of our visits prior to 2023. Today, all of the structures on the left side of the image are rubble due to the February 6, 2023 earthquake.
On February 6, 2023, an earthquake had a devastating impact on Hatay (Antakya, Antioch), Turkey, causing widespread destruction and loss of life. With a magnitude of 7.8, the quake flattened thousands of buildings, including homes, schools, hospitals, and historical landmarks.
In April 2024 , we arrived in Antakya after dark. Because of the lack of streetlights, signs, and functioning GoogleMaps, the Waxwing Hotel sent out a man on a motor scooter to guide us to the hotel through rubble-lined streets.
The Waxwing Hotel — April 2024
The Waxwing Hotel was the only functioning hotel when we visited Antakya in April 2024 (in October was stayed in the newly opened “Museum Hotel”—more in a future post). The reason the Waxwing survived is that it had been “retrofitted” about three months prior to the earthquake in February 2023 and thus was not reduced to rubble. Notice that the buildings around it had collapsed and much of the debris had been trucked off.
The view from our room in the Waxwing Hotel in April 2024.
Unfortunately, the earthquake caused over 60,000 deaths and many injuries, with many more displaced from their homes.
A collection of buildings near our hotel were damaged/destroyed by the Earthquake that hit Hatay on 6 February 2023.A view of a neighborhood near our hotel that was damaged/destroyed in the Earthquake that hit Hatay on 6 February 2023.
The empty lot in the foreground was previously filled with houses and businesses that were destroyed. The rubble was trucked off and bulldozers created a level surface.
In the upper half of the image are structures that have not yet been demolished. Left of the center of the image are some engineers from Japan who were visiting the city to gather information.
Christian property.
The sign above the iron gate, with crosses, indicates that this was/is Christian Property—and/or a Church. The dominant religious community in Antakya (Hatay) is Muslim, but other religious communities have thrived there as well—in peaceful coexistence!
After the earthquake, Hatay’s health services were overwhelmed, and the city faces a long and difficult recovery. The economic impact has been enormous, with the destruction of businesses and livelihoods adding to the challenges of rebuilding. Beyond the physical devastation, the psychological toll on survivors has been profound, as they cope with loss, trauma, and uncertainty about the future. The road to recovery will require significant resources, time, and support from both national and international communities.
The graffiti on the left(in red) image reads (in Turkish) “we are devastated/heartbroken, February 6 2023. The one on the right reads “Don’t Lose Hope, February 28.” Click on images to enlarge.
A “Container” Community/Neighborhood. Image courtesy of Brian Small.
One of the 10’s of “Container Communities” where survivors of the earthquake live with their families. These structures are not exactly “shipping containers,” but are purpose-built to house the displaced people. The devastation in Hatay/Antakya is so extensive that it seems that many of these people will be living there for several years.
A “Tent/Yurt” neighborhood for earthquake survivors.
A community of displaced earthquake survivors who are living in “Yurts.” A Yurt is a circular tent of felt or skins on a collapsible framework, used by nomads in Mongolia, Siberia, and Turkey. I am not certain of who donated these Yurts.
Jason Borges has a short article reflecting on his visit to Antakya a few months after the earthquake, “The Future of Antakya?” And Mark Wilson has one Here in Christianity Today.
Led by Dr. Carl Rasmussen – October 4–14, 2024. You are invited to join this “once in a lifetime” trip. Study the New and Old Testaments in one of the most important lands of the Bible!
On this 11-day trip to Türkiye we will Explore Biblical Anatolia and Southeastern Türkiye, from Ankara to Haran.
We invite you to join us as we Explore Biblical Anatolia and Southeastern Turkey—from the Ankara area (the homeland of the Hittites) to Haran (the homeland of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob). Along the way, we will visit the UNESCO “World Heritage Sites” of Hattusha (capital of the Hittites), Goreme National Park (Cappadocia where early Christianity flourished), and Gobekli Tepe (unique neolithic remains). Included will be stops at Tarsus (home of Saul/Paul), Antioch (Acts 11), and Seleucia Pieria (Saul, Barnabas, and John Mark set sail from here to begin the First Journey). The museums that we will visit exhibit some of the most outstanding mosaics from the Roman world.
