Let me start off by saying I have owned Prusa clone printers since 2017 and back then these which were mostly prebuilt, still had a lot of nuances to figure out. I was still learning some tips and tricks with it more than a year later. Fastforward to today and I just setup and ran the 'benchy' test file which is easy to download from their site. It printed about 95% quality with a few minor spots but nothing to worry about. This printer does not ship with filament samples - FYI. What's interesting first off is that this printer and company make both a phone app (android user here) and a PC slicer program that can be downloaded. The PC program is more extensive then the app apart from slicing, and you can go in and make changes to the settings which I later did. What's also interesting here is that their app or slicer program (PC), breaks out speed variations on a layer basis. Cura never did that. I think it only gives a flat rate speed and pushes the machine to try and achieve it. With this new printer, the software determines what parts of the printed model it can print at what speed along with user settings dictating a thing like a slow first layer. After printing some smaller models from Tinkercad and slicing them, I realized that they use color maps which are displayed according to layer changes, and that they automatically reduce print speeds. So, the outerwall for ex. might print no problem at the max speed of 500 mm/s, but once sliced, the inner parts might slow way down to below 100 mm/s - something to be mindful of when considering the spec sheet on this printer. I'm printing with PLA Pro filament from 3D Fuel (American brand), and with the original settings it shipped with of a .25mm layer height, and all of my personal models came out very smooth. I uploaded a picture of one where I also did a filament change on a leftover spool. It printed a single final layer in silver. Another thing to note is on my prusa clone it had a habit of creating a ridge line on circular prints both inside and outside on the first layer. I used the setting regarding 'elephant's foot' set to a negative 3mm to compensate but that also subtracts the first layer inward. On this new machine I didn't have any issue like this at all. I'm really impressed with this printer, even out of the box. It really is plug N' play. What's more the instruction sheet is huge and illustrates the few minor steps needed to assemble it. Once that's done it tells you to turn on the printer and to download their app. Once installed it basically takes over intuitively figuring out the next step you need and guiding you through everything including the final request to autocalibrate the bed. This was really nice as a feature, as I'm used to finessing my old printer with a piece of paper and it rarely prints anywhere but the middle with good adhesion over blue tape. This printer comes with the now common flex magnetic board that hooks at the rear of the printer and snaps magnetically into place. Now, one of the questions I had while researching this printer was whether it performed a bed leveling prior to each print and the answer is 'yes', but there's a difference here. When first initializing the printer, it will literally go through a 6 plus minute bed leveling process. You can leave the printer powered on all the time, it has an internal shutdown so the fans turn off. However, the bed leveling prior to each print only went through a 2.5 minute procedure to check leveling. The timer resets the estimate after this step is completed. While the PC slicer is pretty intuitive especially for someone who's done 3D printing before and is familiar with the advance settings in Cura slicer, there were a couple of instances where I had to guess where to click on things. There are two different screens, the slicer tab, and the machine tab. Under the second tab is a printer button but... it won't recognize the sliced model and looks for an existing sliced Gcode file, which doesn't make much sense since the idea is to use the slicer software from ankermake. Under the slicer tab there are two icons lower left, one is the main model display 'unsliced' and the other reveals the layer settings and has a vertical and horizontal slider tool to view it. At the upper mid left of the screen is a box that may not be expanded and it has drop downs like "Speed". If you click this it will break down the layers by speed and color mapping. The time it takes to print is hidden under another selection in the drop down, otherwise you have to click the print button to see the time displayed for that model. On the right middle of the page there is a simple drop down menu for basic presets slow, med. and fast. I chose the fast setting and later realized I could click on the advance settings 'global' and it would open up all of the speed settings etc. Then there's the pencil icon which allows editing, and a save icon to create a newly modified profile. You don't have to do any of this to get a really nice and fast print. I just wanted to push the machine to get my original times as low as possible. Now due to the type of model, the infill which they default to a measely 10% will depend on the type of model it is, for how long it will take to print. I did a test square block about 20mm high and fairly large in size. This type of model quoted some 2 hours or more because of the tedious infill for every layer. However for a shaped object with a hole through the middle, and only some infill on each layer, Cura slicer quoted me 6.5 hours with 50% infill and a layer of .15mm which is really fine for a print. Now on this printer with infill set much lower at 25%, and chosing a 'line' fill option pattern, with a less fine setting of .25mm it still came out really nice and smooth. The ankermake slicer quoted just under 2 hours for the same model and interestingly the mesh infill is just as good at the lower percentage. As to the printer itself sometimes the head needed to travel about three inches to the next wall and it moved at 500mm/s which was like a blink of an eye. Sometimes during the printing process it also moved this rapidly depending on what part of the model it was producing. This printer is crazy fast and very accurate. I ran several test prints and none had any issue with bed adhesion. I will add that the texture of the build plate does show up on the bottom of the print however. Another really nice thing I noticed was when it was laying down lines in the first layers of the print before proceding with the infill. There wasn't a single lift or bubble anywhere it was incredibly smooth. Even on a good day my old printer just can't give that kind of result. If you're on the fence about getting a 3D printer watch for monthly sales on the Amazon tracker tool. So far the company is discounting to $239 for a one week period starting around the first week of each month. If you're a current owner of a 3D printer, and haven't upgraded in a while I don't believe anyone would go wrong with buying this. The fit and finish from delivery to the initial setup and print was basically flawless. I will add here that I don't recall any app prompts or install instructions telling me about loading or unloading filament however. So, I'll mention it here. There's a long plastic tube as noted in the pictures that sits near the spool of filament. There's a small colored clip that gets removed, per the instructions, to insert this tube and then to reapply the clip. After that just begin feeding the filament straight from the role, rotating towards the tube and feed it down until it stops. NOTE; you need to warm up the printer to around 200 degrees C prior to depressing the loading lever on the the direct extruder otherwise the filament will see like its stopped but still has another half inch of travel where the internal gears pick it up. On the app on the phone for example, there's an unusual selection for 'retracting' and 'extruding', the latter meaning to load the filament. Hitting the button raises the hotend temperature and turns it to a red 'stop' button. Just leave it there and don't hit it again otherwise it would stop the process. This isn't intuitive because its like the app is telling you something went wrong with the process and to stop. The same thing occurs with unloading the filament. The only difference is that once it starts doing its thing, it won't seem to move and may even appear to pull the filament down a little, and then suddenly it spits it out at the spool, a few inches and you have to manually pull it back through the long tube and all the way out. As to the upper model and its much higher price point, I don't personally see a need for it. The local screen and camera idea are mostly fluff and you can truly work this 5C model with apps and the PC slicer over Wifi / bluetooth. I also didn't need to send over the ankermake cloud or anything. Once in the slicer, it will load the available printers it detects nearby in another room if necessary, and you select the 5C as presented and it goes straight to printing. No complaints at all. If the long term reliability holds up, this will prove to be one very nice printer, especially considering the one's I'm letting collect dust on.