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This was my second attempt at a pair of Thursdays. My first was the Dukes on the old RT3 last. These Captains came on the new Kingmaker, which is rounder. I don’t wear the Dukes because of too much pressure on the tops of the toe box, a problem which unfortunately seems to replicate itself here, despite having ordered a different boot, in a different size, made on a different last. But, I can’t fault the obviously high quality and build of this product. So I will speak to that first.
I loved the workmanship on the Captains. I ordered these in Arizona Adobe. The leather was beautiful, thick, and durable. I would agree with other recent reviewers that it was definitely more of a chocolate brown than the burnt orange that is pictured. Some folks have theorized that a certain batch of Arizona Adobe leather came in darker that others this time, and that this batch just needs to work its way through the product line. If you’re looking for something closer to the burnt orange pictured, try another color or wait until other folks (or the company itself) can attest to a batch that more closely matches the Arizona Adobe pictured. That all being said, I actually liked the chocolate brown these turned out to be, so your mileage may vary.
Regarding construction, there’s no question they would hold up to years of hard wear, the studded sole is tough and the leather remarkably scuff resistant. Laces felt strong and durable. Welt was clean and there were no errant stitches that I could find anywhere on the boot. The rubber studded sole was beautiful and high quality. The quarters seemed a little flimsy, I was expecting something similar to cowboy boot quarters which are often firmer leather or reinforced with plastic, but these felt more like dress shoe quarters to me. Obviously in a boot like this, and any shoe really, your heel doesn’t bend or flex or move much compared to your instep and forefoot, so the need for super tough heel quarters may be unnecessary, I only mention it because it felt strange given the heavier duty feeing about the rest of the boot. Apart from that, craftsmanship was truly punching above its weight class on these, and they represent a great value on construction quality alone.
The problem, and it’s why I returned them, is the shape and design of the last does not work for my feet for some reason. I’m a 10.5E on a Brannock device but I fit a 10D in most shoes and cowboy boots with a few exceptions depending on the boot maker. 10.5D in Vans. I followed Thursday’s recommendation of sizing a half size down and ordered a 10D. The resulting fit was appropriate for most of my foot. They fit well everywhere, perhaps even a little wide in the midfoot. Heel felt comfortably snug despite my reservations about the quarters. The issue is the toe box. I can feel the toe box with the tops of my toes and it exerts a mild to medium but constant pressure on them. I’ve had trouble with ingrown nails in the past and after a few days, my toes just hurt and I start to feel that if I keep wearing them, my ingrown nail issues will return. Maybe I have abnormally large Big Toes on both feet, but this issue is usually not a problem with other shoes in similar sizes, including multiple pairs of Dan Post and Capitan cowboy boots with R toes and cutter toes respectively. Never had a problem. Going a half size larger with these, (as I did with my other Thursdays Dukes) makes my foot swim in the boots, they are much too large. Half size down or wide size wouldn’t fix a toe box that isn’t tall enough.
The only thing I can chalk it down to is that the shape of the last just doesn’t work for my feet. Every bootmaker and shoe maker has different lasts around which they build their shoes to make a consistent product across multiple size and width configurations. I’m sure last development is very difficult, and based on the huge number of five star reviews on these things, Thursday has obviously created a great product that works well for a lot of people. I wish they had worked for me.
I suspect I might have more luck with the heavier duty models that come with lug soles and puff toes, but I find lug soles unfashionable for my sense of style. It may just be that I’m out of luck on Thursdays. I really wanted to like these and to have them work out, but for that reason I had to return them.
Fabric type
100% Leather
Sole material
Rubber
Shaft height
6''
Shaft circumference
14 inches
About this item
- THE PERFECT FIT - We recommend ordering the size you typically wear in leather boots or dress shoes, or ½ size smaller than you typically wear in sneakers. If you have any questions, need help finding your size, or need to exchange for a different size, our team is always here to help! (Last: Encore)
- THE CAPTAIN ANKLE BOOT - Complement any outfit from jeans to a business suit in this versatile minimalist boot that is handcrafted and hand stitched for a timeless look
- UNPARALLELED WORKMANSHIP - Genuine leather boots carefully crafted from hand-selected materials so you can go the extra mile with confidence; high quality leather upper provides a finished look that gets better with age
- THURSDAY'S SIGNATURE CRAFTSMANSHIP - Superior men's boots designed for weekdays to weekends featuring a fully lined supple glove leather interior, studded rubber outsoles, and cork-bed midsoles that form to your feet for added comfort
- CLASS OF ITS OWN - We make zero compromises in terms of quality materials or manufacturing; Our unique tailor-made production delivers quality handcrafted footwear where no two pairs are alike with distinctive marks & colors
