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Before I get started, I want to thank Ana for offering me the opportunity to guest blog. I’ve been following 1001 Scribbles for some time now and really enjoy the eclecticism and insight that’s routinely available here.
The focus of “Thursday Tips” will be photography. The tips offered will largely be for enthusiasts who consider themselves beginners who want to take their photography to “the next level,” but hopefully some of this will be applicable to more advanced photographers as well. A word of warning—I’m primarily a landscape photographer, so my perspective and examples will draw heavily from that genre. However, most of what I relate can be applied to many—if not most—other types of photography. To learn a bit more about me and see the kinds of things I shoot, please visit my blog and/or my Web site.
With that out of the way, let’s get to today’s tip. If you want to take your photography up a notch, take your camera off the program/auto setting! If you really want to go crazy—jump into the deep end of the pool, metaphorically speaking—flip on over to full-blown manual. (I realize that not every camera out there allows the user to change the shooting mode; every SLR—at least every one I’m aware of—does, as do most (if not all) mirrorless cameras and some advanced point-and-shoots. If you don’t have a camera that allows you to do take full control, but are interested in moving ahead with photography, I’d urge you to look into getting one.)

Please don’t misunderstand what I’m saying—it’s not that a good photograph can’t be taken in auto mode, nor am I stating that there are no situations for which the program setting is appropriate.
Why then, you may ask, is it important to shoot in a mode other than full-blown automatic? Photography, as an art form, is a creative endeavor and a large part of the creative process is making decisions about how the camera functions. In program mode, the camera is making these decisions for you. The camera is making exposure choices; it is setting the ISO, the shutter speed and the aperture for you. It is also—as a result of setting the aperture—establishing depth of field (the establishment of the range of acceptable focus). By allowing the camera to make these decisions you’re essentially surrendering a large part of the creative locus to a system of computer algorithms.
Exposure is about rendering light. It is—arguably—the single most important aspect of photography. How a scene is exposed will play a huge role in conveying the emotion of that scene. It’s impossible to overemphasize the degree to which this is how you—as an artist—express yourself via the photographic medium. Surrender that to the camera? Not on your life! How does the camera know how you want to handle exposure? It doesn’t. Now, this doesn’t necessarily mean that an image shot on the program setting won’t be satisfactorily exposed. But if the lighting is tricky, or if the dynamic range of the camera’s digital sensor (or film, if you’re still shooting film) is exceeded, allowing the camera to make exposure decisions is a dangerous thing. The camera doesn’t know what you want to do—take that decision back into your own hands!
The same goes for depth of field. The camera doesn’t know how much or how little of the scene you want in focus. It has to guess, and, in truth, it has no idea. Again, what’s in focus and what isn’t is a substantial part of the creative side of photography. Remember—you are the artist. You should be the one making all of the creative decisions.
For a variety of reasons, it would have been extremely difficult to produce any of the photographs accompanying this entry with the camera on the auto/program setting. In any case, it wouldn’t have been worth the trouble to do so. All of them were accomplished in full manual mode (using a spot meter exposure method and manual focus). The better you understand the technical aspects of photography, the more easily you’ll be able to choose the best method to achieve your desired results.
One of the great ironies of the Age of Digital Photography is that it has never been easier to learn the technical fundamentals of the discipline, yet a smaller percentage of people engaged in photography appear to have even a modest grasp of the technical basics than ever before. Back in the era when film was ubiquitous, concepts such as exposure and depth of field were comparatively difficult to absorb, primarily because it took so long to receive feedback following a shoot. (The film had to be shot and then developed; it was days, if not weeks, before the results could be seen and compared.) Today, feedback is virtually instantaneous. The exposure and depth of field differences resulting from varied settings can be seen immediately and the lessons internalized in a matter of a few hours. I’ve often said that, if you give me a novice photographer with an interest and willingness to learn I’ll have them fully understanding photography’s technical underpinnings in a single afternoon. Novices with the willingness to learn can probably teach themselves nearly everything they need to know in a weekend.
Start the process of taking full creative control of your photography. The first step to learning the fundamentals is to move away from the program setting. You won’t regret it.



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Kerry — this is a great post. Very informative! I just starting taking the plunge into full Manual mode in the last few weeks. As a result, I have learned so much more than I’ve gathered in the 2 years I’ve been shooting and the 15 months since I took my first photography class.
I look forward to your future “Thursday Tips”.
Like all your photos on your own blog, the photos you’ve posted here are gorgeous. I especially like the last one.
Thanks, Anne. I’m certain that you won’t regret the move to full manual mode. Before long, you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner.
Kerry and Ana…..I know I’m late here! Thanks to both of you for offering tips! I know I can use them. Kerry…your photos are spectacular as usual. And Ana….I always love to see your photos too! In fact, I love your new header! Thanks for sharing the blog on alternate Thursdays!
Thanks very much, Judy.
Always so kind, Judy. Thank you =)
These are beautiful!! Love them all.
Thank you very much!
Cool tips! Thanks. And thanks for guest blogging here!
Happy to do it. Thanks for stopping by.
Well said and well illustrated Kerry. If I may be so bold, I’d suggest there are times when you should turn auto-focus off, especially when shooting macros.
John
Hi John, thanks. I never use autofocus when shooting landscapes or macro (with the possible exception, in the latter case, if I’m shooting flying insects).
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Great post Kerry…well done indeed!
Thanks, David!
WOW! Im jealous of this talent. The photos are simply beautiful!
Thanks very much!
I am absolutely delighted after reading this, I am a great fan of photos and thank you so much for sharing those learnings… 🙂
My pleasure; thanks for reading.
