The greater Sedona metro area (including Uptown Sedona, West Sedona, and Village of Oak Creek) has a permanent resident population of fewer than 20,000 souls, but we welcome about 3.0 million tourists and visitors each and every year. There are a few times in the annual calendar when tourism spikes and peaks, and we’re in the heart of one of those seasons right now, with various Spring Breaks and the rebirth-time religious holidays in close confluence, one to the other.
After nearly six years here, Marcia and I know when and how to steer clear of the hordes that arrive at our peak tourism seasons, adjusting our social, entertainment, shopping, and recreational activities accordingly. That’s actually easier than it might otherwise be due to the influence of the Internet on tourism, because the vast majority of visitors here feel compelled to hike the same small number of destinations, seek out reservations at the same small number of restaurants, and engage in the same small number of social and shopping activities, because Yelp, or Instagram, or TripAdvisor, or any number of other platforms have told them to do so.
Are those Internet-mandated activities the best things that Sedona has to offer? Nope. Not by a long shot, generally, and the popularity of certain destinations is often completely mind-blowing to those of us who actually live here. Though we are also equally often pleased that such baked-in presumptions exist, because they tend to focus on places that we don’t go, and herding the visitors into such densely packed destinations frees up space elsewhere for those less inclined to follow the herd.
Probably the most classic example of this is the Devil’s Bridge hike. When you search for Sedona destinations, you’ll almost certainly come across photos like this one, of a wonderful and magical stone arch, where you can commune with nature and have a glorious, pristine, natural experience, even in your wedding attire, or ballet clothes, or culturally-appropriated Native garb, or hottie influencer designer outfits, or whatever (note that this is not my own photo):

But here’s what you don’t see in those artistically framed and edited photos (this one is also not mine):

To get that “perfect photo,” you will slog through heavy road traffic, you will fight to find a parking spot and probably end up parking along the road far from the trailhead, you will slog up a long trail in huge crowds of people, many of whom will neither be dressed appropriately for the conditions, nor have the stamina (nor water supply) to safely get to the top, and then you will stand in a long line, for a long time, for a quick “perfect photo” opportunity, that will look just like every other “perfect photo” taken thousands of times every day from that same spot.
Which, to be quite frank, is dumb, because Sedona is filled with incredible vistas, magical hikes, beautiful rambles, exceptional flora and fauna, and all sorts of other magnificent attractions. Many of those amazing destinations can be pleasurably enjoyed, in near privacy, all year long, without having to deal with the mobs that the Internet’s algorithms produce at Devil’s Bridge, or Cathedral Rock, or Bell Rock, or Chicken Point, or the Birthing Cave, or Snoopy Rock, or the Subway Cave, or any of the nonsensically-designated “vortex” sites popular with the Woo Industrial Complex.
Being semi-retired and somewhat obsessive about my fitness and exploratory activities, I estimate that I am on the trails around here well over 300 days each year, and that I have hiked over 7,000 miles in the immediate Sedona area since we moved here in 2020. I have been on every mapped/maintained forest service trail in the area, though I now spend the majority of my time on unmapped/unmaintained social trails, or game paths, or bushwhacking, or scrambling rocks with no trails whatsoever. And even at that extreme level of activity in a relatively small geographic area, I still find new things, am awed by new views, discover new routes, and have truly magical moments, alone or with friends, deeply relishing the natural experiences available to us hereabouts.
It occurs to me that it might be helpful to share a bit of local perspective on some of those magical experiences, for those who might want to visit our incredible home community. Marcia has (correctly) noted that I can be a bit of a crank (which we define as a person who has too many strong opinions about too many things)(check and check), so my suggestions and recommendations will likely diverge quite a bit from what other Internet sites will tell you, but I can assure you that you will leave the area with some different stories to tell than most of the other stories you’ll hear about Sedona visits if you engage with these tips, and those stories won’t be heavily focused on bad traffic or long lines or obnoxious behavior or over-priced retail experiences.
