Read Part I, Part II, and Part III before diving into this post.

After soaking in the vibrant energy of Tashkent, getting lost in the history of Samarkand, and wandering the ancient streets of Bukhara, we reached our final stop: Khiva. While Tashkent buzzed with modern life, and Samarkand and Bukhara offered rich layers of culture, Khiva felt like stepping into a time capsule. In Rameen’s words, the sum is greater than its parts in khiva. It is one of the most intact historical centres in Central Asia, with the entire city walls and gates withstanding the test of time and conquests.

Nestled in the dusty stretches of the Kyzylkum Desert, Khiva is a city that was once a hub on the Silk Road. With its stunning old town, Itchan Kala, still standing strong, it’s easy to imagine the hustle and bustle of merchants from centuries ago.

Khiva: The Land of Khwarezm

Khiva was once the heart of the Khwarezmian Empire and an influential power in Central Asia long before the rise of the great Silk Road cities. The Khwarezmians, an ancient Iranian people, ruled vast territories that stretched from the Caspian Sea to the Amu Darya River. Khiva itself was one of the empire's key centers, strategically located on the trade routes connecting the East and West. The city became famous not only for its rich culture and thriving trade but also for its fortified walls and grand palaces, which still stand today.

Throughout its history, Khiva faced invasions and changes in power—from the Mongol conquests in the 13th century to the rise of the Khiva Khanate in the 16th century. The city's most notable period came during the reign of the Khiva Khans, who made the city a political and cultural hub in the region. As a result, Khiva became an important player in Central Asian politics, attracting scholars, poets, and artists. Despite enduring the ravages of time and war, much of Khiva's ancient architecture remains remarkably well-preserved, allowing visitors today to step back into a time when this small oasis was a bustling, vibrant center of civilization.

Exploring the Fortress on Foot

Khiva reminded me of Jaisalmer, with souks, restaurants, and hotels located within the fortress. We stayed in one such hotel run by our local logistics guide, Ali, making it easy for us to explore the area at any hour.

We had two full days to walk around the fortress, visit the many madrasas and mausoleums, shop for handicrafts, and catch stunning sunset hues and city views from our hotel’s terrace. While I cannot remember the names of all the sites we explored, some notable ones are as follows:

Muhammad Amin Khan Madrasa is one of Khiva’s most iconic landmarks, standing proudly as the largest madrasa in the city. Built in the 17th century by the influential Khan Muhammad Amin, this grand structure is renowned for its impressive architecture, featuring a vast courtyard, tall domes, and intricately painted tiles. It’s a stunning example of Islamic education centers, where scholars once gathered to study the Quran, mathematics, and philosophy.

The towering minaret of Islam Khoja is impossible to miss in Khiva’s skyline, reaching a height of 45 meters. Built in the early 20th century, this minaret is one of the tallest in Uzbekistan and was constructed as part of a larger complex that includes the Islam Khoja Madrasa. The tower, originally designed to serve as a watchtower, offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding desert landscape.

The Pahalwan Mahmood Mausoleum is an important spiritual and historical site in Khiva, dedicated to Pahalwan Mahmood, a legendary wrestler, poet, and a revered figure in Khiva’s history. The mausoleum, with its striking blue dome and fine tile work, is a place of pilgrimage for locals and visitors alike. It was built in the 14th century and is known not only for its religious significance but also for its peaceful surroundings, offering a quiet spot to reflect and admire the craftsmanship of the era.

The Juma Masjid (Friday Mosque) is one of the oldest and most significant religious sites in the city. Built in the 10th century, the mosque is known for its unique blend of architectural styles, which reflect both Islamic and pre-Islamic traditions. The mosque’s most striking feature is its ceiling, supported by a forest of 218 wooden columns. These columns, made from local materials like wood and clay, are intricately carved, with no two being exactly the same. Just adjacent to the mosque stands the Juma Minaret, built much later in the 19th century. The combination of the Juma Masjid and its minaret offers a glimpse into Khiva's long and rich Islamic history, with the mosque acting as a place of worship and community gathering, while the minaret symbolizes the city's role as a spiritual center in the region.

Anusha Khan’s Hamam is a beautifully preserved example of an ancient Persian-style bathhouse in Khiva. Built during the reign of Anusha Khan in the 17th century, this hamam served as both a place for relaxation and socializing. The bathhouse has arched ceilings, a central domed space, and a series of small rooms designed for steam, washing, and massage.

The Toshovli Palace, built in the 19th century, served as the residence of the Khiva Khans. The palace showcases the opulence of the ruling elite at the time, with ornate courtyards, intricate wooden carvings, and stunning tile mosaics. The interior is just as remarkable as the exterior, with beautifully decorated rooms, a throne hall, and private quarters that offer a peek into the royal family’s everyday life.

A Taste of Khiva

The mausoleums and sites at Khiva were breathtakingly beautiful but my favourite part was the food. We got to taste food native to the place, including delicious shivit oshi and bayla kebab at Terrassa cafe. Shivit Oshi is a traditional Uzbek rice dish, commonly known as green noodles or green pilaf. It’s made of shivit (dill), which gives the noodles / rice its vibrant green color and a fresh, aromatic flavor, and is topped with meat. Bayla Kebab, on the other hand, is a flavorful twist on the classic Central Asian kebab. Unlike the typical skewered meat, it is made by stuffing minced meat (usually lamb or beef) into a casing of dough, which is then grilled to perfection.

All good things come to an end

When I first read the Uzbekistan itinerary shared by Rameen, I imagined Khiva would be my favorite place. I had heard of Samarkand and Bukhara from every person who had been to Uzbekistan, but Khiva felt like an underrated gem that not many international tourists visit. This was true to some extent, with fewer crowds and a slower life. However, it also felt very curated. The fortress has been gentrified, as is the reality in so many historical sites around the world. Very few original residents of the fortress continue to live within it, making it feel more like a staged fortress rather than a living one. We barely stepped out of the fortress during our two days in Khiva, and maybe I’d have gotten a better glimpse of daily life had we ventured out.

Ten days is too short a period to truly soak in a place like Uzbekistan. It felt like a long trip, and I might have preferred a few shorter trips over time, with more time to loiter at each place, rather than one long trip trying to pack in a lot. Nevertheless, I’m glad I finally set foot in Central Asia and got a glimpse of the mosaic paradise that it is. Hopefully, this is just one of many trips to come, with the next few places on my list being Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Azerbaijan!