It took a while to decide how to write this. Gardening is an enormous topic because there are so many ways to garden, depending on your climate, soil, goals, amount of space available, and other factors. So I went with a stream of consciousness about how I garden, and we can get into other ways in the comments.
I live in the center of the US Midwest, where growing conditions are pretty much ideal. Gardening here is more about keeping things from growing (weeding) than getting things to grow, but there are limits on what can be grown well in any area. That starts by determining your hardiness zone and average frost dates, which you can find online. My zone is 5b and the average final and first frost dates are April 15 and October 15. Plants divide into two basic groups: hardy plants which can tolerate freezing temperatures, and non-hardy plants which can’t. So the growing season here for non-hardy plants like tomatoes and lima beans is generally six months or less, since that April 15 is an average. To extend the season any further, you have to start non-hardy plants inside. Hardy plants like cabbages and broccoli can be started outside early and harvested late, so you might have eight months or more for them, allowing early and late crops.
My garden is in three plots totaling about 3000 square feet. The division is due to where the open spots of land between the buildings are, but it works out well because it lets me rotate different crops through them, not planting the same thing in the same plot two years in a row, which helps prevent disease and pests. I’ve done raised beds when I lived in town, but here there’s no reason to, and it wouldn’t be practical on this scale anyway.
Most of the soil here is good by default, but it never hurts to improve it, especially when you’re harvesting nutrients out of it every year. I fertilize in the form of chicken manure and bedding whenever I clean out the henhouse, tilling it in somewhere that’s clear at the time. I’m not very organized about it, but try to make sure I get every spot covered each year or two. We get enough rain that farmers don’t need to irrigate here, but some vegetables are more water-hungry or have shallow roots, so if there’s a dry spell in the summer, I may run a garden hose and sprinkler or soaker hose out to soak everything once or twice.
For tilling, I have a 50-year-old Troy-Bilt Horse that will probably outlive me. It’s a heavy beast that drives itself, so I just have to follow it and turn it on the ends. I like the *idea* of avoiding tillage, and I do mulch things when I can. But tilling is how my family has always done it, so I always come back to that, at least when it’s time to plant in the spring. I also have a push plow for cultivating between rows when there isn’t room for the tiller, and for getting some exercise.
I buy most of my seeds from a seed catalog (Pinetree the last few years). The seed catalogs come around Christmas, so you can spend January browsing through them and making big plans for spring. I’ll circle everything I might want to grow, and then trim the list down a lot when I place the actual order. Seed catalogs generally have a lot more varieties than you can find sold at the local farm store or nursery, but if you have a local place that sells bulk seed, that can be a lot cheaper than the catalog. Then there are the non-seeds that I buy locally, like seed potatoes (whole potatoes that you cut into pieces and plant), onion sets (little onions that were grown the previous year to about the size of a dime, which you plant and grow to full size), and plants for things like eggplant that I only want a few of. All in all, I probably spend $200-250 on seed and plants every year.
That brings me to the money question: gardening doesn’t pay, if you’re growing for yourself and you count your labor. I’d be ahead if I put the same amount of time into a part-time job and bought all my vegetables at the store. But if you value the time spent outside, the exercise, the ability to grow interesting varieties, and the control over how your food is treated, it can pay many times over. My garden provides most of my vegetables and some fruits for the year, and really could cover it all if I were more organized about it. That’s pretty valuable to me. It’s possible to make money selling your produce if you have the right location, but that’s a separate skill and takes more time. You can also try to make a little to help offset your seed bill by selling extra produce to friends and neighbors, without trying to make it really profitable.
Seeds are expensive, so one way to save money is to save seeds. Some are easy and everyone who grows them should save his own, like beans. Let the beans dry on the vine, pick the pods and shell them out, stick them in the freezer for a couple weeks to kill any bugs, and store in an airtight container somewhere cool and dark. One catch with saving seeds, though, is that you can’t save hybrid seed. Hybrids won’t breed true, but will revert to a parent stock, which probably won’t be what you want. So I stick pretty strictly to “heirloom” seeds, which are older, non-hybrid varieties. If you plant seed saved from Cherokee Purple tomatoes, you get Cherokee Purple tomatoes. In most cases, there are great heirloom varieties that are as good as the hybrids, but in some cases you have to make a choice. In sweet corn, for instance, the super-sweet varieties we’re all used to now are hybrids. Heirloom varieties are sweeter than field corn, but not as sweet as the hybrids, so you have to choose between super-sweetness and being able to save seed.
