As the car swung around a series of blind curves slowly climbing into the foothills, my heart was pounding in my chest. The GPS chimed in to announce that, in one thousand feet, my destination would be on the right. I started to cry. I felt like I couldn’t breathe. What if it was all wrong? What if it was terrible? What if I had fucked absolutely everything?
I had been staying at a bad-luck motel in town for several days actively avoiding this moment. I had made every excuse under the sun about things that needed doing before I could make my first trip out to my new property. I had to get a phone that would work in this country. I needed to focus on getting a car to replace the rental before the reservation ran out. I needed to get the electric turned on first, and find a plumber who could get the water up and running. I had to, um… wash my hair.
It had taken so much to get here. Years of planning and making, and then saving, money. Months of negotiations and inspections and consultations with a real estate lawyer. Countless middle-of-the-night phone calls from the other side of the globe with my bank and the real estate agent. But I had done it. I had bought a house in cash over the internet from seven thousand miles away. I had gotten me and my three animals and a paltry portion of all of my earthly possessions onto a plane and to Toronto, and then across the border to a small village just outside of the Adirondack Park.
And now it was the moment of truth. What the fuck had I actually done?
It wasn’t the first of these moments I’d ever had in my life. I climbed out of a shitty black minivan onto the street in front of a college campus in Brooklyn, where I had never set foot in my life. I had deplaned in Incheon to announcements in a language I didn’t speak to find a man holding a sign with my name on it outside customs. I had gotten married not once, but twice, in front of a judge at a courthouse almost on a whim. (Oh, y’all have never heard about my first marriage have you? That’s a story for another time.) I had unlocked the door to a dilapidated, moldy commercial space in a rundown neighborhood in Seoul that was officially leased in my name with nothing but a bucket and a mop in hand.
Contemplating what the fuck I had actually done was kind of my specialty. But it felt different this time. There was a lot more on the line. And I wasn’t young anymore. Approaching forty, I could feel the tank on my fuel for adventure getting close to empty. I had been through so much, and I was tired. I wasn’t trying for the next big unknown. I was trying to, finally, come home.
The car pulled around the final blind curve, and the little red cabin came into view. We pulled into the gravel drive, and I sat for a moment trying to catch my breath. Charlie tapped his feet impatiently on the seat beside me. I wiped my tears, took a deep breath and opened the car door. I was home.
Since that moment, what has unfolded has been nothing short of a relentless love affair. I arrived in June, when the grass was high and the foxglove and irises were in full bloom. I fell hard and fast, lying under her trees down by the rushing creek in the dappled sunlight for hours. There were hiccups, of course. The moisture in the basement from having the sump pump cut off for three years caused the breaker box to completely give up the ghost, and I spent a week reading by candlelight and bathing in creek water. The mice, at first, were relentless, until my beautiful huntress Vera brought them to heel. There were the old, moldy carpets and the leak in the kitchen and all of the doors that wouldn’t close properly.
But the days lasted forever, and the land slowly revealed her charms, keeping me under her spell. Wild strawberries, raspberry patches and the ancient apple tree near the road. Summer was one brilliant surprise after another, as I ventured further and further out from the house. The deer down by the creek in the mornings. The woodchuck under the lean-to with her babies. Little fox tracks in the mud around the woodshed after a rain. There was the work shed in the clearing full of old farrier tools and buckets and buckets of horseshoes. And the gentle afternoon creaking of the balsam fir trees and maples in the otherwise silent woods.
The onset of fall carried with it the most incredible display of colors I’ve ever seen in my life. Even now, three autumns deep, it still takes my breath away. And then came winter.
She took it easy on me, that first year. Made me think I had it all under control. But this past winter, I saw her true face for the first time. Five feet of standing snow on the ground (and on the roof) that stuck around for several months. The dog and I were relegated to a small, narrow tunnel leading from the front door to the woodshed out back that I re-dug every couple of days, until a neighbor took pity (mostly, I think, on my dog) and came with his tractor to plow a small yardish patch. I spent hours every day shoveling snow, stacking wood and tending the fire. One night, I sat up on the sofa wrapped in blankets and watched the temperature outside creep down to -18 degrees Fahrenheit, as the wind roared through the woods and whipped around the house. But the house held.
Like any good lover, she can be challenging. But she remains stunningly beautiful and rewarding throughout. There is a pair of ravens who also call the property home, and every single day, without fail, when I dragged myself outside to shovel, they would come out from the woods and circle overhead, croaking out gentle encouragement until I went back inside.
And summer came back, eventually. For better or for worse.
What got me thinking about all of this was when Hozier’s “Work Song” came on this morning while I was washing up. I heard this song for the first time just a couple of weeks after I moved here, and I realized this morning that I don’t associate the song — a rather intense love song — with a person. Instead, when I hear it, I think about this place.
When I arrived here, neither one of us were in great shape. This property had sat abandoned for three years, weathering the seasons without anyone to look after her. She was — and in a lot of ways, still is — in rough shape. I wasn’t doing much better. I was exhausted, worn down, traumatized and only just barely beginning to heal. But slowly, we have been working on each other. She has held me through so many dark nights, nursing me back to health. And every day when I leave to go to my backbreaking, feet busting job in town, I think about how it will all be worth it in the end. I’ll pour it back into her, until she reaches her full potential. Because I can already feel her pulling me up to meet mine.
When Hozier sings:
When my time comes around,
Lay me gently in the cold, dark earth.
No grave could hold my body down.
I’ll crawl home to her.
I think of no one but her. In fact, it’s her earth I think about, and what a peaceful sleep that would be. They’ll have to carry me out of here someday. That’s the only way I’m leaving.