Great post!! I have just started my journey with the camera and I am sure your posts will be of great help!! I need to understand the technicalities in fairly layman terms 🙂 Will be on the watch out for posts from u guys!!
Great! Thanks for stopping by; we’ll posts with tips every other Thursday.
Great post! I have just started the journey with my camera and I am looking forward to your posts!!
This is a great post and I think you have hit the nail right on the head with using Manual. Compacts are great for auto, but with a DSLR I am starting to understand the balance required for Aperture and Shutter Speed. It’s taking some time (I got my camera 2 months ago) though the best piece of advice I was given by another blogger was this – keep it on Manual! And you have just reinforced that I:) Alot of my shots come out over exposed with little depth though it is getting better over time. Yours are great shots and the lavender shot is my favourite. I wanted to ask if you could do a guest post on filters and spot metering? If not, would you be able to explain it a little to me, or direct me to a site? Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks very much for the kind remarks.
Regarding the request for a guest post, I’ve sent you an e-mail.
Spot metering for landscape? Thats new to me! Whats the reason behind that? 99% of my landscape shots are in Evaluative mode as I’m trying to capture the full scene on my sensor. The 1% is usually an interesting light falling on a specific object and I know thats were I want to focus… for example I can see you using spot metering on the flower shot… but even the waterfall?
I hope you know that I’m inquiring to learn… I’m not challenging or disputing 🙂
No offense taken, believe me. 🙂
Spot metering…I learned exposure during the film era, with the intention of applying it to Velvia (50 ISO), a notoriously unforgiving, low dynamic range transparency emulsion. If you botched the exposure with Velvia by more than 1/3 of a stop, you were cooked. With slide film it was critically important to ensure that you didn’t blow the highlights. I’ve essentially translated this approach to digital capture (another medium where you really need to expose for the highlights; this is the opposite of exposure technique for negative film, BTW, where exposing for the shadows was the way to go).
Evaluative metering will probably give you what you want in even (or at least relatively even light); where it’s likely to mess with your mind is when you’re pushing the limits of (or exceeding) your camera’s dynamic range. At that point, a choice has to be made and the camera’s evaluative metering may or may not make the one you’d make yourself. Using a spot metering approach, when done correctly, allows all of a scene’s tones to fall into place. Now, this does mean that you have to be able to correctly evaluate a specific spot’s tone relative to a mid-tone. This was always the most difficult part of spot metering technique. It takes experience, but after awhile you’ll find that you can judge these tonal differences within 1/3 of a stop virtually all of the time. If you can do that, all of the tones elsewhere in the scene naturally fall into place (i.e. judge one tone correctly and you’ve judged ALL of the tones correctly).
All of that being said, I’m really a relativist when it comes to photography. If you’re consistently getting the results you want using whatever method you’re applying, there’s really no reason to change. Lots of people I know have always used evaluative metering with exposure compensation. It seems to work for them, so more power to ’em. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. 🙂
If you want to bat this around further, please don’t hesitate to inquire.
Hello, thank you for the post like on my post about Edinburgh. Keep coming back as I know I’ll keep checking out your posts. I’m loving the photos you take.
I love the concept and will be following your blog as well as Ana’s now, but fear that I don’t have the patience to use the camera manually. Will give it a try though. Cheers!
You should try it sometime. You’ll see there’s a whole new Photography world behind it 😉
What Ana said!
Here’s a suggestion…set aside some time to experiment with your camera on manual; look upon it as a learning experience to develop an understanding of how the components of exposure (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) work together to provide the exposure you’re looking for in a given scene. Experiment with different aperture settings to see how depth of field changes. I positively guarantee that truly understanding photography’s technicals will make you a better, more efficient and more creative photographer.
Lovely pictures! Thanks for stopping by my blog and l iking my post “My husband’s DVD collection. I plan to follow your blog because I’d love some photo tips! I also want to see Midnight in Paris. Take care!
Thanks for visiting. Glad you enjoyed the blog specially Kerry’s guest post 😉
I love how you showed the wind in lavender photo – I haven’t seen that before. Lovely.
Thanks.
That photo is precisely the sort of thing that I was alluding to in the above piece. I played around with a variety of shutter speeds until I obtained what I was looking for. It was kind of a Goldilocks thing–not too short, not too long…it needed to be just right, and it was difficult to know exactly what the exposure should be in advance to obtain the desired result. On Program, it never would have happened. At a bare minimum, this called for a Shutter Priority setting…but, as I always do, I shot on full-blown manual. I wanted both a certain shutter speed AND a specific depth of field setting, which meant that I needed to control both the shutter speed and the aperture. I dropped the ISO down to a base setting (200 on the camera I was using) and further maintained a specific exposure by using filters–a polarizing filter and a neutral density filter. As I said, some experimentation was needed, but it didn’t take me long to get where I wanted to go.
I enjoyed this posting. Thank you both! I recently purchased a Canon 600D and find myself utilizing the advanced settings more than the auto/basic settings even though the basic settings take a great picture, they are not as creative as I would like. I am still experimenting with what I have learned thus far and enjoying the journey. I also have posting my photos to get feedback and tips. I must say, after reading today’s post, I completely agree with you on taking control of your photography. I look forward to reading more from both of you! Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment. Remember–the camera is merely a tool; creativity lies within you. Changing the Program setting to Manual won’t necessarily unlock your creativity–it’s merely a tool that will ALLOW you to BE more creative, if that’s what you’re inspired to do.
All that said, as we move along in this series there will surely be installments that will attempt to inspire you to unlock the creativity that lies within.
lovely photos!
Thank you!
Great tips and beautiful pictures. They look almost like oil paintings.
Thanks!