[NB: I started this post over 10 days ago, but sometimes my hopes and dreams of what AI can aren’t as clean and tidy asI’d like. So, this is now just the first part of an ongoing monitor repair saga.]
I already wrote about my recent updates at the bavacade swapping monitors with G07 chassis between Condor and Make Trax. Turns out another game I’ve been working on, Robotron, also has a G07 monitor that gives out a terrible hiss. I’m not sure if it’s the vertical frequency pot or something else, but I started thinking it might make sense to swap that one out with the Make Trax chassis and monitor, so I did just that.

Monitor and G07 chassis from Make Trax swapped into Robotron frame (notice how the metal frame sits flat against the ground)
In the spirit of nothing can ever be easy, I was hoping to just take the monitor and chassis from Make Trax* and put it directly into Robotron. I figured it would be an easy win given both monitor mountings were designed for horizontal monitors. I was wrong. The mountings where both for horizontal monitor alright, but Make Trax chassis was now in the Condor monitor frame and the bottom doesn’t sit flat, which meant it did not fasten cleanly into the Robotron cabinet. FML.

Disassembled monitor frame for Condor after learning it would not work in Robotron
So, I definitely got my full of swapping monitors to different brackets, and when finally getting the new Robotron monitor and chassis installed and ready to go the image was significantly tilted. I figured the monitor mounting was lopsided, so I adjusted that but it was still tilted. Hmmm, after some more jiggering and pulling out a level, I realized the call was coming from inside the monitor. WTF! The actual image was titled, which means I must have moved the yoke while swapping monitors … not good. I tried re-adjusting the three yoke wedges hoping to get lucky, no dice. Now I have a beautiful Robotron image that is badly tilted. Sad arcade panda.

Offsetting the tilt with a piece of wood to straighten out the Robotron image
The solution is to loosen up the yoke and try shifting it to get everything aligned, but to do that effectively I need some courage and at least one more person. I had neither, so I decided to offset the tilted image with a “shim” underneath the monitor mount. I put shim in scare quotes because it’s closer to a mini block of wood.

More than a shim, but less than a 2 x 4
I imagine this is a pretty common hack given rotating the yoke can create all kinds of issues if done wrong, and I just don’t need the headache right now—I’m manic enough. What’s more, any trace of the tilted image was gone, and it looked near on 100%.
At some point I’ll reckon with the yoke on this tube, but not today, Satan! I was a bit concerned about any unforeseen issue that could arise from having that piece of wood wedged between the monitor platform and the mounting bracket. Turns out there’s no real concern, at least according to ChatGPT. I started a quick chat to make sure I was not overlooking any safety hazard, and it promptly reassured me—something it’s good at.

3 G07 “Pots” (or resistance adjusters) that control elements of the image on the screen
All that finally gets us into the meat of this post. Long story short, the chassis and monitor I pulled out of Robotron because of the loud hiss/screech was destined for the Condor†machine in my basement. While the chassis and monitor worked fine in Robotron, it was afflicted with that awful kiss/screech I mentioned earlier. So after installing the monitor in Condor I tried adjusting the vertical hold pot (pictured above) with a screwdriver and the pot broke. So I pull it out and replaced two of the four pots, the vertical hold and vertical linearity pots. I was sloppy and assumed both were 200 Ohm pots, but turns out vertical hold needs a 10K Ohm pot—not good. Below are the values for the various pots on a G07 CBO:
Vertical Hold = 10K
Vertical Lin. = 200 ohm
Vertical Height = 200 ohm
Horizontal Freq. = 5K
Given my sloppy work, after re-installing the chassis the image was even worse, what’s more adjusting at least one of the pots I installed was useless. I then tried adjusting the Vertical Height pot with a metal screwdriver (STUPID—do not try this at home!) and I shorted the chassis. This was frustrating. I temporarily bricked a perfectly good chassis. On top of the monitor going black the resistor R903 was burning red hot and the F901 pigtail fuse wire melted, so something was rotten in Denmark.
I took the chassis out and at this point I would usually dig in on the KLOV forum, but I decided to take an alternative path, I summoned the machine. I described the glowing resistor to ChatGPT and the melted fuse wire and the monitor shorting out and it immediately started providing me troubleshooting tips.

F901 fuse (partially hidden) and R903 resistor. Image care of pinrepair.com
I have to say this was a bit of a brave new world to have the machine immediately map out potential causes as well as detailing for me how to troubleshoot. It immediately identified the B+ filter cap (the big grey capacitor in the image above) and the Horizontal Output Transistor (HOT) as two things for investigation given they both deal with the the high voltage supply. It kept pushing me towards the HOT given the monitor was dead, there was no neck glow, and no high voltage made it a likely candidate. This was pretty cool, I must admit, and on top of all that, it took me through the specifics of testing the HOT with a multimeter, which is huge struggle for an amateur tech like me.