Getting Here:
First off: what is “here”? I tend to use “Sedona” as a descriptor for the greater red rocks region around us (formed from the distinctive local Schnebley Hill Formation sandstone), rather than specifically to the City of Sedona, which is divided into the Uptown area (in Coconino County) and the West Sedona area (in Yavapai County). The rocks and wilderness areas here are pretty much right on top of or adjacent to the areas where people actually live (as an example, the border of Coconino National Forest is directly across the street from our house, behind our neighbors’ property there), so unlike with a National or State Park, there’s no gated control point where you can distinguish being inside the attraction from being outside of it.
We actually don’t live in the City of Sedona, but instead reside in The Village of Oak Creek (VOC), an unincorporated Yavapai County community about six miles south of the City’s borders. Many of the signature destinations of the “Sedona” experience are actually in or close to VOC, and the traffic here is far less awful than it gets in the City, so I would personally recommend finding your lodging/base of operations here, if you’re not hell-bent on being able to walk to the tourist shopping areas, which are pretty much like all other tourist shopping areas you’ve experienced in every other tourist-oriented retail hub you’ve visited, anywhere, ever. I would also note that the explosion of short-term rentals has been devastating to the region’s housing stock, making it difficult-to-impossible for many people working to support the tourism industry to actually live here. So I would respectfully encourage you to consider one of the many hotels, motels, resorts, or traditional BnBs (not the “Air” kind) that the region offers. We’d be in an even better place, if more visitors did that.
Unless you’ve got a private plane (or can afford to charter somebody else’s), you’re going to drive into Sedona, and if you’re doing it during heavy tourism season, you’re going to experience some nasty traffic. There are only three roads that lead into the City of Sedona: Highway 179 from I-17 and VOC to the south, Highway 89A up from Cottonwood to the southwest, or Highway 89A down from Flagstaff to the North. And guess what? All three of those roadways eventually meet at a single point, a traffic circle complex known as “The Y,” which is immediately adjacent to the biggest shopping and dining destinations in the area. Gridlock is common there, and unfortunately, there’s really no way to get around it, since there are no other roads to bypass it. This problem is exacerbated by the preponderance of traffic circles in the area; they are simple and effective if people know how to use and drive in them, but I’m routinely amazed by how many people don’t possess that skill, causing backups or accidents by failing to properly navigate into or out of the circles. If I have to go into the City of Sedona from VOC during tourist season (normally a ~15 minute drive), I either go super early in the morning, or I take a 35-mile detour through Page Springs, which ends up being faster and less aggravating than sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic for seven-plus miles.
Since we moved here, the City has implemented a Shuttle Bus service that cycles between two centralized parking areas and a variety of popular tourism sites. On one hand, that certainly seems like a good and viable solution to congestion. But in reality and execution, since there aren’t any designated roads for the shuttles to use beyond those already clogged with private vehicular traffic, the net effect of the buses is that you just end up sitting in traffic with others, rather than in your own car, and as the buses get backed up, you may also find yourself waiting at a trailhead or shopping center for far longer than you might like at the end of an excursion, hoping that when the bus finally arrives, it won’t already be full. Staying in the VOC will eliminate a lot of that aggravation while still giving you access to incredible destinations, so I again do strongly encourage people to consider that.
Hiking in Sedona
As noted above, I spend most of my time off of the “official” forest service trails, but I certainly can’t recommend you do the same on your own if you’ve never been here, or if you’re only here for a brief visit, as it takes time and experience to learn to navigate such routes safely. (I’m always happy to guide hikes, so if you know me or others like me, that’s the best way to have your first off-trail experiences hereabouts). Three other key suggestions/notes for hiking hereabouts:
- Surface conditions can be gnarly, even on well-traveled trails, as our crumbly rocks mean that there are very few routes where you will be walking on groomed or even or level or smooth surfaces. If you’ve never hiked in such rocky-rolly conditions, and you’re looking at trail ratings online, I suggest you slightly bump up the ratings, such that an “easy” trail may feel like a “bit harder than easy” trail, when compared to other similarly rated trails elsewhere. Good footwear is essential, and sneakers or sandals or flip-flops are not a good idea. Hiking poles are highly useful (but learn how to use them correctly, please), especially on skrittly descents, and I remain perpetually bemused by people (usually men) who refuse to use them, for (mumble mumble) reasons, then end up slipping or falling on slopes that a good pole would have made manageable. No shame in a good butt slide to get down a steep descent, either. Whatever works for you, and is safe, is good. Water is also essential, and you’re a fool if you grab a 12-ounce plastic bottle at a convenience store and think that’s going to suffice on a hot, dry day hereabouts.