(By the way, hybrid and GMO are two different things. Hybrids are like cross-breeds: one variety pollinating another to produce a cross of the two. They’ve been around since Gregor Mendel’s experiments 200 years ago. But you’re at the mercy of nature when crossing plants (like animals) — you get what you get. Sometimes you get lucky and get more positive traits from each parent than negatives, giving you a hybrid that’s superior to the parents, but you might get the worst of both. It took decades of trial and error to find the best hybrid combinations, and people are still finding new ones. GMOs are an attempt to cut nature out of the process and speed it up by splicing genes from one variety into another — possibly even from a different species, which hybridization cannot do. For instance, a Brazil nut gene was inserted into soybeans, before they discovered that people with nut allergies started reacting to the soybeans. Most gardening seed catalogs do not sell GMOs, because amateur gardeners very much don’t want them, but they do sell hybrids to varying degrees. Some gardeners (like me) prefer heirloom varieties, but most happily use hybrids for the traits they offer.)
Some vegetables are hard to save seeds from, especially the biennials like cabbage and turnips, which don’t produce seeds until their second year. That means keeping them alive through the winter, either in a greenhouse or careful storage that keeps them dormant but alive, then returning them to the garden in the spring so they can go to seed. I’ve done a little of that, and should do more, but it’s a lot more trouble than saving seed from annuals.
My gardening every year, other than planning and buying seeds, starts with putting out a cold frame. A cold frame is any structure with a clear top that warms the soil beneath it. Mine is two old translucent shower doors. I prop one end on a straw bale so they face the southern sky, and put a couple more bales on either side to insulate the space underneath. After that warms the soil for a few days, I work the soil up with a hoe, and plant some early, hardy vegetables under it. This year it has radishes, lettuce, carrots, and beets. As it turned out, we had an unusually hard freeze in mid-March, which killed some of it despite the protection. But I still have some of each in there, and the lettuce is nearly big enough to start using as of mid-April.
After that, it’s a matter of waiting for two things: for the soil to thaw and be dry enough to till, and for the asparagus to start coming up, since it’s usually my first harvest unless some early radishes beat it. Asparagus is a great gardening choice if you like it. I planted 15 crowns 15 years ago (asparagus comes as roots called “crowns”), and that made a row that’s produced around 20 pounds each year. There’s no comparison between the thin, stemmy stuff at the grocery store and what you get from a home plot. Some of mine makes stalks the diameter of my thumb. The other perennial I highly recommend is strawberries. It takes some work to keep them weeded, but once you have an established strawberry bed, strawberries just happen every year, and it’s hard to beat fresh strawberries.
I was able to fit some early tilling in between rains this year, so I got a lot of stuff planted early. Too early, in one case. I planted a bunch of leftover seed that was 2-3 years old on March 1. Seed that old tends to be iffy on germination, so I figured I’d risk it and use them up, and a 14-degree cold snap one night killed most of what might have been coming up. But there’s a nice patch of lettuce that survived, so I’ll till up the rest of the space, and plant the new seeds that I got this year. After that cold snap, I got the potatoes and onions planted, and they’re coming up now. About April 1 I planted sweet corn, cabbages, broccoli, cauliflower, beets, Swiss chard, carrots, turnips, basically all the stuff that can survive a normal frost (the sweet corn can’t, but I saved a ton of sweet corn seed last year, so I could afford to chance it early, and it looks like I got away with it). A lot of that is up now in mid-April, so I got a bit of a head start. I’ll wait another couple weeks to plant the warm-weather crops like tomatoes, beans, melons, and cucumbers, and there will be later “staggered” plantings of some things to spread them out so they aren’t all ready at the same time.
That hard frost brings up the topic of failure. Gardening never goes perfectly; something fails every year. A whole packet of seeds doesn’t germinate, a mole goes down a sweet corn row and eats all the seed, deer or rabbits eat a patch of lettuce, chickens peck holes in pumpkins to get at the seeds… I’ve had all those things happen and more. You just have to roll with it, learn something from it, and enjoy the stuff that doesn’t go wrong. Unless there’s a major disaster, the successful crops should outnumber the failures, and if you don’t have any beets to put in storage this year because deer ate them, you just eat more of something else. The variety keeps it interesting.
Once I get the warm-weather crops planted, the next few months will be all about weeding, harvesting, and preserving (a whole topic on its own). As I mentioned at the start, weeds are always the biggest problem, and before long, I’ll be out there for an hour or so before work every day, weeding a row or two. By July, I’m fighting to stay ahead of them, and mulching where I can with straw or cut grass to keep them down. Other than being ugly, weeds sap moisture and nutrition that your vegetables need, and can choke them out if they get bad enough. Last year I made the foolish decision to plant a few morning glories (a climbing flower with a big purple bloom) on my bean fence, and now I can see hundreds of them just starting to sprout up from the seeds that fell. I’ll need to get them hoed before they get bigger.