Horizontal Output Transistor assumed to be shorted
For example, with the HOT the legs you are supposed to test are not necessarily labelled, so it can walk you through that:

ChatGPT identifying the detail of the HOT on a G07 chassis
So five minutes after shorting a G07 chassis I’m already tracking down potential fixes. Previously I would be wading through the KLOV forums prepared for the inevitable “pot shots” [pun intended] about how stupid I was for shorting it in the first place. To be fair, there areas many awesome people on that forum as well, but it would be impossible for them to take me through the basics in context like ChatGPT can. This kind of painstaking tutelage would be too much to expect of anyone, so the impulse to help would quickly become a source of annoyance or, even worse, resentment—all of which is understandable.
On the other hand, the machine provides that kind of direct instruction without concern. I still have to assume everything I’m being told might be wrong (and some of it is), but I assume that about everything on the web. I know this because I write a blog.

ChatGPT taking me through testing the HOT to see if it is good or not
After that it took me through testing the HOT, as well as ultimately warning me I might need to desolder one leg of the transmitter (the emitter) to ensure I get a reliable reading. This is valuable information. Turns out the HOT was shorted and I just happened to have another G07 chassis in the arcade that I could pull a working one from as well as replace the R903 resistor given when it overheats like that it can quickly become unreliable. The last bits of work I did before testing it again are the following:
- swapped out the rest of the pots that control the image
- replaced the F901 fuse that melted
- replaced the horizontal width coil given the existing was looking pretty beat up
With all that done I re-connected the chassis and fired up the game and I got an image again.

This white gauze with vertical lines on the screen was what I first got when resurrecting the monitor from the short
I still had to adjust the size and positioning given it now has all new pots, as well as reflow solder joints on the neck board around the RGB pots and bright and contrast pots. In the end the shorted chassis was brought back to life thanks to some very focused advice from the machine.
What’s more, the chats around the chassis issues helped deepen my understanding of how certain elements of this monitor works. But regardless, I now have all the cabinets save Scramble working again, and that’s simply a replacement piece for a joystick that I haven’t gotten around to ordering. Things are looking good in the AI-assisted bavacade repair world …
[10 days later]
While AI did help be bring a shorted chassis back to life—which is awesome—the screeching and hissing was even worse than when it was in Robotron. Refusing to leave well enough alone (although the screeching was not well enough) and having new found courage with my AI assistant, I continued digging.
Describing the symptoms to ChatGPT, it recommended I take a plastic tool or wooden spoon (not a metal screwdriver you idiot!) and push down on the flyback or the driver transformer (T503) to see if the high-pitched noise changes. Bingo, that was it, when I pushed down on T503 the noise muted. I had a smoking gun. So not only do I have a clean looking monitor now, but I’m about to solve the noise issue.

Driver Transformer (T503)
I was in my kitchen having a coffee with Antonella prior to performing this final procedure bragging that I might just be turning a corner with monitor work thanks to ChatGPT. I’m finally making real progress …
Famous last words.
I changed out T503 with one I had on my parts chassis and also decided to add a real yoke connector given the yellow, red, brown, and blue yokes were loose, and that’s not ideal. If a yoke comes loose it will lead to horizontal or vertical collapse of the image.

Yoke connector on a G07 CBO
My real problem here was I decided to two two things at once. Swap out the driver Transformer and add a new yoke connector. Anyway, I did these two things and I got a small green dot in the center of the screen. Which means there has been both a horizontal and vertical collapse, fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu. How do you like your blue-eyed AI now, Mr. bava?
I figured out that the vertical collapse was being caused by a bad connection in the yoke connectors on the vertical wires, so I fixed that, but the horizontal collapse is ongoing. I have swapped the original drive transformer back in after crazy gluing the casing, but still nothing. So, I had to throw in the towel, at least for a little bit, and get back to my life. They arcade projects can become all consuming, but I am hoping after some time away and a little reflection I can get this thing up and running again. Hope springs eternal in the human breast 🙂

Total Horizontal Collapse of the Heart
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*If you are keeping score at home, this is the second time I swapped the Make Trax monitor and chassis into a new metal frame mounting—he metal frame mounting it was in before this second swap was the Condor mounting.
†Ironically this was, in fact, original home of that chassis, it went from Condor to Make Trax to Robotron and now back to Condor in just a couple of years.