The Duke (of Dogs) + A Samarkand Story (on the unseen benefits of a pet)
Losing the world's best cat and finding another mission in life
The Duke E17 pub(p) in Walthamstow, East London
Surprise, surprise. The Duke E17 with the dog head sign was once just The Duke’sHead pub, most likely featuring a more traditional, more Royal-esque portrait as its iconic sign. Despite looks to the contrary (more gastropub scene) a true “local” has operated on this site in the North London borough of Waltham Forest since 1722. Originally a brewery operating behind an inn, The Duke’s Head was a home to coach operators and travellers on their way in- and out-of the City of London, about seven miles to the Southwest. During both world wars, versions of The Duke served warm soup to poor citizens and allowed local women to wash clothes in its heated water — some of that laundry juice likely made the beer a bit more tart. A small pub chain Dirty Liquor (Ei Group) currently runs The (pet-friendly) Duke E17, as well as the nearby Dog & Duck, Lord Morpeth E3, and the Tiger E9.
In the Tradition of Calvin Trillin’s, Tepper Isn’t Going Out: Adrian is Weeding Now
On the love of animals in Iraq…
This New Yorker never wanted a cat. No way, no how. What the hell was I going to do with a cat in a studio flat in Fort Greene, Brooklyn? Besides, how would I care for it, afford to feed it, keep it from jumping off the open window ledge two stories below and running away? None of these excuses mattered to the three women at quite possibly the worst Connecticut alcohol rehab in the history of the state.
“But you’re a vegetarian. You have to take him,” they told me, as I prepared to head back to the city, just 30 days sober.
“What does me being a vegetarian have to do with the price of lager in Germany?” I replied, smiling at my pithy retort.
“If you don’t take him, he’s just going to hang around and then freeze to death in the winter,” one replied pointedly. “Don’t you believe in all that animal rights stuff?”
“Okay, stop, stop, stop. You had me at ‘freeze to death.’” At the time, age 32, yes, I could still not watch Old Yeller for a second time and blanched at journalists who wrote about eating steaks after meeting their cows, but I aimed to get out of this alcohol mess, start back to work and redeem myself in journalism circles. Cats and dogs were not on my radar — neither was a constant little black-and-white reminder of my failings following me around the apartment. But imagining this little Tuxedo cat with green eyes and a wry meow, cold, wet and begging for food in nowheresville wrecked my plans. I plucked Norwich out of the yard of our sober house in Norwich and stashed him in my room for two days before a fellow inmate loaned me her cat carrier and I boarded a MetroNorth from Guilford back to face my demons in the city. With a cat. No one in my inner circle thought this was a good idea. It turned out to be one of the best decisions of my young life.
I didn’t think that at first. Norwich knew, however. After another bender, I lost more work and had to move from my studio flat into a shared house, no pets allowed. When I tried to pawn him off on a friend, Norwich shat in her shoes until I waited for all my housemates to evacuate for the weekend and snuck him into yet another room, in another shared house where he stayed undetected for two months. By the time we had to find yet another place, Norwich had captured my heart, and life without him seemed improbably impossible.
Don’t get me wrong… Norwich was not a lap cat. He didn’t do tricks… or cat videos on Instagram. He hated to be overly cuddled. Rather, at the least expected moment, Norwich would just sidle up beside me and accept pets, or jump on the back of my desk chair while I worked, oversseing my productivity like my first editor at the Tulsa World. But he sure was loyal. Norwich survived my failed job attempt in Qatar, as well as the trip home, a permanent move to Tudor City in Midtown Manhattan and eventually bone cancer which left him with three legs. He hopped around for love and Dreamies until late December 2019 when his heart just gave out, age 12.
Before then, however, I had found the second feline love of my life…

“Katie, I have a surprise for you,” I said over the phone from a semi-heated, semi-finished apartment below two guys from Afghanistan confused about this American’s purpose on a Silk Road sojourn in Uzbekistan.
“Ok… what is it?” my girlfriend of a year and change replied, never sure if I was bringing home some new rug or random piece of art I acquired in another far-flung country. I had recently convinced her to adopt Finchley, a shy, oddball little Tortie from the local shelter. “Wait, you’re not bringing home another cat, are you?”
“Funny you should say,” I replied. “I was walking home from the gym the other night and I heard this faint ‘meow, meow, meow’ coming from a constuction site, so I bent over and here runs this little kitten straight into my coat.”
“And so you brought the cat to yours,” she assumed. Katie was an emotional Ninja, having worked in corporate land for so long. I could never know exactly the thoughts that popped into her head unless we were in the same room — and even then, it was hit and miss.
“Yes, well, I did. But I promise I am going to find Samarkand (Sammie) a place. My fixer says he has some land and some cats there. I’ll just get her fixed up.”
“Ok,” Katie replied. “Just don’t bring her home. We have enough cats.”
“What about a dog?” I asked, half-joking. “There is this incredible little guy next door. He is so cute and friendly…”
“No.” And that was that.

