Words: Elizabeth Smith
Photos: Maja Janevska-Ilieva

Vranec — A Variety With a Sense of Place

On a recent journey through North Macedonia hosted by Wines of Macedonia, I discovered a vibrant movement reshaping the future of the country’s flagship grape: Vranec (also known as Vranac). Anchored by two key events, Taste of Awards 2025 and the Vranec Wine Salon, the experience revealed a country confidently defining its most important variety — and inviting wine travelers along for the ride.

Vranec — the “black stallion” — is bold by nature: deeply colored, often high in tannin and alcohol, and capable of serious structure. But across North Macedonia, it is increasingly defined by vineyard and winemaking choices, not just power. Producers are dialing back excess, resulting in a spectrum of styles.

My journey with a group of journalists followed the Vardar River Valley, where warm days, cool nights, and centuries of viticultural traditions create notable, award-winning wines. Over four days, we traveled from Veles, to the heart of the Tikveš Wine District, then into Skopje’s emerging wine scene. We shared meals at vineyard tables and enjoyed overnight stays in winery accommodations or nearby. It was an introduction not only to Vranec’s many expressions, but also a rich and vibrant culture where wine, hospitality, and natural beauty are inseparable.

Day 1

Chateau Sopot — Veles Wine District
Website: https://chateausopot.mk

Located at the beautiful junction of the Vardar Valley and Lake Mladost, Chateau Sopot was our first stop — and my first visit to a Macedonian winery. It is a boutique producer known as much for its hospitality — led by manager Sashko Atanasov — as its wines. Established in 2006, Chateau Sopot quickly became a must-stop in the Veles Wine District.

Under the helm of winemaker Bozidar Ilevski, Chateau Sopot focuses on crafting wines that are true to terroir and vintage variation. The onsite restaurant where we enjoyed our breakfast tasting features local gastronomy paired with its wines. Whether guests join for breakfast/brunch, lunch, or dinner, the estate’s elegant yet relaxed atmosphere embodies the region’s distinctive character.

Signature Vranec: Chateau Sopot Vranec Reserve — lush and plush, with powerful juicy dark fruit flavors peppered with spice.

Stobi Winery — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://stobiwinery.mk/

Founded in 2009 and located near the Stobi archaeological ruins (which we also visited) is the site’s namesake winery. Under CEO Ana Jordanova and winemaker Andon Krstevski, Stobi Winery has grown to be one of North Macedonia’s largest and most technologically advanced producers. Stobi manages about 500 hectares (1,236 acres) of vineyards producing 17 grape varieties, combining tradition and innovation to create a broad, high-quality portfolio of wines across all price points.

Our tour, tasting, and lunch at the winery’s restaurant, hosted by Krstevski, emphasized versatility, with wines that range from approachable everyday bottles to premium offerings. The visitor experience includes cellar and vineyard tours and tastings — making it an ideal stop for first-time travelers.

Signature Vranec: Stobi Veritas Vranec — concentrated and polished, with black cherry, blackberry, and chocolate notes.

Tikveš Winery and Tikveš Chateaux & Domaines — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://tikves.com.mk

Founded in 1885, Tikveš Winery exemplifies North Macedonia’s wine industry throughout the world, with its long history and remarkable success. The winery oversees 6,300 hectares (15,568 acres) of vineyards (1,300 hectares/3,212 acres of estate vineyards), including Château de Gourdon in France’s Southern Rhône Valley. In spite of its size, Tikveš “picks every grape on our vineyards by hand. Grape by grape.”

Tikveš weaves tradition with state-of-the-art winegrowing and production methods to produce classic and premium wines under the watchful eye and confident hand of storied head of winemaking Marko Stojaković — whose pedigree includes formative years in Bordeaux and Montpellier — and his team of 12 enologists.

Our welcome visit to Domaine Lepovo and our evening winery tour and multi-course dinner underscored Tikveš’s role not just as a world-class wine producer, but as a historical and cultural institution, demonstrating a spectacular fusion of Macedonian wine, food, and culture.

Signature Vranec: Tikveš Bela Voda Red — a critically acclaimed, seductive, single-vineyard blend of 70% Vranec, 30% Plavec — full bodied, juicy, and silky smooth.

