We left Prime Hills at about 10.30 am, heading south, in moderately heavy traffic. The day was cloudy but not cold and the haziness of the air accentuated the colours that predominate here: pale green, pale ochre, pinkish red, aqua, grey blue apartment buildings passed either side of the elevated highway, none of them exactly the same but none really standing out either. We stopped along the way to pick up supplies at a super market which featured a sculpture court outside with imagery that seemed mostly derived from the moon and stars. Here, as in other markets, you will often find someone standing beside the fish or the meat counter spruiking their wares: gravel voiced old men or women with the heads and faces muffled by scarves and hats. Everything is already packaged and at the check-out each item, after the cashier rings it up, is individually wrapped again by an assistant. I’m always interested in the liquor displays: the red wines typically come from California, Chile or Argentina but you do find the odd Australian red as well, good quality, reasonably priced, indeed not much more than you would pay in Sydney. I bought a bottle of Penfolds Max’s, 2019, which I have hopes for.
Further south we turned off the main highway and wound our way through outer suburbs where rice fields, sometimes tiny, are interspersed between the houses laid out in grid patterns in the valleys. Ahead were pale blue hills and it soon became clear we were heading for a river valley that led upwards into the heights. There’s hardly any building on the hills and those there are are extremely discreet – unless they are temple or shrines, which you might see poking above the treeline near the summit. The towns are constructed in narrow valleys along the banks of the river, often in gorges; sometimes you pass the imposing gates of what may be mansions or castles, I don’t know. Suspension bridges lead off the road to establishments on the other bank. On the outskirts of one of these towns we became part of a slow crawl of traffic which threatened to continue all the way to our destination; so peeled off, crossed the river and went to a hotel for lunch.
It was a Chinese restaurant and the food was good. Afterwards we explored the lobby, the shop and environs: you could take a lift down to the river bank to watch the water pouring over stones in the rocky gorge. I became fascinated by the hotel decor: the generous proportions, the elegant furniture, the subtle decorative touches. There was a stand of dolls set up in celebration of Girls’ Week and Mayu reminded me of the sequence in the Kurosawa film Dreams in which the dolls all come to life. Outside a screen full of coloured whirligigs had been set up in front of the banks of the hotel air conditioning machines, masking their severe utilitarian appearance while also spinning gaily in the air they pump out.
The Prince Hotel is high up in the mountains. Outside our room there is a golf course. There is a lake, Ashinoko, nearby, and in postcards in the courtesy shop there are images of Mt Fuji on the other side of the water. Maybe we will see it tomorrow. The hotel’s façade approximates that of a castle from an indeterminate period of time, perhaps from the era of the Wars of the Roses. However the attempt to recall past eras is neither insistent nor over-bearing. You are just asked to acknowledge the possibility when you come inside, and once inside the only reminders of that legacy are found in the stained glass, which is pre-Raphaelite or Art Nouveau rather than Tudor; though who knows what Tudor glass looks like anyway? The hotel where we had lunch was Deco, I guess, but again there was no insistence upon the style in any of the detail or the proportions, which both seemed wholly Japanese.
We had an onsen after we arrived. We ate dinner in our room. Now we are all getting ready for bed, all four of us laid out in a row in the communal space. There’s an animal crying outside, we don’t know what it is: Monkey? Fox? Badger? Or may a Yokai peculiar to this place.
24.02.23




