Katie knew me pretty well by then and she likely guessed that the longer I held on to Sammie, the more likely she would be coming back with me. About a week left in my month’s stay in Uzbekistan — and two weeks of Sammie snoozing next to me when the Uzbeks plied me with vodka on nights out — I decided to stress test the system and see if I could get Sammie fixed up for flight. Not knowing anything other than Samarkand, Uzbekistan had a large veterinary college a mile away from my residence, I walked in that direction and stumbled across a pet shop and quite possibly the kindest Turkish cat lover in the entire country. She spoke hardly any English, and Turkish was a mouthful of consonants to me, but with pointed fingers and hand gestures, we took Sammie around to various bewildered vet students and their overseers to get Sammie chipped, vaccinated and eventually, a pet passport. I picked up a little collar, a lip-smooch decorated carry case and some toys. Total cost: $100, including the taxis.
On 8 December 2019, I took the train to Tashkent and boarded a Turkish Airlines flight home. The flight attendants couldn’t pay enough attention to this little unassuming kitty. She got treats, water and loads of cuddles, while I watched 10 hours of censored entertainment. After landing, the U.S. Customs officer asked if I had anything to declare. I put my coat over Sammie’s carrier, said “no” and walked through Newark with our new immigrant cat.
At first, Norwich, Finchley and Sammie had little spats. Two days later, however, Sammie had even wormed her little way into Katie’s heart. Her curiosity never ended, and included hopping around Katie’s and my workstations, insisting on helping with puzzles and Lego tree ornaments, and hopping up to always see the cuisine Katie prepared in the kitchen. But Sammie fully won over Katie when she perched herself on Katie’s chest and watched Saturday morning English football with her. She might not have meowed for the Aston Villa, but just the attention pleased my football obsessed girlfriend enough. Katie welcomed all Aston Villa fans.
For Christmas, the two of us traveled to Katie’s Birmingham, England to see her family. On 26 December 2019, while attending a highly sought-after Villa match, Katie got the call that Norwich had died. One of my best friends tried to comfort me by saying that Norwich saw Sammie, realised that we now had another cat to look after me and chose his time to cross that proverbial “rainbow bridge.” I was inconsolable during a break to Malta and upon coming home and not seeing Norwich waiting for me at the door. But my friend’s words proved wise. Sammie tried her best to take up Norwich’s big pawprints.
However, Sammie was sick herself, although one would have never guessed by the way she played around our apartment. Born with FIV — the cat version of HIV — she started having little teeth and nose infections here and there, and then her mouth became so infected, we had to have all her teeth removed. But cats adapt, and Sammie did just fine, pawing bits of her soft food into her mouth like a little polite feline princess before chewing it with her gums. When coronavirus and then Covid-19 enveloped New York City in lockdown and police and anti-police violence protestors started heavy unrest in Manhattan and every day for nine months felt like 9/11/2001 repeating itself over and over and over, Sammie brought us laughs and cuddles. She could even manage to cozy up to the interaction-adverse Finchley. When Katie and I decided to end our time in New York and relocate to London, no doubt both cats would come with us.

Nine months flew by before we could even say “we moved to London.” Sammie survived the flights, the moves, jumping in-and-out of the extra-tall boxes, and the change… until she didn’t. A sniffle turned into a respriatory infection, which Katie convinced a local vet to treat with antibiotics. Following a disastrous reporting trip to Iraq, after which I came home not-sober, Sammie and I both cuddled up trying to recover for two days. I did; she didn’t. Katie took Sammie to the Royal Veterinary Hospital clinic. The antibiotics weren’t helping and the infection had spread all over her body. Because of the FIV, Sammie didn’t have the strength to fight it off. The RVC put her to sleep in early December 2021. Katie and I cried for two days straight. We couldn’t believe our little bestie had come into our lives, brightened them so much and departed so quickly. Our only consolation: Norwich had been waiting at that now cliche Rainbow Bridge.
I never had a cat growing up in Tulsa, Oklahoma. Like many red-blooded Americans, I was a self-avowed “dog-lover” and neither paid attention to cats in general, nor their ways of expressing devotion and true companionship. Getting attached to any of these animals — and I have taken in several since Sammie and Norwich died — is a lesson in emotional treachery, as well. They become the constants in a life — the devoted best friends always there when human friends flake and plans fall through. They are co-workers in a largely work-from-home profession. They take up that empty bed-space after difficult breakups and serve as cuddle-buddies when that mind-numbing drug is screaming out for an overwhelmed mind in today’s Internet Wild West world. The treachery comes in their lifespans. If only the universe allowed dogs and cats to live as long as tortoises or parrots.
Don’t get me wrong. I still love cats; I still love dogs. I am still a vegetarian, although a more animal rights activist one in my later years. And I still pick up strays who need homes, including three in England and one in Iraq. The last one, Nawas, a little orange kitten found in a box on the streets of Baghdad, inspired the establishment of the Iraqi Street Animal Rescue Network (ISARO). When I couldn’t find a sanctuary for her, I contacted everyone I possibly knew for answers. Turns out, they had the same question as I did: How do we save these animals with whom we fall in love? Who become our family? Who protect us and treasure us and ask us for nothing but love and basic care?
Since helping found this little nonprofit, we have managed to do some amazing things, such as save Chickpea, a dog turned out of the Green Zone when her army buddies could no longer keep her. We have dispatched care to archaeologists in the nether regions of Iraq who, along with ancient bones, stumble upon the corpses of poisoned dogs and scramble to save the ones who survived. We have housed no fewer than nine cats until they can find a permanent home, in Iraq or abroad. We are determined to save animals and ensure that every human gets a chance to experience the love of a cherished pet. It’s life-altering when people open their hearts to them.








