Tarsus — Street from the time of the Apostle Paul
I will be giving mini-lectures along the way both on the bus and on the sites, drawing from my studies and from the 30+ trips that we have led to Turkey and the Eastern Mediterranean. We will relate what we see to the Old and New Testaments and the Early Christian Church. Thus, this is not a mere tour, but a hands-on experience as we study the Bible and its cultural and geographical setting! We will enjoy excellent accommodations and meals. We will be visiting some of our favorite sites in Turkey. Please email me to receive a descriptive brochure! I can be contacted at 2FootStepsTours+BL@gmail.com
Antioch on the Orontes — from which Paul began all of his journies
You will be amazed at what you will be learning along the way and the weather in October is good—not too hot and not too cold.
Beehive Houses at Haran — Homeland of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob
Tour Dates and Cost: October 4-14, 2024. Cost: $3,990 per person in Double Occupancy; add $460 Single Room supplement; Includes airfare from New York to Istanbul and return from Istanbul to New York—and the internal flights from Istanbul to Ankara and from Urfa to Istanbul. We are now accepting Registrations and Deposits for this trip. If you wish to reserve a space, contact me.
Although travel to Israel is not possible right now, we are offering two comprehensive Bible Study Tours — one to Turkey followed by one to Greece in the spring of 2024. You are invited to join us on one or both of these “once in a lifetime” trips. As many of you already know, there is nothing like studying the Bible in the lands of the Bible!
On our Bible Study Tour in Turkey (April 25–May 9, 2024), we will begin in Istanbul, visiting the Hagia Sophia and the world-class Archaeology Museum. From Istanbul, we will fly to Antioch-on-the-Orontes River, the third-largest city in Paul’s day, where believers were first called “Christians” and Paul began all three missionary journeys. We will visit Seleucia, the port where the first journey set sail (Acts 13:4), Tarsus (the home of Paul), Derbe, Lystra, Iconium, and Pisidian Antioch—places not usually visited by tours but all of which are of biblical importance. After stopping for two nights in the Mediterranian city of Antalya we will travel to Colossae, and then begin our exploration of all of the Seven Churches of Revelation—with many stops (email me for the complete itinerary).
On our Bible Study Tour of Greece (May 8–16, 2024), we will begin in Thessaloniki in northern Greece. We will begin touring with a day trip to Philippi, where the “Good News” was first preached in Europe. As we motor towards Athens we will be stopping along the way at Berea, Vergina, Meteora, and Delphi—with overnights near Meteora and Delphi. In Athens, we will visit the Acropolis, the Areopagus (“Mars Hill”), and the new Acropolis Museum. We will take a day trip to Corinth and Cenchrea. Email Dr. Rasmussen for an Itinerary and Details (2Foot.Steps.Tours+TGB@gmail.com).
On December 6 the feast of Saint Nicholas is celebrated and so I thought I would bring back this oldie but goodie.
On the outskirts of the Turkish town of Demre is a church that is associated with Saint Nicholas—Father Christmas, a.k.a. in northern Europe as Santa Claus!
St. Nicholas was born in nearby Patara about A.D. 300 and served as the bishop of Myra later in his life. A number of miracles are attributed to this revered bishop, including his providing a dowry to the three daughters of a local baker. Thus he is associated with “gift giving!” He was also the patron saint of sailors and was prayed to for protection at sea—note that Myra is very near the Mediterranean Sea. He died about A.D. 345.
It is said that he was buried in this church, but that his relics (bones) were taken to Bari, Italy, about A.D. 1088, although other claims are made that the Venetians took them.
View looking down at the altar area from the top of the synthronon Click on Image to Enlarge and/or Download
Every 6 December, the feast day of St. Nicholas, Orthodox, Catholic, and Protestant Christians celebrate the Divine Liturgy here.
To view (or download) more images of the Church of Saint NicholasClick Here.
On our recent trip to Turkey, we were headed to visit the very impressive Temple of Apollo at “Didyma” (modern Didim).
Temple of Apollo at Didyma (modern Didim).
As we approached the area, the road was blocked by police. Our driver and guide explained where we were going and the police let us proceed to the very crowded parking lot. Much to our surprise we “happened” on to a rather unique local festival—the “Didim VegFest.” This is a festival that celebrates, yes, vegetables and vegetarian and vegan lifestyles! There were many booths where local, mainly homemade, products were sold, and there was a festive parade with music.
We had fun joining in the festivities as we made our way to our “goal”—the Temple of Apollo. I thought I would share a few photos of this unique experience. How many vegetable “costumes” can you identify??