Speaking of flowers, I do grow a few flowers, basically to add some color to the garden. I grow a tall, big-headed sunflower variety that’s good for seeds, for me or the chickens to eat. Zinnias are a really easy flower to grow (and save seed from), and they have long stems that make them easy for kids to cut a few for a vase. Marigolds are supposed to help keep away some insect pests, so I try to grow a few of those here and there, although I don’t know how true that is.
Speaking of pests, I don’t try to be perfectly organic, but I try not to spray more than I need to. The two real problem pests here are squash bugs and cabbage worms. Cabbage worms can be controlled with BT, a natural bacteria that kills cabbage worms without harming good insects (or people), but you have to stay on top of them, because it only works on the larval stage. If you forget to spray often enough or rain washes it off too soon and the worms get ahead of you, you have to resort to something harsher. For squash bugs, there’s no organic solution except picking the bugs off, which some very naive people actually recommend. I just break out the Sevin and spray them as soon as I start to see the bugs. Otherwise it doesn’t take them long to kill the plant, and for the long-season varieties like winter squash and pumpkins, you’ll never get a ripe squash before the squash bugs do them in.
Other than those two, I don’t have much trouble with pests. Tomato worms (aka tomato hornworms) can be a problem if you don’t watch for them, but they’re easy to pick off and step on. They’re big green worms the same color as the tomato plant so they hide well, but they eat the leaves so you can spot them by the damage they do. When you see several leaves missing, there will be a tomato worm nearby. By the way, if you see a tomato worm with a bunch of white spike-looking things sticking out from its back, those are the eggs of a wasp that lives on tomato worms, killing them. So don’t kill that one; let it live long enough to feed the eggs and hatch more beneficial wasps. Tomato plants can take a lot of damage; I’ve had plants with half their leaves missing still produce a lot of tomatoes.
I’d recommend that everyone try gardening, on whatever scale is reasonable for you. In a small backyard, a 4’x8′ raised bed can look nice and give you space for several small crops. If that’s not an option, you can plant a few things in pots on a patio, or even a few herbs in window boxes. On any scale, it gives you a chance to “touch grass,” as the kids say. If you’re completely new to gardening, it’s probably best to start small and see how much you can handle.
You can also come at it from the other direction: how much do you want to produce, and how much space will that take? But it’s hard for most people to understand how much food they actually use when they’re buying it week by week and not looking at it all at once. For instance, figure your family needs one quart of vegetables per day. That’s 180 quarts over the six months that vegetables aren’t fresh in the garden, that will need to be grown and then preserved in some way, in addition to what you harvest in-season and eat fresh, to be fully self-sufficient on vegetables. That’s a pretty tall order, but you don’t have to go that far with it to get a lot out of it. Just having fresh vegetables in-season is great too.
It’s also a good project for kids, that gets them outside and teaches something about the life cycle, success and failure, patience and perseverance, and an appreciation for where food comes from. For instance, potatoes. Get five pounds of seed potatoes (or what you have space for), and have the kids help cut them into pieces with 2-3 eyes on each piece, explaining how the eyes are where they grow from. Then they get to dig holes in a row and plant the potato pieces. Two to three weeks later, a little plant will pop out of the ground. After it gets a few inches tall, they get to use a hoe to “hill” them, burying the plant in more dirt, while cleaning up any weeds around them. The potatoes will emerge again, and they can hill them again. Hilling them prevents the growing potatoes from poking through the surface and getting “sunburned,” which causes the bitter and mildly toxic green spots you might see on store potatoes sometimes. After hilling them 2-3 times, let them grow and keep the weeds pulled around them. After a few months the potato plants will start to die. As the plants die, they put the energy into growing the potatoes which are underground. Dig up the first one that gets to half-dead, and you’ll get some small “new potatoes” of the sort that people pay extra for, a little promise of what’s coming. When the plants are completely dead, dig them all up, and you’ll have amazing potatoes unlike anything you can buy, with tissue-thin skins that will scrub right off, but you don’t need to because they’re so thin you won’t notice them. Pick out any that you cut with the shovel or that have any soft spots. Use those first, and spread the rest out in a cardboard box or crate in the basement or other cool place. Send the kids down to get potatoes for meals until they’re all gone.
I think that’s everything I can think of, so I’m gonna head out and do some weeding.