- The hierarchy of rights-of-way on mixed-use trails around here is horses > hikers > bikers. Many trails, however, are not mixed use, especially in the wilderness areas, so if the signs say no bikes, or no e-bikes, or no horses, then that means no bikes, no e-bikes, and no horses. Don’t be that guy who kills someone (or yourself) by rocketing around like Evil Kneivel on your mountain bike if you’re not supposed to be there, and despite the law of gross tonage, don’t expect hikers to get out of your way if you’re out of control on a descent or a flat, because the hikers have the right of way, and many of them will insist on asserting it. (As a former cyclist myself, I’m a bit more lenient on this issue, as I understand that it’s easier for me to just step aside than it is for a cyclist to have to un-clip or regain momentum after a stop, but I’m an exception in that regard, not the rule).
- Peace, quiet, and serenity are key components of our outdoor experiences around here. So please don’t be that guy who brings a tinny blaring Bluetooth speaker on the trails, because other people will hear you and your noise a long, long way from where you are making it. I’m about the most music-manic person I know, so if I can stand to be without my tunes every day while out on the trails, so can you. Headphones and earbuds are not good alternatives, mind, as you want to hear hikers/bikers/horses behind you, or the sound of falling rocks, or wildlife. Rattlesnakes (which are common here) are good about warning you when you get too close, but if you can’t hear them, their warnings do no good. Chomp!
Here are ten good hikes that I would suggest to visitors, in three tiers of difficulty. They are all on official, mapped, forest service trails, but they are not as congested as some of the more Internet-favored routes, they all feature more-readily-available parking (sometimes free, sometimes paid; get a Red Rock Pass or use your National Parks pass to cover the expense), and they all offer wonderful, memorable views and experiences. Click the link in each trail’s name to get a map image to help you find it, then use the well-marked trail signage or your own GPS to navigate them safely once you arrive at the start of each route.
Easy Hikes:
- Fay Canyon from Fay Canyon Parking: Paid parking, for a short out-and-back that gets you into a very scenic canyon with the least effort possible; side trails to Fay Canyon Arch, or up the left and right canyon forks at trail end are available for those willing to add some unmapped extra credit bits, with some scrambling available for good measure. A solid introductory trail choice for those with young children or those with limited mobility or stamina. Mellow, pretty, easy.
- Woods Canyon from Red Rock Ranger Station: An out-and-back as far as you want to go, up to ~11 miles round trip if you take the trail to its end. Nice shade/forest in its middle/far sections, great picnic/rest/swim sites toward the turnaround point, and some nice side trails to the right as you’re out-bound that are delightful when Dry Beaver Creek is in flow (typically spring snow-melt and summer monsoon seasons).
Moderate Hikes:
- The “Pig Trails” Loop from Broken Arrow Parking: Puts you near the crowded Chapel/Chicken Point area, but from a direction that keeps the traffic volume down. Takes you to a great up-and-over pass north of Twin Buttes/Elephant Rock with incredible views and some fun clambers up and onto a variety of red rock decks.
- Chimney Rock/Thunder Mountain Loop from Thunder Mountain Parking: Puts you into another somewhat-busy area, but from a direction where you won’t have to deal with parking messes or too many people. Keep an eye out for the Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park just below Chimney Rock Pass; there are a variety of side trails leading down to it, and it is beautiful and peaceful indeed. Extra credit: climb Little Sugarloaf via a signed trail for some extra mileage, elevation, and views.
- Turkey Creek Trail from Upper Turkey Creek Parking: You need to go up a moderately-rough dirt road to get to the parking area, but it’s worth it. This is an out-and-back, like Woods Canyon, where you can go as far as you want, then turn back. If you follow the trail to its end, you will be up on House Mountain, our local dormant volcano. There is a major trail-building project in this area right now, so for extra credit, you can peel off onto any of the new routes (well, actually formally-adopted old social trails, for the most part) to get up out of the Turkey Creek Basin.
