The Gateway
Phuentsholing or Pling(local term) is the border town and border crossing was rather easy .Since I had booked through a registered Bhutanese tour agent I was told that I could have a guide through out my stay.I don’t mind having a guide for a limited period but having someone for 6 days reeling off statistics and cliched stories was not appealing and I decided not to have one. My attention span is quite limited and I would rather see,savor and digest.
Checked into Druk Hotel,situated next to the Immigration Office .I did not want to waste any time and took off to look around.
Druk Hotel
It is difficult to imagine that just an ornate gate separates the two countries.The contrast is overwhelming.One side is too congested,noisy,polluted,chaotic and the other side is clean,orderly and colorful with people in their traditional attire.The architecture is also striking.Phuentsholing is considered as the financial,industrial and trading centre and most of the goods come from India.Buddhism is a way of life here and prayer wheels,prayer flags and stupas are seen everywhere.
No traffic signals
And Bhutanese revere their kings.It is a democratic,constitutional monarchy .Pictures of the royal couple and the fourth King are seen in all the government buildings and shops.They are popularly known as K4 and K5.
Sale of tobacco is banned in Bhutan and if you are caught smoking in public places you will be fined. No such ban on alcohol and I could see more bars than restaurants in most of the places. It was interesting to know that they have K5- a premium whiskey to commemorate the coronation of the fifth King and Silver Jubilee whiskey to honor the fourth King.
Bus Terminal
I saw a big temple near the hotel and decided to go there the next day before checking out.
Crossing Borders-From India to the Land of Flying Tigresses and Thunder Dragons
I must confess that like most people I did not know much about Bhutan except that it has a monarchy, GNH(Gross National Happiness)as the index of its progress, Prime Minister Narendra Modi chose it as his first foreign destination and one of my favourite actors Tony Leung had got married there. Also, the Tiger Nest which is the first image that comes to mind when I think of this land. I don’t like to read up a lot before going to a place as it minimises the joy of exploring and this time I did pay for my casual attitude.
My UK friend who was to come with me had to cancel her ticket at the last minute because we did not realise that a person having OCI (overseas citizen of India) card would have to pay 250$ per day. Confusing? Bhutan strictly regulates its tourism. People having Indian, Maldivian or Bangladeshi passports do not require a visa to enter the country and the rest would have to get a visa and book through a registered tour operator. We had booked through a Bhutanese travel agency. Then came another shocker. The immigration office at the border town would not be open on Saturdays and Sundays and I was reaching on a Friday evening. They also restrict the entry for solo travellers(no gender bias here ) There was no way to change the dates or get someone to go with me. Being an easy- going unstructured traveller I thought I should just take a chance.
The flight from New Delhi took 2 hours and I reached Bagdogra at 12 30 and rushed into the waiting taxi. The distance from Bagdogra to the border town Phuentsholing is 284 km and it would take 4-5 hours; immigration office is open from 9 to 4 pm and I had to keep in my mind that Bhutan time is 30 minutes ahead of India Standard Time. So it was a race against time. My driver took up the challenge and zipped through the well- maintained roads. It was a beautiful drive and I let the sights of green paddy fields, tea estates, army units, Teesta river and many more nameless rivers to steady my nerves.
Tea estate
Teesta River
It was 4 30pm when we crossed the imposing Bhutan gate and I could not imagine that border crossing would be like this. Jaigaon is the border town on the Indian side and Phuentshoing its Bhutan counterpart. I have made it this far and now the time has come for the final formalities. If the office is closed I would have to wait till Monday and I just did not want to lose two precious days at the border.
Bhutan Gate-Jaigaon side(India)
Bhutan Gate-Phuentsholing(Bhutan)
The immigration office is just about 50 metres from the gate and Singey-the travel agent was waiting there. I rushed into the building with my passport,2 photographs and the duly filled permit form and met a gracious lady official. Documents were examined, fingerprints taken, and I was granted the entry permit. I could not thank her enough. The permit is valid for 7 days and only up to Thimpu the capital city.
Immigration Office
At last I was officially in the Druk Yul and thus began my dragon tales.
Tbilisi-pastoral days
I was getting saturated with churches , UNESCO heritage sites after 6 days in Tbilisi and wanted something different.That was when Teolina suggested a visit to her village and we did not have to think twice.So we set out on a 5 hour long trip through winding roads with snow clad hills and valleys to Norio village in Abasaha district ..This village is sparsely populated and farming is their main occupation.Maize is the main crop.
We reached by evening and were warmly welcomed by he parents and grandmother.They have a 2 storey house and a fairly large plot .Teolina’s mother is Erma and I was surprised to see her watching a Hindi serial dubbed in their language.It seems Hindi serials are quite popular out there.Tina is her 94 yr old grandmother and she is a charming sprightly lady.I did not see her sitting down even for a moment.It was obvious that Teolina dotes on her parents and granny.She visits them once or twice a month.Erma is fond of old hindi movies and she sang two lines of that all time popular song ”Mera jhootha hei japani”.It was getting very cold and Teo’s father took me to stay near the quaint old bukhari.It was very cosy and I did not want to leave that spot.
