Does it Rain in Northern Norway? | Arctic Tour 2024 [6/14]

After our small adventures in Kilpisjärvi, we drove across the border into Norway. Our target for this fifth day of our Arctic Tour was the city of Tromsø. It was, however, a day that would be dominated by a lot of rain. It rained almost continuously from the moment we crossed the border until we reached the outskirts of the city. We began to ask ourselves several questions. Where were we going to be able to find a campsite in such a popular destination? How would we be able to explore the city if the rain did not stop? This is the sixth of fourteen posts about our great Nordic adventure.

The landscape of Northern Norway is dramatically different from the parts of Finland we had just left behind. The region is defined by its long, deeply indented coastline, with steep mountains rising directly from the sea to form spectacular fjords. Despite its high latitude, well inside the Arctic Circle, the coastal areas are kept relatively mild by the influence of the North Atlantic Current, an extension of the Gulf Stream. This allows for settlement and keeps the ports ice-free year-round. The main transport routes, such as the E6 and E8 highways, wind their way along the shores of these fjords, creating a scenic but often long driving experience.

Driving to Tromsø

We made only three short stops on our way to Tromsø, as the weather was not very inviting for longer explorations. The first was at the rapids of Rovijokfossen, just a short distance after the border crossing. We then had a brief walk in the village of Skibotn, located at the intersection of the E6 and E8 highways at the head of the Lyngen Fjord. Our third stop was at the Nordkjosbotn Rasteplass, a rest area at another major road junction. It was at this rest area that we really began to wonder if it would rain during our whole visit to Tromsø, as the gray clouds showed no sign of breaking.

Tromsø is the largest urban area in Northern Norway and the third largest north of the Arctic Circle anywhere in the world. The city is located on the island of Tromsøya, with its suburbs spreading to the mainland and the island of Kvaløya. It is often referred to as the “Gateway to the Arctic” due to its long history as a base for polar exploration, including the famous expeditions of Roald Amundsen. In the modern era, it is a major university city, home to the University of Tromsø – The Arctic University of Norway. This gives the city a vibrant and international atmosphere.

Rain in Tromsø

We did eventually arrive at the campsite in Tromsø that we had been aiming for. Sadly for us, and as a huge disappointment, we were informed that the campsite was already fully booked. We were soon contemplating that we should maybe stay somewhere else for the night. Perhaps we should just continue on the road towards Alta? This was the downside of traveling without pre-booking our overnight stops. We had the freedom to change our plans, but it also meant we sometimes faced the risk of not finding a place to stay.

Either way, we still wanted to see Tromsø. Finding a parking spot in the center for a motorhome was a challenge in itself. Once we had found one, we could at least spend some time walking around in the city. The rain was just a light drizzle at this point and did not disturb us too much. Little A was especially happy as we found a playground where she was allowed to play. While she played, we could also see one of the ferries of Hurtigruten leaving the harbor. Traveling with those ferries along the Norwegian coast is a long-time dream of ours, but it is a dream that has to wait for a future trip. Our short visit ended with a feeling that we one day want to give Tromsø a second chance, probably spending more time here to not be so affected by the rain.

A Night in Lyngseidet

Instead of driving back towards Skibotn and all the way around the many fjords, we found an alternative route. It was a smaller road that included two ferry crossings but would significantly shorten our travel distance. So, we drove to Breivikeidet, from where a ferry took us across the Ullsfjorden to Svensby. From Svensby, there was a shorter drive to Lyngseidet. From here, a ferry to Olderdalen would connect us back to the main E6 highway. Instead of pushing to get a spot on the last ferry, I suggested that we should spend the night here and take the first ferry in the morning. After all, we needed to get some sleep, and the quiet harbor was a perfect spot to park the motorhome for the night.

While my travel companions went to sleep, I headed out on a nightly walk. The rain had subsided, and I had a great view of the mountains of the Lyngen Alps as well as of the fjord. I did eventually start walking towards the stone stairs known as Lyngentrappa. It looked quite innocent from below, and I started to climb. It was only after around 200 steps that I had a look online for information about these steep steps. I then found out that there is a total of more than 1,200 steps and a climb of around 450 meters to the top. That was when I decided against it. I did not want to do that climb alone in the middle of the night. I did, however, have a great view from my position just a short way up.

Onwards to Alta

Waking up in the morning, we were greeted by the sight of the ferry arriving in the harbor. We were soon onboard for our short ride across the fjord to Olderdalen. Once we arrived, we continued directly on our journey towards Alta. We made only a short stop in the village of Rotsund and at a rest area with a bus stop named Tretten Kryss before lunch. We did eventually have our lunch stop at Baddereidet. This was the site of a former prisoner camp from the Second World War. For me, it meant seeing a lot of reindeer, but also the chance to climb a small mountain.

I found a small path up the hillside next to the rest area. It might have been cloudy and with limited sight at the top, but it still felt like an achievement to reach the summit and get the view of the valley below. The lunch break was then followed by a short walk in the village of Talvik. We did eventually reach Alta, where we found a spot at one of the campsites. We then drove into the center of Alta for some shopping. Susann needed a new jacket before we headed even further north towards Nordkapp. Other than that, we had a calm afternoon preparing for what was to come.