overall I really enjoy this 3D printer. the best one for the price here are my tips and suggestions I'd get at least 2 different colors, i bought blue and grey and now i wish i bought a translucent color too. brand HatchBox some say the little menu knob is irritating to use but it doesn't bug me and you can always print a different one if you dont like it ;) #1 DITCH THE SD CARD THAT COMES WITH IT, 3/4 prints i did with the original sd card would reach 99% and stop there, the printer wouldn't return home and sat on the last spot and froze there causing plastic to drip on the print. after using a name brand sd card the printer works normal and returns home after printing. I use blue painters tape in three strips to completely cover the bed. i do have a 1mm gap between each strip of tape which doesn't affect the print one bit, but over lapping the tape will. i use normal school glue like Elmer's white glue one the bed for bed adhesion which stick on extremely well. do not use hair spray, it leaves a residue and you have to change the tape more often and the chemicals can eat the grease off of the axis rods. when the bed is one degree from the temperature you want then i use the included yellow scraper to spread the glue, if you do it too early it dries up and cools the bed down taking even longer to heat up. remember half the battle is adjusting the slicer settings, it can greatly affect the print quallity, most of the time the printer is not at fault. also sometimes the models you download from thingiverse.com have errors or other issues and are interpreted by the slicer incorrectly causing print errors. i use cura and I've heard simplify 3d works well also. here are my settings in cura layer height 0.2 mm initial layer height 0.25-0.3 mm wall thickness 0.8 mm and sometimes 1.2 mm (must be a multiple of the hot end of 0.4 mm) top/bottom thickness same as above infill density 25% but depends on what you want infill layer thickness 0.2 mm printing temperature 200 or 205 C and i use HatchBox PLA, works great for me build plate temperature 60 C diameter 1.75 mm flow 100% enable retraction yes retraction distance 1-2mm depending on what you print (very important setting and the next one too) retraction speed 25 mm print speed 35-50 mm per second depending on the detail/complexity of your print and i don't recommend anything over 55 maybe 60 max, any higher and it affect the quality of the print infill speed 55 mm per second travel speed 65-70mm per second initial layer speed 15 mm per second 1st layer is the most important and should be slow always print with a skirt just to get the nozzle flowing correctly usually the first lap doesnt stick right so this way it doesnt ruin anything if you have a skirt enabled. if your object is taller id print with a brim. the only thing i do not like about cura is the support is auto generated and you have no control or way to adjust it, but at least all of the prints i did did not need support material also add 10-20 min more to what ever cura estimates for print time i use fusion 360 to build models (see photo for the small robot i designed the frame) its a line follower using a attiny85 micro-controller worked right out of the box, just needed to level the bed. I'd lower the bed before turning the printer on so the hot end doesn't drag and scrape the bed. PROS very accurate printer, I printed a fidget spinner which the center parts are separate and spin (see photo) and there was a 0.4mm gap between the spinner body and the center parts. once printed i didnt even need to break them lose, I've also printed a hing which had a 0.2mm gap between the hinge pin and the central part that hold the pin, after printing it needed a little effort to move and now moves freely. (see photo for the hinge) It's impressive to be able to print a hinge or fidget spinner as "one piece" or at the same time yet each part moves separately. the bed is easy to level easy to load filament heated bed color display hot end has not clogged once on me print quality is very nice the benchy boat printed flawlessly and even created a 8 mm bridge between two pillars to form the window and it doesn't droop down CONS something vibrates while it does the travel moves, which is a bit noisy but does not seem to affect the prints bed takes a bit of time to heat up the cooling fan makes a odd hum but is not noticeable once the the print begins, the fan shroud could use a rubber grommet to stop the vibration the x axis motor gets pretty hot, but having a small fan resting on the z axis arm quickly cools this down and the same probably goes for the driver board and y axis motors but they are inside the case so i can't feel them. the newer version of this printer has a fan built into the case to cool those components and it is possible to add a fan underneath the printer, theres a grill for it but no fan. for longer prints than 2 hr id install a fan underneath just to be safe. this printer can print most of what i need but the bed size can be limiting at times