Day 2

Popov Winery — Tikveš Wine District
Website: http://popovwinery.com.mk/en

Established in 2001, Popov Winery is a small family estate of 40 hectares (99 acres) in Sopot, the heart of Tikveš. Under winemaker Vlatko Ancev, the estate continues to evolve, with an emphasis on consistency and quality, which has resulted in a small, focused portfolio of award-winning wines in international competitions.

Our tour and tasting experience with Ancev was warm and personal, and the wines paired with local bites to exemplify their integration with regional cuisine. With vineyards surrounding the winery and in nearby plots, we easily felt at home at Popov.

Signature Vranec: Popov Reserve Vranec — warm and peppery, with flavors like juicy black cherry and rich dark chocolate.

Bovin Winery — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://bovin.mk/

Founded in 1998 by brothers Kiril and Gjorgji Bogevski, Bovin — dubbed “The Crown Of Macedonian Wines” — is North Macedonia’s first privately built winery, helping to put Vranec on the world map shortly after wine industry privatization.

With around 60 hectares (148 acres) of estate vineyards, the winery incorporates modern winemaking with environmentally friendly vineyard practices to make concentrated, age-worthy reds that appeal to both local and international consumers.

Our visit included a tour and tasting lunch, giving us an opportunity to sample a wide range of Bovin’s wines.

Signature Vranec: Bovin Imperator Vranec — plush and ripe — typical of the winery’s classic, age-worthy style.

Venec Winery — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://venec.mk/

Venec Winery, founded in 1956 and modernized in recent years, is one of the long-established estates of the Tikveš Wine District. It features estate-grown, single-vineyard, traditional Macedonian varieties from its 350 hectares (865 acres), with Vranec taking center stage.

Winemaker Kire Ristov crafts Vranec and other varieties from select blocks, emphasizing bright fruit flavors. His style tends toward savory, terroir-driven wines that prioritize vineyard expression over heavy winemaking intervention.

Signature Vranec: Venec Orle Vranec — lush and textured — with silky tannins, lively black cherry, and a dash of spice.

Popova Kula Winery — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://popovakula.com.mk/en

Founder and owner Jordan Trajkov created Popova Kula, a world-class destination, which includes the winery, a hotel with 33 rooms, an auto camp, a restaurant, and a wine and gift shop. On a clear day (which we did not get to experience), spectacular views of Demir Kapija Canyon beckon guests to sip, dine, and stay a while. (This is a sign that I should return during the warmer months to enjoy the winery’s beautiful terrace and outdoor spaces.)

Trajkov and winemaker Neven Andonov focus on producing high-quality indigenous and international varieties — which only come from their own estate vineyards — pairing them with exceptional hospitality and food in a naturally beautiful setting.

Signature Vranec: Popova Kula Perfect Choice Vranec — structured and expressive, with intense dark fruit and a luxuriously long finish.

Day 3

Dane Hermes Wine Estate — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://danehermes.com

Dane Hermes, founded by renowned international winemaker Dr. Dane Jovanov, is an intimate, boutique winery in Tikveš. Described as “An Artful Symphony of Nature and Craft”, the winery prioritizes small-lot wines from Lepovo vineyards. Warm and friendly hospitality experiences are typically hosted by Jovanov himself.

Jovanov’s approach is distinct: subtle, terroir-focused wines that are the result of exceptional winegrowing and precise winemaking. His emphasis on craftsmanship and storytelling makes for a delightful and memorable visit for those who appreciate premium winemaking coupled with personalized tours and tastings.

Signature Vranec: Dane Hermes Vranec — Jovanov has “tamed the stallion” — offering a harmonious and elegant rendition, with fresh black fruit flavors gently cradled in chocolate, spice, and oak.

Chateau Kamnik — Skopje Wine District
Website: https://chateaukamnik.com

Founded in 2004 on a hilltop overlooking Skopje, Chateau Kamnik is one of North Macedonia’s most award-winning boutique estates. Situated on 17 hectares (42 acres) of vineyards, Chateau Kamnik combines a sense of place with contemporary winemaking techniques, producing age-worthy wines with depth and precision. Led by winemaker Sandra Krstevska and her team, the estate has garnered numerous awards and well-earned recognition at major international competitions.