- Ridge/Sketch/Secret Slickrock Loop from Sunset Park: A lovely loop with a variety of options on how to do it, including some fun side trails, but getting up to the Ridge Saddle south of Airport Mesa, and then down onto the Secret Slickrock area, will give you some of the signature/best views of Cathedral Rock available.
- Canyon of Fools/Mescal Mountain from Canyon of Fools Trailhead: Roadside parking, for a “balloon” route that takes you up a series of high/narrow washes onto the decks surrounding Mescal Mountain. As you come back around, you will encounter the Devil’s Bridge and Birthing Cave parking/traffic, but the folks going up to those attractive nuisances will generally be going a different way, so just push through them and you’ll get back to peaceful times fairly quickly. For extra credit here, go out-and-back on the Long Canyon Trail for as far as you’d like. It’s rich with stunning cliffs walls and soothing forest shade.
Difficult Hikes:
- Sterling Pass/Vultee Arch from Sterling Pass Trailhead: If you really need to see and walk on an arch, and you’re a strong hiker, definitely do this one instead of Devil’s Bridge. There’s very limited roadside parking at the lightly-marked trailhead, so an early arrival is advisable. For extra credit, look for the Vultee plane crash site marker on the rocks above the east side of the arch; the crash site itself is harder to reach, and I wouldn’t advise trying to find it on a first visit without being familiar with the general area. Also, watch out for bears.
- North Wilson Trail to Sedona Vista and Canyon Vista from Encinoso Picnic Area: Paid parking, for the largest vertical climb you can do in the immediate Sedona area, which delivers two of the best vistas in the region, one overlooking Sedona to the south, one overlooking Sterling Pass (you can see Vultee Arch) and Oak Creek Canyon to the north. Both vistas are well worth visiting, if you’ve taken the time to get up top on Wilson. Many people go to the Sedona Vista from the South Wilson Trailhead at Midgley Bridge, but parking is tighter there, and the trail is longer (though less steep) with serious southern exposure, which can make for quite a slog on a hot day. The North trail has more shade and is much prettier.
- Bear Mountain from Bear Mountain Trailhead: Paid parking (though if it’s busy, you may end up parking on the roadside, for free) for an out-and-back route through some incredible panoramas, and one of the best examples of the geology of the area, as you will climb through the various sedimentary beds that define our region. A signature, memorable route, though you might have to grind through the Devil’s Bridge/Birthing Cave/Subway Cave automotive hordes to get there. Early arrival, always advisable.
I keep Flickr albums of many of my more memorable adventures in the area, so if you’d like to look at them for ideas and inspirations on hikes, you can do so here. If something looks interesting to you, shoot me a note via comment or email, and I can give you more details, or even take you out for a local-guided experience. (Unpaid and casual, of course, as I don’t have, nor do I want, a commercial guide’s license, with the related expenses and liabilities). I’m always happy to share the best of what I’ve found hereabouts.
Dining Out in Sedona:
I’m a big believer that an excellent dining-out experience involves three components: quality of food, ambience of surroundings, and competence of service. Failure to deliver even one of those three criteria results in a less-than-stellar experience, always. And I’m very likely to offend people (especially some of our local restaurateurs) in saying this, but Sedona often struggles to meet those three criteria consistently, especially in some of the restaurants that the Internet will tell you are must-eat destinations hereabouts. (I’m also a believer that when Internet-driven hype means I have to work ridiculously hard, weeks or months in advance, to get a reservation some place, I’m almost certain to be disappointed in the results of my efforts). There are a few restaurant groups around here with multiple eateries, and our clear favorite is the Mercer Group, which is well-represented in my recommendations below.
I’d gently suggest that you just temper your expectations about dining out when you come here, having spent much of my life in world-class foodie destinations and cities. This isn’t one of them, though I have had consistently solid and enjoyable experiences at the seven restaurants listed below, and recommend them all without reservation.