MAMA ERMA & GRANNY TINA
WITH KHACHAPURI
Georgians are known for their hospitality and warmth and we felt a part of this wonderful family in no time.
We were treated to a sumptuous dinner which was like a mini Supra ((traditional georgian feast) for me.It had georgian specialities like Gomi-maize porridge which is to be eaten with cheese,Khachapuri-cheese filled bread and corn fritters.All were home made and delicious.
I got up by 6 and saw that Granny Tina was already up and having her tea. .I went down with her and she showed me around.It was like a scene from my village.There is a sprawling plot with a cowshed ,chicken coop and corn fields .She let the hens out ,took hay for the cows, went over to her neighbour to get a bottle of honey for us and made sure that we had breakfast.She has stayed in the same village for most of her life and is content and happy.Teo told me that though she looks frail she has a robust constitution.It must be the genes,active village life and a healthy diet.She is also deeply religious.
I saw a persimmon tree for the first time and seeing my excitement granny made me taste some fresh persimmon and they were delicious.She also packed some to take back home.She also wanted me to carry some pumpkins but that I had to decline.
PERSIMMON
This idyllic village stay was a fitting finale and soon it was time to say goodbye.
Thank you Granny Tina,Mama Erma,Dad, Teolina,George and Eraqali for giving us such unforgettable moments.Tbilisi was a revelation and I can’t wait to get back for the summer surprises.
MADLOBA FRIENDS
Uplistsikhe-The Lord’s Fortress-A peek into the Iron Age
Uplistsikhe is one of oldest urban settlements in Georgia and dates back to the Iron Age.It had been through multiple invasions and also ravages of time and a massive earthquake.What we get to see now are these enormous rock cut structures.According to legends the slaves were given tools made of gold and metal and they had to toil till the metal wore out.And then they were granted freedom and also the gold .I wish they had a choice !
In its heydays this place had about 700 rock structures of which only 150 remain.The oldest inhabitants were pagan worshippers.
We reached the site at noon and set out to explore the caves.There is a bit of steep climbing and one has to watch out for the slopes and pits.I went inside the caves expecting to see some distinct features but most look alike.It is hard to believe that there was once a sprawling city with temples,houses, hospitals,pharmacy,prison and interconnecting streets.Amazing how they have they carved into the rocks with primitive tools.
There are no drawings or carvings .Just bare walls with empty nooks.
WINE CELLAR
This is the 10th century church at the site of the original pagan temple.
I hope this unique cave complex makes it to the list of UNESCO heritage sites soon.
A Bridge Too Far
“That is the road we all have to take-over the Bridge of Sighs into eternity “-Soren Kierkegaard.
Tbilisi-city of cats & dogs
They are seen everywhere.Most of them look well fed and are friendly.. It is estimated that there are about 50,000 or more stray cats and dogs and Georgia is not a rabies free country.They need more animal shelters and vet clinics.
These are some of my feline and canine encounters.
I would find her at the door almost every day.
KNOCK KNOCK
GAMARJOBA, KITTY
Saw this adorable pup at an old fort.
I hope he finds a home soon.
Turtles can fly ?
On a serious note,Turtles can fly is a 2004 Kurdish movie directed by Bahman Gobadi.This is one movie I wish everyone watches at least once to see the horrors of mindless war through the eyes of innocent children.
I had seen this movie many years ago but still feel connected to it.
Haunting and lyrical.That is the power of cinema and children.
Tbilisi-statues and street art
Like churches statues are a common sight in Tbilisi.There are statues honouring saints, kings,poets,philosophers, artists ,statesmen and traditional art forms.Street art/graffiti also seem very popular.
St.GEORGE at FREEDOM SQUARE
KING VAKHTANG GORGASALI
TAMADA
Tamada is the toast master of the traditional georgian feast known as Supra.
LAMP LIGHTER
BERIKAOBA (DANCING RING)
SOFIKO CHIAURELI-actress
Have a look at these insightful comments.
True that!!
Narikala Fortress-deja vu once more.
Narikala Fortress seen from the cable car
Narikala Fort is a prominent landmark in Tbilisi. It was constructed in the 4 century and was expanded by the Arabs and Mongols over the centuries.In 1827 an earthquake destroyed parts of the fort and today we see remnants of what was once a heavily fortified citadel.
We took the cable car to go up the hill.It costs 1 lari and takes 2 minutes.We could also walk up the hill but I had seen the cable car from our room and wanted to try it.
From the top you can enjoy a spectacular panoramic view of the city.I was trying to identify the places and was delighted to locate our house.
It is a steep climb.You can find vendors with cold drinks and refreshments. Most of the fortress is in ruins though some parts look well preserved.
Finally we reached ‘HOME’ to see Mother of Georgia up close and personal.She did look massive and formidable.There is just a narrow strip in front of the statue and I was not adventurous enough to go across and take her anterior views.
From this statue there are many trails going up the hill We decided to walk down stopping at many places and taking pictures.One has to watch the steps as there are no railings and it is quite steep.
This fort offers a beautiful sight at night.
coutresy google images
I had another deja vu.
Mehrangarh fort,Jodhpur
This was taken in 2010 when the fort was decked up to celebrate the wedding of the king of Jodhpur.
My Blog 