fume: versace's dreamer

This one came about 'cause Kate mentioned a friend went through an obsessive phase with it, and then reading about it on Fragrantica it seemed like it might be up my alley.

I think it's interesting how skin chemistry seems to affect the order in which notes come out, as the progression never seems to quite match the common one noted in copy, review stats, etc. for me. I can't even remember what this smelled like upon application--all I remember is it felt a litte too retro and femmy for my tastes, but it wasn't mega overpowering so I didn't give it much thought--and then there was a brief dormant period where I didn't notice much of anything as I went about my morning business. Eventually though, perhaps an hour in, it started to warm up and smell good, and there was a fleeting brightness too--the orange I'm guessing--that worked very well with the gradual warm up. Masculine, but nowhere near as intensely so as something like Fahrenheit. The earthy woody tobacco note is there, but it's subtle, not flashy, wafting in the background quietly. There's a kind of...not exactly leather, but similar note that makes up the spine that I really like. And I get that luscious alluring vetiver, yum. And a hint of something cool and fresh and green, pine-y, just a titch to keep things from being overtly heated or bedroom-y. Vanilla was nowhere to be seen for over two hours, so the predominance of it described on Fragrantica confused me, but then when it did arrive (just out of the usual order I guess) with that oh-so-commonly-found-as-to-be-comforting tonka, I was pleasantly surprised by its dry woodiness, the way it's not a kitchen vanilla (I love that it's not that sweet).

To me this really does feel more balanced, more unisex than most of the other stuff I've been trying (granted, I probably lean more toward "masculine" notes in general). It's warm but clean--I can see why so many reviewers mention dryer sheets--with pine needle coolness, dry woody vanilla, bright (but not too sharp!) orange, and hints of old fashioned herbs and flowers (that sage and lavender, yes), plus the woody tobacco and that mysterious early middle part with the vetiver and not-quite-leather. It's never overpowering--I like the sillage once the middle kicks in quite a lot; it's just right to be something you can enjoy but it doesn't scream out to strangers in the room--and the longevity, while not the most impressive of my samples so far (but granted, I've chosen some total marathon runners!), is respectable--I'm sure this could get you through most of a work day. This is a perfume that manages to be signature-scent-viable I think by being just right at being interesting/compelling, a hint of tough, but not TOO obtrusive. It makes me think of a '90s lass clad in white cotton, leather boots or belt, a jean jacket, and one of those lacy or earthy floral print accessories (maybe even fingerless gloves, ha!) or maybe a linen hat with a cotton flower adornment. And big silver hoop earrings, that bit of cold metal detailing. She keeps a pack of Dunhills in her pocket. I sort of see Rayanne from My So-Called Life wearing this.