Chateau Kamnik’s Hunter’s Lodge and Restaurant allows guests to enjoy Vranec and other wines with specially selected food pairings, then return to modern, comfortable rooms just steps from the estate’s vineyards.

Signature Vranec: Chateau Kamnik Terroir Vranec — one of its most distinguished reds — rich, ripe, and robust — once described by critics as “an iron fist in a velvet glove.”

Day 4

Chateau Rizov — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://www.vardarskadolina.mk/

Chateau Rizov is a family-owned winery that channels warm Tikveš terroir into classic and premium wines that show approachability, balance, and structure. With 25 hectares (62 acres) of estate vineyards and fruit from carefully selected winegrowing partners, its wines reveal a sense of place and drinkability that resonate with wine connoisseurs and new enthusiasts.

Winemaker Lazar Pletvarski’s philosophy emphasizes vineyard expression over intervention, resulting in bright, fruit-forward whites and ageable reds.

Signature Vranec: Chateau Rizov Vranec — an award-winning, medium-bodied red with juicy dark fruit coupled with savory spice.

Lazar Winery — Tikveš Wine District
Website: https://lazarwinery.mk/

Led by founder and winemaker Lazar Ristov, Lazar Winery produces wines from 20 hectares (50 acres) of estate vineyards and 30 hectares (74 acres) of fruit from trusted growers. The winery marries traditional and contemporary techniques to produce both sparkling and still wines, showing its versatility beyond Vranec. In fact, 75% of Lazar’s production is sparkling and white wines.

Lazar Winery also has a restaurant and accommodations. Its setting — near ancient ruins and fertile valley terrain — enhances the sense of history and tradition. Our lunch here paired local dishes with their broad family of wines, highlighting their food-friendly nature.

Signature Vranec: Lazar Bukefal Vranec — savory and spicy, with oak, coffee, and berry notes that are a match for grilled meats and regional recipes.

Stay in North Macedonia

Hotel Glorius — Veles (https://glorius.mk/)
Our journey began with an overnight stay at Hotel Glorius, a property overlooking Lake Mladost. The hotel hosted a welcome dinner and introductory masterclass on Vranec and the Vardar River Valley, providing a warm and welcoming setting for the group’s arrivals and orientation.

Hotel Angro Palace — Kavadarci (https://angropalace.com/)
Located in the heart of the Tikveš wine district, Hotel Angro Palace was a comfortable and convenient overnight stay between winery visits. The made-to-order breakfast was welcomed in advance of a full day of tastings and tours.

Popova Kula Winery Hotel and Restaurant — Demir Kapija (https://popovakula.com.mk/en/)
A highlight of the journey, Popova Kula combines a winery, hotel, and restaurant into a true wine tourism destination. Our dinner and breakfast there offered us a brief immersion into Macedonian hospitality.

Chateau Kamnik Hunter’s Lodge and Restaurant — Skopje (https://chateaukamnik.com)
Just outside Skopje and a short walk from the winery, Hunter’s Lodge at Chateau Kamnik is a blend of rustic charm and modern comfort. A hearty late-afternoon lunch at the restaurant during our visit paired regional dishes with estate wines, reinforcing the seamless connection between the two.

Why Vranec — and Why Now

Explored across four days of winery tours, tastings, and paired with regional cuisine — plus two celebratory events in Skopje — Vranec revealed itself as far more than a dark, powerful variety. Led by a new generation of winemakers, Vranec is no longer simply a regional curiosity — it is a thread connecting North Macedonia’s past and future in the world of wine. Each example we tasted embodied a sense of pride, accompanied by a growing belief that North Macedonia’s wines belong on the global stage.

Why North Macedonia

For travelers seeking authentic, under-explored destinations, North Macedonia offers something increasingly rare — face-to-face access to winemakers, the beauty of unspoiled landscapes, and wines firmly rooted in centuries of tradition, yet poised for international success.

As Vranec continues its renaissance and evolution, North Macedonia’s Vardar River Valley stands ready — glass in hand. It welcomes visitors not just to taste its wines, but to understand them — a compelling reason for wine travelers to look toward the Balkans with fresh eyes.