Captivating Capri

Capri has charmed visitors for centuries, from Augustus, who originally developed the Italian isle as his personal paradise, and Tiberius, his successor, to artist John Singer Sargent, who fell into the island’s spell in the late 1800s, and “Golden Era” celebrities, who made it their Mediterranean playground. While there’s no shortage of history on Capri, you’ll also find it rich with culinary traditions, where lemons are as prominent as the views of the sparkling sea.

From the moment the ferry docked at Marina Grande and I was whisked up the hillside in an open-air taxi with Brian Hart Hoffman, my expectations of Capri were exceeded, and la dolce vita (the sweet life) of the region was evident. And I’m not just referencing the many lemon desserts we enjoyed and the intoxicating smell of jasmine and citrus blossoms in the air.

One of the things that makes Capri so unique, besides its spectacular coastline that plunges into the Gulf of Naples and the Tyrrhenian Sea, is that much of the island is a pedestrian-only zone, with a maze of charming alleyways connecting hotels, shops, restaurants, and residential areas. After arriving at the top of the hill from the marina, taxis are required to stop before reaching the piazzetta, the main square and heart of the island, where everyone, including visitors and locals, stops for a cappuccino in the morning and a spritz cocktail in the late afternoon. From the piazzetta, pedestrians can twist and turn up and down cobblestone paths all over the island, following small ceramic directional signs in the stone walls as they make their way to hotels or other destinations. Tangles of bougainvillea decorate doorways, sundresses blow in the breeze outside boutiques, and views of the coastline are abundant.

On Capri, the beat changes throughout the day. Mornings are slow and quiet before ferries carrying day-trippers arrive, and the piazza and streets become crowded with those vying to experience the island in just a few hours. In the late afternoon when the ferries leave, calm returns to the isle. This is the perfect time to shop, stroll, and sit for an aperitivo. In the evening, the island is returned to those who stay and live there. Evenings on Capri are magical, when the sunlight softens and the pace slows.

Our home away from home on Capri was La Minerva. Brothers Marco and Antonino personally greet and welcome guests into what was once their family’s home. Their grandparents Luigi and Laura opened two rooms of their villa to travelers in the early 20th century, and today, the family carries on their hospitality legacy with excellence. La Minerva has earned a prestigious fifth star and has won an award for being the best small hotel in all of Italy. After a welcome that feels like we’re a part of the Esposito family, we realize we’re not standing in a traditional hotel lobby but a chicly appointed living room, ideal for enjoying a refreshing lemonade and slice of homemade torta while our luggage is whisked away. 

Here, each of the 19 guest rooms is uniquely special. Crisp white spaces meet the colorful tile floor accents the island is known for, and sea views beg us to sit and gaze into the azure abyss. La Minerva’s serene pool area is set amongst a garden and offers a perfect reprieve during the day, where we take lunch, and the fabulous hotel team stops by to offer up refreshing treats like sorbetto throughout the afternoon. In the evenings, the lobby becomes a stage for cocktail magician Saverio Franco. With each creation he serves, the presentation is playful and surprising, from fire and smoke to giant bubbles that drop and burst before a first sip.

La Minerva’s intimate terrace restaurant offers not only sweeping Mediterranean vistas but also dinner as well as breakfast. For breakfast, it’s completely acceptable to eat cake, like Torta Caprese, while planning the day’s activities. For dessert, after a lovely evening meal, their Torta Limone in the shape of a lemon is so realistic, you’ll think you’re cutting into the real thing until you taste the delicate sponge cake and bright flavor of the island’s citrus. I can’t think of a sweeter way to enjoy Capri than with a stay at La Minerva, where the magic of the island enchants you long after departure.