Fine Dining:
Mid-Tier Dining:
Casual/Budget Dining:
Arts and Culture in Sedona:
There are a lot of bars and restaurants that have live music hereabouts, but it tends to be of either the “dude with acoustic guitar singing overwrought renditions of overplayed Van Morrison, Bob Marley, and James Taylor cover songs” idiom, or of the “person with a decent voice singing karaoke over canned backing tracks” variety. Having been deeply immersed in amazing music scenes over the decades, neither of these are interesting to me, at all, so I have no recommendations on that front.
I consider the best music-related organization in the region to be Sedona Symphony. (Full disclosure for transparency’s sake: I served in a consulting capacity as their Interim Executive Director last year, and am committed to joining their Board of Trustees in July). Under the artistic direction of Maestro Will White for the past year, programs, guest artists, and performances have been consistently outstanding. The Symphony generally performs only five times each year (four classical concerts, one Pops concert), but if you’re here when they’ve got a concert scheduled, I highly recommend attending it.
I also recommend the Sedona Heritage Museum to help you understand the region’s pioneer, settlement, and development history, which are all quite fascinating. After you’ve learned a bit about how Sedona came to be, and for an extra credit assignment that most people miss, find the Cooks Cedar Glade Cemetery (now in a loosely-industrial area near the road up Airport Mesa) and pay your respects at the graves of T.C. and Sedona Schnebley, the latter of whom is the namesake of the City and region.
Sedona’s pioneer history is, of course, but a small bite of the pie of historic human activity in this area, which was settled in antiquity by various Native peoples, perhaps most notably the Hisat’sinom (also known as the Sinagua), who left behind over a thousand dwelling and art sites hereabouts when they migrated north to the Hopi Highlands around 1425 CE (for reasons mysterious). Most of these sites are difficult to reach, unmapped, and not widely known/advertised, but once you develop a sense of where the Hisat’sinom were active, and where they liked to build, you can find and explore some truly remarkable sites. Keep in mind, of course, that these sites are often considered sacred spaces by the Native peoples still living in the area, and visit them as you would a fine cathedral in Europe, with a sense of both humility and respect. It’s bad form to eat, drink, be loud, or otherwise disruptive in such sites, and never, ever touch any rock art, nor carve into nor mark anything man-made or natural, nor pocket anything you find at such sites. Footprints are all you should leave, photos and memories are all you should take.
There are two driving-required day-trips that I’d also recommend, which allow you to visit the relatively small number of preserved/protected/interpreted archaeological sites hereabouts; you could do both in a day, if you wanted to, but I will cluster them into two groups based on relative proximity:
Given the amazing volume and quality of legitimate Native American history in the area, I get routinely annoyed by a lot of the fake/appropriated stories told about sites here, to give them some kind of cool extra cache by playing the Native card when it’s not valid. No, the local Native women did not have to climb up into the Birthing Cave when it was time for them to deliver. No, the Seven Sacred Pools were not a holy site for the Native people here. And no, the supposedly magical “vortex” sites were not sacred to the Native people either. That’s probably the most offensive and stupid of the cultural appropriations hereabouts.
The whole “vortex” concept dates from the 1980s, during the heyday of the New Age movement. A psychic and writer named Page Bryant came (briefly) to Sedona from Florida in 1979, after which she claimed that she was visited by a spirit called Albion, who told her where these sacred energy spots could be found. Bryant did some talks and tours about her concepts, which then later had the fake Native influence elements grafted onto them, and which the Sedona Chamber of Commerce and government thought was a worthy tourism-revenue generating ploy, so the concept was adopted and codified and is still sold, snake oil style, to this day. Bryant later relocated to Asheville, North Carolina, where (whaddyaknow!) she also “discovered” vortexes, with Albion’s guidance. More about all of that in her 2017 obituary, here.
I post that not to be mean/cruel to her, but just as a defense from those who inevitably lecture me about my lack of open-mindedness on things other-wordly, when I roll my eyes when people ask me how to get to a vortex site, and then also are prone to further lecture me on their “factual,” “research” based investigations in such matters. Which, as we all know, means they asked an AI a question, or did a Google search, so now they are experts. Yes, some people will certainly claim that they can feel magical or metaphysical forces when they visit a vortex (with hordes of other people), but I’m perfectly confident in arguing that you can experience such feelings just about anywhere in the majestic rocks around Sedona, even more so when you can do it without a mob crowding the site. You don’t need to honor the Woo Industrial Complex by going where it tells you to go to get a taste of Sedona Magic. The whole place is special. The vortexes are just tourist nonsense, anchored in a charlatan’s delusions.
