Andrew Groves: Menswear, Archives, Systems

Andrew Groves: Menswear, Archives, Systems

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Menswear’s Hidden Operating System
Menswear is not fashion but infrastructure. An essay on uniforms, workwear, archives, and the systems that organise men’s clothing and behaviour.
 • Andrew Groves

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The Discipline and Devotion of Craig Green
What labour do you endure? What structure do you uphold? What weight do you bear?
 • Andrew Groves
C.P. Company’s Urban Protection: Anxiety, Technology, and Revelation
Towards the end of the 1990s, both fashion and art became preoccupied with the damaged body.
 • Andrew Groves
Stone Island’s Instructions for Authenticity
How a pair of jeans turned wear into a performance.
 • Andrew Groves
Different Class: How Football Stickers Went Ironic
At a glance, the sticker above looks just like one of the football stickers I wrote about last week.
 • Andrew Groves
Lamppost Loyal: Football Stickers and the Making of Belonging
Most people never notice them. The small vinyl stickers layered on lampposts, stuck on bus shelters or plastered above the piss stones in the pub…
 • Andrew Groves
When Garments Betray Us
In the mid-1990s, two men stood on a Soho street corner watching CCTV cameras swivel overhead.
 • Andrew Groves
The Haçienda Watch: Rituals of Remembering
For the last thirteen years, I’ve been watching people photograph themselves outside the Haçienda Apartments in Manchester.
 • Andrew Groves
Aitor Throup and the Art of Refusal
How resistance became methodology.
 • Andrew Groves
The Wrong People in the Right Clothes
Yesterday, CNN asked what happens when extremists wear fashion brands, using Stone Island as its example of how symbols can become contested.
 • Andrew Groves
The Business of Violence: Fashioning Hooligan Calling Cards
From engraved civility to photocopied menace
 • Andrew Groves
Do You Dare Enter the House of Dior?
Power, Control, and the Horror Behind the Gilded Doors
 • Andrew Groves
When Identity Becomes a Prison
Dress codes are never about clothes — they are about control.
 • Andrew Groves
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