And yes, I know that the plural of “vortex” is “vortices,” but those into these sites tend to use the grammatically incorrect plural form, which is also annoying to me, as a language guy.
Shopping in Sedona:
The two biggest shopping areas in greater Sedona are near each other: the Uptown Tourism Strip, and the Tlaquepaque Outdoor Arts Village. The Uptown area has the usual sorts of shops common to most any tourism destination, while Tlaquepaque offers some higher quality galleries and shops in the actual mall complex, supplemented by a few additional galleries and shops southward along Highway 179 up to the nearby Hillside Shopping Complex. Expect crowds, parking difficulties, lines, and higher prices at these destinations, should you wish to visit them during peak tourism seasons.
I don’t often shop at (or even visit) either of those destinations accordingly, but I do have some favorite places that I can recommend elsewhere:
- Kachina House: An outstanding outlet for historic and contemporary Native American art, the best in the region, easily.
- Village Gallery: An artists’ cooperative located in VOC, near our house. The art and artists rotate fairly regularly, so there’s almost always something new and interesting when I visit.
- Canyon Outfitters: We have a variety of outdoor/hiking/camping/biking stores in the area, but this one is easily the best of the bunch.
- Son-Silver-West Galleries: When we moved here, we could never remember the name of this place, so we still refer to it as “The Tchotchke Shop.” It’s essentially a tourist shopping destination, but it’s a big, multi-building complex with some fun bric-and-brac and art to be had, and it’s between City of Sedona and VOC, so you can get in and out a bit easier than you can the Uptown and Tlaquepaque areas, if you really need some little retail remembrances of your time here.
Golfing in Sedona:
What Hiking in Sedona is for me, Golfing in Sedona is for Marcia: she’s out on the links playing 18 holes three or four times a week, happily obsessing about the recreational activity she most enjoys. There are three 18-hole courses in the area: Sedona Golf Resort, a public course adjacent to the Hilton Hotel on the south side of VOC; Oakcreek Country Club (OCC), a semi-public course in the heart of VOC (its signature 13th hole is just around the corner from our house)(if you consider climbing over some rocks to be “just around the corner,” as I do); and the private Club at Seven Canyons out west of Sedona, near Boynton and Long Canyons.
Marcia has played all three courses, but OCC is her home course; she’s been a member since we moved here, and was the President of the Club’s Women’s Golf League for a couple of years. There’s no doubt in her mind that OCC is the finest course in the area, with its challenging design, spectacular views, mature trees, and pleasant water features. It is the region’s oldest championship course, co-designed by the legendary Robert Trent Jones, Sr. and Robert Trent Jones, Jr. Lest you think Marcia might be biased as a member, I’ll point out that OCC was named the Fourth Best Public Course in the United States by USA Today this year; click here to learn more about that. So if you’re a golfer, we feel perfectly comfortable advising you to play OCC when you visit. We’ve never heard anybody complain about doing so.
Conclusion:
So those are my thoughts and counsel about things to do in a place that doesn’t lack for them, and that also doesn’t lack for people wanting to be here, doing other things, most of the time. Hopefully this is useful to someone, and if not, it’s still useful to me to jot down the things I think about, every now and again, regarding the place where I’ve made my (hopefully) forever home. The bottom line is that I love it here, dearly, as much as I’ve ever loved anyplace where I’ve spent comparable time. I also deeply love sharing my experiences here, both online, and in person, when people are able to visit the area, or visit us. I like to think that if you do come here, and take some experienced local advice to heart over what some Instagram Travel Influencer or commercial tour company wants to sell tell you, you will optimize your chances of having your own magical time here, rather than spending most of your trip being frustrated by traffic, crowds, lines, and noise. Happy travels, be safe, and maybe I’ll see you out there on the trails!

Happy after the hard work of making it to the Wilson Mountain summit. But I’m almost always happy and doing hard work, wherever I go hereabouts!
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